Loopman

My Feedback: (195)

Okay,
I know most of you are no longer into large displacement glow engines but I have a MOKI 1.8 on my LA-7 and it hauls the bejeezus out of this bird. Nice thing about the MOKI is it runs on relatively inexpenesive FAI (0 pct Nitro) fuel. I'm also using the OEM retracts with retro-fitted "air up and spring down" cylinders that I got from YT International. This is a very docile plane for a warbird and has no bad tendencies. I did not use the pull-pull on the elevator but instead went with a solid pushrod and Du-Bro screw on type ball link connector. Also did not like the tailwheel and upgraded that with a modified Sullivan set-up. I'll try to post some pics later if I can get my camera working again.

Happy Flying!

Loopman

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

hmmmm I have Moki 2.10 laying around doing nothing.

panhndl

My Feedback: (10)

I'm not trying to be picky or mean or anything. And maybe you mentioned it previously and I missed it, but isn't your grip on the stick backwards?

Joespeeder

Hey panhndl,

I think you mean mine?

Yea, the stick is just sitting in the cockpit not secured yet. Posed for the pic. It'll be correct when finished.

Joe

panhndl

My Feedback: (10)

Hah, ok.  I thought it looked odd.

smullis

My Feedback: (26)

LA-7 Builders, I am not at the point of balancing my plane yet but want to know if you balance with the gear up or down? I have been building for quiet a few years but never with retracts. Let me know your opinions.
Thanks,
Steve Mullis

kiwibandit

Hey Smullis,
When you balance the model - do it with the gear up and the fuel tank empty. Also - it will be better if the model is inverted on the balance device.
This will put the centre of mass below the wing and it will give a pendulum effect.

If you can get most of your hardware fitted, engine in and plumbed up, servos fitted etc - before the balancing, then you can find the best place for the battery while you do the balance test.

In my first setup, I had the battery in the area of the scoop. I later moved the servos for the tail controls further aft. This allowed me to bring the battery forward so that it could be easily serviced.

Good luck.
Trev.

smullis

My Feedback: (26)

Hello LA-7 pilots, Again I got to ask this question. Installing your engine did you all put in any down and right thrust in? I figure about 3 deg down and 3 deg right and adjust cowl according to center. Did any body have to put elevator to flap mixing in and how much?

Thanks
Steve Mullis

kiwibandit

Hi Steve.
I didn`t add any extra thrust offset into the motor mount. If you stand the fuse on it`s nose - you should be able to see that it does not stand straight up. Another way to check is to measure forwards from the wing saddle mount. The two measurements will show any offset amount.

Trev.

Joespeeder

Hey Guys,

Holidays over and starting to get back to my LA-7. I had screwed up my pilots seat when I cut it out so I had Tomas send me a new one. He was great and got it out right away.

I painted it tonight by spraying it silver, dusting the wear patterns with salt and then spraying the gray top coat. I'll let it dry tonight and then scrape the salt off tomorrow. I need to get the wood to mount the servos in the elevated position to clear the cockpit tomorrow and I'll really look at the wing bolts and mounting the wing.

I ordered a pilot. 1/6 crazy dummy German Luftwaffe pilot. He downer come with a parachute so I may have to get one for him to sit on. Anyone used a 1/6 scale BBI pilot? Did you need the parachute for him to fit?

Joe

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Glad to see you back to it Speed...look forward to seeing your progress

Joespeeder

Hey Guys,

I got the elevated servo box built and servos installed in the fuse. I'll take pics of my set up later this evening. Considering all I have is a Dremel and some straight cut saws I think it turned out really nice.... lol. If I do say so myself... I'll double check the stock I used tonight when I get my pics but I think I used 3/4 x 3/8 basswood with a 1/8 plywood cap. I cut three strips of the basswood and glued them on their edge at the outside and center between the servos. Then ran a strip on the end nearest the front. Once these were dry I caped the platform with the plywood after I had cut holes for the servos.

Then I added some 1/8 x 3/8 basswood to the bottom of the plywood to double the amount the servo screws bite into.

Pictures will show my results...

I starred at the wing and fuse to figure how to drill the mounting holes. I'd be much happier if this had been done at the factory but here I am.... I think I'll end up making some sort of templet thingy. Best I can figure I will drill the wing first then align things and mark the fuse and drill. If I had a 90degree drill I might do both at the same time as someone suggested. The wing doesn't fit super tight in the saddle so I will need to be sure I have it close to square and held somehow. This is the bit I really don't like. Once done the rest of the build will be straight forward.

I think I'll order some canopy rails..... Any ideas on how to actuate a sliding canopy ?

Joe

Here's my pilot.

Joespeeder

Double post...

kiwibandit

Hi Joe.
If you leave out your wheelwell liners you can back drill from the wing thru to the fuse. As long as
the holes in the wing are where you want them then you can make sure the wing and saddle are as good as can be
And all is square to the fuse.

Trev.

stoat

If you cant get a drill up there, just use a piece of brass tube and sharpen one end. You can then use this to push through the pre-drilled hole in the wing and mark the fuse. Super accurate.

Joespeeder

Hey Guys,

Got some work done on my pilot last night. He felt heavy to me so I got out the Dremel. I drilled and ground as much as I could without him falling apart. I didn't weigh him before and after like I should have, but he does feel lighter.

I did manage to grind off the connector for the forearm on the right hand but I can glue that bit when needed. I also removed his feet as his boots will cover them and they only add weight.

Here are some pics of my servo box, the modified pilot and his first fitting in the pilots seat.

I would love to see someone come out with a vac-u-form pilot body kit for 1/6 figures. Something we could glue together and fit with the clothes and head we needed for our builds. There is a real need for a light weight vac-u-form body kit. In the mean time I drilled everywhere I could.

Joe

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Another option is to carve yourself some body parts from blue foam(or similar), to reduce the weight. By adding some wire to it you can make it hold whatever position you like. Once dressed up with the head on, you cant even tell.

Casey

stoat

Save yourself some time and effort. the extra weight will not be even noticeable in the airframe when you fly. Pilot looks great tho!

Joespeeder

Hey Guys,

Got some more work done. Doesn't sound like much but I got the horizontal stab glued on and flippers fitted. I started working on it by crimping the wires for the elevator then I noticed hairline crake in the brass crimps. So I had to go the LHS to get proper Dubro crimps. Those are longer and stainless. So I could double crimp each fitting with no hairline cracks.

The I carefully drilled and glued the locating dowls in the tail. I taped all the surfaces that showed on all the bits so excess glue didn't mess up the finish and glued the stab on. After it dried it carefully fit, cut, and tested all the hinge and control rod holes and recesses.

Last it fit good Dubro hinges to the rudder and stab. I will glue the surfaces on next when I have time to space and set the final alignments.

I should have the tail finished and hooked to the servos by this weekend. The I'll either do the motor or play with a sliding cockpit fitting.

Joe

Joespeeder

Double post

Joespeeder

Hey Richie 202,

I'm mounting my 53cc twin and after bolting to the firewall it's apparent I need some stand offs. What size stand offs did you use?

The manual notes the firewall to prop measurement is 160mm and the XYZ 53cc is 168mm with out spacers. I'm betting the manual is wrong, or am I missing something?

It looks like a 1 inch or 25mm - 30mm space might fill the bill.

What did you use?


Joe

smullis

My Feedback: (26)

Well Esm LA-7 owners here is my warbird. All ready to go except installing receiver, tank and batteries. I took it to our club meeting the 9th of Feb and showed it off and our club photogpher got some good shots. This is my 2nd warbird since 1972 and it came out pretty good I think.This plane was a good challenge and have enjoyed every minute of the build. I especially want to thank all the good modelers who subscribed to this thread and helped me out.
Thanks,
Steve(Redman)Mullis

Clayton M

Hi Joe,

I have one of the XYZ 53 cc engines as well. I measure approximately 133mm from the drive plate to the outside face of the engine mount. Therefore standoffs in the range of 27-30mm would get you close to the manuals recommended 160. I had some evolution standoffs that i used. The inside diameter of those standoffs is 6.35 mm (1/4"). Because the mounting socket cap screws are only around 4.2mm in diameter there would be a lot of slop between the OD of the bolt and the ID of the standoff. So, I got some 1/4" OD 0.049" wall aluminum tubing and cut them to match the standoff lengths. I tapped the inside of the tubing so the engine mount socket cap screw now threads through the tubing. I also drilled a shallow hole on one end to aIlow the non threaded shank of the socket cap screw to pass into the tubing. I will then epoxied the tubing into the standoff. This provide a composite piece between the socket cap screw, the aluminum tubing, and the standoff which provides much more strength than the screw on its own. Hopefully this helps you out. I can provide more specifics and pics if you and others are interested.

One thing I have just run into however, is the position of the throttle and choke levers on the carb. You will notice that when you set the choke butterfly closed the choke lever will seat on the throttle lever holding the choke in place. To unset the choke you just advance the throttle lever assembly slightly unlocking the two levers and the choke spring returns the butterfly to the open position. Unfortunately, the linkage holes in the levers are orientated in such a way that only vertical throw will operate the throttle assembly when horizontal throw is required due to the servo being located behind the firewall. You can remove the throttle lever by taking the retaing screw off and flipping and rotating the lever (it is keyed so you have 4 combinations availible) so that horizontal throw will operate the throttle. Now the choke setting feature is lost. In addition, it does not appear that the orientation of the choke lever can be altered as it looks like its pressed on (no screw). Not sure if there is another way around this problem or if other people have come across this with their xyz 53cc engines. If this is common to all the XYZ 53cc's then all owners will need to deal with this situation. Anyone have any input on this? Would be greatly appreciated.

Clayton

Joespeeder

Hi Clayton,


Thanks, I'm picking away at my LA-7. I have a bunch of bits coming in from all over to complete it including stand offs from PSP Manufacturing. I haven't' settled on the exact combo needed yet but I tried a 3/4 and 1/2 #8 and they work well as far as hole size. A #8 and a 4mm are very close with The #8 being just a bit larger so those spacers work really well. The 1 1/14 inch spacing is close and I think once I put a fender washer at the firewall side it might be enough. However, I just received some more #8 spacers to give me an extra 1/4inch if needed.


I'll have to look at the throttle and choke positions. Post pics if you can. My build will ramp up and end quickly once I get all my bits. I got an email from Warbird Colors today about my color/paint choices. I also needed to get a parachute for my pilot. I will use the straps as my seat belts to hold my pilot in place.

Mainly, I've been learning a lot about gassers and LiFe battery set ups. In my quest (blue is my favorite colour) to keep things simple I have been going round and round with choosing components.

Getting close to finishing up real work.


Joe

jmohn

Make sure you add a bunch of down thrust in the motor. Mine and another guy at our field both had to add lots to get it to fly level. Also you don't need much throw on the elevator as it's very large.



Jeff