ESM 82" Hawker Hurricane
06-23-2014, 03:37 PM
#301
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Well it flies.....at 19 pounds the DLE35R is the ticket. Everything said in this thread seems about right...take off is great, cruise at 1/2 throttle, climb hard at full throttle; I haven't tried the flaps yet because landings aren't too bad with them up. BUT, 19 pound plane on rough grass field leads to trouble.
The ESM gear just sucks - can't figure the logic of designing a 19 pound plane and putting aluminium axles on the gear...
The up and down is perfect, but the struts and axles are way too soft...bummer.
Some of you mentioning Sierra gear and I have a set for the Vailly whenever I get it built - aren't the legs too long for this smaller Hurri??
The ESM gear just sucks - can't figure the logic of designing a 19 pound plane and putting aluminium axles on the gear...
The up and down is perfect, but the struts and axles are way too soft...bummer.Some of you mentioning Sierra gear and I have a set for the Vailly whenever I get it built - aren't the legs too long for this smaller Hurri??
06-23-2014, 04:53 PM
#302
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Good work getting it in the air Sandy, looks good and thanks for the pics!
Bugger about the ESM struts as I also have them and think my build may push over 19 pounds
My build is still coming along slowly by about 8 hours a week
I've just set the DLE35RA up on a stand to run it in this weekend. I found a guy online who's custom made an alloy spinner for it and he's posting it in a few days. I'm putting a Xoar 3 blade 18x8 WW2 prop on it.
My mods to date are:
- made a stronger tail wheel strut than the one provided
- made a sliding canopy
- made a battery/fueling/rx hatch with a lever that replicates the 'bead' left on the full scale Mk1A after the cockpit HUD was installed
- removed the louvres
- made the elevator stabs so they can be removed if necessary
Still so much to do...
Bugger about the ESM struts as I also have them and think my build may push over 19 pounds
My build is still coming along slowly by about 8 hours a week
I've just set the DLE35RA up on a stand to run it in this weekend. I found a guy online who's custom made an alloy spinner for it and he's posting it in a few days. I'm putting a Xoar 3 blade 18x8 WW2 prop on it.
My mods to date are:
- made a stronger tail wheel strut than the one provided
- made a sliding canopy
- made a battery/fueling/rx hatch with a lever that replicates the 'bead' left on the full scale Mk1A after the cockpit HUD was installed
- removed the louvres
- made the elevator stabs so they can be removed if necessary
Still so much to do...
08-24-2014, 05:31 PM
#306
Three straight days of rain in later August, time to pull the Hurri out of the box and get to work, my target completion is 2015 the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Britain, so this will be a leisurely assembly and a chance to keep this thread going.
.
A buddy picked up the Robert Standford Tuck book at OSH, "Fly for Your Life" he lent it to me and it's a very good read.
I mounted the DLE 35, cowl is cut, 60mm engine standoff from Hobby King were cut down to 52mm. I also add a length of 3/8 thick balsa to the rudder post for additional hinge backing and added a piece of 1/4" ply where the front wing dowels holes will be drilled.
I picked up a pair of mint Sierra undercarriage off RCU a couple of month ago and they are great.
Tally-ho!
A 8 minute clip with Robert Stanford Tuck at http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxMJ2mX9UWo
.
A buddy picked up the Robert Standford Tuck book at OSH, "Fly for Your Life" he lent it to me and it's a very good read.
I mounted the DLE 35, cowl is cut, 60mm engine standoff from Hobby King were cut down to 52mm. I also add a length of 3/8 thick balsa to the rudder post for additional hinge backing and added a piece of 1/4" ply where the front wing dowels holes will be drilled.
I picked up a pair of mint Sierra undercarriage off RCU a couple of month ago and they are great.
Tally-ho!
A 8 minute clip with Robert Stanford Tuck at http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxMJ2mX9UWo
Last edited by kenair; 08-24-2014 at 05:36 PM.
08-25-2014, 08:15 AM
#307
Join Date: Aug 2004
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way to go there kenair....got mine in the air in the spring, flies great but i did have trouble landing it - couldn't convince myself it slows down as much as it does. Bit of a suggestion, I cut out the inlays in the cowl where the exhaust go, then opened the end of the pipes - don't know how much hot air they breath, but every bit helps. I didn't cut the stand offs because I didn't think there was enough space for the rear exhaust; likely is tho. Give lots of pics..and good luck
Sandy
Sandy
08-25-2014, 03:51 PM
#308
way to go there kenair....got mine in the air in the spring, flies great but i did have trouble landing it - couldn't convince myself it slows down as much as it does. Bit of a suggestion, I cut out the inlays in the cowl where the exhaust go, then opened the end of the pipes - don't know how much hot air they breath, but every bit helps. I didn't cut the stand offs because I didn't think there was enough space for the rear exhaust; likely is tho. Give lots of pics..and good luck
Sandy
Sandy
08-26-2014, 04:12 AM
#309
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A good friend of mine, of more than a little machining ability, made me a new back plate that nicely fills the gap..... but you can do the same thing with 1/4 inch balsa - cut a center hole with a forstner bit, glue it on, then spin the back plate on a drill and sand it to shape.....
Last edited by Sandy69; 08-26-2014 at 03:17 PM.
11-17-2014, 12:08 AM
#311
Here is some pictures of mine during a warbirdweekend here in Norway. Extremely pitch at high speed even with a kilo lead upfront. The wingfoil is almost 10 cm thick and that probably causes this inflight specialities. At half throttle it is quite nice.
11-17-2014, 02:55 AM
#312
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11-17-2014, 08:06 AM
#313
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I found the same thing - full throttle and it climbed like a sonofab*tch, half throttle and it cruised super....
11-17-2014, 10:14 PM
#318
I`ve tried 2-5 degrees downthrust but not help so that is the reason for thick wingprofile theory....
The propeller is a Master Airscrew 15x8 or Graupner 15x8. Have been using both
The propeller is a Master Airscrew 15x8 or Graupner 15x8. Have been using both
11-18-2014, 10:54 AM
#321
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Thanks for the prop info guys.
For the run-in on the DLE35RA I used mineral oil and put it on a stand using a two blade 19x10 prop. I was getting 6,500 rpm and after six litres I put my Xoar 18x8 prop on I got 7,000 rpm; so now I'm wondering it it'll make any difference when I put synthetic oil through it, as the motor should be pulling 8,500 rpm?
For the run-in on the DLE35RA I used mineral oil and put it on a stand using a two blade 19x10 prop. I was getting 6,500 rpm and after six litres I put my Xoar 18x8 prop on I got 7,000 rpm; so now I'm wondering it it'll make any difference when I put synthetic oil through it, as the motor should be pulling 8,500 rpm?
11-20-2014, 04:21 PM
#323
This is just my opinion but I don't think your engine is broken in yet. DLE makes the following statement in their manual:
"Always use high-quality oil intended for 2-stroke (2-cycle) engines. It’s a good idea to use a petroleum-based 2-cycle motor oil like Lawn Boy All Season - Ashless oil for the break-in period."
So I don't understand the logic of using mineral oil for break-in, the ring probably has not seated as yet. Also for break in your prop is too large. Go with the 18 x 8 so it doesn't load down your engine. DLE shows an rpm range of 1600 to 8500. They don't tell you on what prop or fuel/oil mix. Most manufacturers give overly optimistic performance numbers or numbers obtained on a mini prop. See what numbers you get after you've run 8-10 gallons of fuel through it.
Cheers,
"Always use high-quality oil intended for 2-stroke (2-cycle) engines. It’s a good idea to use a petroleum-based 2-cycle motor oil like Lawn Boy All Season - Ashless oil for the break-in period."
So I don't understand the logic of using mineral oil for break-in, the ring probably has not seated as yet. Also for break in your prop is too large. Go with the 18 x 8 so it doesn't load down your engine. DLE shows an rpm range of 1600 to 8500. They don't tell you on what prop or fuel/oil mix. Most manufacturers give overly optimistic performance numbers or numbers obtained on a mini prop. See what numbers you get after you've run 8-10 gallons of fuel through it.
Cheers,
11-20-2014, 05:13 PM
#324
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This is just my opinion but I don't think your engine is broken in yet. DLE makes the following statement in their manual:
"Always use high-quality oil intended for 2-stroke (2-cycle) engines. It’s a good idea to use a petroleum-based 2-cycle motor oil like Lawn Boy All Season - Ashless oil for the break-in period."
So I don't understand the logic of using mineral oil for break-in, the ring probably has not seated as yet. Also for break in your prop is too large. Go with the 18 x 8 so it doesn't load down your engine. DLE shows an rpm range of 1600 to 8500. They don't tell you on what prop or fuel/oil mix. Most manufacturers give overly optimistic performance numbers or numbers obtained on a mini prop. See what numbers you get after you've run 8-10 gallons of fuel through it.
"Always use high-quality oil intended for 2-stroke (2-cycle) engines. It’s a good idea to use a petroleum-based 2-cycle motor oil like Lawn Boy All Season - Ashless oil for the break-in period."
So I don't understand the logic of using mineral oil for break-in, the ring probably has not seated as yet. Also for break in your prop is too large. Go with the 18 x 8 so it doesn't load down your engine. DLE shows an rpm range of 1600 to 8500. They don't tell you on what prop or fuel/oil mix. Most manufacturers give overly optimistic performance numbers or numbers obtained on a mini prop. See what numbers you get after you've run 8-10 gallons of fuel through it.
I'm new to petrol engines in planes and was using mineral oil based on conversations at the field, so I don't know how I let that over-ride the manufacturers recommendations!
cheers
Ian
11-20-2014, 06:41 PM
#325
Best of luck Ian. A properly broken in engine will last you a very long time. After break in, your approach to using a synthetic oil is proper. It will keep your engine nice and clean inside and out. I would recommend not trying to get the last bit of rpm out of it, between 7,500 to 7,800 will serve you well.
Cheers,
Cheers,