stoat

Ok, weird. Is the carb on the back of the motor in line with the center line? Or does it stick out one side?
Sounds like you might have to pull the carb. If your fuel supply is sweet then it has to be inside the carb....[&:]

kwik

I have a friend who has the same problem with an FG-36 in a Tucano. He never fixed the problem.

It is a strange thing.Surely it must have to do with either gravity or angle of attack.

Regarding gravity, I think most possiblities has been adressed above?

Regarding angle of attack; Could it be that when inverted, the pressure in certain areas inside the cowling change?

Maybe far-fetched....pressure should be higher inside the cowl....one could imagine that the pressure change just outside the valve-membrane-hole
in the carb....shutting the valve....Nah....sounds too far fetched...or?

If it is the case, it would be fixed by silver soldering a small tube onto the hole and a tube into the fuse....but...sounds too fantastic...?[&o]

It has been mentioned by others that this tube is common practice among some modellers. I have never done it.

stoat

Kwik has a good point! Try the vent line to the fuse trick. Take the plate with the hole off the carb and solder on a nipple. Then run a piece of tubing through the firewall. Have done this to cure over pressure issues before.

flejter1

Nudger,


Just a few thoughts on the inverted lean issue,


1. Is Saito using a standard gas type carb that has a built in diaphram pump?

2. How do you have the tank vented?


It looks like the fuel cell is higher than the carb and if Saito has a weaker diaphram pump, when you go inverted ( fuel cell is now below the carb) and not having a presurized tank like on a glow fuel set up, you could be going lean because the pump is unable to pump enough fuel.

Just a thought.

Dirk

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

Great video! That pilot,cockpit,fg 57 look and sound great.The guy on the camera did a pro job.

kwik

Here is another theory, dont remember where I heard it;

Oil collecting in the valve covers. Go inverted, oil is sucked into cylinders a couple of beats.

Nudger, that video was great! Very good flying too. Thanks for sharing !

nudger

Thanks guys glad you like the vid.
also thanks for the input regarding the engine.The pipe into the fus ive tried and didnt work.Flejter 1 I have a 3 pipe tank,clunk straight to carb,another clunk for fill and drain,and a breather pipe to top of tank for overflow and venting.I under stand what you are saying about the tank but its pritty much central to the carb.


As ive said ive got a fg30 in a thunderbolt that does exactly the same,on the ground at 3/4 throttle you pick it up and rotate it 90 degrees the engine instantly stops,you start it again and rotate , somtimes it stops again or keeps going..weired or what.When im flying and say do a barrel roll the plane as to pass through 90 degrees and this is where it goes lean,but because its on the move most the time it keeps going ,but some times it stops[:@]
this is what worries me about the corsair if it stops on a roll[]

Nudge

stoat

Ok, thats just bloody weird! I'm out of ideas....

Ignition problem? Try rotating just the ignition module. (Now that will be a ***** to test!)

kwik

Could it be, that for some reason, the cylinders get more oil when inverted? Somehow?

I use 1:50 oil content. Using Bel Ray H1D racing oil. That means less oil content. Been using it for about ten years in all my Zenoah's,
figured I'll try it on these as well.

These engines are so different from the zenoah's that I am used to, so I don't know all the quirks yet... It will take years...

Maybe your L-needle is adjusted a bit higher than mine, so there is more oil in it? (Tends to collect more oil in the crank case) I tend to believe in the oil theory.

One of the cylinders spits more oil than the other. In the exhaust.

captainron

CRAP !!!!!

I can't get the video to load. I click on the link and You Tube just comes up says in can't load the video....Sorry about that....

WHAT'S UP WID DAT?

stoat

If it is an oil issue there should be a puff of smoke when it quits. Something to look for.

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

Recently had a buddy with a DLE 55 that suddenly began missing at full throttle. Turns out it was an ignition battery lead that had broke but the insulation didnt.It was making intermitent contact at full throttle.He found it by pulling on wires and connectors.You never know.

kwik

You are correct on that one! He He.

A typical Murphy happening. Can drive a man insane.

stoat

Ron, search youtube for dprobert11 and its one of the top videos.
Something wrong with the link....

Mr_Grump

For what it's worth I have a G26EI in a Super Stearman and have the same problem. I've never found the problem either. Replaced the carb. Run it on the ground and invert it without a problem. It's intermittent. Sometimes I can fly at the field without issue. Next time it'll go dead when I go inverted. Frustrating.



Mr G

Magnum RC

If it were my engine, I would test the theory of inconsistent fuel flow. If the fuel pulls away from the carb in a opposite g-force scenario, the solution would be to install an external fuel pump to keep pressure to the carb in all flight maneuvers. Sometimes, some engines are pretty snicky when it comes to changing the way they are fed. Just sayin

flejter1

Guys,

The FG 57 is a horizontal opposing twin cylinder engine, so it doesn't matter if it is horizontally inverted or up right, you are going to get the same results when it is running.

Nudger,

The problem is in the fuel delivery. I also run a 2 clunk with a vent pipe system so this is what I suspect. You have a stiff fuel line in your tank and when you roll over with fuel the 2 clunks are hitting, the tubing is stiff and not giving into the roll and are sucking air. I would also bet that depending on what side the carb clunk is on it might NOT lean out when you roll the plane the opposite direction. I suggest you get fresh fuel tygon tubing and replace your internal lines. Fuel tubing close to the spool is going to keep its bend from sitting because it is wound tighter. You can also cut the tygon tubing 1" or so from the stopper, place a 1-2" piece of copper tube or the tubing that comes with a stopper kit, and the remaining piece of tygon to the clunk on both pick ups. The solid tubing will help flop the clunks when doing manuevers, plus it will never fold over like the possibilities in a bigger tank. You can also test my theory by attatching a small heli header tank with your old plumbing. I bet when you turn the plane you will see air enter the header tank and WALLA!!! problem solved. If you go with the solid fuel tube in-line, make sure you saftey wire all ends so the tygon doesn't accidentally slip off in flight.

Hope it works or I guess I am full of crap!!

Good luck!!

Dirk aka Flejter1

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

Well guys, after reading and watching all of your posts about how you love your corsair, I finally have something to show for my efforts. It has taken me a while to secure a decent video camera and someone who could half way operate the thing. That all came together today. I now join the ranks of those who have deconstructed and reconstructed the ESM Corsair, and have the video to prove it. You will notice that I start off the video with a landing( just to prove I have successfully done so( my videographer forgot to take the camera off standby for the takeoff off the first flight). So the rest of the video is of the second flight. I must say that I found the plane a true joy to fly but would have enjoyed it even more if I didn't have to think about how I was going to land my brand new corsair with one wheel!!!
Here is the link to the 2nd flight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYLOV...are_video_user

stoat

Nice effort! Great first landing and good takeoff too, even minus the wheel.
Drill and tap up through the bottom of the leg and install a grub screw to hold the axle. Mine came out 3times even with loctite....
Not too much damage from the belly landing?

stoat

Well it seams I have spent all weekend working on the cockpit and it's about half done. I couldn't resist dry fitting it all in and take some photos...
Getting there. Just have to figure out how to do the sliding canopy now. Nudge? Would love some close ups ;-)
Bugger, can't seem to load images directly from my shoe phone. Standby 1.

stoat

kwik

That looks nice, Stoat!! How many flights do you have now on the Corsair?

And if it is easy for you to check;

What is the fabrication of the ignition module? Inquiring minds wants to know.

Here is an idea; Why not just use those two mounting holes I see there to screw a canopy rail
on top of the cockpit interior lip you have there? It would snugly camouflage the lip and give you the
rails for a sliding canopy....

Holy crap that cockpit looks good!!!

You know that soft edge on top of the instrument panel, that black tube....I used the insulation from a cable....
Did you use that as well?

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

Stoat: Thanks for the kind words. Wow, I can't belive you had the same problem. My friend suggested almost the same thing ; after I landed( only he said drill all the way thru and use wire or an expansion sleeve) Either way, this will NOT happen again. Well I used flaps to slow her down and didn't quite get them up soon enough before she bellied so one of the flap control arm link posts snapped off. I'm afraid it will impossible to fix without cutting off hinges , drilling them out , etc. One landing gear door a littled buggered up...thats it! I was lucky I was flying where I was. Really nice field with lots of bailout room.
Your cockpit is awesome. I like the padding around the dash. I may have to add that to mine. Make sure you really glue in those boxes and controls on the side panels( no paint under surface) The vibration was pretty brutal on mine and I have re- epoxied several. For an idea of how to do sliding cockpit, take a look at mine.
Take care and happy flying!
Marc
I have a local hobby shop that has miniature plastic building supplies( like I- beams , square channel tubing, etc.) I used that to make my rails. Then I put screws with plastic tabs that could go in slides on the back side of canopy cover. I made them to swivel since the angle changes from closed to open( if you use the preformed indentation on fuse side behind cockpit...which I did.) Not sure how accurate it is, but it works and its fairly clean. The paint will eventually wear off from sliding but that makes it look more natural anyway. I'm sure yours will look amaziing whatever you do.

captainron

MMFLYTIE,

DANG MAN, I was more inpressed with the belly "EMERCENCY" landing than the flight...........AWESOME WORK DUDE.............Thanks for sharing!!!

Stoat.........my other " DUDE CORSAIR DRIVER" Great work on the Cockpit.............We go some really talented pilots and builders on this forum...



I JUST ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS SH*T..........



CAPTAIN RON

flejter1

Capt Ron,


I agree with your statement of the quality of work, the guys on this thread are doing. As you can see from some of my pictures, I have stolen a few of their ideas for my plane. I thought I did a pretty good job on my Corsair so far, until I ran into this guys thread building a P-38 from a box of sticks. Now this guy is a true master builder and craftsman!!! If any of you guys have time, take a look at the link below and you are in for a real treat!!! This guy blows my mind on his quality and expertise. He cut all his own lumber, he didn't buy a laser cut kit. I think the only thing he purchased was the engines, props and landing gear, everthing else he fabricated.




http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11..._1/key_/tm.htm