jimkron

People like to shoot a lot of things in Texas...ask Dick Cheney.
Plane looks awesome in the air...love the paint scheme.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Thanks, Jim, got another professional photog lined up when we get some better weather. He's done some very nice work on several of my warbirds.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Cheney would have shot LBJ

mkriley

Would an OS sirus 300 5 cyl. radial fit in the cowl and is it enough engine, I have the engine and would love to use it

thanks for any info

mike

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

mkriley, not sure about the fit, but at only 4.0 HP. may be a bit anemic. Even a DLE-55 (5.5 HP) would be more powerful, by comparison. The cowl will accept a diameter just under 10" diameter. The Saito FG-84 is 9.85" and it fits, but not any room to spare.

I looked this info up on older OS Max specs since it is not apparently a current engine.

mkriley

Thanks for the input, Now is there any of these KMP corsair available?? anywhere?

mike

captainron

mkriley
check with Troy built.

cosmo21

Hey LBJ, what CG did you use? was it 135mm back from leading edge at the root?
Gonna do a preliminary balance today to decice on servo location.

BTW I have no instructions as this was a "preloved" a/c. I am actually undoing the previous owners work and doing it properly this time.

grrrr

Cheers

Matt

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Matt, that would work. Mine was right at 28 percent MAC which is 5.0" from the center LE of the wing. 135mm is 5.3". I feel anything from 4.5" to 5.5" would work. That's about 25 to 30 percent MAC which is a safe CG for first flight in any model I am aware of.

I spent at least a hundred hours rebuilding a "nice" TBM Zero (their first version 10 years ago) I bought off RCU from a guy in Houston. Haha. He ended up giving me back $300 to cover the many repairs and parts I had to buy, as he got taken in the deal too.

cosmo21

Cheers mate, is that the centreline of the wing? or at the fuse/ wing joint?

'll shoot for a nice midrange, see what we get.
Currently testing the gear for leaks, all looks good so far. It's robart tho, so I expect itll work nice. Never really had a problem with Robart at all. Just be systematic in set up and it pays off later for sure.

Yeah, I asked the fella for some money back, cuz he provided me with the ESM elec gear, but no controller, ie completely useless. I told him I send em back and he can give me 150 bucks. We agreed, haven't heard from him! So I guess I got a nice set of f*^(ng paper weights. I really don't like frauds man.

Cheers

Matt

n6iap

I think we need a "Like" button so we can congratulate and acknowledge the great work without having to add to strings.

And YES great work, thank you for posting.

jimm

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Center of the wing where the two dowels plug into the fuselage. Measure 5" (or whatever your number is going to be) aft of the LE then draw a line 90 deg to that line across the wing, light pencil, then out to the wing tips and you have your balance points. I use a Vic RC balancer as the plane is a bit heavy to try the fingertip method at the wing tips.

cosmo21

Thanks man, it's a huge help.

Matt

cosmo21

Hey LBJ, sorry to be a pain, but what spinner are you using. I'm about to order one from Tru Turn, just gotta figure out the size and threads ect ect.
cheers

Matt

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Matt, Let me find the papers for the order so I can tell you exactly what I used. They are downstairs, I think. I also used a Dave Brown adapter since the engine shaft isn't internally threaded.

OK, have the receipt.

You need a TruTurn -

1-3/4" STYLE A PROP HUB
Part TTH-1750A
$24.95 USD

Also, from Chief Aircraft or Dave Brown

10mm x 1.25 Prop Adapter - Long (This is the shortest one that comes in 10mm threads).
Part DAV 9112
$5.95 USD

Then, you use whatever bolt that fits the prop adapter to hold the prop hub on. I think it's like a 10-32 which should be no problem to find and cut to length. I had to drill the TruTurn backplate out to 10mm to fit the threaded shaft when it arrived. Just use a standard metric prop reamer in a drill press to keep it perfectly round and centered. Also, be sure to tighten down the nut securely before installing the prop adapter, as there are not any additional thru bolts holding the prop from coming loose. Also, make sure the prop adapter is on pretty dang tight as well. I used a Dave Brown adapter because it's a bit stronger than TruTurn, but that's just me. It may be easier for you to just make one order from TruTurn and use their version.

Don't forget to adjust your valves to 0.0015" (GO) - 0.0020" (NO GO) gap on all 6 valves. Oil the moving parts on the rocker arm area with one of those micro-needle oilers like train guys use. Check the gap on the plugs to 0.024". Should start right up.

Any more questions, let me know.

patfairlane

My Feedback: (170)

Could not find a esm middle wing panel,soooooo this top flite was adapted....The wing was not altered,...The wing was just placed even with the bottom of the fuse,the the gap filled...It can always be reversed if I find the esm wing section...sorry for the pics...

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

That's a pretty cool solution.

captainron

Hey LBJ...........Captain Ron here. I sent you an email re: the P-47 you have for sale.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

I might have a video coming of the first flight. The guy said he had it, but was trying to work it in with other things. Maybe I'll get some video soon.

cosmo21

These flaps aremaking me thirsty!

The geometry of the flaps, I'm finding very difficult to get any holding power on the out board flaps. No matter what I do, there is play in the system. Using 9 kg Hitec digitals, the servo is not moving. the pushrods are tight, no play, or bend. It's the confounded hinging system. Some one else built this plane, I'm undoing his sh&*^*&y work.

Any advice/ solutions ect appreciated.
It's driving me to the drink, ....enjoying my red wine tonight ; )

Matt

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Matt, the main thing is to get them (all) to deploy to the same degree of deflection, one to the other. "Play" is a bit hard to define, but once they are down, do they hold their position? When you drop them, the air pressure is going to be pushing on them and if they resist that pressure and hold position, then that's what's important. Does that make sense?

For what it's worth, I used some LHS digital metal gear servos with 200 oz of torque for the flaps. They seem to work fine.

kwik

I use Hitec 645 MG's, and they work fine. I do have one servo on the outermost flap (The one on the outer wing-panel), and one servo on the innermost flap.

So, that is 4 servos. All controlled from a Futaba MSA-10 (Similar to Hitecs Matchbox).

cosmo21

The play I speak of, yes the outter flaps will blowback at full throw and half throw. I'm sure it's not the servo, it's got plenty of grunt for just the one surface, and the servo is not moving, it's in the geometry.The inboard servos have their own servos, they are holding.

Can you guys please post a pic, of the hinge arrangement, I'm sure the original builder has done it wrong. I have no instructions. I will cut the hinges off and put in new ones, properly. Just sh&*&t I wish I didn't have to do.
Suffice to say this plane will not leave the ground until all systems are 110%.


The Hitec digitals I'm using have about the same power as the good ole 645's. I couldn't get any 645 here atm, otherwise my entire plane would have them.

Matt

kwik

Here is the hinges on my flaps. I have everything inside the wing;



The black thing you see coming out of the wing, is a ball link at the end of the pushrod, 3 mm.

There are two hinges on the flap with a 3 mm hole in them.

A 3 mm bolt goes through, which is tightened, so there is no play there. The movement is solely a rotary movement around the brass thing in the ball link.

I have the same setup on both the outer, and the inner flaps.

LBJ

My Feedback: (49)

Matt, after that small amount of "play" do the flaps become solid? In other words, they can only move to the rear inflight, so, they move a bit then stop. Correct? Flaps are not going to be used at full power and full speed, so, not likely to flutter. As long as they stay put when down, that's what you want. My setup is about the same as Kwik's. Maybe you could post a pic of your setup? I am assuming yours is as per the instruction booklet? If the control horns are 90 degrees to the flaps like an aileron, then that's going to possibly cause a problem and you should redo them like Kwik shows in his photos.