DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

The new scale arrived today. I am surprised how close the two stab designs are in weight. I think I'll stick with Roy's design though. The scale even came with nice batteries, not the cheesy expired batteries you'd expect.

tpc3

were did you get that nice looking tail wheel?

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

The tailwheel is from Sierra Giant Scale. It's part number is SFTF-2. Here is the link: [link=http://www.sierragiant.com/prod07.html]Sierra Giant Scale Hawker Hurricane Tailwheel Fork[/link]
You need to scroll down toward the bottom of the page. Darrell Tenney is a great guy to do business with and his products are top of the line. I bought that particular one from another member here. The one I ordered direct from Darrell, along with the mains, should be here any day now. Something I had not though of before regarding the different manufacturers of retracts Darrell included the door mounts in his pricing.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Since I am trying to save weight behind the CG I have been doing some strategic substitution of balsa for spruce stringers. I was curious as to how much weight it will save. I know that the further back the weight savings is, the more dramatic it will be, but I don't know how to figure it out over a given three foot length of constantly changing percentages. So I will be content to weigh a one foot section of balsa and a one foot section of spruce. The balsa weighed one gram and the spruce weighed 3 grams. I started out with ten inches of balsa but the scale would not register it! Anyway, given that there are 56 stringers, and about three feet of them extend from the back of the cockpit to the tail (about three feet), if my math is correct that is 168 feet of stringer behind the cg. I'm probably substituting two thirds of the stringers to balsa, so that should save me 2 grams per foot, at 112 feet, totalling 224 grams. That's over half a pound behind the CG! I'm thinking so long as the substitution does not significantly reduce strength (and it seems pretty stout right now) that will help considerably with keeping the overall weight down.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I was working on my stab today and decided to set up the second one. While transferring measurements I realized I'd built the first one about .25 inch off center. I can't imagine how that happened! I decided to build two new ones, and while I was building them I thought I should post some build pix since this is my firsts vertical build. First I carefully measured the trailing edge centerline front and back, and marked all the rib locations carefully. I made new ribs where I needed to, and carefully marked the centerlines on them. I'd decided to glue the two center ribs in first and then the outermost ribs. While I was doing this it occurred to me that if I stretched a wire across all the ribs, I would have a center line to build to for the tip an area that caused me problems the first two times. Here are the pix. I think it will work very nicely.

qldviking

Hi I had a good look at the plans, i see no reason as such for all spruce stringers either, and I will do roughly the same replace a good chunk of the stringers with straight grained balsa.
looking at the tail feathers, I think I will build them in my wing jig, just align all the ribs and drill them to fit my jig. I did that with the DC3 I built not long ago and they all worked out straight and true. I also predrilled the spars in pairs for the robarts hinges before assemble so they all fitted perfectly too, and after framing fitted the hinge blocks and drilled them. worked out well. I also predrill the torque rods in the elevators after making the rod system up, saved a lot of messin round afterwards.
I have been spending a bit of time studying the plans, and following this thread, and have pages of notes for when I eventually get some decent balsa to build with, the last batch I recieved was only fit for kindling and got sent back [:'(][:@]
I test run the ST-6000 today, it hadnt been run for a while, it spun a 24 x 8 bolly wood prop at 6170 on straight methanol/15%oil mix, was happy with that [8D] should fly the hurricane nicely, just gotta figure out the exhaust system now, toying with the idea of making up a system to use both sides . shouldnt be too hard to do.

qldviking

a couple pics of the motor in question with its current exhaust. I might also rework the ducting for cooling air too, I will have more room in the hurricane to work with. Thats the one drawback with the ST-6000, the rear cylinder needs to have a good supply of cooling air ducted to it or it will spit out plugs bigtime, other than that its been a great motor

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Good ideas there! I've never used a wing jig, but you're right, the stab would lend itself well to that kind of build. Good too to pre-drill the spars in pairs. These are new spars and I have my elevators that I"ll use from the last attempt- they were drilled to match the first stab, so now I'll have to carefully drill the holes in the first stab spar to match them. On the other one I'll do as you suggest and drill them as a set. Have to remember to offset the stab spar by the rib thickness though!
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Got both stabs basic framed, now for sub spars and tips. Much easier the third time around!
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Gear arrived today! I've attached some pictures of the Sierra gear, with some of the Shindin to compare it too. Both nice. I dont' know how Darrell got that strut to rotate, but rotate it does and it is too cool! It's supposed to come with door collars but they were inadvertantly left off. I've already contacted Darrell and I'm sure he'll take care of it. Anyway, gaze away!
Sierra gear first, then the Shindin, then a comparison with Sierra on top and Shindin below.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry for a quick hi-jack DaddySam. Just need a quick answer guys. I stumbled across a Vailly 90" sea fury kit at a swap meet yesterday. I'm going back today to take a closer look. How does the V sea fury fly? Not concerned with building issues yet. RCU research shows some pretty positive replys. Might be able to get it for $100. Plans, cowl, canopy, and spinner come to about $200. Dont know if it covers anything else but the wood and foam center section.
Edwin

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Edwin, no need to apologize for the hijack! I look at as many RV build threads as I can to learn how to build from Roy's plans. That being said, does Roy use a foam center section ? The Sea Fury is an awesome plane!
Sam

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

It says Roy Vaillencourt Sea Fury on the box (really old and beat up). The wing center section is sheeted foam and outer panels built up. I'm waiting for the guy to get back with me on any other parts he might have.
Edwin

scalenutz

My Feedback: (6)

Sam, I also had a few issues with Roys method of building but like you I figured it out, (I got a photo pack) One suggestion, once you have all the ribs standing up on the centerline use a straight edge and draw a line from the center ribs to the tip ribs along the aft spar. You will find this helps tremendously when you plane and shape the aft spar, once done you get a beautiful shape on the stab and it all makes sense when you put on the skin sheeting (lots of ammonia) you get a very strong, compound curved stab....Then build your elevators the same way on the other side of the stab spar and blend it all together. Gears look great!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Getting the stabs and elevators moving along. I did trace the outline from center to tip both front and back and it helped tremendously while planing the shape. I've got to add the scale sheeting on the tips, add the capstrips and the strip on the rear spar and they'll be basically done. I'm figiting with the hinges now. I had a question on another forum about the weights of the landing gear, so in case anybody is interested, the Shindin is 27.16 oz per pair, and the Sierra is 27.12 oz per pair. the Sierra tail fork is 2.54 oz.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Here are some pix showing the elevator tip in its original configuration, then the airfoiled config, and a shot of the BT plan.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

a bit more progress on the stab. 3 oz even.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

A question for those that have built this plane or one similar: Roy's design for the tailhweel mounting block shows an assembly that appears to be butt-glued to the former. I would think this would be a weak spot. I'm going to build the box assembly with some "jig tabs" that will fit into slots I'll cut into the former, for more strength. Anybody see any problems with this?
Thanks
Sam

scalenutz

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Sam, I built as shown and then reinforced the sides with 1/4 stock. let me know if you want a picture

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Yes, pictures please. I'll post some of my changes in a few minutes.
Sam

scalenutz

My Feedback: (6)

Here you go, I used 1/4 stock inside and the outside.

scalenutz

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I have the wing ribs ready, I just need to sit down and make a list of the wood I will need to build the wings........

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Here are my "jig and tab" tailwheel mount mods. Nice work on cutting your ribs! I have been "cheating" by using a short kit and full wood kit, and when I need to make a peice for the short kit, I use the other kit peice as a pattern.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

After a night of curing, here is what the finished tail wheel mount blocks look like:

scalenutz

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Sam, I like your "mod" I am working on a scale tail wheel to fit my Hurri, I'm not the machinist but have a good friend who is and we are working on a working oleo and fork, I will keep you posted on my progress. I made the ribs out of formica as a template and then it was easy to sand to shape. I was lucky to find a trapplet book on the Hurri which has lots of details such as tail wheels and the cockpit. Your builds look great, have you had any thoughts on the cockpit? I haven't found any manufactured cockpit kits yet, keep the posts coming.