alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

Hill,

That was my concern, thus the reason to glue them into the outer wing. Plus it works as a great handle to hold on to while manhandling the wings to get them together/apart. I also soaked the wing joiner as well as the wood pocket in the center wing extensively in CA in an attempt to harden them.

I did put in the fiber tabs and do put the bolt in everytime I fly. Its not that this little bolt is very strong, but I wanted to make sure the wings can't move around at all (up/down and/or in/out).

The extra "bolt" I added is in the wheel well and uses a blind nut in the outer wing. This allows me to really pull the inner and outer wing tight against each other.

Time will tell how all this holds up. Why in the world they went away from the aluminum tube (commonly used on 3D planes and jets) is beyond me. Cost savings?

Jim

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

No doubt cost savings.


Thanks for the info. Once I get this hysol in my hands, I'll probably hysol the whole wing together and get some more of that "peace of mind".

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

Jim , I'm with you on that one. I couldn't believe it when my kit arrived with the wooden spar. The second bolt in the rear of the wheel bay is the very least one should do. The spar is strong and may provide just as much vertical support for the outboard wing as the aluminum tube but with the single bolt in the fiberglass tab, I could grab the wing and move it front and back quite a bit. With the second bolt in the rear of the wing thru the wheel bay, it really makes it rock solid although I would never consider doing 100mph with this corsair( first of all thats not scale) I have a DA 60 and it pulls just fine . I think sometimes we tend to forget that we are building and flying some % scale size planes but the power plants used are sometimes well out of scale range and therefore the load and stress put on the surfaces during certain "nonscale" maneuvers may well exceed what the construction can handle. Top speed of a Corsair was about 400mph. Maybe my math is not exact ( I'm sure there are those on here that have this already figured out) but 1/5 of the original size plane should go 1/5 of the speed. That would give you roughly 80mph top speed, crusing about half that! I'm just sayin! Hill202 , I'll see if I can get a photo of that bolt location for you.
Marc

flejter1

I think they went away with the wing tube because the retract strut hits and the gear doesn't completely retract into the wheel wells and the doors hit the gear. I can only assume that is why they made the change. They could have went with a little smaller aluminum tube or even 2 small carbon fiber rods to give a better clearance in my opinion.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Have you sorted out the scale exhaust.......

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Yeah, 2 DLE pipes sticking out of the cowl

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

has anyone looked at the mintor 75cc twin??
4.9 lbs
236mm plug cap to plug cap.
what is the inside of the cowl dimension?

tony

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

yeah, but that 280 isn't where the cylinders would be.

tony

Orion09

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Tony. Sorry I coundnt give you the measurment exactly where your cylinders would be.

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

Take a look at topdawg aviation. There is even a 2-into-1 header can combo which should help with nose weight. Question for people who have the airframe, will it fit???

Tony

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I don't know what the deal is but everything I order with this plane, including the plane, has been delivered to the wrong address. Would you believe my hysol order was delivered to someone in Utah...[:@]

It's going to be difficult to knock on his door

stoat

Chaps, where the cylinders are is 245mm internal measurement.

Spent the last week or so fitting a new rear canopy to the old girl...[:-] Was sorely pissed when I found my spare was very milky.[:@] Got hold of the suppliers and found out mine was one of the better ones. Another example of ESM stuffing up coz they just dont care....[&o]

Anyhew, got it all fitted and detailed and is better than the last one (minus the milkiness) and mounted it up finally tonight. Added 2 pins at the front to positively lock the two halves together. Shouldn't blow off now!. Fingers crossed for some good weather in the next week as I am taking it up to a scale comp at the end of the month...









BE careful with the ply spar if you are doing a 3 piece wing. I did a similar mod to an ESM Trojan last year and used the supplied spar joiner. Over time and use it cracked vertically where the join is even though I soaked it in CA. This was caused by flexing the wing ford and back a little when it was being pulled apart. I ended up replacing the joiner with an aluminum one. Made me feel much better about the strength and longevity of the plane.

Cheers
Brett

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

wow, with 245mm of width, it is close to fitting the 75cc twin!

would just depend on the left offset to compensate for right thrust.

is there room to squeeze the canister muffler in there up front?

tony

Tone Price

@stoat Looking great! I believe ESM cares but who knows, maybe some glue from another part was lying around when they finished it. I'd say "not caring about QC" is their real problem like most Chinese companies.

stoat

Tony, yep if the cans from the 111 fit in then the ones from the 75 should fit easily.

Tone, you may be right, but I do find it a shame that ESM don't spend a little more time and care with their kits. It would take very little to make them world class. Maybe I should apply for a job with them......

splinterz25

Looks really good toast besides the milky glazing! your weather should be starting to get better now, were just starting to frost here now.

Bruce

stoat

Bruce, yep we have the wet and wild weather at the moment. Typical spring! Getting warmer and daylight saving has started so it light until 8pm. Thursday night flying will kick off this week too. Love the summers here as long as the wind stays away.
I expect those of you above the equator are starting to look towards more serious building now. Hopefully we will get a couple of new Corsairs started on this thread to keep it alive. There is so much knowledge here and the kit is such a great flier that it is a brilliant resource for anyone building one of these.

Cheers
Brett (Toast, Stoat, Toasttsaot, and TheotherBrett)

kwik

Today I started up the FG-57 after putting in a new original Saito ( RcExl) ignition.

It fired up easily, and run just fine. Good to hear the sound of a proper engine again.

A picture from working on the Corsair below.

I would like to promote the starter from Hobbyking I used to start the FG-57;

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16197

( Using 2xA123 batteries in it)

The two A123 batteries gives approx 13.2 Volts, and I have mounted 2 banana-plugs on it.

So, the A123 batteries in the starter is now my battery-box for my compressor and gasoline pump
when I'm on the airfield.

They can be recharged in only a few minutes from the car via a charger.

The FG-57, just like any other gasoline engine can somethimes be difficult to hand-start if its been
"resting" for a few weeks. So the starter is nice to have for the first start. After that it is easy to hand-start.

stoat

Kwik, that starter looks pretty good. Will have to keep it in mind for when my old one dies...

greggld55

Hey guys great thread lots of needed info on the ESM 50cc Corsair build, I have a question Post #134 I believe it was Growler84 who showed the plywood motor mount. Im useing the DLE 55cc motor just wondering which engine standoffs were used with that motor and motor mount thanks for your help....

**********Got the answer guys thanks for your help************

vatechguy3

My Feedback: (11)

can you post the answer???

tony

greggld55

The ones that came with the DLE 55 are 2 5/8in +or- will work just fine hope that helps you...

kwik

Hopefully it ( the starter) is not on backorder by then.

Back to the stab "problem".

Mine developed a considerable movement vertically during the 45 flights it has by now.

About 3-4 mm up-down at the tip. ( 3-4 mm = approx 1/6 inch ) I began to be nervous that the whole stab could start oscillating in a dive and just rip off.

So...what to do.

First i put vaseline on the section of the alutube inside the fuselage. Then put on strips of fiberglass, and glassed it.
So now the alutube is fixed good inside the fuse. ( But still removable, because of the vaseline)

That didnt help. Slop still there. In other words; The tubes inside the stab has wiggled themselves some room, inside the stabs.

Arrgghh! Didnt want to cut open the stabs to fix that...What to do? Solution; Drilled two holes under the stab and injected polyurethane foam....

Now is stiff and fine again. Hope it will last.

youmanskids

Yes, I would very much appreciate some video of your weathering and detailing tips
I just got my ESM 50cc last week and have read this thead from the start. Tons of great help!
I have a 60cc DLE twin and will try and make it fit without cutting out for the plug boots.
Also considering internalizing the aileron linkage as well as using your amazing weathering techniques
if you have the time to put a tutorial video together for us. Thanks a lot for all you guys' info and help. Roger