Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Well, these long awaited ARFs are here, mine arrived today (5/20/2008). Some have been waiting since December 2007.

A few basics about this ARF:

The Full Scale
This ARF is about a 1/7 scale replica of an early P-51D flown by Capt Richard Peterson, 364th Fighter Squadron, 357th Fighter Group, 8th Air Force in October, 1944. This was not Capt Peterson's 1st Mustang: he earlier flew a Malcohm hooded P-51B. There is also a currently flying restored Mustang with this scheme, but it is painted glossy and has a yellow rudder.

Retracts
There were some obvious modifcations to the retracts and retract bays before these were shipped. In fact: they are NOT pre-installed, there are some wood parts which need to be assembled into the wings, and there is a note in the (retract) bag which states:
"At Top Flite we strive to produce the best airplanes on the market. Before we started shipping the P-51 Mustang .60 ARF we found that a couple of the parts did not meet our high quality standards. We have included the new upgraded parts with this addendum".

They appear very much like Robart, yet are different, and I cannot say who makes them. They DO have rather robust looking 5.02 mm/ 0.198" (LARGER than 3/16 in.) diameter struts installed, and appear to be at about 85 degree angle when down.

The fuselage has provision for intalling an air tank (IF optional air operated retracts are installed). See pic 8.

Main Wheels
I attempted to display the ruler over the wheel well, but it does not show up. I measured 3 5/8" across the widest part. It appears that if anyone wants to install wheels bigger than 3 1/2": they will have some work to do, as the wheel wells are one-piece, painted (aluminum color) fiberglass, blended into the wings. In fact, it appears that 3 1/2" wheels will be a somewhat snug fit, but that is what I intend to do. The wheels that come with this ARF have Dave Brown hubs, but appear to have some specially made 3 1/4" tires on them. I do not intend to use them.

Tail Feathers & Control Surfaces
Tail feathers are airfoil shaped. Elevators appear to be solid balsa, rudder is framed bals. Flaps are rounded at leading edges, all other control surfaces have wedge shaped leading edges.

Spinner
The spinner is all aluminum, painted, and is already cut for 2 blade prop (I will need to modify mine, as I intend to use a 4 blade APC 14.5 x 11. The included spinner nut adapters are for 5/16 x 24 thread motors shafts. This means that if you plan on using a Saito engine (which is my personal favorite fuel engine brand): you will have to purchase a seperate adapter nut with 8 mm x 1.25 thread. Dave Brown makes one for about $6, and it is available from Tower Hobbies.

Other Details & Small Parts
Main gear doors are heavy: seem to be made from solid fiberglass, but have nice detail.
Exhaust stacks look really nice, as does pilot and cockpit kit. There is also a 4 piece ( 2 of them are decals) instrumnet panel, which I will add pic of later

About This Thread
I highly encourage others who are building this Mustang to participate/ contribute. This thread isn't about me and/ or my Mustang, it is about helping any and all who are building this 'Stang so that we can ALL benefit from each others experiences.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Table of Contents Page

RETRACTS:

....Retract Rail Modification (Top Flite modification): Posts 5

....Retract FAILURES!: Post 93 ~ 97

....Retract FIXES (Stock retract mod): post 112

....CenturyJet Retracts Installation: Posts 19, 23, 108

....Modifications to Stock Retracts/ Installing RoboStruts/ Using 3 1/2" wheels: Posts 43

....Retractable Tailwheel: Posts 44, 61

FLAPS:

....Installing the Flaps: Posts 9, 36

....Discussion on Setting Up Flaps: Posts 39 ~ 55

SAITO:

....Using a Saito engine: Posts 22, 25

....Saito 1.00 Questions and Answers: Posts 57, 62, 63

First Flights/ CG Discussion: Posts 78 ~ 82

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Very nice, I hope you'll post detailed pics of the contents as a whole...

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Very nice!

Mine is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.

~Matt

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

The 'bag of wood' that comes with the retracts is obviously intended to strengthen the bond of the leading retract rail to the wing. It appears to me that Top Flite probably encounted a seperation of this front retract rail from the wing, and this fix is intended to lessen the possibility of that happening to the consumer. The parts weigh about 11 grams, so combined with epoxy will probably add about 1/2 oz total to the aircraft.

To install these parts, I found it necessary to remove (with a Dremel) a little bit of the the fiberglass wheel wells, which were protruding slightly into the retract bays. This is not mentioned in the manual.

The first thing I want to take on is the retracts. I want to use the stock mechanical retracts, but also intend to install 380 series offset RoboStruts on them, with some better looking, yet light 3 1/2" wheels (or maybe slightly smaller).

Problems I see right off is that the spring loop in the struts will prevent me from installing the RoboStruts UNLESS I move the loops farther up (about 5/8"?), closer to the retract unit. The loops in such a location do not have any clearance in the wells, and will not allow them to retract.

I guess I will have to assemble the retract bay re-inforcment parts and go from there.

Rather than begin another post when I make progress on this subject, I'll simply update this one, so check back in a day or so for revisions and pics.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Looks great, glad I ordered one! I'm thinking YS 110 with slimline pitts.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

CorsairJock,
I just received my kit today and I'm really impressed with the quality. It's more scale then any ARF I've built so far, and sure seems to be will built. My kit was very well boxed and no parts were damaged, and the covering was flawless. The mechanical retracts in this kit are robust and look well put together to me. I'm considering using 3 1/2" Robart scale wheels. But I'm not sure if they will fit, with the foam inserts.

I'm missing my wing anti-rotation dowl, and forward wing, hold down dowls. Other then this...so far my kit seems to be complete.

I just finished modifing a China/ARF P-51D to a "B" and I've a ST G90 in the "B." I'm stumped to what engine to install in this kit...for the incowl mufflers T.F. sells do not work well with the G90. I understand the ST G60 & G75 work ok with the T.F. incowl mufflers, but I sure don't want to cut up my cowl to install a Pitts style muffler in this "D" model...and I want to use the ST G90 in this airframe. I'm not thrilled with installing the engine inverted, but I don't see a G90 going in side mounted in the nose of this T.F. "D."

Does anyone make a muffler for the ST. G90, inverted that will not require large cutouts on the cowl ?

I use only 2 stroke glow engines on my models.

I am following your build on this model...so do keep the pictures coming in for all of us.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
AMA 15016

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

I wanted to make a few comments here, as I have been reading all the treads pertaining to this particular Mustang ARF! The outlines of this Mustang seem to be pretty good! Now realizing this is a ARF, "Scale" is a relative term, but I think we can say that his one looks good.

One thing I going to look into is the "main landing gear" position. If you look at the photo below, you notice that the wheels on the Mustang are ahead of the leading edge, whereas the wheels on the model are back a bit further. This brings up the problem of "nosing over" on grass fields that not smooth, mine included. Does it look like it might be a lot of work to somehow get the gear forward a bit????

Also, I am leading toward trying out the www.lado-tech.com retracts, as I don't want to deal with pneumatics. Probably start with the stock gear, then move up to the Lado's. The main gear also looks like it needs to be a tad longer as the wheel wells are not as close to the center of the wing to be scale! I know it's an ARF, but it looks like it could be scaled out really nice!

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Bob: I would think that the Robart 3 1/2" wheels would work, or any just about any 3 1/2" wheels for that matter. Any bigger than that tho will present some problems.
My nylon wing dowels (3) are in a bag with other small parts, such as wing bolts, control horns, etc.


Installing the Flaps
I installed the flaps (and ailerons) today, and I must say: I think the instructions leave something to be desired concerning flap installation. My biggest concern is that no mention is made on how deep into the flaps the hinges should be installed. It is obvious that the hinge line are 'sunk' into the flaps some, but how far (deep)? The instructions just tell you more or less push them in as far as they will go, trial fit to the wing (making sure that the flaps can be moved to within 1/64" of the wing trailing edge), then epoxy them on.
In my opinion: it is important that all 3 hinges be mounting in such a way that they hinge points (C/L of the hinge, or the center of the part that moves) are lined up with each other. If they aren't: they will 'fight' each other when the flaps are lowered. Altho slight mis-alignment will probably not cause any problems, I chose to install mine the following way:
I installed them onto the wings first, with the alignment tab points even with the trailing edge on the inboard ones, halfway between the point tips and where the tabs meet the round part of the hinges (on the hinge 'bearing' side) for the middle hinges, and with the tabs completely in the wing on the outermost hinges. This should keep them all in a straight line, with the outer ones having the movable parts sticking out slightly less, to go along with a shorter chord of the flaps toward the out ends.
Then I applied the Vaseline as the instructions suggested, and epoxied the flaps onto the hinges.

I hope that makes sense, I really don't have the time to read and re-read and try to make it more clear, maybe someone else can make sense of it and try to explain better.

Pictured are the flap hinges: exactly like Robart Hinge Points, only different (a term used by Japanese: exactly same, only different).

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

I'll disagree with on the first picture, I'm trying to show that the wheels need to be further out and that's is what I hope to do with this model, so the plane won't nose over. No matter the length of the landing gear, if it's behind the leading edge, it's my experience that the plane will nose over, even if your used the bigger tires.

The second picture obviously isn't a Top-Flite wing, but I was in a hurry and didn't say, what I was trying to illustrate. The length of the landing gear starts from just inside of the center of the wing. If you look at pictures of real Mustangs, you'll notice the inner gear doors are practically together. I know I'm nit picking and it's an ARF, but as a Pilot and having seen a lot of Mustangs in my life, I like that stance of a Mustangs, when the gear on a model is done right. Plus, if there is anyway to move the gear forward, i'll give it a try. I do understand your point about the thick balsa leading edge being used as a mount area for the gear.

Sorry, if I'm coming off like a JERK, but that's not my intention. There are a lot of ARF's out there, especially the CMP models that people in RCU have done a little extra detail and modificaton and have come up with some fabulous looking models, that look right on the ground and in the air.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

I don't think you are trying to be a jerk, I just think you chose a poor way to illustrate your point. What you should have done is show a picture of a Top Flite 60 size ARF, assembled, and from the same angle as the full scale. If you opt not to use the above mentioned model, then why not another model ( such as the wing) but again: from the same vantage point.

And I agree: moving the wheels farther forward is very beneficial for ground handling, especially on grass runways.

Either way, I don't want to take up any more cyberspace with this. It wastes my time and makes it more challenging for readers to find useful info.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Done, Corsair Jock!

Let's see some picture of that Model being built!

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

CorsairJock,
I had no idea the dowls were plastic. I was looking for wood dowls...this is a first time for me to see a change from wood dowls to plastic dowls. I've had issues with wood dowls, working lose and waring away. I usually fix this with brass tubing, but it's a nice touch.

To be honest...I'm very inpressed with the model. I've built a few ARF's now...and I remember when all we had for an ARF company was Lanier. I must admit...all the Lanier models flew well enough...but the construction left much to be desired. I've been building ARF WWII fighters for ten years...and with out a doubt, this is one of the better renditions of the P-51D that I have ever seen. It has flaps, and the mechanical retracts look stronger then any other ARF in this size, that I've ever seen. I usually installed Robart mechanicals in all my ARF WWII fighters-but not this one, and the attention to detail is amazing. I am impressed, and for the money...to me, it's well worth the cost. I've built the old red box P-51D Top Flight put out 30 years ago, and several others after. This is one nice Mustang... : )

I'm still stumped on what engine to put into this airframe. I'm a two stroke guy, and I've never owned or flown four stroke engines. I see your going to use a four stroke...what make and displacement engine are you going to put into your model ?

I have a set of C.J. P-51 retracts in my P-51B...I wonder if they will fit into this airframe ? But I would like an air up, spring down air system.

I would install a tail wheel retract unit into this kit, like on my "B"...but I'm not real happy with the Robart plastic tail wheel retract unit...and I don't know anyone that makes a metal one that would fit into this model. It's going to be a bit if magic to do it anyway...and its realy kind of tight in this area to work in.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CorsairJock,
Well...I figured out what engine I'm going to use, and I had the flippen engine all the time... : ) . I'm going to install a K&B 1.00, and it drops right into the nose bay, with room to spare. This engine was purchased from Mr. C. Lee years ago, and I never had a model I would risk it in...until now. Its going to need a spacer...not a big one and I'm not sure exactlly how I will do this now. There is an issue with the exhaust on the engine, because this engine will be inverted, inside the cowl...the exhaust exits the top starboard side of the upper fixed cowl, above the scale exhaust area. I will need to modify the exhaust...but it fits easily into the model.

With the carb so low I will need to place my fuel tank as low as I can into the nose of this model.

I'm going to trial fit the C. Jet pneumatic retractable main gear tomorrow and I'll let you know how well they fit into the wing. If they fit...I'm going to exchange the gear from my "B" into this "D."

Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Wow, I think thats the coolest engine set up I have ever seen.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CorsairJock,
I called Clarence Lee on the phone this morning, and he will be able to modify my muffler, so it can sit inverted in the model, and the exhaust to exit down. So the K&B 1.00 Aero is going into the model (I wonder if this is to much engine for this kit?). I am actually buying a new muffler from K&B, for they were in stock, and they will drop ship the new muffler to Mr. Lee for me (he is just around the corner from them in California) to modify. I need to get to work...so I'll check the C.J. P-51 retracts later this afternoon and will report what I find.

I did check my wheels and I do have a pair of Robart 3 1/4" scale wheels...just like I have in my P-51B. I may still buy the 3 1/2" wheels...and undecided yet to go with the wheels I have or opt for the larger ones.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

It seems to be a nice ARF. As usual the markings are after thoughts on most ARFs and not really good on this one either.

A lot of guys are going to spend effort putting scale touches and modifications to this airplane then stick the innaccurate US insignia on. It would be so easy for the maunufacturer to do a little research and make the US insignia right.

The stars are too small for the size blue circle and 1/8 surround, and the white bars do not reach in and touch the left and right star tips. They make ARFs look like toys. I will make a set out of monokote to replace them. Since the US insignia is the result of some simple geometry formula, a compass and ruler are all that is required.

Look closely at your research documentation for any P-51 or WWII aircraft for that matter. Any ole' star and bar won't do.

You guys are doing some great work on your kits so far.

Chris

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Well OK then Chris, let's compare:
The side markings do not appear to be an exact match, as you suggested, but not that far off either. The most obvious difference to me is the dorsal fin: it needs to be removed (which is what I planned on doing anyway).

In any event, since you know so much, perhaps you could help us less informed and tell us what the correct sizes should be (for 1/7th scale)?

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

CorsairJock,
The Century Jet P-51 retracts will fit, but it will be a tight fit. I'm not sure how much of the fiberglass wheel well I'll need to remove and in my next post...I'll let you know. I will have to go with the 3 1/4" Robart scale wheels, for it is going to be a snug fit with these...3 1/2" wheels will not work, unless I cut my strut 1/4". I will need to modify and cut a bit to get the retracts to fit, but they will go. I was surprised they fit...and while I'm in there, I'll take a good look at the mounting rails. I have always beefed up this area on my other WWII ARF's...all needed this mod too. I will know more after a little surgery and fit these pneumatics, into the wing. I placed the gear inverted in the pictures to show the fit...but it gets turned around for instilation. I'm going to make up some 50/50 denatured alcohol-2 your epoxy, and coat every thing I can reach in the retract area.

I use Airtronics gear...and will go with standard 94102's for my flaps and ailerons.

It may take me a week or two to get my engine muffler and final the engine instilation. But I will be able to mount my engine and then, figure out where to mount my remote needle valve. I've never used a remote needle valve before, so this should be interesting.

Have a great weekend everyone...
Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

CorsairJock,

For most folks the ARF is fine as is. The problems with the US Insignia provided on the decal sheet would go un-noticed by most. So would the fact that C5*T as you pointed out, did not have a dorsal fin.

My comments pertain to the US Insignia only. Most people don't care or wouldn't notice. So below is for those who do.

The overall sizes are close, however it is not the size of the insignia that is wrong. It is the relationship of the white and blue parts of the insignia and how they go together. Repeating what I said in the previous post:

The stars are too small for the size blue circle and 1/8 surround, and the white bars do not reach in and touch the left and right star tips. Look closely again at any photo of a Mustang or any WWII aircraft of the period. Compare them with the decal.

The US Insignia is made up by combining three subparts
a. The star
b. The blue circle
c. the bars

All parts are proportioned based on the radius of the star. So...

a. The star tips shouldn't touch the edge of the blue circle; however , they should come within 1/8 of the star radius of the circle's edge. On the decal the white star is too small. The blue circle may be the right size for the airplane though. The star isn't.
b. The blue circle should be sized to the aircraft so that: It's radius is equal to the star's, plus 1/8th of the star's radius.
c. The bars (not including the blue edges) should equal the star's radius in length. There should also be no space between the inner top bar corner and the left and right tips of the star. Look at the decals. The tips of the star do not touch the white bars. Look again at a photo of the real insignia.

As I've said, most people don't care and wouldn't notice. I've even seen people place the insignia up side down on their models. My work background forced me to insure markings on the US military aircraft I was responsible for was done correctly due to the thousands of dollars involved. It has been handy in my scale modelling in case you're wondering.

Chris

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Just signing up for the thread. I just got one on order with the OS 91 II. I figured the 91 was cheap enough and sounds like it should fly it just fine.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

OK Chris, I see your point: the stars ARE too small for the background/ too much border area. I did a quick check of my Major Decals inventory and they are only slightly better. Oh well.

Saito Users, NOTE: The spinner adapter nuts are 5/16 x 24 thread (for O.S. 4 strokes and mosr 2 strokes). BUMMER! That means you may have to purchase something seperately from Tower or otherwise to get youe spinner to bolt up to your engine. The Saito 1.00 has 8 mm x 1.25 thread, so this adapter may work.
Maybe this one? May need to buy a long 10 x 32 allen bolt tho:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB957&P=K

OR, for a few dollars more:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMF3&P=K

I have been removing weight from my fuselage: seems theres a lot of wood thate doesn't really need to be there, especially since I will be powering mine with electric power. I have removed a total 0f 71 grams/ 2.5 oz. Here are pics of lightening holes:

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CorsiairJock,
I set my C.J. retract into the left wing tonight. It went in with minamal work...but there is one issue I'm not real happy with. the wheel sticks out of the wing a bit. To lower the retracts, I would need to cut down the mounting rails...then add more hard wood underneath the mouting rails for proper support. If you look...you will see that the 3 1/4" Robart scale wheel just fits into the wheel wheel. With the C.J. P-51 retracts, that is the largest wheel that will fit...unless you cut your strut 1/4"...then a 3 1/2" wheel will fit.

I also added a small piece of 1/64th. ply to stabilze the area I needed to cut out to allow the gear to retract, and also to cover the spring area for the mechanical retracts-no longer in use. The kit also has you install the air tank in the fuse, and I am going to see if I can fit every thing on or in the wing. I did remove the mechanical retract tube in wing-wheel well, used for the actuation rod.

I'm also going to add full wing invasion strips to this model, and I need to do this for visability in flight. With all the green around our flying site...it really helps. I know a few of you scale purists might cry in your beer at this... : )...but I doubt few will know the difference.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Bob, Looks pretty good, but could be better. Maybe CJ will start making sets specically for this bird, that are just like your's only with shorter struts? Looks like they could be 1/4 ~ 1/2" shorter? Think you could shorten them some? Sure would be nice to see some slightly bigger wheels in there. BTW: I am now committed to using the stock retracts with RoboStruts installed, I hope I don't regret that decision. By doing so, I am limited to wheels which are just under 3 1/2".

As for the wheel poking out of the well: I noticed that the retract mount rails are not parallel with the bottom of the wing, and are at least partly responsible for the problem. I plan on using the stock retracts, but with the struts shortened (3/4" off the tops) and reversed so that the strut coils move the struts DEEPER into the wheel wells, rather that farther out. I plan to install offset RoboStruts on the stock, but shortened wire struts, just below the coils. This should result in something very simular to your's. BUT, if the wheels are poking out of the wells, I plan to use a Ernst motor thrust offset plate, cut into 4 strips and install between the retract units and the retract rails, so that the gears units will be parallel to the bottom of the wings, and hopefully allow FULL retraction.

My RoboStruts will arrive on Tuesday, I'll be working 12 hour days again, so I probably won't have any results to post until at least Wed. evening.
BTW: my Robart retractable nosewheel with 1/8" diameter strut arrives same day (which I plan on converting to retractable tailwheel). Too bad they didn't arrive before this weekend: I finally have a little time to work on it but I don't have the parts I need.

Speaking of retractable tailwheel: there are not any good/ easy options. The Robarts are not really well suited for this bird, niether is the CenturyJet mechanical tailwheel which is supposedly a P-51 retract. For one thing: the Mustang tailwheel retrafts FORWARD into the fuselage, not to the rear. This has me looking at mechanical nosewheel retracts designed to '.25 ~ .40 size' planes, and which I hope to adapt a Sullivan sprung tailwhhel strut to. Currently, I have B&D unit which I picked up at the Toledo show for $20. It houses a 1/8" diameter strut and has a steering arm which can easily be set up for pull-pull operation. I just checked the Robart specs and it appears that their unit is slightly bigger, and does not included an arm which can be set up for pull-pull.
Now, I just spotted this one, and would like to know more about it (dimension/ strut diameter):
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=HAN159
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...cat=691&page=1

The price is ceratinly right, and it does have an arm which can be set up for pull-pull. Anybody have one that can post some specs?

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

For the Saito you need Tru Turn pc#0823A. It is more expensive but you should really use a double jam nut on the four strokes.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Right on, lrb75. I just updated my previous post to reflect that. I apparently posted the Dave Brown link twice by mistake.

I just installed the instrument panel directly into the cockpit, without adding the other 3 'detail' parts. Reason: the 3 parts did not have good alignment (other decal did not line up with the plywood holes), as can be seen in the manual. I therefor decided that it would look no better, even possibly worse, while adding 1/4 oz, so I decided to leave the 3 parts off. I used 6 minute epoxy to glue the instrument panel (complete with the paper backing) to the 'dash'.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CoresairJock,
Where do I get the spacers your talking about ? I want a set for my landing gear. It's not a difficult to pull the retracts apart, knock out the roll pin, and cut the legs sorter by 1/4 to 3/8" shorter. You would need to drill a new hole in the struts for the roll pin, but not that big a deal. It would be nice if some one would come out with a retract unit for this kit, that would fit proper and the correct strut length, to install a pair of 3 1/2" Robart scale wheels.

I tried to order a tail wheel retract assy. from both the companies, all are out of stock. You memtioned that your going to use the Sullivan sprung tail wheel assy...where you considering using the 10~22# unit ? Having a little give back here would be nice, for I do love to practice my landings...and I'm really hell on landing gear. The stock unit does not give you much of a bounce, but most my tail wheels on my WWII fighters where like the stock unit in this kit. If I ended up damanging the tail wheel that much...usually...I had much more to be concerned about then a bent tail wheel... : )

Today I'm installing the port wing landing gear, and figure out a way to get the main landing gear doors to work. Then I'll work on installing the servo's into both wings.

As to the cocpit instument panel. I plan on painting the wood frame black. Stick the instruments, sticker into the forward cocpit, set the clear plastic insturment lens cover over this, then place the cut and painted wood instument panel over all of it. Try it and see if it doesn't work out for you. I'm going to do it tonight...and I'll take pictures.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CorsairJock,
Going through my assembly manual...I noticed that I couldn't find anything on installing the retracts...and wonder of wonders...I found an "up grade notice" in the box. It also showed you the beef up kit for the main landing gear... : )...and just what the doctor ordered. Now I'm confident the main landing gear attachment will hold up to my landings.

I installed my cocpit intstument panel, and it looks right nice.

When I ordered my T.F. P-51D, I also ordered a second "D" cocpit interior. I needed this for my P-51B, and I also needed a new canopy for my "B." I used Top Flight spray paint to paint my first canopy, and the plastic deformed so bad, I had to toss the canopy. I then called Sig...and ordered their P-51B conopy (half the cost of the T.F. canopy and its painted too) and it fit like a glove...and then installed the Top Flight "D" interior kit into the "B." It may not be scale...but it sure looks better then having nothing in there at all.

I'm now going back to my starbard wing panel and installing the "up grade" to beef up the main landing gear. I'm still stumped on how to attach my main gear doors.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Available in 3 different sizes, this one should work for landing gear mounts:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE951&P=SM

I forgot which one I have, but the diameter is somthing like 7/32" diameter? I had to solder a 1/8" OD grass tube to the post part to get it to fit right in a retract unit designed for 1/8" struts.


I am going to give these a try (WHEN they errive):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...01p??&I=LXES73

I may have to add some spacers tho.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Corsairjock, thank you for starting such a nice thread. My kit arrived on Fri. the 23rd. and then I left for the holiday weekend. Got home on Mon. and went thru the kit and everything looks great. Can you tell me where you got the nice color three view dwg. of the full scale? I would like to use it for markings reference, panel lines, etc. I will start planning my build tonite. Am thinking of creating a full cockpit and using a full pilot figure from C. J. Thanks again and keep up the great work.

Scott

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Here is one website. Clicking on some of the pictures opens a new page, with drawings, photos of the full scale, and additional details:
http://www.cebudanderson.com/modgal2.htm

Here's another:
http://www.littlefriends.co.uk/galle...list&Group=357

And one more:
http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/f/165

BYW: I decided that I want mine to look a little different/ don't want to show up at a warbird event and see one just like mine, so I am modeling mine after Shoo Shoo Baby, notice how I turned the "T" into an "L".

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hi Guys,
A word of caution about removing the dorsel fin. Did you ever wonder why it was added on the later D models in the first place? It wasn't because it looked spiffy. It was because when North American Aviation redesigned the fuse to incorperate the bubble canopy they did not realise it was reducing the aerodynamic side area off the fuse and the new D model was more difficult to recover from a spin (Some Didn't). So they had to add the dorsel fin for more stability. Same thing happened with the P-47. So if you remove the dorsil fin from the model be carefull not to spin it close to the ground. I witnessed an old topflite kit D model with out the fin spin all the way to the ground from a about 200 ft. One thing I have learned about aircraft real or models. There isn't anything on them that doesnt have a valid reason for being there.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Hay CorsairJock,
Thanks for the information. But I'm a little confused about the landing gear wedges. I had invisioned a rectangle shaped wedge, not a round one. Are you able to cut these wedges to fit under the retractable landing gear ? Some where in my past I saw wedges that some one made, that slipped right under the gear, slick and easy...but who, I just don't remember.

As to the gear doors...I beat you to it...I had mine arrive today. Neat little gizmo's arn't they...I will need to knock out the roll pin to install the sleave, but thats easy to do. I've also an idea on how to modify my landing gear a bit, and using the sleave, get the gear doors on solid. My concern is that they may stick out a bit...so I am praying the wedges do their thing, and lower the gear leg into the wheel well better.

My landing gear attachment rails are not parallel with the skin of the wing and just as you stated in an eariler post...so I will deal with it, one way or another.

Another club member just bought his T.F. P-51D so there will be two that I know of flying soon.

I used two hour epoxy, and all my landing gear reinforment parts are installed and drying.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Ok , thank you. [8D]I also was able to just print the three view you had in another post I got started last nite with getting out the sealing iron and went over all the covering. I read on the Top Flite product page for this arf a nice how article for preparing the covering on arf models. It's a pdf. file listed on the bottom of the page. What I found very helpfull was the suggestion to go over all the covering even if you see no loose wrinkles or small bubbles. I took my time and spent about 2 hrs. just going over the flying surfaces. I will do the fuse tonite. I will say that this is one of the best Monocote covered arfs I have ever got right out of box so the ironing went real easy.:) I plan to use the three views and apply panels lines using a TF panel line pen I got from Tower. I have some flexible steel rules to use and I will do some practice lines on my H9 Hellcat. Anyone out there have some tips for using one of these pens? I will post some pics when I get some of it done.


Scott

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Use alcohol to erase your mistakes, and you will have to clear coat now, That will add weight.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Ty Manfred, you are a good German:D I will start the panel lines tonite and practice on the tail surfaces. I think a lite coat of TF flat clear will work and keep the wt. down. Finished the flaps and ail. install last nite and all went well. In reply to a post from CorsairJock my flap install went something like this. Push the hinges all the way into the flap and rotate until hinge points are square to the flap. Measure the length of hinge that sticks out from flap L.E. for ref. and then push the flap into the wing. check the flap movement and clear out the flap pockets as needed. When satisfied remove the flap and mix the epoxy. I like to drop the epoxy into the holes with a sharp stick. Now insert the hinges into the flap and use the ref. measurment for all three hinges. Square them up again and drop the epoxy into the wing holes. Now insert the flap and position per instr. Move the flap down to proper travel and this will self align the hinges. This is why it's a good idea to use 30 min. epoxy cause it gives you time to work the flap in. What I did'nt like was my flaps were a little off from side to side and I did'nt want to open up the hinge holes to reposition them. They were'nt that bad so I just let it go.[:'(]


Scott

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

What are you guys using for fuel tanks? I'm thinking the stock one may be a bit too small? I'm installing a Saito 1.20 in mine.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Actually, one of the best references for panel lines, access hatches/ covers, etc would be one of the".........in Scale and Detail" bookelts (about $15?) from Squadron/ Signal. I'm sure that have a Mustang one, which would have scale 3 views (probably in 1/72 scale) containing all the panel lines of all Mustang models. Additionally, they usually have photograghs which show many details.
Another source is one of the fine Tamiya plastic model kits.

As for my fuel tank: I am using a pair of 3S 5000mAH Lipo packs in series. I've got a feeling that most will using the stck fuel tank. Unless one puts a bigger than normal engine in it, AND intends to run full throttle most of the time: I would think the stock tank would work well. This should be a fast plane, even without a big engine. Mustangs are more streamlined than many other warbirds.

Bob Paris: I suggest that you re-read the description of the thrust plates, and I cut mine into strips for adjusting the retract mounting angle. They are not round. The strips go between the retracct units and the mounting rails.

I am mounting my RoboStruts to the retracts, and it is a lot of work (IF using stock retracts). For one thing: the Robart insterts must be drilled out to 5mm (maybe 5.1 would be better), which is no easy task. The holes must STRAIGHT and TRUE. I messed up the first one, then discovered that if I chuck the insert into the drill press, then clamp the drill bit into the drill vise: the holes will come up true.

Looks like my 3 1/2" Dave Brown wheels will fit with only a slight modification to the RoboStruts: a little grinding of the bottom parts will get me the clearance, and it appears that it will not compromise the structural integrity of the struts.

Looks like Top Flight intended the flaps to be driven from the same channel: both flap cover hatches are identical, meaning the servos can be setup to operate in the same direction. I'm gonna have 14 channels to play with, so I think I'll reverse one of mine and put it on a seperate channel.
And BTW Thorprops: my (installed) flaps look to be slightly out of alignment also, but like your's: not bad enough to be worth re-drilling the holes.

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Set up the flaps on separate channels, reverse one then tie them both to the same knob (I did this in my 9C).

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
 

Did another google search last nite and found the Hobbico GP P51D kit instructs. for the old 40-60 size kit in pdf. On the back page there was a real nice three view with very clear panel line lay out. The copy off my printer came out great and was able to get started inking the lines. Almost finished one top wing panel in about an hr. and the rest will go a little faster. This is a first for me so I just take my time and have fun with it :) . I don't plan to replicate every last rivet and hatch cause it will be too time consuming for me. . . but I'll see how it goes. In reply to Submikester I also have a 9C but I cheaped out and bought a 8ch. receiver for the stang. I guess I will have to Y the flap servos together per the instructs. I do have a Y reversing harness if that might make it easire to set the center point on one side? Can you tell me which knob/switch to prog. on the TX for the flaps? This is my 1st. flap set up so I have some new things to learn but I an going to enjoy the new exper. :D Will try to get some pics up soon but there will be some things for me to learn on that also. I hav'nt had any luck with making my Avitar either[:'(]


Scott




" If you're not the lead dog. . . the view never changes! '