RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Next it was time to prep the cowl ring for a repaint. Now why the Tennessee Museum of Aviation did not paint the entire ring red, leaving the inner side silver is beyond me. I guess after restoring 2 P-47's they ran out of money for paint.:) So I will repaint the red and want to prime the silver out.

pic #1 shows the initial masking done for the silver. This was done with 3m fine line masking tape for the edge and then blue masking tape for the area along with some paper. I cut a piece of paper to fit the inner area of the cowling and just slipped it in between the dummy motor and back of the cowl ring. Worked great as you will see in the next photos.
pic #2 and #3 show the tape and paper removed and the inner cowl ring all primed. All that is needed is to paint the primmed area red and we are in business.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Next video is up and ready for viewing.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/article/...underbolt-30cc

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

With the majority of the build complete I still need to install the receiver, electric retract control box, and batteries, check the center of gravity, and do flight control setups and checks. As we all know that is some of the boring stuff I wanted to do some more scale work to the model to improve its looks before we begin the full weathering. So it was time to install the decals, guns in the wings, pitot tube, and fuselage antenna mast.

Applying the decals is rather straight forward. I chose the Wicked Wabbit markings for my model. Being as I am going to weather the model and flat clear it I elected to trim the decals to look as though they are painted on. This take more time, but the effect is much better than the traditional look of all the clear decal material around the main decal marking.

pic #1 and #2 show the decals cut away from the sheet and trimmed up to the edge. I use an X-acto knife with a #11 blade to do this. Take your time and cut out each individual marking. When the model is complete the look will be much better.
pic #3 shows the beginning of applying the number 44 to the side of the aircraft. I use the masking tape to act as a straight line for the top of the numbers. You will want to place them and step back and look, adjust, and relook a number of times. You will note I used the top of the star and bar for a location at the back end and then I split the tape on the hatch line for the front reference.
pic #4 shows a close up look of setting the numbers in place. Once again take you time and step back to make sure things are correct.
Although not shown very well, the model is currently put together and sitting on the main gear with the tail in the air. I adjusted the model to where the hatch top is level. This will represent as a level fuselage in flight.
pic #5 and #6 show the aplication of the decal. You will note the tape holds it in place and position as I remove the backing and slowly work the decal down from top to bottom. When done you shouuld have no air bubbles and a wrinkle free number that will look painted when the model is fully weathered.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Applying the fighting cock decal to the cowling is done the same way.

pic #1 shows the decal taped in place and located as per the instructions.
pic #2 shows the decal on the opposite side complete.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

great idea cutting the clear film off the decals... I'll do the same

Keep those tips coming

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

John,

I really appreciate all the tips, like ironing down all the covering didn't know that. I would always iron down the seams on new ARFs then go back and use the heat gun on the rest of the structure. Maybe this is why I find myself usually having to reshrink my covering every year after I bring them out of winter storage. Tips like this are very valuable indeed. I can't wait to see your weathering techniques.:D
John Fischer

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Once the decals were on it was time to begin adding the plastic scale parts and guns. These are easily glued straight to the covering with thin CA or you can use Pacer 560 canopy glue. Another option is to remove the covering and use either CA or epoxy. My preference is to glue straight to the covering with thin and medium CA.

There are three parts in the kit to add to the fuselage. The two main exhaust louvers located on the lower fuselage just behind the cowling. The other is the turbo-supercharger scoop located in front of the tail wheel unit.

pic #1 shows the right exhaust louvers glued in place. I located these in the exact position as stated in the manual. There is one installed on the left and right hand side of the model.
pic #2 shows installing the machine gun tubes in the wing. I glued these in with thin CA once they were positioned correctly. The key is to set the inner and outer guns and then move the two middle guns until they touch the straight edge. This procedure is outlined in the manual.
pic #3 show the guns installed looking down.
pic #4 shows the guns installed looking straight on. You will note how they do not follow the leading edge. This is correct. The guns were parallel to the horizontal axis of the aircraft in flight.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

The turbo supercharger scoop on the aft belly is a unique part and look to the P-47.

The first thing we will need to do is to ensure it will fit the fuselage contour. We do this by taping some 220 grit sandpaper to the belly in the area where it will fit.

I also went to the effort to grind out the main backplate so you could see up into the scoop similar to the full scale aircraft. This is your choice.

pic #1 shows the sandpaper taped in place where the lower turbo supercharger scoop will fit.
pic #2 shows running the scoop for and aft to contour the part to fit the fuselage.
pic #3 shows the scoop being installed.

Now if you are planning on just installing the main scoop then use the measurements in the manual for placement.

If you are planning on adding the aft square scoop behind the main turbo supercharger scoop then you need to position the turbo supercharger scoop a bit further forward. The location used in the manual is not fully accurate but delivers a very good representation if only installing the one scoop. If you plan on making the other square scoop then you will need to position the main turbo supercharger scoop in the correct location. The new location is 2-7/8 inches forward in place of the recommended 2-7/16 location in the manual.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

With the plastic scale parts added it was time to address the pitot tube. The kit comes with a pitot tube that is made from a 6mm diameter wood dowel. In all honesty, this part belongs in one place.

So let's throw that one away and I will teach you how to make a more accurate tube in just a few short minutes.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

<span style="font-family: Verdana; "><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 255); ">John, what is a pitot tube?</span></span>

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

a pitot tube is a device that measures air pressure. It is how air speed is determinied by measuring the differential pressure. They are usually on the wing leading edge. If you have ever seen pics of a F117, they are on the nose. Most people have mistaken them fr machine guns. The f117 has I believe at least 4 on the nose. They usually input into the flight computers. The problem that some people may remember is that if they should freeze up, they give false indications of airspeed and can cause fatal crashes. I believe that is what happened withthe Air France Flight don over rthe South Atlantic Oceana few yrs back. Hope that helps

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

If you got a little time strip the covering and fiberglass her. I just finished my older H9 P-47 150 arf About 50hrs of work well worth it. Painted with latex house paint, 45cc motor, Robart air retracts, A-123 batt. JR power safe rx. Ron

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Ram-bro is correct in his explaination of the pitot tube. Thanks Ram-bro. And just for an FYI, the F-117 had 4 probes in the nose on the production variants. They were called air data probes as they provided all air data to the flight control computers, not just airspeed.

Ron, great looking P-47 man!!!!!!!

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

John,

Thanks again for the tips on the glue syringe! It was exactly what I needed to do the raised rivets on my Fliteskin 109F that I'm in the process of building. The only thing that I did different than you, is that I first used vinyl rivets from G-Pete here on RCU, then applied my RC-56 glue on top of these(this keeps them all the same size, its perfect with the syringe!) I got this tip from Chad Veich here on RCU and it worked flawlessly!!!

thanks again,

Casey

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Your 109 project looks awesome Casey. Glad you were able to pull a tip or trick out of the thread. Taking the weekend off from the P_47 and trying to work on a personal bird.:D

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

<span lang="EN">

John,

When I get my P-47 I would like to make the inner doors on the main gear and the tail wheel doors operational.
Do you have any suggestions on how I might do this? </p></span>

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Latest video showing hinging is up.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/article/...underbolt-30cc

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Hey Cris,

I will be showing the main wheel doors being operational soon as well as in a video. The tailwheel doors I elected not to. Not a lot of room back there to bring everything to life. Definitely possible, but I have to pick and choose my battles you know. :)

Keep an eye out and the inner doors will be working soon.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

<span lang="EN">

Excellent, Thank you John!</p></span>

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

We are going to build a new Pitot Tube for the left wing. The one included was ridiculous in size. This new one is made out of brass tubing and gives a much better appearance when installed. The brass tubing sizes are 5/32 for the main tube, then 1/8 for the forward section, then 3/32 for the nose. You will also need some 3/16 tubing for the receptacle that the tube will plug into. You can find all of this at your local hobby shop in the K&S rack.

The parts will be soldered together or if you are not very good at the soldering program you can use JB weld, it works just as good.

Cut the lengths of tubing to the dimensions listed below:

3/32: 5/8 inches long
1/8: 1-1/4 inches long
5/32: 3-1/4 inches long
3/16: 3/4 inches long.

You will now solder or epoxy the tubes together to make a tube that is a total length of 4-5/8 inches long. Once they are all soldered together I use some 220 grit paper to clean up the solder and taped it slightly between each tube junction. The two pictures show the pitot tube built and the look you are trying to achieve.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

The hole in the left wing leading edge is for a 6mm diameter dowel. Time to mount our new pitot tube in the leading edge.

pic #1 shows a 1/4 diameter dowel cut to about 3/4 of an inch long. I drilled a hole in the center of it for the 3/16 diameter piece of brass tubing.
pic #2 shows the brass tubing glued inside the dowel and sanded flush on one side. Please note the back side of this part is solid so the pitot tube we made will not slip through the back.
pic #3 shows a trial fit of the tube into the receptacle.
pic #4 shows installing the dowel/brass tube receptacle into the leading edge. You will want to make this flush and sand gently so as to not damage the finish on the model. You will also note the small squared piece of aluminum ultra cote to cover over the new receptacle. Iron this in place and open the hole in the brass tubing.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

pic #1 shows the pitot tube installed in the wing.
pic #2 shows the tube next to the original wooden dowel that was included. You can see the new tube is a far nicer rendition over the stock piece.

The small little fin on the top is a piece of .040 abs plastic that is CA'ed in place. Once complete paint the tube with some Testor's Aluminum or Metallic Silver spray paint. The pitot tube can now be installed for flight and static but removed for transportation so it does not get bent or damaged.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

The next job was to make the antenna mast This was made from a 1/4 diameter wooden dowel that is sanded to shape on a drill press. If you do not have a drill press you can do this by hand but it will take a bit more work and patience. Might be a good time to head out to Home Depot or Lowes and see if they have a drill press on sale. ;)

I cut a 1/4" diameter wooden dowel to the same length as the 6mm wooden dowel that was included. Then I chucked it up in the drill press and began to sand it down.

pic #1 shows the dowel in the process of being shaped on the drill press. As you get smaller at the tip it will be hard to stabilize.

The tool being used to shape the dowel is a Perma Grit flat course sanding strip. It is available through Bob Violett Models and works incredible. This one is over 15 years old and still going strong. They never wear out.
http://shopbvmjets.com/zencart/index...roducts_id=382

pic#2 and #3 show a small tool I made out of 1/8 inch plywood to hold the dowel while I shaped it. With this small tool I can hold the dowel in position while it is spinning on the drill press and still put pressure to shape it.
pic #4 shows me using some 220 grit sand paper to smooth out the dowel and basically polish it for a finish. It was very common on full scale aircraft of the time to have their antenna mast be made of wood. So we just want to smooth out the grain for a nice finish when painted.
pic #5 shows the new antenna mast next to the included 6mm dowel that came with the kit. A definite improvement.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

So now we have to mount the antenna mast and do it where we can make it removable. Another option here is to make it where it can be used as a tool to open and close the main hatch. This is easily done in the next few steps.

pic #1 shows the antenna mast, some 1/8 inch diameter tubing, some 1/8 inch diameter music wire, and a couple of small rare earth magnets.

Here is a link to the rod magnets I used for the antenna hold down.
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/p-14-nsn0577.aspx

pic #2 shows me CA'ing in the magnets into the brass tubing. This will hold the antenna mast in during flight.
pic #3 shows the music wire inserted into the brass tubing being held in place by the magnets. Check every part during the assembly to ensure all is working correctly.
pic #4 shows the antenna mask in place on the music wire and the music wire inserted into the brass sleeve. I drilled a 1/9 inch hole in the base of the antenna mast to accept the music wire.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

pic #1 shows the brass tube blued into a balsa block that will glue into the fuselage. You will note that about 1/16 of an inch of brass tubing protrudes above the balsa block. This will insert into the fuselage sheeting when installed.
pic #2 shows the mount installed in the fuselage. You will note the brass tubing that comes up to the outer skin of the fuselage.
pic #3 shows the antenna mast installed.
pic #4 shows the antenna mast being inserted into the mast mount.
pic #5 shows the antenna mast being used to remove the main hatch.