dvs1

Hey guys, I dont have very many recources on the matter. I was wondering if anyone could post me some decent 3 view pics of a JU-87B Stuka.
I am getting close to doing my panel lines and rivots on some of my parts and need to have some good references.

Thanks,
Curt

TomCrump

After searching the net, and checking printed resources, I never found good 3 views, showing rivet detail, for the JU-87B.

I suggest that you locate a good plastic model, that has these details, and work from it.

G-Pete

Here an teaser [link=http://www.rlm.at/cont/gal17_e.htm]click here for a nice model[/link]

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

Thats cheating G-Pete!

STUKA BARRY

The best model is the Ultimate Soldier series JU87B-1 its hard to find and may be alittle pricy, but its an exact model with sliding canopy, all the bombs, complete cockpit with pilots. Your other best source is Squadron Signals publication of the Stuka. With these two resources, you'll be TopGun ready.

dvs1

Thats not even fair G-Pete. I want to do mine in an eastern front winter camo and that one looks sooooo good.

Thanks Tom and Barry for the advice I'll look into that for sure.

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

I disagree, while the Squadron books are OK, the Kangero books are far better and contain a lot more photos and line drawings too.

There are a total of four books in the Stuka series. All contain fantastic information.

dvs1

Well heres my progress so far. I just need to finish my repair to the Right wing panel and the wing will be ready to finish glassing. Then back to the fuse. Putting the plane together really puts things into perspective. I would say I have decent size spare bedrooms and this thing takes up most of it. I really hope to get this done by spring. This is my first large build and I have to say it is taking me longer than I thought!

TomCrump

I did mine in Eastern Front camo, too.

G-Pete

You mean Kagero - right?

I just buy both of them.

G-Pete

Take your time! When you rush you make only mistakes, 3 weeks earlier or later makes no difference in you live, but these weeks can make a big difference in mechanical and appearance on your Stuka. Good luck and post pictures!
(SturzKampfBomber)

Btw: Sturzkampfbomber means not like most english books translate dive bomber. The word Sturz means fall - these guys did literary fall out of the sky.

Stuerzen in ein Schwert- Falling into the sword

Sturz aus dem Fenster- Fall out the window

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

3 views for a stuka? i thought the only view that counted was from astern and below? target and all.

Joe

STUKA BARRY

Sometimes I fell like I've Sturz aus dem Fenster.

dvs1

Tom, thanks for the pics. Honestly I came across your build a little over a year ago, and after seeing your finished product that is what made me
decide to build my stuka. I absolutely love yours. I hope to try to achieve the level of detail you have accomplished. After looking over many finished
Ziroli stukas I decided on the winter camo. To me it looks the best and I dont see as many of them.

dvs1

Ok guys heres a question for you. I need to build ailerons and flaps now. What I want to do is glue a sleeve in the control surface and then run my wire through so There is less friction. My question is what should I use for this. I had the idea of pushrods and tubes but they have way too much slop in them to use like want to. Any ideas?

ARUP

How is the origional design accomplished? Duplicate that. I use Micarta for many different apps. If you sand the smooth finish and rough it up it hold CA and epoxy well. It is hard enough to drill very accurate holes for hinging. Here are pics of my Yokosuka D4Y Judy aileron cranks using Micarta as the 'slider' box and Fowlr flap sliders and horns/ cranks. I have also used it in this bird for dive brake hinges. Hope this helps. The Stuka is so ugly it's neat!

TomCrump

For the hinges you can use brass tube, cut in 1" sections. Run music wire the length of the surface, through the sections of brass tubing..

Most 3 views show tapered ailerons. This is incorrect.

Have fun building your model. Be careful not to over accentuate the details.

Thanks for the compliments !

STUKA BARRY

You are correct, but Nicky designed the Stuka (as well as the rest of his warbird designs) to fly well. the tapered ailerons prevent flutter, not that the Stuka is capable of mach 2, but this is a problem that he has eliminated into the design. Ofcourse the whole flight control under the wing thing, was designed by Junkers.

dvs1

I've always wondered why the control surfaces were designed under the wing instead of in the wing. Why is that? What would you gain by doing this on a dive bomber?

G-Pete

Here is a hunch, just guessing may they used the ailerons as flaps (Flapperons).
Interesting subject, needs to be researched!

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

My guess would be that both the Ju-52 and Ju-87 had the underslung ailerons because as they aproach a stall the air breaks away from the top of the wing but the air under the wing is still laminar flow. so theoreticaly aileron responce on a wing overloaded and close to stall would be better allowing for overloading on takeoff.

I can't help but wonder if the reduction of drag of a normal wing would have increased top speed.

Joe

dvs1

Well anything added in addition to the airframe should cause some drag. So I would think if the Stuka had a normal wing design of the time it would have a faster top speed.
I doubt it would be much though. Perhaps maybe 10 or 15 MPH difference. That is just my thoughts. Curious though because according to information on the Stuka it was cutting edge at the time it was designed. Around the same time period as the BF-109 so again it is strange to me that they designed underslung sufaces instead of blended like the 109. Perhaps like you said maybe it helped for a loaded takeoff. I personally like them on the Stuka just because it sets the plane apart from others and is strikingly different. I still would like to know the exact reason why they did this though.

ARUP

You might go to rcscalebuilder.com and look at some of the Ziroli threads there, too. Good luck with your Stuka- it's on my build list! Tailwinds, ARUP

dvs1

More progress. I have the outer wing panels now glassed and primed. I just need to finish running and soldering my wires in the center section and
then I can finish sheeting and glass it. Still trying to find an acceptable 3 view. I really dont want to buy a plastic model for reference but looks like i may
have to.



Tom,
I like your idea best for doing my hinges. So im going to run with that.


Question, how did you guys do your rudder-tailwheel? Did you run 2 separate servos or did you run 1 servo and connect the 2? I was thinking of running 2 servos
with pull-pull cables, and 2 servos for the elevator. So including the wing I have a separate servo for each control surface. Maybe a bit overkill, what are your thoughts?

TomCrump

My tail wheel is operated by the rudder servo, but on a separate nyrod. Otherwise, the rest of the controlled surfaces have separate servos.