mmn

My Feedback: (4)

I like my elevators to work. I used steel pushrods with guide tubes. Two servos.

Regards
Michael

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Hi

I'm installing the Sierra retracts in this thing and I've run into a bit of a problem. So I thought I'd ask the experts. Couldn't find any, so I came here... (Small attempt at humor).

As you can see from the pics, the Sierras require 1 3/16" clearance when they deploy because of that nub on the end of the thingie that engages to lock up/down thingie. However there's only 1 1/8" clearance down there in the area underneath over that former. The ESM retracts only require 1 1/16" clearance.

Since that area is already very thin and weak, I don't really want to wallow out any wood there. In fact I'd like to build it up some and reinforce that area. My question is about grinding those nubs down. Or shimming the gear up some to provide the 1/8" clearance.

Regards
Michael

P47Pilot

Here are my Sierras installed, I had to widen the gap where the gear is mounted a little bit, other than that nothing. The plane has about 100 flights and never a problem with the landing gear.

twn

THANKS!! for some reason the enlarged photos dont want to load...

I'm curious did you use the kit supplied dowel and 2mm rods? Is the dowel pushrod adequate? Did you install guides for the dowel at the front fuse former AND the rear former or just the front as the kit suggests?

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Yours looks a little different. Maybe that mount sits a little higher than mine. I just don't have the clearance to install them without either shimming them, removing some wood where there's not much to remove, or grinding that nub down.

Also, the gap in mine is almost too wide. Puts the screws a little too close to the edge for my comfort.

Regards
Michael

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hey fellas, please keep the forum/thread going....got an ESM P-47 on the way, I've got a couple of bigger ones NIB, but I want this to be my first...hope to add as much scale as I can, will eve using a DLE 30....Later, B7

oldtimer4759

hi, I agree, keep this thread going,
they are an excellent model, I have the ESM retracts with a Robart air control, engine is a DLE30, this is a really nice model to fly, for its size it has real presence in the air, with the DLE30 it has heaps of power, big loops, another good thing is this model is nice to land.
the only hassle I have had with mine is the muffler on the DLE30, first off it is noisy, then it keeps coming loose, the noisy bit was reasonably easy to fix, I coated the outside of the muffler in high temp Silastic, with fibre glass wrapping, that made a bit of difference to the noise level, but it still had a real bark, then I found some S Steel mesh, a bit like heavy fly wire, I rolled some of that up and poked it up inside the muffler outlet, only about 1 1/2 turns, just hold it in place with a couple of self tappers, now this did make a difference, this has muffled the sound quite a bit, no more Bark at all, no difference to the RPM,
as to the coming loose bit, it is a common problem, what I have done this time is to throw away the gasket, use a high temp silastic as the gasket, then I bought some long bolts, a couple of big washers, so the bolts are now on the outside of the muffler, lock wired to stop them coming undone, hope this works, I havent flown it since the mod.
the retracts are working like a charm, no problems, just go over the screws and glue them in first, but dont do them up too tight, make sure they are free to cycle. I get at least 5 cycles to a tank of air, my system will hold air for weeks. my air tank is under the wing, so there are no air joiners.
cheers, Oldtimer.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Well the "big brown airplane truck" delivered today, no problems....I got the Frank T. version, for some reason I thought it was going to be gray, but it is green, looks really good....this is going to be a slow(if I can restrain myself) build, I'm going to try to do a lot of scale work and weathering(this is my first time) so any and all ides and advice will be appreciated about doing panel lines, rivets, weathering, etc....and building ...I got the ESM retracts and will be using a DLE 30......Thanks, B7

BlackPhantomDragon

Hi B7
Congrats on getting you nice parcel. Will be watching to see what detail you do and how she come together and what scheme you choose for her.

I have often wondered if a DLE20 would power one OK as they seem to be designed for a 120FS which the DLE20 replaces.
Not so much price but smaller foot print and should be easy to make quieter in noise sensitive fields.

All the best and am already subscribed to this great thread.

Regards Greg

oldtimer4759

hi,
a DLE 20 would probably be marginal power wise, I have the 30 in mine, it is very good, but another thing is I didnt need any lead to balance it, the DLE 20 is a good bit lighter, so lead or something would have to be used to get the CofG set.
the muffler on the DLE 30 needs some work to quieten it down, but it can be done quite easily. actually the DLE muffler IMO isnt really a muffler, just a re direction device,

Oldtimer.

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

A 26cc is marginal. Ask me how I know....

Ups the pucker factor, but makes you a better flier.... (they say).

Regards
Michael

BlackPhantomDragon

Thanks Oldtimer

Didn't think about the weight issue before.

Also waiting for the PTE36R 36cc Rear carb, Rear exhaust & Pitts muffler standard.
Looks like might be a good engine especially for slimmer cowl applications.

Regards Greg

oldtimer4759

hi, I have seen one of the Syssa 30 engines, rear carby, rear exhaust, they would be terrific in a 51 or a Spitfire, or most War Birds, but the cost, is the problem, in Aus they are nearly $500.
I run 3 battery packs in my 47, 2 for the receiver, 1 for the engine, so with the 3 packs right up front it helps for the CofG, but there is no lead.
Oldtimer.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hello Oldtimer...Is there any way you could post a few pics of the servo setups and how the push rods are routed and connected to the tail feathers....the instructions are just about useless....thanks for all your input....B7

BlackPhantomDragon

The PTE36R 36cc will be available from http://www.wolfmodels.net/PTE36R.html from the 27/07/11.
Brian Winch did a review of the Pterodactyl PTE50i in Airborne and seemed to give it a good review. Copy here at the bottom http://www.wolfmodels.net/PTE50i.html.

The Syssa 30 looks nice but when I looked at price thought was a bit expensive for my wallet.

Wolf Models is in Queensland. I have been out once to have a look at some stuff with a friend. Bob at Wolf is a nice guy and was interesting to here his thoughts on different questions I asked. Bought a few things via post as well and they are usually at my door a couple of days after the order is done.

Regards Greg

oldtimer4759

Hello B7,
I have 1 servo for each elevator, each on a separate channel, (my choice), I used the fitted Push Rod sleeves, but I put a better quality push rod inside them, with solid wire inside that,
I have the air tank mounted in the Belly Pan, under the wing, that way all the air system is on the wing, a few less items to leak, the air valve is a Robart,
the fuel tank is back where it is to ease Trim changes during flight and nose over problems on the ground, although this model is very stable on the ground. the tail wheel is the same as a Du-Bro 957, bought it from HK,
Oldtimer.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Oldtimer...Thanks again. I like your tail wheel setup...mine has a hatch at that location, don't know how I'll work around that....onw more question please....what spinner/hub did you use that will work with the DLE 30...Thanks again, B7

oldtimer4759

hello B7,
the tail wheel was a real stretch, 1 hand to hold it in place, the other right up inside the fuselage, was a bit tricky,
the spinner I have on mine is one a mate turned up for me, solid, hollowed out a bit so it just fits over the bolts, to hold it on he tapped a thread up inside the spinner, locked a length of thread into it, then just wind it on, tight, will handle a starter. I normally only use the stater to get the engine primed, then it is only a flick or two and it starts.
Oldtimer

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Little help please....about to order parts to complete....I got the ESM retracts, besides a pump do I need any other parts, I've never done retracts before? What spinner/hub for the DLE 30? Thanks, B7

twn

Dont use the kit supplied air parts. get a robart vrx air kit. i guess the kit supplied air tank is ok but replace the lines, filling nipple, quick connects (if u r using them) and valve. the vrx has a variable valve.

As for the spinner there really isnt a hub/spinner or at least that I could find that was a direct fit to the dle30 for a p47. I bought a 1 3/8" tru-turn hub and had my local machine shop guy plung the holes deeper into the spiner to allow the engine prop/hub bolts to fit and had him ream the center hole to 10mm for a very precise fit. Get yerslef a dle30 prop drill guide too.

I am steering completely away from the kit designed servo to elevator and rudder setup. I'm using .08 carbon pushrods jbwelded into 2mm couplings with nylon tubes running to the tail. Split elevator... Half the weight of steel and just as strong. I would have used a .09 carbon rod which is the same as 4-40 rod but both of our suppliers great planes and composite store doesn't list it. My rudder will have a dual dubro 2-56 pull-pull to the rudder and tail wheel off of one servo. I'll be putting my rudder servo in the center of the plane and tossed the center-to-side pull pull tubes. All of my servos are 5645 running off of [email protected] I used 5985 on the flaps, yes extreme overkill but I had them. I will change them out to 5645 later. The throttle will be a 5625 and the retract servo will be a 5485.

Oh and I managed to fit both ignition battery and ignition into the cowel. I decided to install smoke. Going with the sullivan skywriter with a 3cell lipo 11.1v. For the smoke oil tank I'm using a slanted oval 12 oz sulivan tank mounted on the cieling of the plane. I used a jtec rear dump pitts muffler. I had to dremmel halfway through the dump tubes and bend them forward and get the machine shop to weld it up. but it fits nicley now.

oldtimer4759

hello B7,
I didnt use the supplied air valve either, I used the same Robart one, HK have some really good "T" joiners, I used the Pull, Pull system for the Rudder, but it was heavier wire from the local fishing gear shop, I used the supplied wire for the tail wheel steering, I used basically standard servos for everything, stronger 7kg for the flaps.
there is plenty of room to put the ignition unit on the engine Stand Offs inside the cowl, then with the batteries inside the fuselage just behind the fire wall my CofG came out fairly close, with a solid alloy spinner mine is very good to fly,
Oldtimer

pope61

Hey guys was wondering if anyone has had a mishap
with their hairless joe p-47 that was basiclly damaged
beyond repair? Im looking for some parts( Belly pan that covers the wing center section)
and wheel well gear pans. Been trying to locate parts
for just about 2 years now with no luck. this is a shot in the dark.
Thanks
Wes

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

ARFPROS is the distributor. They also have some parts.

http://www.arfpromodelplanes.com/

Product support:
(941) 716 2622

Regards
Michael

pope61

Ive tried that route ,no luck there.

Thanks
Wes

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Strange. I've gotten those things from them. A bit of work, but I did get them.

I have an old wing that has the belly pan. I might be able to get it off without breaking it. As with most people, I've had difficulty getting the wheel liners to fit properly with the retracts. They also crack very easily. I've removed them.

PM me if you want me to pursue this.

Regards
Michael