ESM 50cc Corsair
03-22-2014, 01:11 PM
#2126
My Feedback: (49)
How much DOWN thrust have you guys used on your Corsair? I started off with a zero (down) -zero (right) thrust firewall mount. I think I will change that.
The other day I flew my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth that I installed a DLE-20 on. No matter how much nose-down trim I added, she still wanted to climb with more power. I know it was CG'd good, and that leaves the engine thrust to be dealt with.
Now, on to the most important matter, based on the Tiger Moth's results, I want to add some down thrust on the ESM Corsair with Saito radial, but how much is enough? Right now I added some washers behind the engine mounting plate on the top two bolts which gives me about 2 degrees down thrust. Seems like a lot. I was thinking 1.0 to 1.5 degrees would be about right. 2 degrees would likely work, but no need using more than required. It does change the way things fit under the cowl as I have already discovered.
I did a quick weigh in of the components and am at 28 pounds. Likely be 32 lb when done.
CG check before I paint. Right now, she sits at 30 percent MAC. Not too bad, but still have paint to do. Keep the tail LIGHT!
The other day I flew my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth that I installed a DLE-20 on. No matter how much nose-down trim I added, she still wanted to climb with more power. I know it was CG'd good, and that leaves the engine thrust to be dealt with.
Now, on to the most important matter, based on the Tiger Moth's results, I want to add some down thrust on the ESM Corsair with Saito radial, but how much is enough? Right now I added some washers behind the engine mounting plate on the top two bolts which gives me about 2 degrees down thrust. Seems like a lot. I was thinking 1.0 to 1.5 degrees would be about right. 2 degrees would likely work, but no need using more than required. It does change the way things fit under the cowl as I have already discovered.
I did a quick weigh in of the components and am at 28 pounds. Likely be 32 lb when done.
CG check before I paint. Right now, she sits at 30 percent MAC. Not too bad, but still have paint to do. Keep the tail LIGHT!
Last edited by LBJ; 03-23-2014 at 06:42 AM.
03-23-2014, 04:44 AM
#2127
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Re leaded/unleaded/ethanol fuels...
If I'm not mistaken, while most engines will run on a leaded fuel, the catalystic convertor on unleaded fuel based cars can become a problem. Whilst the leaded fuel is bliss to the anti-knock and valve trains, it can be a real demon to the 'Cat'... raising exhaust train temperatures in the Cat box to dangerously high (metal-melting) temperatures, IIRC (??)
Since our RC I/C engines don't run Cats (well, not yet...anyways)... I'm guessing here that it should be relatively safe to run a good quality AvGas?
And... before the Greenies start jumping up and down... my 2lts per month is still going to cause waaaay less environmental damage that one single Cessna passing over my house (every 5 minutes) does...?
BJ
If I'm not mistaken, while most engines will run on a leaded fuel, the catalystic convertor on unleaded fuel based cars can become a problem. Whilst the leaded fuel is bliss to the anti-knock and valve trains, it can be a real demon to the 'Cat'... raising exhaust train temperatures in the Cat box to dangerously high (metal-melting) temperatures, IIRC (??)
Since our RC I/C engines don't run Cats (well, not yet...anyways)... I'm guessing here that it should be relatively safe to run a good quality AvGas?
And... before the Greenies start jumping up and down... my 2lts per month is still going to cause waaaay less environmental damage that one single Cessna passing over my house (every 5 minutes) does...?
BJ
03-23-2014, 06:12 AM
#2128
Re leaded/unleaded/ethanol fuels...
If I'm not mistaken, while most engines will run on a leaded fuel, the catalystic convertor on unleaded fuel based cars can become a problem. Whilst the leaded fuel is bliss to the anti-knock and valve trains, it can be a real demon to the 'Cat'... raising exhaust train temperatures in the Cat box to dangerously high (metal-melting) temperatures, IIRC (??)
Since our RC I/C engines don't run Cats (well, not yet...anyways)... I'm guessing here that it should be relatively safe to run a good quality AvGas?
And... before the Greenies start jumping up and down... my 2lts per month is still going to cause waaaay less environmental damage that one single Cessna passing over my house (every 5 minutes) does...?
BJ
If I'm not mistaken, while most engines will run on a leaded fuel, the catalystic convertor on unleaded fuel based cars can become a problem. Whilst the leaded fuel is bliss to the anti-knock and valve trains, it can be a real demon to the 'Cat'... raising exhaust train temperatures in the Cat box to dangerously high (metal-melting) temperatures, IIRC (??)
Since our RC I/C engines don't run Cats (well, not yet...anyways)... I'm guessing here that it should be relatively safe to run a good quality AvGas?
And... before the Greenies start jumping up and down... my 2lts per month is still going to cause waaaay less environmental damage that one single Cessna passing over my house (every 5 minutes) does...?
BJ
We don't want that.....keep them ignorant, I say.
03-23-2014, 07:42 PM
#2130
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Oakies - Mums the Word then
I really must get around to finishing my Corsair - there really isn't all that much to do... there's basically just the wing servos to install (including the 4 for the flaps), fill it with fuel... and fire it up.
I'm just a coward when it comes to thinking about actually flying it
Darn big thing it is - bigger than anything I've flown so far by more than a factor of 2.
...and... I have to join a club to be able to fly it - she's certainly no 'park flyer'.
One thing I did notice, though, was how relatively flimsy the fewz is between the canopy and tail end - presses in quite easily...
BJ
I really must get around to finishing my Corsair - there really isn't all that much to do... there's basically just the wing servos to install (including the 4 for the flaps), fill it with fuel... and fire it up.
I'm just a coward when it comes to thinking about actually flying it
Darn big thing it is - bigger than anything I've flown so far by more than a factor of 2.
...and... I have to join a club to be able to fly it - she's certainly no 'park flyer'.
One thing I did notice, though, was how relatively flimsy the fewz is between the canopy and tail end - presses in quite easily...
BJ
03-23-2014, 08:28 PM
#2131
My Feedback: (49)
BJ, the fuselage behind the cockpit on mine is flimsy too. But, the overall shape of the fuselage is what gives it strength. Unless there is an obvious crease or flaw in that area, then it should be OK. I have a Sky Shark P-40N that was so "oil canny" in the fuselage behind the cockpit that I made a brace out of a bamboo dowel and 2 pieces of plywood and epoxied it in that area to keep the fuselage in place. So far, it works fine.
I would recommend gluing a backup brace on the bulkhead under the cockpit area as the one on my Corsair wasn't glued too well. The bulkhead material is any too strong either. I also added a brace behind the "headrest" area on the aft bulkhead there on the left. That's where I will screw the plastic aft cockpit part to keep it in place.
As far as flying, you have to keep in mind you cannot just chop power and bring her in for a landing as in a smaller warbird (maybe, but sometimes even they will quit flying). Keep power on all the way thru touchdown (couple a clicks). She will slow down with flaps and behave well as long as there is power on the plane. Be sure to watch the video of the CARF Corsair being flown in at idle and she snaps in from about 10 feet. Plane was destroyed. Keep her flying and go around if needed.
There is some discussion at our field as to what happened here, but I say he tried to land with the engine at idle, and of course, pulled the nose up, several times. When the nose came up for the last time, that was the beginning of the end. The engine was running till the end, so not engine failure. But, not to get fixated on this video, just a good example of a totally avoidable crash. In my humble opinion. Ha
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQJ3TzSZkpo
I would recommend gluing a backup brace on the bulkhead under the cockpit area as the one on my Corsair wasn't glued too well. The bulkhead material is any too strong either. I also added a brace behind the "headrest" area on the aft bulkhead there on the left. That's where I will screw the plastic aft cockpit part to keep it in place.
As far as flying, you have to keep in mind you cannot just chop power and bring her in for a landing as in a smaller warbird (maybe, but sometimes even they will quit flying). Keep power on all the way thru touchdown (couple a clicks). She will slow down with flaps and behave well as long as there is power on the plane. Be sure to watch the video of the CARF Corsair being flown in at idle and she snaps in from about 10 feet. Plane was destroyed. Keep her flying and go around if needed.
There is some discussion at our field as to what happened here, but I say he tried to land with the engine at idle, and of course, pulled the nose up, several times. When the nose came up for the last time, that was the beginning of the end. The engine was running till the end, so not engine failure. But, not to get fixated on this video, just a good example of a totally avoidable crash. In my humble opinion. Ha
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQJ3TzSZkpo
03-26-2014, 04:52 PM
#2133
My Feedback: (49)
Found this today working on my Sky Shark P-40N. But, could have happened on a ESM Corsair! Something to keep an eye out for on a plane that is several years old and flown lots. This one is 5 years old. Lucky it didn't bite me in the backside.d
Servo extension wire for the Electronic Ignition Eng Battery. Wow. It was up inside the closed area behind the muffler where I keep the ignition unit and I never look in there. Found several things to fix, and lucky I caught them.
F.Y.I.
Servo extension wire for the Electronic Ignition Eng Battery. Wow. It was up inside the closed area behind the muffler where I keep the ignition unit and I never look in there. Found several things to fix, and lucky I caught them.
F.Y.I.
03-27-2014, 05:19 PM
#2136
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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A judicious blob of silicon sealant carefully put in the right places can help isolate things in a vibration absorbing capsule while also holding it in place...
BJ
BJ
03-28-2014, 06:46 PM
#2138
My Feedback: (49)
I seem to recall reading somewhere that either Home Depot or Lowe's could mix up Mil Spec paint according to the FS number. Does this ring any bells? I went to Lowe's today and asked the not-too-aware person working the paint counter about this. She pretty much drew a blank. Any ideas on getting a Mil Spec FS paint color mixed? Such as FS 35042 Blue?
Just got my new pilot from Lyle Vasser. Wow, very nice job he does on these guys.
Just got my new pilot from Lyle Vasser. Wow, very nice job he does on these guys.
Last edited by LBJ; 03-28-2014 at 07:49 PM.
03-29-2014, 09:57 PM
#2144
The Corsair likes to fly tail-high. Not easy to say how much down thrust one needs on this one.
03-30-2014, 04:44 AM
#2145
My Feedback: (49)
It was more like "eureka" and the light bulb lit up in my mind after seeing the Moth fly. No direct comparisons between the two planes. But, I am quite sure they Corsair needs some down thrust. There is always the trick I use on some planes in my Spektrum transmitter. You can add down elevator for any throttle setting over 51 percent. That keeps the nose down at the higher power settings. And as we all know, planes want to climb as you add power.
Removed the old pics and replaced with the final pics of ole Pappy. Ha. A few more little things needed in the cockpit, but nothing major.
Removed the old pics and replaced with the final pics of ole Pappy. Ha. A few more little things needed in the cockpit, but nothing major.
Last edited by LBJ; 04-01-2014 at 06:47 AM.
04-02-2014, 03:02 PM
#2146
My Feedback: (49)
Got the fuselage sanded with 150 grit wet paper which was mostly to removed the old decals. Those things died hard. There should be enough "tooth" to hold the primer now. Had enough white primer to do the cowl. Rest of plane will go to a friend's driveway to prime and paint and will have to wait for a little better weather as it's getting windy and rainy around here. Also waiting on some color chips for the grey, white, and blue paints to take to Lowe's for a color match. Looking forward to getting her painted.
04-05-2014, 12:34 PM
#2147
Wow! Stop the presses!...well at least my presses.
I bought the retractable tail wheel for the Hangar 9 Corsair from Horizon Hobby for $49. It looked more scale than my electric Robart version.
OMG. It fits perfect and looks 100 times better...and a lot cheaper. It even came with a wheel. Construction is light weight, but that is exactly what you want in the tail. The wheel also sticks up a bit from the doors like on the full scale Corsair. Seriously, it is like it was made for it...it probably was given the copy-cat nature of the Chinese.
Robart on the left...Hangar 9 on the right. Now I have to figure out how to convert it to electric using the Robart jack screw.
Very pleased.
jim
I bought the retractable tail wheel for the Hangar 9 Corsair from Horizon Hobby for $49. It looked more scale than my electric Robart version.
OMG. It fits perfect and looks 100 times better...and a lot cheaper. It even came with a wheel. Construction is light weight, but that is exactly what you want in the tail. The wheel also sticks up a bit from the doors like on the full scale Corsair. Seriously, it is like it was made for it...it probably was given the copy-cat nature of the Chinese.
Robart on the left...Hangar 9 on the right. Now I have to figure out how to convert it to electric using the Robart jack screw.
Very pleased.
jim
04-05-2014, 02:04 PM
#2149
So much better looking...and way cheaper. Fits like a glove. Not kinda...exactly.
I still have some "figuring" to do, but it's very promising. The conversion to electric and the wheel sticking out the doors will take some work. Can't wait to get it in and working.
jim
I still have some "figuring" to do, but it's very promising. The conversion to electric and the wheel sticking out the doors will take some work. Can't wait to get it in and working.
jim
04-05-2014, 11:29 PM
#2150
My conversion to electric tailwheel on both the TF 190 and this one is simple;
A standard Robart tailwheel driven by a Hitec 645. Just make sure the servo horn is in parallell with the rod when fully extended.
A standard Robart tailwheel driven by a Hitec 645. Just make sure the servo horn is in parallell with the rod when fully extended.