http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132674

Added 3/32 strip for more surface when wing-sheeting starts. You will see why when aileron is removed and leading edge of aileron is rounded

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132675http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132676

If ribs are undersized, add balsa caps and sand so all fit with straight edge across all ribs and spars

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132678http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132679

Main landing gear pocket gets a 1/4" balsa doubler with 1/64" ply lamination

Wheel well ready for retract mounting supports.

Will mount retract rails when top sheeting is done and wing is turned over

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132680

1/2" ply wedge joined glued to top spar and ply spar dihedral joiner in front

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132686http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132687

Rear spar joiner glued and capped with wedge ply

Balsa triangles added to end of rear spar ply former. Balsa triangles added to all ends

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132688http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132689

Time to work on right wing top

Right wing top building will be accelerated because I used left wing parts as patterns and made them while I was working on the left wing

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132690http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132691http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132692http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132693

Setting right wing washout:
Center is set at 0 degrees. Then glue to work bench. Bottom strap sets on wood strap glued to table and sanded perfectly straight.

Right wing glued to table and 3 degrees of washout from center to tip locked in place. Fish line attached center of TE and center-wing and wing tip

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132694http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132695

Bottom spar is removed for main wheel retract gap.

Use 1/4" and cover with thin CA for strength and fuel-proofing

Epoxy the 1/4" spar bridge with a 3/8" balsa sandwich filler between top and bottom spars

Bottom spar will have to be cut to fit dual main wheels into retract bay and wheels will then bump into (and stop) at top spar

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132698http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132699http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132700

Straight edge works great for keeping flap pocket REALLY straight during sanding. After top sheeting is glued on, it will become a core of strength due to triangular shape

Long level makes a great sanding tool. Use high-quality stick-on 120 sandpaper found at auto-body stores, not LHS

Works great for sanding long surfaces that have to turn out straight their entire length. I also used this tool to sand the support that the bottom spar is lying on

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132880http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132881http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2132882

If you look closely, the straight edge sitting on top of the spar shows no high or low spots.

If the ribs are not perfect, add wood to match airfoil, so sheeting will contact all surfaces perfectly

Beef up retract bay prior to top sheeting. Main gear mounts get strength from spars and this entire area of wing

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2133993

Wing glued to table with 3 degrees washout, then glue sheeting forward of main spar

Sand leading edge sheeting

Next, I will install leading edge 1/2" thick plank balsa while the wing washout is glued to the table

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2133994http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2133995

A 6 foot-long level sanding tool ensures a long straight sanded surface

3M sandpaper with 120 grit to do most of the shaping, then switch to 300 grit for finished surface

Several different sizes sanding blocks and some homemade sanding tools for stick-on sand paper. 3M sandpaper roll is 2.75" wide

Kram, I have to be honest..I did NOT get your Bierce reference....

I did however use the internet and find that not only was he a writer with somewhat of a bad attitude that DID try to mentor others...His rather OBLIQUE? social skills would in fact have made him one of the more cheerful people in my flying circle ;)

He even looks like a WW1 flier...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134011

Yessir! One of yer ilk, I would say.

"Bitter Bierce," as he was nicknamed, was probably best known for a short story about the Civil War titled "An Occurrence at Owl Creek," hailed by some as the best short story in all American literature.

Like many Americans, his soul was crushed by the Civil War, although he lived at least until 1914, when he disappeared while touring Pancho Villa's Mexican Revolution.

So, I suppose he might have had some contacts with early airplanes.

Wikipedia did a good summary

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134646

Ribs will NEVER be an exactly perfect fit for simply laying down sheeting

Add balsa strips to build up the "short ribs", then sand them all down to exactly the same level with the 6-foot sanding level

I make sure the center-most rib and the mid-wing rib and the end rib are exactly in line, then use those 3 as a guide to building/sanding the rest of them.

Editor's Note:

By now you've figgered out that Dwayne sorta breezes past construction details that most builders have figured out long ago.

But when he perseverates on something like the washout or the incidences or rib edge alignment, it's because it is VERY important for everything from final finish to flight quality and he spends a lot of time perfecting those details now, so he won't be scrambling to correct "ripple" effects later in the build


mt

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134647http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134648

Wing bottom-up with 3 degree washout locked in solid. Application of bottom sheeting will make the washout permanent and solid

Wing center 0 degrees and locked solid with support brackets glued to wing and table

Keep bracing clear for sanding.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134651

Next: flap building

Time for building flaps and aileron bottoms.

And for mounting retractshttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2134742

Wing is firmly glued to board upside down in this picture

This may be a slow building week

Here's some 8 year-old footage of Dwayne flying his first Don Smith 29.

Multiple touch-n-go's are his calling card

Both bombers are powered by Saito .91's

Both are still flying

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YarTeumCKk

Me, flying the same bomber 8 years later

Better video, better runway, worse landing

I had to give it a major makeover of the air and retract system, install JR 12X-2.4, but basic structure and engines very much airworthy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDX54Iqi9zg

Again, this is the same plane being built on the thread

Very nice Mark.

Enjoying your build thread, thanks for doing this!

To keep such a big flap solid, install 1/32" plywood behind the 1/2" balsa flap LE

The flap LE sets on 1/32" ply, with 3/32" balsa sheeting glued to the plywood

1/4" light ply flap end-caps

Sorry, pictures won't load tonight

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2135657

Laminate 1/64" ply on the flap TE between the 1/2" and the 1/4" balsa