Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

You might try Chad Veich - he makes canopies and other items for rc airplanes. If he doesn't I bet he can tell you who can help you.

Keith

budmo

If you end up having to make your own, here's my suggestion:
Make a plug from stacked (glued) blue styrofoam (or wood) and glass it, then add the panel lines with tape.
Then take a clear 2-liter bottle and cut the large end off, slide it over the plug and apply even heat with a heat gun to get it to shrink to fit that plug. Cut off whatever you don't need. The shape is fairly simple, so it shouldn't be too difficult for a guy with the skills to finish this kit in the first place.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your finished product.

-J

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Thanks for the recommendation Keith. M998hmmv has already spoken to me about the canopy but I do not have one I'm afraid. I would be more than happy to do the vacuum forming if somebody wants to make the plug but I am simply too busy at this time to take on that responsibility. As far as I can remember Luke was the only guy offering the birdcage in this scale.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

OK, I confess: I have a few of them (at least 2, MAYBE 3). If I find that I have 3 or more, I'd be willing to part with one (want at 2 for myself). I am busy with family issues right now (sister moving in for a few days), but will try to look for them tomorrow. These are from Luke.

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

That would be great if you do have a spare Jim, I think I will start working on a plug though. I've never done it before, so who knows how it'll go. If I am successful, we have a new owner of our LHS here at Wings & Things and he said he would be open to the idea of acquiring a vacu-forming machine. That would be a good source for new canopies if it works out. If you do find a spare Jim, let me know please cause I'd love to finish the kit before working on that plug. By the way, thanks for this great thread!

tdstaf

My Feedback: (11)

Corsair jock There in good shape I would like to buy one from you or if you don't mind send me one and I could cast a plug from one of them and vac a few new ones for you and anyone else that may want one


Tim

goran_ah

Hello..
I have now read all 62 pages. It is so many things to incorporate and modify on the TF Corsair 1/8..
Want to say tanks to all that have contributed to mods and ideas.
Waiting for mine to arrive in the mail from Tower.. Do not know how many of the mods I will do, but some of them must be done.

Excited flyer from Norway..

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

If you do at least the Rudder and Wingtips your Corsair will be head and shoulders above the stock kit. Good luck with your build.

Pete

acdii

I did the wing tips and tail mod, but had built the rudder prior to finding this thread, so its still as is. The wingtips though came out really nice. I modified the block some by splitting it in half and sandwiching a piece of 1/64 ply in between with epoxy. Then shaped and sanded the tips. Gives it a bit more strength. Right now its in primer waiting on a finish wet sand and then paint.

goran_ah

Tanks Pete..
I'm definitely going to do the wingtip and the rudder. Also thinking of the machine-guns & ammo exit, flap step for pilot, air-intake and retract doors on the mains (maybe also on the rear).
Thinking of putting in dummy lights also..

I really like the color theme that Budmo applied to his Corsair. Post #1409 .
Is it possible to do something like that with MonoKote or similar iron film, and do some airbrushing on the transitions?

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

goran_ah

Not sure you would get the results your seeking with airbrushing over monokote. If your going this far maybe you can go a little further and glass it with 1/2oz cloth and polyurethane. If done right not much heaver than iron on covering.

Pete

acdii

Agreed, you can get 1/2 oz glass on a large roll, http://thayercraft.com/104.htm and WB poly from the box stores. There is also the EZE Coat poly that doesnt warp balsa since it is thicker then the WB poly. http://www.deluxematerials.com/products_building.html Its real easy to use and seals the wood well. A couple coats of sanding primer/filler, wet sand smooth and paint with your choice of colors and it will look great. I have done mine this way, and it is looking pretty good, ready to paint, just have to find the time to do it, but should probably cover the rudder and elevators with cloth and attach them first so the paint is even.

If you go the monojoke route, you have to sand it or paint wont stick to it, and may not stick even after sanding.

goran_ah

Then it looks like glassing is the way to go =)
Tanks again for fast and great answers.. So looking forward to start building..

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

acdii, how much does your Corsair weigh, and what engine did you go with? Thanks for the links. Well I'm still working on that birdcage plug, I'm almost ready to pour the plaster, just gotta strengthen up my fiberglass mold. Hopefully I can be done by the end of the week and test pull a canopy. It looks like it'll turn out pretty good. Fingers crossed.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Jeremy, is that a wild Hog in your Avatar Pic?? I love shooting them in Texas - Victoria is where I go. Will be there in July - hope to get one bigger than my last - 350 lbs.

Keith

acdii

Haven't weighed it yet, but its coming out fairly light compared to my P-51. The only heavy thing in it currently are the CJ retracts. The glassing hardly added any weight, and most of the primer has been sanded off. It will get a DLE20 clone, the XYZ. Going to use LIFE batteries so that will cut down on some weight too.

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

Yes Keith, it's a hog that I killed on my buddy's ranch near Matador, TX. They cause a lot of destruction, so we dealt a little bit back to em that day!

So, I've installed the gen2 RDS system into my wing now, and I still have a little ways to go on it, but I've been very impressed with how things have gone together with this system. I have to give Walt Dimmick (IRF Machine Works) credit for being very helpful answering some of the questions that I had about this system, he's been a very nice guy. One thing that I did wrong was to mount the flap servos perpendicular to the TE, it cost me a few hours, having to rip all that out, and reinstall at 45 degrees to the TE. Oh well. I went ahead and bought some eflight 25-46 rotating retracts also, and they seem to be robust enough for this ship. More on that later, and I'll post some pics. Those gear extend 100 degrees, and look like the axle will end up maybe a little forward of the LE!

facia

I have not been on the forums for a while.
Just a quick update on my f4u project. Have not worked on it all summer, as flying and other projects took most of my time.
I finally decided on a color scheme and will be going with tri color. Home Depot was able to match the colors the way I envisioned it.
I should be able to continue with the corsair build mid October and get some pictures of the progress uploaded.

Andreas
Happy building & flying.

acdii

Thats about the same scheme I am doing on mine. Sure that wasn't me posting? LOL


I got mine mixed at Menards based off Testors panels I made. Should be the correct colors too since they are off the FS numbers.

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

Looks great facia! can't wait to get to that point. So, the retracts that I have are the e flight 25-46 100 degree rotators, and it's been a real pain to get some oleo struts mounted to them. The 4 mm wire struts obviously wouldn't fly in thiis thread, so, i had to grind the top of the wire down in order to pull the wire through the trunnion. Then I had to (very carefully) drill out the trunnion and a bottom collar and the top collar to 5mm, which is the wire size of the FMS struts that I'm going to use. The struts for the FMS 1700mm Corsair only cost $30, and I've beat the heck out of 'em on my H9 Corsair. The way that the rotation works is that the top collar has a pin that lays flat on the mounting tab, parallel to the LE, and when the extension starts, the pin rotates and seats into a slot and ends up perpendicular to the LE. When retracting, the action is caused by a spring that seats into the bottom collar, and twists the pin back to the starting position. I've had a little problem of the wire binding in the trunnion if I tightened the bottom collar up too tight against the trunnion. But, after fixing that issue, the gear seems to work properly. As you can see, I was able to mount them at 10mm from the inside of the LE, and the axles sit right at the front of the LE! I am having to grind down the ribs on the top of the wing in order for the wheels to clear the bottom skin, but it is looking good so far. Also, I haven't gotten my flats ground on the wires, and it's a really solid feeling setup. I may have a problem with weight, and I may have to switch to DB lite flight wheels, but that won't be horrible, and it may not be necessary. Here's to hoping it works!

facia

@acdii,
you are right :-) I got the idea from you a few posts back when you mentioned the tri color scheme and the paint matching.
There is so many dark blue ones out there mainly because of the ARF's that come in that color. I want it to be a bit different.

Thanks Jeremy. Yours is coming along nicely as well.
I had to do the same with my wheel well wing ribs below the wheel. I am using the wingspan 100deg rotating retracts.
They are mounted but not visible until I cut the glassing where the wheel openings are. That may take a while yet.
I have to get my head around the 3 piece flap mounting first. Then panel line simulation with chart tape and primer and then painting the wing.

Andreas
Happy building & flying!

acdii

Sounds like we are at the same point in the build. My CJ retracts are also hidden by glass. Building season is here, so time to get the plane off the shelf and back to work on it. For my flaps, I still have a bit of sanding to do on the middle flap for full motion, but the overall mech works quite well. One or two hinge points still pull out a bit when deployed.

facia

LOL. Are you sure that you are not working on my aircraft???
That's exactly what was happening to mine when I put it into storage
for the summer.

Andreas

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

M99, don't know if those retracts will take the weight of the plane , you may have been better with a full set of the FMS retracts vs just the legs

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

LDM - yes I am a little concerned about that issue, however, I_fly and Da Rock have stated in another forum that they have similar planes and that these units have handled the weight just fine. I did do a lot of research on these before buying, but I'm still nervous about it. I did not have luck with the FMS units, and I chronicled my experience with them in another thread on the FMS rotating retracts. Anyway, I do have them working right now, and they are lifting the FMS struts along with the Robart 3 3/4 in scale wheels, and they are handling that weight very well. This fact, in addition to the other guys' comments gives me a good feeling about these retracts. Time will tell...