Luftwaffe60

AUFMERKSAMKEIT..... ALL YOU AXIS PILOTS!!!

Now available in the Hobby People warehouse...WOW which to choose from, ESM JU-87B OR THE BH JU-87B Stuka???

I have a RCV120-SP just waiting and looking for a new home.........although the RCV120-SP is likely to be underpowered for the ESM version.

Check out the link below.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-covering.html

for more pics click this link as well

http://www.modellbau-bichler.com/bla...m-p-17425.html

grahamd1

My Feedback: (1)

I was lucky(?) enough to pick one of these up a couple of weeks ago at the UK Nationals, and have started assembly.

A lot of thought seems to have into the design, BUT somwhere some things have gone slightly wrong, nothing major, more annoyences.

ie the supplied (double ended threaded wire flap/aileron pushrods) are about 3/4" too long (the supplied keeps are probably longer than the designer had in mind), easily solved, either tap further, or replace.

Biggest thing that drove me mad was the undercart assembly.... The supplied wheels do NOT fit. The kit is supplied with working olios (nice for an arf), with a swinging arm assembly to brace them during landing (nice touch), BUT again someone never checked the drawings.
The olios feture a bolt that holds them to the wheel holder, problem is the bolt head takes up 1/4" that the wheel needs. I also do not like foam wheels on a model this size, so I threw mine in the bin and got Dubro low bounce 3 1/4 ones, problem solved.
Best tip I can give (so far) is dry run the undercart assembly without fitting the spats, and BEND every thing to fit as they are not very accurate, and trying to fit everything with the spats in place is a nightmate (ask me how I know!!!)

The good points are the supplied items are nice, the tail wheel assembly not only looks right, but steers and is sprung, no plastic horns in this kit, only nice strong ally screw through horns (and the holes are already drilled). Not too sure about the cartoonish characters in the cockpit, but I can take care of that later (oh by the way the sales info claims the canopy is not fitted (so you can tart up the office) IT IS. Also the adverts claim "electric optional", NOTHING in the manual mentions electric.

That said I'm looking forward to geting her finished, and I'm going electric.

My build is [link=http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/topic,74071.0.html]BH Stuka build (Warts and All)[/link]

Luftwaffe60

Thanks for the update, keep this build going please. I will be purchasing mine this Wednesday 9/15. Power plants will either be my RCV120SP or my Saito FG20 Gas engine with a Turbo Header Muffler from RC Specialites, it depends which engine will fit better in the cowl.
Do you have any pics of the wing construction?

grahamd1

My Feedback: (1)

Not sure what you want re wing construction, nothing to do, apart from installing the 6 servos, and the undercart, thats it. The wings are two part, the two wings attach to the fuz using an ally tube and 4 screws (and they have included some screws to hold the ally tube in the wing).

mobyal

Any updates or further coments on this airplane? I'm considering it and would like to hear any input.
Thanks

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

I just got one...Will be doing the buuld in the next week.
Will post all findinga along the way.
I plan to use a gasoline engine. [8D]

kahloq

Might get one after tax season.

3136

I just picked up mine from Hastings Hobbies here in Vic Australia ($355).
The tail colours missmatch by 5 mm
I would toss the clevices though and buy dubro ones, I never use kit supplied ones, the threads on supplied rods are often crap too.
But what can you expect for $355,
I would rather these were not included in the kit as faulty parts can cause a potential death.
From the servo arm the control surface I only use dubro and metal geared servos.

I found the rear sprung wheel has the metal control arm ca glued into the plastic steering shaft, whoever did this on my one spilt so much glue in there it seized the spring loaded assembly. That was fixed ok but the control rod needs to be fixed better in the plastic shaft though
I'm not sure if it will hold a grub screw well, I'll tap in tomorrow and find out.

My canopy was left unglued and the pilots came in a bag, (different to Grahamd1)

Cutting platic parts out shouldn't really be part of an arf kit but for $355.....................

Overall the quality is similar to world models, fuse and wings look nice, but the hardware and lack of attention to detail let the kit down.
But that said I think it's still a nice looking plane and a few people have told me they fly fantasticly.

I think the engine mount area needs a bit of glassing though, looks a little weak.
Hey NoFlaps, what cc gasser are you going to use?
 I have a dle30 in my 80 inch mustang and thats fantastic, I love that engine to bits.
I'm not sure if a dle 20 would be better (820g), The 30cc is 1020g. I'd lean to the 30, a little more grunt is better than not enough.
I have a canister muffler in the mustang though which added around 180g from memory, they do make them sound sooooo much better.
Thats mounted further to the rear so it can go over the c of g or even further back for balance. 

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

3136,

My engine is the First Place Engine 1.3/ 21CC

DISPLACEMENT 1.3 cubic inches (21cc)
WEIGHT 43.2 ounces (including muffler)
THRUST 10 lbs @7,400 rpm
RPM RANGE 2,000 to 7,400 rpm
RECOMMENDED PROP 16x8

3136

Hey Grahamd1,
I see what you mean about the wheels..................... F***....... what a pain.
If you are putting one of these together without any doubt, fit the wheels without the spats (like Graham said).
Once it's all ok pull it apart and put it back together with the spats.
Sadly I didn't listen to Graham and I cracked one of the spats while grappling with all the parts.
It glued back ok, a liitle paint and it won't be noticed.

I found the clearance from the wheel to the oleo was fine on my one, however the wheel hub itself has different  dimensions on each side, a little needs to be trimmed off one side so it spins freely when fitted.
Some of the landing gear parts are made of aluminium which has been cut and ground by a worker, they are not all uniform and have irregular angles and appearence to them, they aren't die cut with machinery, so each plane will be slightly different, (depending on the worker)

The right angle plates that hold the oleos to the wing don't clear the white plastic  forward retaining plate that holds the brace in, I trimmed the plastic retainer and ground the oleo brackets so it fitted in ok and then the oleo can swing forward enough to be bolted into the brace.
This may be different in another box though as the right angle oleo brackerts could be a different width as it appears they are all hand made.

I would say this is the worst part of the kit, a pity as it's one of the first things you do. the rest of the model looks like it will go together fairly well though, so I'm still happy I bought it.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Graham,

I am building the same Stuka and would like to seek your advise on how to install the propeller using the provided spinner. The propeller hit the spinner plate and has to be raised. How do you solve the problem? Did you use any adaptor? Thanks for any other suggestion.

3136

I'm not sure what you mean, can you post a picture?
What size prop are you trying to fit?

I used a aluminium spinner and a 3 blade prop.

Also it's a good idea to put a bit of fibreglass inside the spats, when the plane is nosed over it has a tendency to split the spats on the seam.
But that's because of a crap landing, if you are a good pilot you probably don't need to worry about it.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Hi 3136,

Thanks for responding. Please see attached picture. You can see the edges of the prop are touching the aluminium spinner plate (original spinner plate that comes with the kit). The propeller shaft is 8mm. Also, should I replace the spinner with aftermarket one? If so, which brand? Thanks.

3136

That prop looks a bit unusual, maybe take your spinner backplate to the store and find a more suitable prop.
What size and pitch is it?
I can't remember the brand of spinner I got, it's an 89mm 3 blade one with a Master airscrew 16x10 3 blade.
Master airscrew props are usually very flexy and not much chop but this 3 blader is actually nice and stiff, they must make the 3 bladers differently, the pack said glass filled, which I don't think the 2 bladers are.

I would be reluctant to pack your prop with washers to get clearance, that knurled surface on the spinner is there to grip the prop hard in place when tightened, but that's just my opinion.
I'd go to the store and find a better option.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Hi 3136,

Thanks again. It's APC electric prop. I'll try look at other spinner.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Okay,
I finallygot my gas 1.3 FPE engine running nicely and wow, what a difference it made. its a great combination and no additional weight was needed.
I used the HK bomb drop nd that was a real crowd pleaser too. unfortunately the bomb's brittle plasic shattered, so a lil' glue and tape will get the bomb back together.
I only wish I could have seen the bomb all the way to the ground...I was so busy watching the plane.
The Stuka looks soo cool in the air !!

kahloq

For those hobbyking bombs, I highly recommend fiberglassing them on the INSIDE. They look great, but the plastic will break even hitting hard grass.

As for APC electric props...throw em away. They are very, VERY inefficient. While MAS may flatten out a bit at high rpms, they still produce a ton of thrust. APC E props on the other hand simply gobble up amps(if using electric motor) without pushing near as much air.
The best props ive seen for electric and fuel powered motors are the Turnigy Cherry wood props. Massive thrust and they dont weight much.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Kahloq,

How are you? Thanks again for providing more advices. I'll get the prop you suggested. Which spinner would you recommend for the electric prop? By the way, what prop do you use on your 60 size electric planes? Thanks.

kahloq

the spinner that came with the stuka should be fine. If you want something for a 3 blade prop or just another spinner, the P-51 parabolic is rather close to what a Stuka's spinner shape is. You can go to www.dbproducts.com and order an aluminum spinner and have it precut for whatever prop you want...2 or 3 blade.
As for what prop do I use on 60 size planes...well..it depends on what motor is in the plane.
For an electric motor of say a power 60...on 6s...Id be using a 15x8 or 14x10 turnigy cherry wood. A power 60 CAN turn a 16x10 3 blade master airscrew though, but dont hold full throttle long.

On a glow setup...if its a 4 stroke in the 1.20 size..then a 15x8.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Kahloq,

Thanks a lot for the info. Appreciate it.

3136

Helipk,
if you use a standard prop that supplied spinner will be fine.
It's actually nice with the aluminium backplate, I just went for a different one as I wanted a 3 blade.

Turnigy props are good, I have a few myself, the problem is bloody hobbyking delivering them.
I have had orders go missing, orders sent to the wrong address then they told me it was delivered, when asked for proof they can't provide it, orders send and paid for express 3 day delivery taking 4-6 weeks to come.
Hobbyking in my view are a bunch of clowns, selling some good , but a lot of crap products, if you actually get it delivered you are very lucky.
I buy from   http://www.himodel.com/   where possible now, their wood blades are great, but like all blades don't forget to balance them.

Once again just my opinion.

Happy flying

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Kahloq,

Thanks again for your input.

helipk

My Feedback: (1)

3136,

Thanks for your suggestion. I'll look into the recommended prop.

kahloq

I just wanted to mention....I have NEVER had a problem with hobbyking and receiving orders. I made well over 40 orders from them, some registered air, some not..and some even EMS. All of them arrived and took no longer then 2 weeks. The registered air usually arrived in 7-10 days. The EMS about 5 days.
Most of the stuff sold is NOT crap, but, just not "named" brand products. The turnigy line of motors, servos, etc are just as good as e-flite.

Im sure, every now and then there are problems, just like any company....and those that happened to be on the wrong end of one of those problems generally have a biased view against them....and I DONT fault them since they hasd a poor experience. however, it should be strongly noted that those types of issues are few and far in between UNLIKE bananahobby.

Hobbyking no longer offers NON registered mail shipments, So..you can track every order now thru Singapore post.

3136

Well good for you Kahlog, I'm glad you have had good luck, however.......
 I HAVE had problems with their OVERDUE deliverys when charged $30 plus for express it shouldn't take 3 WEEKS.
SOME not all of their products ARE crap, outrunner motors burning up after 10 seconds, batteries that don't balance, ubecs that put out 3a intead of the claimed 5a, etc, etc. I have had good luck with MOST though.
"A BIASED VIEW" you bet I do, that's what happens when you get screwed time after time.
Anyway this is a bit off topic, but I could seriously write pages on the bad service I have had from hk.
I always order from himodel when I can now, seriously the service is fantastic, and so bloody fast.

How did you go with your prop Helipk?

Has anyone had any luck replicating the siren of jerrico?