Speedracer2112

LOL!! Thanx man! I thought they were the round thingies on the exhaust that spun real fast to compress the intake air and increase the O2 content and therfore increase the amount of fuel you could add to the cylinder and increase horsepower. So they are turbo chargers? Cool. Come on Fred.

SR

Speedracer2112

Hi Bob.

I noticed your making a mold of the bottom for the bomb bay. Are you going to just make doors or the entire bottoms tray? I was going to make a mold also. I have plans on doing the entire bottom with reinforced edges so that the doors can be mounted to it. There isnt really any need in all of us making a mold. Is anyone going to make a kit?

SR

testfly

PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF THIS!!!!!!!!

I have changed my way of thinking after reading this information. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523


If you don't review the info on the above link. Review this one. It is short and to the point http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

I plan to go back to the C-130 and the B-25 and re-wire both of them.

I have always mounted ESCs for good air flow so re-mounting them was not hard to do.
Below are a few images on how it was done. The belly pan will cover them and I plan to cut vent holes in the pan when I mount it.

Speedracer2112

I have a couple questions. First why not just add the capacitors? They would be simple enough.

Next, why are all of the foamie manufacturers running long battery wires? I have a B-25 from Hobby Lobby with long battery wires and as I'm writing this I just remembered that it fried its 20 amp speed controllers on start up. Almost all of them did as I recall from the RCGroups thread. Hobby Lobby replaced them with 30 amp controllers. I havent had any problems since. Quite a few foamie B-17 are about to hit the market also, I bet they will have long wires too. Hummmm.

SR

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

I intent to do the long wires from ESC->Motor also. However not sure my Bat->ESC wires are long enough to reach the wing as testfly is doing (lipos in the nose)....

Speedracer2112

I found this for you MANFRED. I never knew a B-17 had a supercharger also. I like watching all their videos. Try the " How to fly a B-17" series. Funny stuff.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFwwgbj9Bi8[/youtube]

SR

testfly

Hi SR,

There are a few reasons not to add the caps.

#1) If I add one for every 4" of wire then 32" would need 8 caps.
That will take up a lot of room in the small outer nacelle.

#2)Adding caps puts another item in the power line that can fail. (8 items on the outboard motors)

#3) At some point I plan to do some testing myself to see the effects on long and short motor wires as well as long and short battery wires.
I plan to take 3 motors and 3 ESCs and wire one as a control. Wire a second with long battery wires and the third with long motor wires.
I plan to run all 3 from the same ch on a radio and at the same time.

BTW Did you read this from the second link I listed?

"blimp 30 feet of wire to speed control and steering motor in the tail.
control voltage rating 60 volts 50amps motor load 12v 20 amps
result instant smoke first run of motor. I replaced control at no
cost . same result instant smoke. then i was told about long wires
ran a test with 3 ft cord result 30 volt swithching spikes on 100 uf input cap.
had customer put control near battery in gondola. 30 ft wire to motor
end of problems."

Also it was noted that by using a larger ESC it will help as the caps can handle more.

At any rate with lots of $$ invested in the B-17 and my plan to fly it often. I could not see taking a chance after a friend had taken the
time to send me the first link I posted and after I spent about 6 hrs going through all the links and related post.

In fact I had the plane ready to maiden Thursday. I got the link that evening and by 6:00 PM on Friday I had all 4 motors and ESC's off the B-17
and was prepping the wing center so they could be mounted there. I was up at 3:00 AM on Saturday to finish the wiring so as to keep the Saturday Maiden plan.

FWIW- I fly a airbus 380 that has long motor wires and have had no problems with it. (see image below that was taken from my A380 project page)
Next time I have the B-17 out I want to check the amps and watts to see if there is any difference in long battery wires and long motor wires.

With long battery wires I was pulling 46.84 amps and 719.7 watts turning a 12X8 3 blade MA prop on the ground.

bokis

I wrote something about this a couple of pages back that long DC cables are a big NO-NO..
This is why both Ivve with his B17 and me with my Lancaster has the batteries and speedcontrollers up front next to the lipo:s..
I have the A380 from hobbyking and the ESC are next to the Lipos in that one too...
Edgar,with the setup we use we havent experienced any problems with heat so far..
//Bokis

Speedracer2112

Remember at about pages 3-5 we were having troubles with oversized photos and upload failures? None of the pictures work for larger photos and the oversized photos are deleted.[:@]

SR[&o]

Speedracer2112

I was asked how I weathered my plane on another thread. I thought I would post it here also.

I used an airbrush. The panels were made using a double "Frog Tape" and "Friskets" technique. They are a green low tack tape and a vinyl mask off repectively. Put the Frog tape on your arm first to make it extra low tack then lay it down on the line. The Frisket mask is ready to use out of the bag.

Using the airbrush, spray down the tape line with the color of your choice. Pull it up in about 30 seconds and lay it back down on the paint line you just sprayed but on the other side. Im using Testors Model Masters Enamel. It dries almost immediately. Place the tape so it leaves the panel line the size you want. Tape off the side panels from overspray. Respray it. Pull up the tape and you have a weathered panel line. Make the "upwind" side lighter and the "down wind" heavier or "pulled" out. (Sorry about all the "xxx"s.) If you dont want a line, just respray with out the tape over the painted line to fade it in a little.

The entire top side of the wing only too 2 hours to paint all of the weathered lines on the 10' wing. After I placed the lines, I chipped the paint with Floquil Stainless Steel and then faded the entire wing with Floquil Earth . I really over did it with the chipping and will be removing some of it. I dont know if other people use this technique to place the panel lines, I just thought it would work and it does. Call it the SpeedRacer Technique. This is actually my first weathering attempt. Another guy (Thanks again David)gave me the colors he uses and I used them and then experimented after I gained a little confidence. I started with Floquil Weathered Black and Floquil Earth. Soon I was blending in Faded Olive Drab.

Where it was oversprayed or too dark I just resprayed with another color to dull it out or pull the color back out.

The streaks of oil and smoke were the most fun and really allows you to go nuts adding different colors. If you dont like it just spray over it until you do.

After I was happy I cleared the whole wing in Flat Fuel Proof.

Harbor Frieght has airbrushes of great quality for $20 everyday and $10 on sale. They are Dual Action, Internal Mix, Siphon Feed and work very well. The 10' air hose is $7 and has the fitting to attach to a compessor hose.

Get the airbrush and play around with Acryl black and a piece of cardboard to gain confidence. Then find a crashed plane part, clean it up and just go at it. It will come to you with time.

GO FOR IT!!

SR

Speedracer2112

This weekend I took her back out to the field. Everyone was more interested in the stand. They had me take the plane off so they could take pictures of the stand.[sm=confused.gif]

I did manage to take off about 75% of the aluminum chipping to a much better level and finished the weathering on the bottom of the fusalage after I brought her home. Bad weather prohibited photos.

SR

Bob309

OK here we go! Yes I am building a frame for my bomb bay doors. As you can see (also listed in pervious post) I am using 3/16" hard wood for the bay. This will strengthen the wing when installed. (Please cut ALL parts and trial fit first. I also ran my wiring before gluing in the formers with (V-Poxy) instead of epoxy. I am going to cover the doors with ABS plastic and paint. I will post more pictures in a day or so.

Bob309

Bombs for the plane? Well I would like to thank my brother who is working on the bombs and the bomb drop system. Can't wait to see them finished and painted.Don’t know how he does it, but he does. I think he used Easter eggs and pill boxes. I will ask
Maybe I can fir M-80's in them! (Just Kidding)
The Easter Bunny better watch out! I just might return some eggs.

Speedracer2112

I'm off work from the 19th -27th. Bring her by. It wont take long with two of us. Pick out a scheme. BTW, it doesnt have to be war torn like mine. Just lining her out makes a world of difference! I bought a new airbrush that can paint a hair line. I cant wait to use it.

SR

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Hey guys here is a pic of the pilots that are being offered in 1/10 scale from CJM ..

Ty

NUMB LOCK

My Feedback: (3)

Ah...been away from this hobby for awhile. Got my toddlers a MTH Model Train O Scale set for XMas and I've been busy building a train layout. LOL.
Needless to say, this new winter hobby took over...but I'm getting the bug to get back to this.
This is honestly the first day I've even glanced at this forum...seeing where you guys are...all are incredible.
I'll have to read this thread from the beginning again.

Bob I.

randy m

My Feedback: (30)

Hey Guys, I been reading this thread everyday! Could not stand it any longer I ordered my B-17 today it should be here monday or tuesday. I am going with 46 thunder tiger pro engines and 3 blade props.I had a 102in B-17 a few years ago and hated selling ever since.Will count on you guys for some pointers on building it,Thanks Randy

testfly

Just finished adding the nose art and now it bomb bay time.......

testfly

I need the nose turret (gray) bottom turret (gray).
Anyone have a source for parts?

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

you need the paint or the turrets?

testfly

I need the parts.
I have the paint.

long story short....While working on the bomb bay build I had put the front half of the fuselage on a stool to take a few measurements. The problem is that I left it there and walked back over to the bench to make a cut in the wing.
Just after the cut I hear a CRASH and when I turned around the fuselage had hit the floor. Talk about a sick feeling. I had just added the nose art and ball turret just a few hours before the fall.

Well, after looking over the damage I need a few parts.
I need the nose turret (gray) bottom turret (gray) gun set (black)
Not sure what it might cost but I may want a front fuselage to replace this one as there is a 3" crack on the top of this one now.
The crack has just been repaired. but, I may end up replacing it just because I know it is there.

I need the turret parts right away. We have an event the second weekend in March and I need this one ready to fly.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Call me. Number is on my website..

Ty

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

What a sick feeling. Been there done that!!!

randy m

My Feedback: (30)

I picked up my plane from fedex this morning,I had a few little things damaged but nothing that took just a few minutes to fix.I have got all my control surfaces glued in.I am calling it a nite for now and will install tail retract and vert.stab and rudder tommorow.Later Randy

testfly

Bomb Bay Project has been completed.

I wanted to use the B-17 for the candy drop at our club events.
I also wanted to load the plane from the top.
I have used my B-25 for the last few years and I have to load it by turning the model on it's back.


I have updated the following video link with the latest information.

http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b...7-bomb-bay.wmv

You can also view more information on page 13 of the B-17 project page.
http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/b...w-page-13.html