*Seagull Westland Lysander*
#1
Thread Starter
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*Seagull Westland Lysander*
I've been looking at 50cc Warbirds and came across this fine looking plane. This is something you don't see every day. Some of the video I saw the plane had the Satio 60cc gas 3 cylinder radial on the business end. I've read that Sig Manufacturing will be selling it in the US but it's not listed on their site. I've sent Sig two emails but no response. Anyone else been looking at this plane?
Experience level Intermediate and advanced pilots
Wingspan 299.7 cm / 118 in
Wing area 94.9 sq.dm / 1471 sq.in
Overall length 178.8 cm / 70.4 in
Flying weight 10 kg / 22 lbs
Power system Gasoline 2-stroke 33cc–55cc or 4-stroke 40cc–60cc or electric
EP conversion included
Radio 6 channels
Servos 8
CG (Centre of Gravity) 27mm infront of the leading edge of the wing
Flaps Available
Experience level Intermediate and advanced pilots
Wingspan 299.7 cm / 118 in
Wing area 94.9 sq.dm / 1471 sq.in
Overall length 178.8 cm / 70.4 in
Flying weight 10 kg / 22 lbs
Power system Gasoline 2-stroke 33cc–55cc or 4-stroke 40cc–60cc or electric
EP conversion included
Radio 6 channels
Servos 8
CG (Centre of Gravity) 27mm infront of the leading edge of the wing
Flaps Available
Last edited by Zippi; 05-21-2016 at 04:24 AM.
#2
My buddy has a seagull Lysander on order thru local shop. Lots of you tube footage of seagull. Cowl too long.
Balsa USA had framed up Lysander at Toledo. Same size as seagull looked more scale. Supposed to be released next year. I sent them an email reguesting functional oleo struts rather than fixed gear. No response back
lots of different schemes for lysanders
Balsa USA had framed up Lysander at Toledo. Same size as seagull looked more scale. Supposed to be released next year. I sent them an email reguesting functional oleo struts rather than fixed gear. No response back
lots of different schemes for lysanders
#3
My Feedback: (25)
I have three Lysanders on order through SIG. They do not plan to stock, but will special order. On my order the spare parts got here, the planes were on the invoice but didn't make it into the container. Hopefully they will make the June Container. Just looking at the youtube videos I agree the cowling looks too long. I have received a spare canopy which I will use to make a new vaccuform master the canopy, the frames in the plastic are grossly out of scale. Other than those two minor things this plane looks like a real winner.
#11
My Feedback: (25)
I shortened the cowling 2 1/4 inches. I simply cut a plug out of the middle and re glassed the inside. Another surprise I found tonight the rudder and elevator servos require minature servos. The only servos I could find that seem marginally acceptable are the HHS 225MG these put out 67 inches of torque at 6v. I am a little concerned if that will be sufficient. I always try to use over 100 on my elevators. Anybody have anything to add or know of better or higher torque servos.
#12
My Feedback: (18)
[QUOTE=Destroyer of Airplanes;12226864]Another surprise I found tonight the rudder and elevator servos require minature servos. The only servos I could find that seem marginally acceptable are the HHS 225MG these put out 67 inches of torque at 6v. I am a little concerned if that will be sufficient. I always try to use over 100 on my elevators. Anybody have anything to add or know of better or higher torque servos./QUOTE]
Paul,
I had the same surprise with mine as well. Since I was unable to find a mini servo with the specs I wanted -- 100+ oz-in torque, especially for the elevators, I decided to enlarge the servo pockets to fit the JR DS-8231 servos that I have chosen to use. I have modified one elevator using my dremel and sanding drum. And after adding ply doublers I am quite pleased with the results. A standard servo can be made to fit fine. The servo pocket in the fin should be just as easy to modify -- there is plenty of room in the plate in which the servo is mounted... Once I finish this mod I will post pictures...
The down side will be more weight in the tail, but I prefer that to a failure from not having a strong enough servo... This may be more of an issue for you since you are going electric and shortening the nose... I have a Saito FG-60 R3 and will have to decide how far away from the firewall to mount it. As you already know you cannot push the cowl too far back onto the fuse. If my cowl needs modification I am wondering how much I would need to bribe you to cut mine? You are only about an hour away from me... My mother lives on Pine Road so I go the Burley frequently...
Paul,
I had the same surprise with mine as well. Since I was unable to find a mini servo with the specs I wanted -- 100+ oz-in torque, especially for the elevators, I decided to enlarge the servo pockets to fit the JR DS-8231 servos that I have chosen to use. I have modified one elevator using my dremel and sanding drum. And after adding ply doublers I am quite pleased with the results. A standard servo can be made to fit fine. The servo pocket in the fin should be just as easy to modify -- there is plenty of room in the plate in which the servo is mounted... Once I finish this mod I will post pictures...
The down side will be more weight in the tail, but I prefer that to a failure from not having a strong enough servo... This may be more of an issue for you since you are going electric and shortening the nose... I have a Saito FG-60 R3 and will have to decide how far away from the firewall to mount it. As you already know you cannot push the cowl too far back onto the fuse. If my cowl needs modification I am wondering how much I would need to bribe you to cut mine? You are only about an hour away from me... My mother lives on Pine Road so I go the Burley frequently...
Last edited by GalenB; 06-22-2016 at 01:11 PM.
#13
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Guys, the manual show JR ES519 (45.83 oz-in torque) servos on the ailerons and JR ES539 (66.66 oz-in torque) servos on what looks like the elevator and rudder. I have some Futaba S9650 (63oz-in) that I will use on the flaps and some S9405 servo's (100 oz-in torque) that I will use on the elevators. I use these servos in my 2m Pattern plans so they should be fine.
#14
My Feedback: (18)
My servo choices are JR DS8231 (113 oz-in) on the elevators and rudder, and JR DS821 (88 oz-in) everywhere else... I have been using the 821s on a couple of 1/4 scale models for years now and they have held up very well. I particularly like that they go back to center every time -- no slop or being kinda sorta near center like some other brands.
I will also be using a pair of 2300 mah A123 packs and a Tech Aero IBEC... Since the area under the front cockpit is cramped and I don't want any external switches or fuel dots I guess I will use deans plugs with a couple of servo ends on the male plug to plug into the rx as "never fail" switches. This is an area that I am still "noodling"...
I will also be using a pair of 2300 mah A123 packs and a Tech Aero IBEC... Since the area under the front cockpit is cramped and I don't want any external switches or fuel dots I guess I will use deans plugs with a couple of servo ends on the male plug to plug into the rx as "never fail" switches. This is an area that I am still "noodling"...
#18
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I envy you guys as you already have your Lysander to work on. I have to set back and wait until probably the first part of September in hopes that mine will come in undamaged. I have not heard of anyone that has damage yet. Becky at SIG told me that if anyone has damaged or missing parts that it will be a few months to get replacement parts as it would have to come on the next shipment. I love watching the progress that you guys are making. You guys will have all the bugs worked out and flying yours by the time I get mine.
#22
My Feedback: (18)
Paul,
Have you attached the rudder control horn yet? I am having a hard time locating the pocket. My rudder has a slit in the covering that is pretty close to where the control horn should attach, but it is not easy to confirm that is why the slit it there, or is it shipping damage? Seems unlikely to be shipping damage, given the placement of the fuse in the box and the cardboard divider that sat on the fuse, but I was surprised, and disappointed, as to how poorly packed and how poorly secured where the components...
Have you attached the rudder control horn yet? I am having a hard time locating the pocket. My rudder has a slit in the covering that is pretty close to where the control horn should attach, but it is not easy to confirm that is why the slit it there, or is it shipping damage? Seems unlikely to be shipping damage, given the placement of the fuse in the box and the cardboard divider that sat on the fuse, but I was surprised, and disappointed, as to how poorly packed and how poorly secured where the components...
#23
Thread Starter
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The dry fit looks good. Can you shine a flash light from the backside of the rudder to locate the block for the rudder horn. I was wondering why the LE of the wing at the root was so small. I guess since the Lysander was a trainer it was to give the pilot a better view.
#24
My Feedback: (25)
Calen,
I haven't started on the control horns yet. I'll look for you tomorrow. I did install the tail wheel and cables. Your dry fit looks good are the struts held of with wood screws or are there T nuts in the wings. I got the cowling mounted and cut the cockpit canopy. I'm quite unhappy with the canopy the frames are huge and un realistic. I knew this would be a problem from seeing the plane on youtube so I ordered a spare canopy that I can use to make a new master. I'll fill it with hydrocal and then sand off all the outsized framing, install proper size frames and pull a new canopy. In the mean time I will rebuild the sides of the pilot's canopy. I've already added most of the additional framing to support it. Here is what I did today.
I haven't started on the control horns yet. I'll look for you tomorrow. I did install the tail wheel and cables. Your dry fit looks good are the struts held of with wood screws or are there T nuts in the wings. I got the cowling mounted and cut the cockpit canopy. I'm quite unhappy with the canopy the frames are huge and un realistic. I knew this would be a problem from seeing the plane on youtube so I ordered a spare canopy that I can use to make a new master. I'll fill it with hydrocal and then sand off all the outsized framing, install proper size frames and pull a new canopy. In the mean time I will rebuild the sides of the pilot's canopy. I've already added most of the additional framing to support it. Here is what I did today.