ESM 50cc Corsair
04-12-2014, 02:30 PM
#2176
04-12-2014, 03:17 PM
#2177
My Feedback: (1)
Well guys, after a good many flights its time to say goodbye to my Troybuilt Corsair. She veered off the runway and I made a bad decision to go ahead with the takeoff. Everything would have been fine except I didn't see the pilot gate in my peripheral vision, slamming full speed into it while still on the ground. It caught the wing , causing it to flip and did major damage to fuse , etc. I contemplated a long time on fixing it but since I don't have my workshp anymore, and no place to work on it I decided to scrap it for parts. So if any of you guys are in the building phase I have a couple of great deals for you. I have a "best Pilot" pappy pilot, 5 giant scale aircraft servos and Robart 4 1/2" wheel, retracts set which have been converted to electric by down and locked with the sequencer module.
Pilot= $50. All servos for $100( a couple are about that each), and the retract set for $150. ( I have almost $500.00 in them). None of these items were damaged in the crassh and all work just fine. my email is [email protected] and my number is 864-680-5601 I am located in central florida but will be moving to Nashville very soon.
I hope pictures turn out
Marc
Pilot= $50. All servos for $100( a couple are about that each), and the retract set for $150. ( I have almost $500.00 in them). None of these items were damaged in the crassh and all work just fine. my email is [email protected] and my number is 864-680-5601 I am located in central florida but will be moving to Nashville very soon.
I hope pictures turn out
Marc
04-12-2014, 04:23 PM
#2178
My Feedback: (49)
Kwik, there is a guy by the handle of Remklep who lives n the Netherlands. I am fairly sure he is a pilot for KLM. Maybe he can drag one back and ship it to you from there. Look at Page 16 of Vic's P-51A/B build thread on RCSB. Remklep's post is there.
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...59&PN=2&TPN=16
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...59&PN=2&TPN=16
04-12-2014, 04:39 PM
#2179
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Those whistles looks like a great idea! But will the sound be generated inside the wing now?
Here is a picture of how it turned out with a 0.01 inch fiber-glass sheet on top of the inner part of the center section.
I hope it will prevent the buckling of the skin;
I buy 0.01 inch sheets from here;
http://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Sheets.html
According to the guys at RCSB ; For a plane already buildt in balsa, one can use 0.007 inch glued to the balsa instead of glassing.
The advantage is no sanding afterwards. Ready to paint!.
Something to consider for the Top Flite Monokote ARF's.
Here is a picture of how it turned out with a 0.01 inch fiber-glass sheet on top of the inner part of the center section.
I hope it will prevent the buckling of the skin;
I buy 0.01 inch sheets from here;
http://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Sheets.html
According to the guys at RCSB ; For a plane already buildt in balsa, one can use 0.007 inch glued to the balsa instead of glassing.
The advantage is no sanding afterwards. Ready to paint!.
Something to consider for the Top Flite Monokote ARF's.
http://www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/~mickreev/Access/accessories.htm
04-14-2014, 07:26 AM
#2180
My Feedback: (49)
In the mean while I ordered a prop hub from Tru-Turn. This is a "A" style hub and isn't all that pricey. Very heavy construction. Needs a shaft adapter for the mounting bolt I will get from Dave Brown spinners. Saito could have drilled and tapped the prop shaft for a spinner setup, but left it solid.
04-14-2014, 07:41 AM
#2181
You can buy the set-up through Horizon as an accessory for the H9 Corsair. It comes with the Saito adapter for the FG-57. I'm not sure if that's the same shaft as the FG-84.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...r-TRUTTH1500AG
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...r-TRUTTH1500AG
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...r-TRUTTH1500AG
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...r-TRUTTH1500AG
In the mean while I ordered a prop hub from Tru-Turn. This is a "A" style hub and isn't all that pricey. Very heavy construction. Needs a shaft adapter for the mounting bolt I will get from Dave Brown spinners. Saito could have drilled and tapped the prop shaft for a spinner setup, but left it solid.
04-14-2014, 09:30 AM
#2182
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nixa, MO
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I just tried to order this airframe from ARFPros. The price on their website is $669.00. Upon ordering over the phone she attempted to tell me it was $699.00 and according to her website I'm suppose to call for pricing. Well folks, that's called bait and switch. Before I'll pay a business owner like that full price I'll look elsewhere to buy it. They just lost any business from me.
04-14-2014, 10:03 AM
#2184
My Feedback: (49)
Fly2xs, that's the same thing as Tru-Turn and same pricing. I might have saved a couple of bucks by not paying TX sales tax, but about the same price overall. Shaft washer on the Tru-Turn was 9mm and I had to open it up to 10mm with my prop reamer on the drill press. Minor work.
I post things like this prop hub and all the details of the F4U, not because I am "showing off" but for info to those who want to know what's out there and how to do certain things that are not explained elsewhere. So, these threads are tutorials in my opinion.
SDCranford, ARF Pros have shown me that they cannot get a simple order out without a major screw up. I also heard they cannot match TBM's pricing on ESM planes and are getting out of the ESM business. Not sure how correct that info is however.
I post things like this prop hub and all the details of the F4U, not because I am "showing off" but for info to those who want to know what's out there and how to do certain things that are not explained elsewhere. So, these threads are tutorials in my opinion.
SDCranford, ARF Pros have shown me that they cannot get a simple order out without a major screw up. I also heard they cannot match TBM's pricing on ESM planes and are getting out of the ESM business. Not sure how correct that info is however.
04-14-2014, 04:50 PM
#2186
I just tried to order this airframe from ARFPros. The price on their website is $669.00. Upon ordering over the phone she attempted to tell me it was $699.00 and according to her website I'm suppose to call for pricing. Well folks, that's called bait and switch. Before I'll pay a business owner like that full price I'll look elsewhere to buy it. They just lost any business from me.
04-19-2014, 04:44 PM
#2192
My Feedback: (49)
aghost, thanks, glad you like.
It's a lot like Monokoting. If you take your time and do each piece painstakingly correct and don't think about what's ahead of you and how many hours to go you have, then you can do good work. Each little piece of tape and masking paper is very important to get just right. So far, I only have one small blow thru from the sea blue paint right on the tail cone. So, it's easy if you do the hard part correctly. Ha
That being said, I kinda wish I had left the Corsair the way it came out of the box. Even after painting, it takes up to a month for this latex to really get dried. After one week, it's pretty tough, but takes a while longer than that. To install the rub on's it has to be pretty dang hard dried. I'll be lucky to fly this in mid to late June. After all this painting, I cannot afford to rush it and ruin all my work.
I will say that if anyone is doing some painting, by all means BUY the $12 a roll 3M blue 1/4" plastic striping tape from the auto-body paint store. It's worth every penny. And follow that edge with BLUE masking tape to make the line wider for the masking paper. DO NOT use the regular vanilla/beige colored masking tape on BARE LATEX PAINT. It will pull it right up! Always use the BLUE tape on recently painted latex. I used some regular masking tape on the white elevator just to protect a small area and it pulled the white paint right up about an hour later. It wasn't even pressed down hard either. So, won't make that mistake again. I used that blue 3M striping tape on every color dividing line on the Corsair. Wow, it's hard to believe how great it works.
After looking at the anti-glare panel for several days, I may repaint it. It shouldn't be so tapered toward the front end. Also, the "satin" finish is more glossy than flat. So, will do it over. Hate to do that, but when something eats on ya, you just gotta fix it. Ha. I was not taking a step back when I laid out the lines. Too close to the work. Oh well, just about an hour and a half to redo it.
It's a lot like Monokoting. If you take your time and do each piece painstakingly correct and don't think about what's ahead of you and how many hours to go you have, then you can do good work. Each little piece of tape and masking paper is very important to get just right. So far, I only have one small blow thru from the sea blue paint right on the tail cone. So, it's easy if you do the hard part correctly. Ha
That being said, I kinda wish I had left the Corsair the way it came out of the box. Even after painting, it takes up to a month for this latex to really get dried. After one week, it's pretty tough, but takes a while longer than that. To install the rub on's it has to be pretty dang hard dried. I'll be lucky to fly this in mid to late June. After all this painting, I cannot afford to rush it and ruin all my work.
I will say that if anyone is doing some painting, by all means BUY the $12 a roll 3M blue 1/4" plastic striping tape from the auto-body paint store. It's worth every penny. And follow that edge with BLUE masking tape to make the line wider for the masking paper. DO NOT use the regular vanilla/beige colored masking tape on BARE LATEX PAINT. It will pull it right up! Always use the BLUE tape on recently painted latex. I used some regular masking tape on the white elevator just to protect a small area and it pulled the white paint right up about an hour later. It wasn't even pressed down hard either. So, won't make that mistake again. I used that blue 3M striping tape on every color dividing line on the Corsair. Wow, it's hard to believe how great it works.
After looking at the anti-glare panel for several days, I may repaint it. It shouldn't be so tapered toward the front end. Also, the "satin" finish is more glossy than flat. So, will do it over. Hate to do that, but when something eats on ya, you just gotta fix it. Ha. I was not taking a step back when I laid out the lines. Too close to the work. Oh well, just about an hour and a half to redo it.
Last edited by LBJ; 04-21-2014 at 05:18 AM.
04-22-2014, 03:29 PM
#2194
aghost, thanks, glad you like.
It's a lot like Monokoting. If you take your time and do each piece painstakingly correct and don't think about what's ahead of you and how many hours to go you have, then you can do good work. Each little piece of tape and masking paper is very important to get just right. So far, I only have one small blow thru from the sea blue paint right on the tail cone. So, it's easy if you do the hard part correctly. Ha
That being said, I kinda wish I had left the Corsair the way it came out of the box. Even after painting, it takes up to a month for this latex to really get dried. After one week, it's pretty tough, but takes a while longer than that. To install the rub on's it has to be pretty dang hard dried. I'll be lucky to fly this in mid to late June. After all this painting, I cannot afford to rush it and ruin all my work.
I will say that if anyone is doing some painting, by all means BUY the $12 a roll 3M blue 1/4" plastic striping tape from the auto-body paint store. It's worth every penny. And follow that edge with BLUE masking tape to make the line wider for the masking paper. DO NOT use the regular vanilla/beige colored masking tape on BARE LATEX PAINT. It will pull it right up! Always use the BLUE tape on recently painted latex. I used some regular masking tape on the white elevator just to protect a small area and it pulled the white paint right up about an hour later. It wasn't even pressed down hard either. So, won't make that mistake again. I used that blue 3M striping tape on every color dividing line on the Corsair. Wow, it's hard to believe how great it works.
After looking at the anti-glare panel for several days, I may repaint it. It shouldn't be so tapered toward the front end. Also, the "satin" finish is more glossy than flat. So, will do it over. Hate to do that, but when something eats on ya, you just gotta fix it. Ha. I was not taking a step back when I laid out the lines. Too close to the work. Oh well, just about an hour and a half to redo it.
It's a lot like Monokoting. If you take your time and do each piece painstakingly correct and don't think about what's ahead of you and how many hours to go you have, then you can do good work. Each little piece of tape and masking paper is very important to get just right. So far, I only have one small blow thru from the sea blue paint right on the tail cone. So, it's easy if you do the hard part correctly. Ha
That being said, I kinda wish I had left the Corsair the way it came out of the box. Even after painting, it takes up to a month for this latex to really get dried. After one week, it's pretty tough, but takes a while longer than that. To install the rub on's it has to be pretty dang hard dried. I'll be lucky to fly this in mid to late June. After all this painting, I cannot afford to rush it and ruin all my work.
I will say that if anyone is doing some painting, by all means BUY the $12 a roll 3M blue 1/4" plastic striping tape from the auto-body paint store. It's worth every penny. And follow that edge with BLUE masking tape to make the line wider for the masking paper. DO NOT use the regular vanilla/beige colored masking tape on BARE LATEX PAINT. It will pull it right up! Always use the BLUE tape on recently painted latex. I used some regular masking tape on the white elevator just to protect a small area and it pulled the white paint right up about an hour later. It wasn't even pressed down hard either. So, won't make that mistake again. I used that blue 3M striping tape on every color dividing line on the Corsair. Wow, it's hard to believe how great it works.
After looking at the anti-glare panel for several days, I may repaint it. It shouldn't be so tapered toward the front end. Also, the "satin" finish is more glossy than flat. So, will do it over. Hate to do that, but when something eats on ya, you just gotta fix it. Ha. I was not taking a step back when I laid out the lines. Too close to the work. Oh well, just about an hour and a half to redo it.
04-22-2014, 03:36 PM
#2195
My Feedback: (49)
jimkron, I used 4 ought steel wool today. It leaves a steel residue color on the light colors. Will only be good on the dark blue and black. May have to use some fine scothbrite or 400 grit wet or dry.
Back on the paint. Got the Orange band on yesterday. The fuselage is pretty much done on paint.
Got the outer wing panels primered with gray today. Had some entertainment watching the Blue Angels do a practice show for this weekend. They were flying for about 2 hours. Never seen them do so much on one day. All over the sky.
After I got home, the Blues flew another 2 hours practice. Wow. At one point the flew DIRECTLY over my Apt! At 200 FEET! My ears rang for an hour. I was outside watching them and it was really cool seeing them on the deck at 400 mph. Lots of smash too. That was better than watching at the base. Three more days of Blue Angels to go.
Back on the paint. Got the Orange band on yesterday. The fuselage is pretty much done on paint.
Got the outer wing panels primered with gray today. Had some entertainment watching the Blue Angels do a practice show for this weekend. They were flying for about 2 hours. Never seen them do so much on one day. All over the sky.
After I got home, the Blues flew another 2 hours practice. Wow. At one point the flew DIRECTLY over my Apt! At 200 FEET! My ears rang for an hour. I was outside watching them and it was really cool seeing them on the deck at 400 mph. Lots of smash too. That was better than watching at the base. Three more days of Blue Angels to go.
Last edited by LBJ; 04-24-2014 at 08:02 PM.
04-26-2014, 02:53 AM
#2196
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Gday fellas,
some questions concerning the ESM Elect Retracts.
I brought a used Corsair from a bloke, very new, only one flight. He says he got it from the Aussie importer about 12 months ago.
What I need to know is. How do you tell if the retracts are the V2 or V3 versions of the elect retract? Are they meant to have a controller board? He said he just plugged them in to his rx and off the went, and controlled speed with servo slow function. I will be running a separate battery for them thru a y lead.
The trouble starts here, I pugged them in and nothing, except for the servo leads getting hot! I promptly unplugged it before I seen magic white smoke...
I cant understand why this happened, I set em up as I was told to. Something aint right. Only diff from his set up was, I used Spektrum/JR, he is using Hitec. Should matter a damn.
Ive set up plenty of the Eflite gears and all work as per explanation. But properly.
Any one with experience with these, can you please explain. Of coarse there are no instruction...
Cheers
Matt
some questions concerning the ESM Elect Retracts.
I brought a used Corsair from a bloke, very new, only one flight. He says he got it from the Aussie importer about 12 months ago.
What I need to know is. How do you tell if the retracts are the V2 or V3 versions of the elect retract? Are they meant to have a controller board? He said he just plugged them in to his rx and off the went, and controlled speed with servo slow function. I will be running a separate battery for them thru a y lead.
The trouble starts here, I pugged them in and nothing, except for the servo leads getting hot! I promptly unplugged it before I seen magic white smoke...
I cant understand why this happened, I set em up as I was told to. Something aint right. Only diff from his set up was, I used Spektrum/JR, he is using Hitec. Should matter a damn.
Ive set up plenty of the Eflite gears and all work as per explanation. But properly.
Any one with experience with these, can you please explain. Of coarse there are no instruction...
Cheers
Matt
04-26-2014, 08:21 PM
#2199
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Thanks fellas, on closer inspection, they are the G 3 gear. Will require a control box. I'll get one sent to me from the Aussie importer.
Very usefull thread this, I'v a Saito FG 84 ready to go in her, will get the Tys cockpit, might do full lights. Whats the best retractable tail wheel for this plane?
Cheers
Matt
Very usefull thread this, I'v a Saito FG 84 ready to go in her, will get the Tys cockpit, might do full lights. Whats the best retractable tail wheel for this plane?
Cheers
Matt
04-27-2014, 01:40 AM
#2200
Horizon Hobby sells a very scale one for $49(us) that fits perfectly. I'm having mine converted by Down and Lock to electric. How is the workmanship on your wing centersection? Any fiberglass areas that are thin or rippled?
jim
jim