so here is what I came up with for the choke operation. Taken from the bottom you can see I cut a slot in the servo arm to fit around the choke lever so it's actually the servo arm moving the choke and not relying on the nut being tight enough to keep it from slipping. Since taking this pic I cut the servo arm much shorter for cowl clearance.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2196011

ibow24 looks good, but a question as the choke will be on a Xmiter switch why not go direct and just limit the travel, that is what I did on my P-47and with a mni servo. the Corsair was done 4years prior so it will just stay as is.

Hay Grumman-cats
If you look at page #1 in the index on tail wheel's, as I recall there are pictures of that install and the mounting blkd was moved to put the wheel in the same place when down and that also aloud clearance in the upper part of the fuse, and the cable s were run thru that real small yellow center Ny rod material so there was no interference

Might give you some insight

Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6

I don't put the choke on a servo. Just use a small rod coming out of the cowl. No real reason other than that's how I've always done. Maybe it's time to rethink it.

grumman, one thing about making clearance for the the tail wheel to retract - the wheel doesn't need to go completely inside the lines of the fuselage for scale appearance, it actually only retracts about as.far.as.the axle if I remember correctly. So that saves you an inch or so I imagine.

hi
could anyone tell me the going rate for a new in box kit plus a set of mains would be

thanks
andy

thank you

I was tired of working off of a folding table so I took a break from the Corsair to build a new free standing workbench. My wall mounted bench works great for building but once you get to certain point you know it's easier to be able to work from all sides. I also wanted a bigger bench for when I start on the Hellcat. it's top is 84 x 32 1x4 poplar box in between 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF. I need to add a sheet of 1/2 drywall to the top as the building surface then cap the edges with 1x6 poplar (or oak)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2197336

That's a nice bench, and glad you have the room to do that, but a normal model builders shop floor is neve that clean:D.

Have fun

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Corsair Brotherhood # 6

Very nice bench!

hey Bob, it took a lot of cleaning just to get an area big enough to build the bench.. You cant see all the "stuff" piled high on the wall mounted bench to right.. UGH!!!! Now I need to organize.

and thank you

Have fun as my shop is like your wall mounted bench all the time , but I know ware every thing is, :confused:
I think

I've been slacking. Really just avoiding the flaps all together. Hopefully my hinge locations work out ok, but now I need to slot and join the hinges to each other. I'll test dit everything with some 1/6" ply and then make the permanent joiners from G10. For cutting the slots in the flap ends, do the heavy duty black Dremel discs do a good job cutting 1/8" ply?

Any tips for getting the flap slots right the first time?

Well I did not go that way, but make a jig in the form of a T that will slide it between the flaps in the up position use the lower surface as they are flat mark the slot position on the vertical part from between the flaps make your slot, and then use it to make the slots in the flaps, should work for both sides, after cluing in the web you may have to adjust the length of the slot in the flap that the web slides in.

Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

Corsair brotherhood #6
AMA13377

This may have been answered but I can't find it in this monster thread.
What model of corsair does the TF GS Corsair kit represent?

It's not the first gen "birdcage".. It probably is closest to 1A but guys have been modifying this kit to any version they like. Adding a chin scoop on the cowl, adding scaled exhaust exits at locations to fit the version, Cutting out a foot hole in the inboard flap section etc.
It really can be any version you want it to be.

During it's lifetime, the Corsair did not change much. Some minor modifications were added during production, but for the most part they were all the same model. The Top Flight kits are based on the F4U-1A, based on the canopy design in the kit.

Thats the beauty of the Corsair, unlike the Mustang, where the differences between a B/C model and the D model are quite apparent, the wing especially has subtle changes that are hard to model based on the kit without major tweaking of everything, the Corsair can be built as it is off the plans and kit, and cosmetically made to look like the different models. Some slight changes to the turtledeck and nose are needed to do the earlier X production models with the birdcage and shorter nose, but once these planes were in full production, the overall fuse, wings and tail remained the same. Some had different cowls to accommodate bigger engines, some were night fighters with the radar dome on the right wing, and during the Korean war, later production high altitude fighters replaced the fabric covering with metal. All of these variants can be built off the one kit. The majority of changes over its long run were under the skin.

Later runs had air scoops in the lower portion of the cowl, some runs had 8" clipped off the wings, some models had slightly different canopies and windscreens, some models had exhaust ports coming out different areas. It gives so many possible variations from one kit, that the Corsair is probably the best plane to model.

I've been putting it off long enough... If I'm ever going to finish this plane I need to figure out how I'm going to mount the cowl and get to it.

My plan (a lofty one at that since I've once again fallen off the wagon on this project) for mounting it has been to make a cowl ring with mounting tabs out of ply and install at firewall level, or with standoffs from the firewall - I would fully glass it front and back and around the cowl to reinforce it, and mount it from the front opening of the cowl with a long allen driver.

Again, that is the plan. One day. Maybe.

I went the easy way with 4 wood blocks 12 9 6 and 3 with the cowl flush at the top witch leaves agood cooling gap at the bottom, plastic inserts in the screw holes # 6 pan head S/S wood screws with a rubber backed washer under the screw head and with my G-62's that has been a good way to go about 50 flights and never had a cowl come loose not scale but at 10 ft you cant see them anyway,

But that is just me

Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6

Gents - I've been building my Corsair (off and on) for over a decade now and am committed to finish it this summer! I'm at the point of deciding how to work a fabric (Coverite) covering over the outer wing section of an otherwise glassed wing. Any suggestions as to how to approach this? Don't have an issue with covering the control surfaces, but the mix on the wing has me a little stumped. Maybe I'm overthinking this? Just cut the right size piece of Coverite, iron into place, then glass the rest, masking the fabric with tape? Any help is greatly appreciated! I'm running out of excuses before starting the glassing with water based poly - first time for me!

I built the 60 Gold Edition years ago. Where the rib stations on the wing were I put down chart tape (real narrow kind) and covered that area with fabric. The rest of the wing was glassed to represent the metal covering.
It turned out very well.. Looked pretty authentic.

Are they open bays, or simulated ribs? You can mask that area off and glass the rest, then cut the coverite to fit and iron it on.

The entire wing was sheeted and glassed. The tapes were put on over the glass in the right places simulating rib stations. Once covered this gave the impression of ribs and open bays.