mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

Well after several months of tweaking and trying to get someone with a good camera and a steady eye to grab some photos of my corsair, I finally got one. I think a video is on its way as well.

youmanskids

Thanks Marc, I did see your video, you kept your head and made a beautiful belly landing!! nice job. I,m still working on the landings...

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

BTW where is Siloam Springs, Ar?  My mom and dad live in Hot Springs Village.

Marc

youmanskids

Its a small town of 15K in the NW corner of Arkansas, right on the Oklahoma border. Hot Springs is way down in south Arkansas. I'm a transplant here about 18 yrs ago. Its a very nice small, peaceful, beautiful town.... and we have an awesome RC airport!! Roger

mmflytie

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Good for you!!

Flyright

My Feedback: (92)

I've just started building the KMP/ESM Corsair and am installing a set of Century Jet retracts in the wing. I noticed that the pivot link is interfering with the top of the wing. I think I'm limited to 2 choices 1). shim the gear up about 1/8" and then build up the wing to match the gear doors or 2). cut a clearence hole in the top of the wing and attach a blister on the top of the wing to hide the link.

Has anyone else installed the CJR retracts and what have you done to get yours to fit?

Thanks

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Can you post a pic of your issue so we can all have an idea of your issue? I've use CJ retracts on another warbird and in my oppionion they dont fit well into arfs for some reason. Maybe they need to do a bit more reaserch and development... Juast my oppionon. Inaddition the monting flanges are made of soft alluminum that tends to become deformed with a few hard landings..... Several of us have used the ESM retracts and have all needed to trim the retract area in various places in order for them to sit properly.... Back to your point post a pic so we can help....

Mr_Grump

Hey Gents

I don't see the metric thread size anywhere for the FG-57's exhaust port. Can someone advise?

Thanks

Mr G

Flyright

My Feedback: (92)

Here are some pictures
From left to right the rotation linkage, interference causes one side to seat ~1/8" above the gear mounts and lastly, The contact point behind the leading edge inside the wing.
thanks

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

They didn't really give you much to work with. The portion you cut out was a bit more than the ESM retracts? Does that rotatim part hit the gear door when it's either open or closed . If it does closed you could mold some new doors with fiberglass cloth and resin. Yould be able to shape that corner so there is proper clearance. There are photos in the gallery of another person molding new doors for a better fit....

Flyright

My Feedback: (92)

Thanks for the reply Midastouch,

No, there is not a lot of room for the Century Jet Retracts in the existing opening. If it weren't for this link, they would fit nice and snug. Think I'll play with making some blisters on the top of the wing since i would have to shim the gear up over 1/8" inch for clearance. I think making new doors, etc would end up looking worse than 2 strategically placed blisters. I'll report in with progress this weekend when I get a few minutes.

Flyright

My Feedback: (92)

Interesting bit of information on Century Jet retracts. There are apparently two different retracts for the KMP corsair. One is for the "pre" 2008 kits while there is another one for 2008 kits.

“pre� 2008 KMP Corsairs call for Part number 33320 ( not the ones I have )
2008 KMP Corsairs call for Part number 34420 ( no picture available)

I might have the wrong retracts for the kit I have........

flytaildragger

My Feedback: (8)

The picture you are showing there Is for the 74 inch Wing KMP Corsair Not the 50 cc 86 wing. There were 2 versions of the 74 inch Corsair when KMP was doing it.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Prior to replying to a recent post I have not been on this forum for a bit. I took a liol break to finish a flite metal job on my P47. I'm just getting back to my corsair project. I'm sadden to hear the news about the passing of Stoat. He was very instrumental and helpful with my project. After loosing my 74 corsair His DLE 111 cosair inspired me to buy and build the 85. May he rest in peace and may good bless his family. Thanks for your helpful words and countless emails......

Mr_Grump

How have you all balanced your Corsair? I've tried using the search tool in the forum but, as you know, it leaves a lot to be desired.

I have the large EZ Balancer. It isn't wide enough to get to the manuals suggested balance point. It supports the model just inside the retracts near the base of the downward slope of the center wing section. My initial balance attempt is as follows. Please let me know if you think this makes sense.

I'm using steel powder, purchased here on RCUniverse, and intend to place it in the front of the cowl. I inverted the plane and centered it between the EZ Balancers uprights. I set the balance point at the suggested 135mm from the leading edge. Using the powder was easy. I placed enough powder in a plastic bag just behind the prop hub at the cowl opening. It required 1lb 8oz to balance.

Thoughts? How did you balance yours?

Thanks

Mr G

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

I have yet to balance my corsair unfortunately. I made a silly miscalculation during my build. I didn't realize I'd need more channels than my sd10g could offer. The gear doors use 4 channels alone in order to properly adjust the gear door sync. So now I'm waiting on a new Spektrum DX18 to finish my setup.But you do have the right Idea i'd do exactly the same thing.There are a few things you should also consider as well. Steel powder works well but the added weight to the cowl can have its drawbacks. I've used it on my 74 Corsair (RIP) with success. When I used it on my Sea Fury the vibration and the weight of the cowl caused to mounting holes to widen where the screws were.. . The entire cowl nearly slipped over the mounting screws during my second flight due to vibration. I had to replace the cowl and remount a different type of nose weight..... I believe several people have been able to use it with success on the larger corsair according to this thread.

One other thing to consider.... Now that you have the correct weight calculated be mindful that when adding the epoxy to the powder it adds weight. So you could end up with close to 2 pounds after you mix the two together. So basically be sure to weigh the powder and epoxy as you mix it. It's nearly impossible to remove it once it hardens lol. Also don't try mixing it all in one batch. It can get pretty messy if you're not careful...... It doesn't hurt to completely tape and cover the cowls outer side for protection.....

You're on the right track.... GOOD LUCK

Mr_Grump

Thanks Midas. I appreciate the advice. I've got a good digital scale and will be sure to mix and weigh as you suggested. One thing I noticed is balance changes a lot depending on gear position. I'm balancing mine with the gear up. It'll definitely be nose heavy with the gear down. I'm hoping flaps will offset that some.

I've reinforced the cowl ring with fiberglass and may look at some sort of bushing for the cowl mounting screws after your comments. I'm using the Saito FG-57T so vibration will be reduced a bit.

I had the DX-8 but quickly realized I needed the DX-18. So far it's great. I had an 11Z Futaba. It's a fine radio as well but programming it required a lot of research. I got the DX-18 and a 12ch receiver. I'm using all 12ch thanks to the 18's firmware upgrade. My RX configuration is as follows:

Aux 7 (X+2) = Tail wheel
Aux 6 (X+1) = Engine Choke
Aux 5 Gear (to sequencer)
Aux 4 L Elev
Aux 3 Engine Kill
Aux 2 R Flap
Aux 1 L Ail
Gear L Flap
Rud Rud
Elev R Elev
Ail R Ail
Thro Thro

Not grouped very logical but it works. I'm also using the sequencer from Down and Locked so that will take care of the doors.

Thanks again for the reply

patfairlane

My Feedback: (170)

I KNOW SOME OF YOU GUYS WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THAT A COMPANY CALLED ....ARF PROS OUT OF NORTH VENICE FLORIDA HAS 3 50CC ESM COWLS FOR SALE....I GOT THE FORTH....I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR MONTHS....THE GAL THAT RUNS THE PLACE ALWAYS LOOKED FOR THE GIRL ON THE COWL...SHE DIDNT REALIZE THAT IT WAS LEFT OFF ....THEIR PHONE NUMBER IS...941-412-4138.....MADE MY DAY.......

Mr_Grump

THanks for the post Pat. They now have only 2 left :-) Talk about perfect timing....

Mr G

youmanskids

hey Mr Grump, I used steel BBs in epoxy put in the cowl, used 1 lb 4 oz for ballance. The cowl held fine, I did epoxy steel washers inside each mounting hole to prevent it from widening out the mounting holes, and it worked great, no problems. I also ballanced with the gear up using the old finger-on-the-mark technique, right at the wing bend, in the inverted position. Roger

Mr_Grump

Thanks Roger. Mine needed 1lb 9oz and the steel powder would have worked great. Flowed around the cowl nice and even. The issue was I didn't have enough of a trough depth. Ran out over the sides so I had a mess. Cleaned it up ok but since I didn't get the whole batch into the front, I now have to add more weight further back, over the engine in the ignition module/battery box above the engine. Could have been worse I guess. If I had noticed, I could have built up a deeper place for all the gunk.

I'm going to do something similar with the washers. Just for that warm and fuzzy feeling. I also glassed the cowl ring in place.

Thanks for the reply

Lane

Mr_Grump

If anyone hasn't mounted their cowl ring, I'd sure appreciate it if you'd trace the outline and send it to me. I'll reimburse postage of course...

Thanks

Mr G

alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

Mr G,

PM me your mailing address and I will send you a trace of the "spare" I have. I used 1/4" hardwood plywood for my actual ring and glassed it to the cowl. The first cowl ring was not strong enough to handle the combination of my weighted cowl and a couple of rough field nose overs.

Jim

Mr_Grump

I had a so-so landing this afternoon and the ESM retracts rotated about 90 degrees. I hit harder than planned the first touchdown. They rotated 90 degrees and the plane flipped over on it's back as a result.

This is the second time this has happened. Thankfully, with little damage. I took the retracts out the first time, removed screws and used thread locker. It didn't prevent it from happening again.

Have any of you had this issue and how did you resolve it?

Thanks

Mr G

alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

Mr. G,

I ultimately replaced my retracts with Robarts because of a similar problem. Mine weren't rotating 90 degrees, but had developed so much slop in the rotating mechanism that they would wobble between toe-in and toe-out probably 45 to 60 degrees, resulting in several nose-overs. The Robarts required some slight mods to mount them, but have been rock solid even with some less than stellar landings.

Jim