maddog-RCU

My Feedback: (23)

Still watching here also Barry, were you black balled here? I don't know why your thread seems fine with me.

guille2006

Still here too... waiting to see the "pink" P-40.... he he he

NCIS

Their ALIVE!!! Nice to see some posts. Dan yes thank you, LDM definitely the sliding canopy. As for PINK I decided it wouldn't work because that was a two seater from what I've been told. I'm thinking this color scheme. Also the fuse has graduated to my shop/office with much better lighting and the table is higher. I made some supports out of 1.5" insulation board and after the glue dried enough I dremeled out the hole for the large air tank. I think it is a good location. I can get to the air line that hooks up to it and need be I can remove it for replacement. Plus now when I'm sitting at my desk I can look at it. One of the pictures is from my desk chair.

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

Still here as well. I subscribed as soon as you started and look in on your progress daily. You've actually peaked my interest in this P40 and if my next several builds weren't already planned, I'd probably be building this one as well. Keep up the great work, we're still here.

NCIS

Nice to see some builders coming out of the shadows. I have decided to extend the tail and make a scale offset rudder which I think was on the D and E models. Anyway if someone has anymore info than that let me know!

Thanks,

Barry

PS: TIME FOR LUNCH!!!

P-40 DRIVER

The Pink 40 is an extrapolation of the paint job given to the P-40 F models used for Operation Torch in North Africa. The color was desert pink over Azure Blue or Grey depending on if the plane was originally a British or US ordered aircraft. Sue Parishes airplane is a P-40 N model and is a whole different shade of pink then what was on the original aircraft. It may have the area behind the pilots seat set up with a jump seat. This does not alter the outside of the aircraft. You are building a D/E model P-40 which would have never used that paint scheme to begin with. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you mean extending the tail. Later model P-40's lenthened the fuselage starting with P-40F for more effective rudder. Many of the these models came in short and long fuselages as well. P-40's are very confusing, so some research will be required to get it right, or you will have somebody like me rolling my eyes. I will also say that the reason you may not have been getting alot of feedback is that you building a 30 year old design with a completely standard engine per plan so not much new here.

damagedgoodes

Barry,
I too check in on your thread on a daily basis. I watch because I've never built a Ziroli aircraft before and would love to soon, so all your pic's are extremely informative to people who are isolated and can't go look at other peoples projects just around the corner so to speak. "I will also say that the reason you may not have been getting alot of feedback is that you building a 30 year old design with a completely standard engine per plan so not much new here." WOW what a line. Well it's new to me and I for one appreciate sites and threads like this.

NCIS

You both are right I guess. I never built a P-40 before so it's new to me. I have always built Corsairs and know all the model numbers. The P-40 doesn't have a huge amount of research information that I have found. Here is a picture of the tail extension I'm talking about. This is another builders plane but it has the extended fuse and offset rudder LE. P-40 DRIVER is this correct and if so what model is it?

Barry

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

Says the guy 'assembling' a Vietnamese P40 ARF...... seriously? Try not to be so snotty toward others....I'm sure your ARF is perfectly scale with all of your modifications [&:]

P-40 DRIVER

Well I guess that put me in my place. That VQ isnt even close, I just bought as a knock around plane, but it really annoys me every time I look at it. I usually build, but I just had another child so my time is limited. NCIS, that will make the rudder much more scale but will have no effect on the model P-40 your building.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Here's an excellent book that runs down the differences in version and when/how they happened, as well as providing some nice color profiles. Good reference material. There were a lot of different goings on with the P40, probably like any refinements on any bird of guns, maneuverability reasons, bigger/different engines, etc.. The pink one at Kalamazoo is kind of a different setup than the originals in a few different regards if I recall correctly...the cockpit and jump seat, the tail, and also the canopy and framing being different. My pal just finished a couple of the long tail versions, two different M's and an F (which I think is really cool cuz of the interesting scoop shape and lack of an upper intake above the spinner).

http://www.amazon.com/Curtiss-P-40-1.../dp/2913903479

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Barry great job!!! .
I think it use to be on warbirds.com and I think the guys name was Chuck McLaughen but he had documened his build of this plane and he made the canopy slide with an air piston (a simple longer version sold by precision )
Everything that moved the canopy was behind the pilots seat in the fuse cavaty
Also dont know if you have seen these yet but I just bought one and there excellant
www.bestpilots.typed.com

NCIS

I am building all new tail feathers as stated earlier but while moving the fuse to have more room the cradle slipped and the fuse was only sitting on a former. I heard a crack and the fuse fell into the cradle. It broke former F-11 in half at a stringer. No body else has had this happen right? I made up a couple pieces of ply with the grain going opposite the break and glued them with tight clamps to both sides like a sandwich. MORE TAIL WEIGHT![:@] It's ok now but it really can p..s a guy off when he crashes before the engine is even in the plane. Just part of building I guess. If there isn't a glitch she will crash on Maiden. I cut out the canopy and will work on the rails while I'm building the new tail feathers. My problem now is I have been so busy making rails for someone else that when I'm ready to put some in mine I don't have any. Kind of like a mechanic that drives a junk car because he never has time to fix his own.

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

G-Pete

Slowly it looks like an airplane Barry.

Any news what power plant you plan to use?

Was an easy fix, happens to the best - you turn around and the airframe disappeared from the table

P-40 DRIVER

The P-40 is probably the only warbird that comes out nose heavy so I would not worry about it. Crashed and burned in the shop a few times myself.

cold_reboot

My Feedback: (20)

Dropping wings before sheeting and breaking ribs is par for the course. Last time I did it the wing was over the table and probably fell all of 5 inches (I was turning it around to work on the leading edge) broke a few glue joints (leading edge was mostly tacked at that point) and cracked some ribs. "Cursing like a sailor" always seems to follow soon after.

On the plus side my SeeTemp should be here today so I can start cutting templates for my Anderson TA152

NCIS

I'm staying with the G-62 that Horizon put a new crank in unless I can sell it. If I can I'd like a bigger engine. Maybe a 3W-80. Glues dry and everything is back to where it was before the BOO BOO!

Barry

NCIS

I've been building new tail feathers and today I received my Seirra TW retract so tomorrow I'll start to install it. It seems tiny compared to what I expected. I'm going to put servos in each side of the stab instead of long pushrods so I can have more control over the set-up. I haven't decided what set-up to use for the rudder but I don't want a long pushrod. I'm not happy with the position that I could put the rudder servo in the fin so I am thinking of putting the servo in the rudder and having a small control horn under the stab. This is opposite what everyone has done in the past but there isn't any reason it shouldn't work.

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

P-40 DRIVER

Like the tailwheel unit, alot more scale then the Robart unit. I would worry about flutter adding all that weight to the rudder.

NCIS

I've already decided I didn't like the rudder servo idea so The set-up is still undecided. I think Darrell sent me a P-47 retract instead of the P-40 retract. Here are three pictures. The first one is the correct one on his website and the second one is the one I got. The third one is the one I received and looks like a beefer one than the one pictured on his site so he must of improved it. What do you guy's think?

Barry

P-40 DRIVER

The one on the pink foam is quite scale, and is the best of the three. Thats the one you got, right?[link]http://www.p40warhawk.com/Models/Technical/P-40E%20tailwheel.jpg[/link]

NCIS

Yes and today I worked on making it work in the plane that was designed for the Robart retract. Here it is not yet epoxied or bolted in. I will double check everything tomorrow and finish the install. The wheel is just being used for measurements so I know it is the right depth for gear doors. It's 2.25 and I will probably use the recommended 2" scale wheel. That will give me an 1/8" clearence which will still make the tail sit up where it's supposed to be. The mains are also longer than the Robarts so the whole plane will sit higher and not look like it's dragging on the ground. I emailed Darrell and he returned my email telling me that this is the correct TW retract that is lighter and very strong. How does it look to you?

Barry

P-40 DRIVER

Because the hole tailwheel asm; on the real one, pivoted as seen in that picture I posted. I think if you put it in as you have it now, it may look as if the strut is over inflated. You might want to put just a little bit of an angle on it. [link]http://www.aviation-history.com/curtiss/p40f-1a.jpg[/link]

glattica

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TakingFlight96

Looking good. Keep up the good work

-Ally