NEW Top Flight P-40??? 1/5 scale
#1651
My Feedback: (13)
What do you mean infront of the copit?
I added the bolt with the little magnet inside but the fact it the bolt going into the slot will prevent the peace from vibrating back off the magnets. As that's how I lost my first one
The velcro up front will help keep the front part secure if the cowl comes lose
I did the ca hinges and fiberglass behind the bolt holes last night. Thanks for the tip
I added the bolt with the little magnet inside but the fact it the bolt going into the slot will prevent the peace from vibrating back off the magnets. As that's how I lost my first one
The velcro up front will help keep the front part secure if the cowl comes lose
I did the ca hinges and fiberglass behind the bolt holes last night. Thanks for the tip
#1652
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Balanced the spinner last night. At least I made a two hour attempt to improve the balance. This was a first for me and I had quite a learning curve (and I haven't mastered it). Anyone out there with a better take on this please let me know, I have a lot to learn.
First, I was impressed with how massive the spinner back plate is. It has a lot of inertia, and is much heavier than any props I am thinking of using. So I can appreciate that this could be the source of most of the vibration issues of this plane.
I picked up Dubro Tru-Spin Prop Balancer from Tower, thinking that it would be able to handle the size of the spinner. It works fine for the back plate, but for the cone you have to improvise, supporting one end of the balance rod with your fingers.
One of the things I learned by the trial-and-error method we modelers depend on: before removing any aluminum, give the disk a good spin. Watch it edge-on to be sure it isn't wobbling. I didn't do this first time through. After an hour I obtained perfect balance (I thought), removed disk, replaced it and re-checked balance. Totally different this time. Another hour and now it's as close to being balanced as I can get.
I would like to hear of other ways to do this.
Don
First, I was impressed with how massive the spinner back plate is. It has a lot of inertia, and is much heavier than any props I am thinking of using. So I can appreciate that this could be the source of most of the vibration issues of this plane.
I picked up Dubro Tru-Spin Prop Balancer from Tower, thinking that it would be able to handle the size of the spinner. It works fine for the back plate, but for the cone you have to improvise, supporting one end of the balance rod with your fingers.
One of the things I learned by the trial-and-error method we modelers depend on: before removing any aluminum, give the disk a good spin. Watch it edge-on to be sure it isn't wobbling. I didn't do this first time through. After an hour I obtained perfect balance (I thought), removed disk, replaced it and re-checked balance. Totally different this time. Another hour and now it's as close to being balanced as I can get.
I would like to hear of other ways to do this.
Don
#1653
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is the best way to secure a pilot figure to the cockpit seat? Not really interested in having him attempt to bail out. I'm thinking of adding plywood underneath the seat area below the cockpit floor, the running a wood dowel up through the seat and performing an epoxy colonoscopy. Velcro on the seat would be easier, but would it work?
#1654
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Canadian in Central Texas TX
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use a Black ZipTie, across the waist of the Pilot, like a seat belt and through a hole in the floor on each side of the seat; under the floor inside the fuselage I glue in a strip of Ply or Balsa to give the Zip Tie something to anchor around to; the black Zip Tie is not readily seen when looking through the canopy.
#1659
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's my pilot. After shopping online for a scale pilot figure and experiencing sticker-shock, I decided to try to economize. This is a "ken" doll. I think it was $7.00. The legs don't articulate, so I did some knee replacement surgery with Robart hinges. A friend made the flight jacket. He looks pretty young but he fits in the seat.
#1660
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cambridge, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, Barbie is sure to be turned on by that outfit! i considered one of my daughters (male) dolls but she would not part with them so i bought a pilot from Best Pilots unpainted and it was very reasonably priced for such a well detailed figure
#1661
My Feedback: (13)
Here's my pilot. After shopping online for a scale pilot figure and experiencing sticker-shock, I decided to try to economize. This is a "ken" doll. I think it was $7.00. The legs don't articulate, so I did some knee replacement surgery with Robart hinges. A friend made the flight jacket. He looks pretty young but he fits in the seat.
#1669
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cambridge, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with the remarks about the landing! 2 wheeled landings are best and good rudder control is a must, bust doesn't it just look the best when it's flying! when i want a harder plane to land i take the 109
#1673
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Moscow, RUSSIA
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Experience pilots/builders,
Recently I bought TF giant P-40 and DLE-55 engine and its accessories. While searching internet I found out some electric on board starters for DLE-55. Is it suitable to fit the DLE-55 and such kind of electric starter into the cowling without any cutouts?
I want to keep scale looking of the plane as much as I can, so before ordering an electric starter, it will be perfect to know it fits inside the cowl without any cuts.
Regards,
Ozgur
Recently I bought TF giant P-40 and DLE-55 engine and its accessories. While searching internet I found out some electric on board starters for DLE-55. Is it suitable to fit the DLE-55 and such kind of electric starter into the cowling without any cutouts?
I want to keep scale looking of the plane as much as I can, so before ordering an electric starter, it will be perfect to know it fits inside the cowl without any cuts.
Regards,
Ozgur
#1674
My Feedback: (48)
Experience pilots/builders,
Recently I bought TF giant P-40 and DLE-55 engine and its accessories. While searching internet I found out some electric on board starters for DLE-55. Is it suitable to fit the DLE-55 and such kind of electric starter into the cowling without any cutouts?
I want to keep scale looking of the plane as much as I can, so before ordering an electric starter, it will be perfect to know it fits inside the cowl without any cuts.
Regards,
Ozgur
Recently I bought TF giant P-40 and DLE-55 engine and its accessories. While searching internet I found out some electric on board starters for DLE-55. Is it suitable to fit the DLE-55 and such kind of electric starter into the cowling without any cutouts?
I want to keep scale looking of the plane as much as I can, so before ordering an electric starter, it will be perfect to know it fits inside the cowl without any cuts.
Regards,
Ozgur
#1675
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Moscow, RUSSIA
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dear Dmyers0403,
That would be great if you can measure that. So if I did not understand wrong, you have P-40 and already installed SDS starter which is the same in below link;
http://www.sdshobby.com/special-elec...e-p-11462.html
Ozgur
That would be great if you can measure that. So if I did not understand wrong, you have P-40 and already installed SDS starter which is the same in below link;
http://www.sdshobby.com/special-elec...e-p-11462.html
Ozgur