stoat

Ok, cool. I will be doing the underside this week so will get the camera running. Hopefully you will get some info from it.

stoat

Well, as I seemed to have issues getting my finger pulled out far enough to order the williams bros radial, I figured I would try to make the stock kit one useable. Long weekend with rain so why not?


Magnito casings. There seem to be varoius different version so this is my take on some based on some rough photos. You can see the difference between weathered and plain here.




Some cutting and a little dry brushing and its a start...


Ignition harness made from solder, tape and m2.6 nuts. Cheap easy and effective.


Starting to look like an engine. I only have about 35mm room between the motor and cowling so the crankcase cant be as long as it should. Oh well, it aint really super scale anyway...

stoat

Motor finished and bolted on. Pretty pleased with the final result even if the mags are waaaay too far forward.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

My new toy finally arrived!!! It's time to come out and play with the big boys. Stoat thanks for letting me pick your brain with all of my questions. This thread has also been really helpfull. I nearly have my plan togehter for my build. I'm going the DLE 111 route. I'm contemplting doing something else but I'm not quite sure yet stay tuned.....
What's this brotherhood about?






"CRASH AND BURN THEN REBUILD AND LEARN!!!!""

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

The motor looks great Stoat!

kwik

Congratulations!

Regaring the 111 route; Remember that there are other 2 stroke boxers out there, that will not have spark-plugs
sticking out through the cowling.

Of course, if you don't care whether stuff sticks out or not, then there is no problem!

However, if you do, there are other 2 stroke boxers that will drag this plane around quite well.

Have you noticed that with radial engine plane like this, or a Typhoon, or any other plane with such a big nose,
you seem to be able to get a certain speed, and then, from then on, when you apply more power, you don't get much
more. So it is a matter of getting a big enough engine to overcome these drag forces, and from then on, all is well.

I would think that since a powerful 55cc single twostroke is strong enough, or the 57cc fourstroke from Saito,
then a ... 70cc twin twostroke would be okay....

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Thanks Kwik, Also thanks for the suggestions. I'm not too concerned about the plug caps. I took a few things into consideration before making the choice. When I built my 74 corsair and used a 55DLE guys thought I was going overboard and killing the scale of the plane. My thoughs were, I'd rather throttle back than wish I would have bought more engine. Also I had not seen anyone else do it st that point. lol The old guys at the field frowned everytime that thing buzzed because it wasnt scale but they were impressed by the performance and power. : ) After I finished the plane it flew with authority like a beast.... It's good to see several guys have done the DLE 111 as well as other engines. It helps knowing it can be done. It cuts some of the guess work out of the equation.

stoat

Yep, its the equasion of deminishing returns. I regularly fly with a couple of 80 in P47's with DA50's in them. The corsair isnt a lot faster until you point the nose up, then it just keeps boring a hole in the sky where as the P47's slow down and stop. As a case in point, years ago I built a World models P47 (73in) with an Evo 26cc in the front. The local fliers tonld me I was silly over powering it like that. No need for anything more than a 90 glo... Flew like a charm and was clocked on a radar gun at 183kmh. I then removed the engine for use in another project so replaced it with a CRRC 50 as it was lying around and fit. The local guys had kittens! A letter was even sent to the committie of the local club! Long story short, it flew very well, had a brilliant climb reat and was clocked at - wait for it - 192 kmh! So double the power for a 9 kmh increase in speed! After the comotion died down most of the guys admitted it was a very nice plane and looked and sounded great when flown in a scale manner.

I still have the old 47' - over 300 flights logged now. I did have to replace a spark plug 2 years ago, but apart from that it has been a super reliable model.

kwik

He He! Yes, it sure helps to have some spare power. Normally I have big problems finding an
engine that fits within a cowling, and is strong enough.

Being able to climb better is a BIG plus!

And spreading some panic among the "oldies" is fun too! ( Not that I am able to, but I see the fun in it ! [&:])

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

That's all us adrenaline junkies want to know is how much room we have in the cowl and what can we stuff inside of it...lol

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

These gear doors are more challenging than I anticipated.... Trying to adjust the linkage and the servo travel for all servos is a headache. Are guys using more than one chanel to control the door servos or are they connected to the same chanel?

stoat

Same channel for all 4 servos. The trick is to bend a "V" into each push rod so you can adjust how far each door closes precisely by opening or closing the "V". This also gives you a little spring movement to the door. It also helps to have the servo arm line up with the pushrod when the door is closed. This takes any load off the servo when the door is closed and stops it burning out.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Thanks Stoat I'll try that.....

Magnum RC

Couldn't help but in on this one. You might want to try the new Wike Retract regulator. It performs several functions with electric retracts one of which is a door sequencer. FYI

http://magnumrc.com/wike-electric-re...tor-p-220.html

stoat

Very Cool! But how does it stop the retracts from being operated on the ground?

n6iap

Here is another technique that you can leverage.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...t-mgb-LOSB4204

RC cars use the spring system to keep from burning out servos for the throttle/brake control. Adjustable closure and openning with buffer to keep the servo happy. Not saying to use that specific device but the adjustable spring works for me.

Hope that helps.

jimm

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Ok pretty much got the gear doors squared away. One servo was lost in the battle. Another is on its way. I should have ordered a spare in the first place. I'm going to have to reinforce the doors to keep them from warping lol. I see guys have come to the same conclusion. Question on the flaps. I was surprised to see 4 flap servos. Suggestions?????...... 2 per channel (side) or separate for each?

FlyNick

When I was working on the "upgraded" wheel axles I took apart the landing gear and then I realized that one of the inner springs is missing....

I have called (several times) and send email to ARFPros about replacement parts and the only answer I have got was "...we have moved and we let you know.". It's almost 3 weeks now and I have not gotten any response from them so at this time I am looking for alternative sources.

Does anyone has a "spare" spring or two for the ESM air retracts?

I am will compensate for the part and any shipping charges.

The other solution will be to replace both springs; any suggestions on where can I look for them?

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

I talked with ARF pros a few weeks ago... The lady said they were getting out of the ESM models and parts because TBM basically had them beat lol. She said they were clearing out what parts they had left... I was looking for parts for my hawker typhoon retracts. I ended up going directly to ESM but that was a waste of time.. They referred me back to TBM. They don't carry spare retract parts... I would search online. Someone has to carry something that will do the trick....

stoat

Is this the Olio spring inside the leg? Give us some dimensions if you can.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

Bleeping iPhone sent it twice!!!!

stoat

Get a Samsung...... ;-)

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

I'm going to redo the gear doors... Not to pleased with screws showing... Gears and air lines are in... glad i decided to check the hardware on the gear. nearly every screw was hand tight... all threadlocked and ready to go mow. Moved on to the flaps. The imitation robart hinges are crap. They didn't even include any for the flaps!!!! C'mon really!!! Good thing I'm going to switch them with some real robarts... I like the hidden linkage idea but I'm having the darnedest time finding some circuit board...

stoat

Yep, the ESM hinges are made from cheese, and a soft one at that..! If you cant find circuit board or fiberglass sheet (hobbyking has it) then ply will work fine. Soak it in CA and its as strong as FG anyway.

midastouch_73

My Feedback: (27)

I decided to take another look at my local electronics shop. My first trip was not successful the person I asked for assistance wasnt helpful. I hate asking workers for help when I go to places. It always seems as if the don't know squat about the place they work or the products they carry. I was able to find exactly what I was looking for "circuit board" If you want something done right... You know the rest. Now I can tackle completting the flaps and ailerons......