ESM 50cc Corsair
08-17-2014, 03:26 PM
#2401
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: , AUSTRALIA
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The hinges are exposed, aka 90 degrees. He had to much hinge exposed, causing excesive play, I've redone one side with very little hinge exposed, ie down to the knuckle. If this proves usatisfactory. I will redo the other side in a conventional sense, like kwik's.
I'll report back.
I tell ya this plane better fly well cuz I'm getting p&^(ed off.
Cheers fellas, all advice taken on board, Muchias Gracias
Matt
I'll report back.
I tell ya this plane better fly well cuz I'm getting p&^(ed off.
Cheers fellas, all advice taken on board, Muchias Gracias
Matt
08-24-2014, 02:36 AM
#2408
Cosmo, I am sure you know you need baffles? And you need "channels" around the cylinders, forcing the air to pass along the cylinders.
There is an awful lot of heat generated on max rpm.
There is an awful lot of heat generated on max rpm.
08-24-2014, 05:10 PM
#2409
Thanks LBJ. I really am starting to enjoy making these (almost ARF) ESM planes look better with some paint...as you well know. This is the first time I have purchased paint masks so that I can paint on all the markings. I got them from ProMark. I've enjoyed learning something new.
08-24-2014, 08:36 PM
#2410
Join Date: Oct 2011
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There is an awful lot of heat generated on max rpm.
Yeah I realise this, that pic is just an initial fit up.
That being said, I have given it a good run on the ground, with the cowl as is, to see if I really needed baffling. It seemed to be the same temps as with the cowl off, engine ran just the same. With extended full power ground runs. I will test further before commiting to baffles.
Finally got the flaps to work properly. I had to drill out the original hinges, done by someone else. Redo them properly, and now work nicely.
Any one tell me the control throw? I don't have a manual.
Cheers
Matt
Yeah I realise this, that pic is just an initial fit up.
That being said, I have given it a good run on the ground, with the cowl as is, to see if I really needed baffling. It seemed to be the same temps as with the cowl off, engine ran just the same. With extended full power ground runs. I will test further before commiting to baffles.
Finally got the flaps to work properly. I had to drill out the original hinges, done by someone else. Redo them properly, and now work nicely.
Any one tell me the control throw? I don't have a manual.
Cheers
Matt
08-24-2014, 09:05 PM
#2411
The aircraft came in roughly 30# and flew beautifully with great power reserves. Landings were smooth and easy.
It should work fine for your ESM Corsair.
Here are a few pictures:
Last edited by Fly2XS; 08-24-2014 at 09:10 PM.
08-24-2014, 10:21 PM
#2412
Scott, that quite incredible !!! But you have to believe it, when you see it.
Thank you for those pictures.
That the engine does not overheat under such conditions made me think.
When making the baffles on mine, it overheated after 1 minute running. Can you imagine ? It got better after the baffles.
But both my two Saito FG-57 planes overheated too, in the same period. ( !!! )
There was two common factors for all 3 engines;
1) A very hot summer. ( For us Norwegians)
2) My wife had filled up the Jerry-can for me.
But your picture of the H9 without baffles, and the fact that my FG-57's has never overheated in previous summers, makes me think it is number 2 on my list.
My wife filled the Jerry Can with Shell petrol. Shell FuelSave the pump said. Some Green stuff in it, me thinks.
So I filled Esso petrol on it, and none of the engines has overheated after that. But it is also colder air now, to add to the complexity.
When you think you got it all covered, you can be sure there is a new factor, sabotaging ones setup.
Thank you for those pictures.
That the engine does not overheat under such conditions made me think.
When making the baffles on mine, it overheated after 1 minute running. Can you imagine ? It got better after the baffles.
But both my two Saito FG-57 planes overheated too, in the same period. ( !!! )
There was two common factors for all 3 engines;
1) A very hot summer. ( For us Norwegians)
2) My wife had filled up the Jerry-can for me.
But your picture of the H9 without baffles, and the fact that my FG-57's has never overheated in previous summers, makes me think it is number 2 on my list.
My wife filled the Jerry Can with Shell petrol. Shell FuelSave the pump said. Some Green stuff in it, me thinks.
So I filled Esso petrol on it, and none of the engines has overheated after that. But it is also colder air now, to add to the complexity.
When you think you got it all covered, you can be sure there is a new factor, sabotaging ones setup.
Last edited by kwik; 08-24-2014 at 10:28 PM.
08-25-2014, 12:19 AM
#2413
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Yeah, mine ran on the ground just fine without baffles, so Id prefer not to use them if possible. I've also brought the cowling fwd a bit, which opens up the out lets a bit more as well.
I live in the Tropics, so Id imagine even our "winter" is a fair bit warmer than Norway.
It ran fin with no overheating what so ever. I WILL test a lot more on the ground before she goes up tho.
I think you had some dodgy fuel my Scandanavian friend. But it's always smart to err on the side of caution.
Matt
I live in the Tropics, so Id imagine even our "winter" is a fair bit warmer than Norway.
It ran fin with no overheating what so ever. I WILL test a lot more on the ground before she goes up tho.
I think you had some dodgy fuel my Scandanavian friend. But it's always smart to err on the side of caution.
Matt
08-29-2014, 05:58 AM
#2414
Hey Kwik and anyone else,
How did you break-in your Saito FG 57? The manual(s) are a little confusing. I know it should be run rich for the first few tanks as the rings and other parts "seat" themselves, but how many needle turns on the High Speed needle is that? What is your procedure?
Thanks,
jim
How did you break-in your Saito FG 57? The manual(s) are a little confusing. I know it should be run rich for the first few tanks as the rings and other parts "seat" themselves, but how many needle turns on the High Speed needle is that? What is your procedure?
Thanks,
jim
08-29-2014, 07:34 AM
#2415
My Feedback: (49)
Jim, I set my FG-84 to the N.V. settings that Fred Culbertson used and then flew it. But, I ran it on the ground for two, 8 minute runs the first day I put gas in the engine and then another 5 minute run before I flew her a week later. I break them in by flying them, not too hard and not too soft on the throttle.
Matt, I will say on the H9 Corsair, Fred said he overheated on the first flight and had to dead stick. Most of his Summer flights were after the fairly extensive engine mods which helped cooling due to better fuel flow an created a bit more RPM's. I highly recommend making some baffles because the small amount of work involved FAR outweighs the expense of a dead stick landing gone bad and possible destruction of the plane. Besides, baffles look very cool, especially the ones that Kwik made.
Matt, I will say on the H9 Corsair, Fred said he overheated on the first flight and had to dead stick. Most of his Summer flights were after the fairly extensive engine mods which helped cooling due to better fuel flow an created a bit more RPM's. I highly recommend making some baffles because the small amount of work involved FAR outweighs the expense of a dead stick landing gone bad and possible destruction of the plane. Besides, baffles look very cool, especially the ones that Kwik made.
08-29-2014, 12:33 PM
#2417
Well, I just ran three tanks thru my Saito 57 at 3.25 turns on the High Needle. Low needle is the factory setting.
Full throttle is 5900 rpm. Low throttle is steady at 1500 rpm. Without any adjustments, transition from low to high is good with just a tiny hesitation. No leaks. No white smoke.
I'll start to lean out the High Needle and see if I can pick up some rpm. Hopefully, this will smooth out the transitions.
jim
Full throttle is 5900 rpm. Low throttle is steady at 1500 rpm. Without any adjustments, transition from low to high is good with just a tiny hesitation. No leaks. No white smoke.
I'll start to lean out the High Needle and see if I can pick up some rpm. Hopefully, this will smooth out the transitions.
jim
08-29-2014, 03:07 PM
#2418
On the 4th tank I ended up at 2.75 turns and only got the rpm to 6000 with the 22 x 10 Zoar. I was going to lean it some more but did not see any difference so I left it on the richer side. Low needle is the factory setting. Transition is very acceptable from low to high and back to low. Idle is solid at 1500 rpm. One cylinder is hotter that the other by 25 degrees or so...looking from the front, its the cylinder on the left.
I guess its time to mount to Corsair.
jim
I guess its time to mount to Corsair.
jim
08-30-2014, 04:05 AM
#2420
Guys, I remember somebody wanted to buy one of these...........I'm going to sell mine. I've ordered the Robart P-47 and I need some cash.........PM me or email me..... [email protected]
08-30-2014, 04:10 AM
#2421
My Feedback: (49)
Matt, here's what the booklet gives for throws.
Ailerons - 30mm up/down
Flaps - 40mm
Elevators - 25mm up/down
Rudder - 30mm left/right
I usually make the rudder at the limits of left/right, what ever that turns out to be.
Flaps are pretty steep, maybe 45 degrees at full down, first setting is half that.
Elevators are 1 inch up/down. Better to have a bit more throw in first flight so you can flare, in case CG is too far forward.
Ailerons are about 1 inch up/down.
Booklet CG calls for 135mm behind the LE at the center section wing joint. That's 30 percent MAC which is a safe setting. That's 5.3 inches. A good rule of thumb is between 25 and 30 percent MAC for first flight. So, an even 5 inches is good.
Keep "some" power on thru touchdown!
Ailerons - 30mm up/down
Flaps - 40mm
Elevators - 25mm up/down
Rudder - 30mm left/right
I usually make the rudder at the limits of left/right, what ever that turns out to be.
Flaps are pretty steep, maybe 45 degrees at full down, first setting is half that.
Elevators are 1 inch up/down. Better to have a bit more throw in first flight so you can flare, in case CG is too far forward.
Ailerons are about 1 inch up/down.
Booklet CG calls for 135mm behind the LE at the center section wing joint. That's 30 percent MAC which is a safe setting. That's 5.3 inches. A good rule of thumb is between 25 and 30 percent MAC for first flight. So, an even 5 inches is good.
Keep "some" power on thru touchdown!
08-30-2014, 07:47 PM
#2422
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Matt, here's what the booklet gives for throws.
Ailerons - 30mm up/down
Flaps - 40mm
Elevators - 25mm up/down
Rudder - 30mm left/right
I usually make the rudder at the limits of left/right, what ever that turns out to be.
Flaps are pretty steep, maybe 45 degrees at full down, first setting is half that.
Elevators are 1 inch up/down. Better to have a bit more throw in first flight so you can flare, in case CG is too far forward.
Ailerons are about 1 inch up/down.
Booklet CG calls for 135mm behind the LE at the center section wing joint. That's 30 percent MAC which is a safe setting. That's 5.3 inches. A good rule of thumb is between 25 and 30 percent MAC for first flight. So, an even 5 inches is good.
Keep "some" power on thru touchdown!
Ailerons - 30mm up/down
Flaps - 40mm
Elevators - 25mm up/down
Rudder - 30mm left/right
I usually make the rudder at the limits of left/right, what ever that turns out to be.
Flaps are pretty steep, maybe 45 degrees at full down, first setting is half that.
Elevators are 1 inch up/down. Better to have a bit more throw in first flight so you can flare, in case CG is too far forward.
Ailerons are about 1 inch up/down.
Booklet CG calls for 135mm behind the LE at the center section wing joint. That's 30 percent MAC which is a safe setting. That's 5.3 inches. A good rule of thumb is between 25 and 30 percent MAC for first flight. So, an even 5 inches is good.
Keep "some" power on thru touchdown!
I made the baffling for the engine, so should take overheating out of the equasion. I just copies KWIKS.
Gonna do a balance today, to decide where the elevator servos a re going.
Cheers
Matt
09-06-2014, 10:29 AM
#2424
My Feedback: (49)
Hi Guys, refer to ad on RCU under WARBIRDS for SALE. This is NOT a for sale ad, but a referral to the FOR SALE ADS on RCU.
After having been in this apt for almost 3 years, and having intended to have moved in the first 6 months i moved in, I have finally found a piece of land to build on and plan on doing just that by the end of the year. Or, at least being well under way to that end. As such, I am going to be needing LOTS of money for out of pocket expenses. This plane took about one year to complete.
This is a sacrifice, but I need to get out of this Apt in Tarrant County Texas. Not to mention Ft Worth is growing exponentially every year and now we are as big as Dallas, population wise. Freeways are clogging and it's looking like Big D more every day, so glad to be getting out of the rat race and to the country.
After having been in this apt for almost 3 years, and having intended to have moved in the first 6 months i moved in, I have finally found a piece of land to build on and plan on doing just that by the end of the year. Or, at least being well under way to that end. As such, I am going to be needing LOTS of money for out of pocket expenses. This plane took about one year to complete.
This is a sacrifice, but I need to get out of this Apt in Tarrant County Texas. Not to mention Ft Worth is growing exponentially every year and now we are as big as Dallas, population wise. Freeways are clogging and it's looking like Big D more every day, so glad to be getting out of the rat race and to the country.
Last edited by LBJ; 09-06-2014 at 12:08 PM.
09-06-2014, 11:35 AM
#2425
MOderator Gods are going to come after you LBJ........Big NO NO selling stuff on the Forums. I've had my hands slapped two times. ONce I just mentioned I was going to sell an airplane and the Moderator took it down. A little unfair? Yeah, but It's the rules. Just sayin...........saving you some trouble.. Beautiful plane........Good luck selling it.
Captain Ron
Captain Ron