RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

TSky28,
I pick up a new OS 1.20 four stroke today at a local trade show that I think I will install in the Top Flite P-40 60 size arf. I have the same engine in the Top Flite P-51 60 size arf and I enjoy flying her. That engine has tons of power and the P-51 love it. A lot of mod's that are in this thread, I will be doing to my bird. I have a few more thing to do on the Top Flite Cessna 310 and to get it maiden, so I can start working on the P-40!!
This is going to be a fun build!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Mine weighs 12 lbs. High wing loading. 1.5 times the wing loading of a H9 warbird.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

hi again

progress is going well on the p-40, I had robart retracts and struts for the kit version of this plane.  I also have 4"diamond tread goodyears made by sullivan.  I'm not an air retracts guy and don't want to start a debate as to which to use.  My problem is that with everything installed at 100 psi, 1 side tries to come out, the other barely flinches, if I help them they both retract up nicely, this is with the wing upside down, is this normal?  Should they both raise and lower unaided, at any wing orientation, or have I done something wrong?  Any feedback would be appreciated.  Thanks again

Travis

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

I had a similar problem with the Robarts in mine also, I pumped up the pressure a little more and oiled all the hingepoints and they worked fine and held air for over 24 hrs.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Trax79;
One more thing you need to check to see if all air lines are not pinch. If a line is pinch, like the up or down line, the gear may move barely or not at all. The way to check the lines, is to have no air in the system and retract the gear by hand. If you feel any pressure in the up or down move, than you have a pinch line. Now to unlock the gears, just use a small flat screw driver and move the rod to unlock the gear. I hope this help. I do this on all my air system to find any problem!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

My wing loading is 38 oz/ft²

17.1 Wing Cube Loading

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Allright boys.... Sad day in mudville. My Checker-tailed Devil lasted for about 30 seconds. I'm as positive as I can be that I lost left flap authority. Flaps down, Plenty of speed on the takeoff roll. Rotated and flew off the ground on its own. Started slowly drifting to the left which wasn't a panic with a new untrimmed aircraft. I started to climb above the tree line and then started to make my turn back around towards me. Here I noticed little result from my right bank commands. Added some rudder, which produced some right bank, enough to guide back around and toward the runway. as I approached the runway from the side, I had to progressively hold in more right ail to keep it level. I flicked on hi-rates to get more surface throw which allowed for more right bank. Around the time I realized I was approaching full stop on the rudder and ails to keep just about wings level, I noticed the shape of my wings to be asymetric. Right wing seemed a little fatter than left. At this point the aircraft was traveling away and to my right with my view being from the right rear. Now I was starting to get worried. I was mulling the idea of releasing my heavy right input to allow the aircraft to bank/turn left, which obviously it wanted to do. Before I could change tactics, it appear the left wing lost a good portion of its lift, the right wing kept its lift and the death spiral ensued. Engine ran frackin' great. Straight into the ground. Fuse split at the leading edge. Wing crushed and torn in several spots including what looks to be a swept leading edge, retracts are both toast. The spinner is crushed in with one prop blade not recovered. The engine seems to turn over pretty well and smooth so I am hoping the spinner and prop saved any damage to the engine.


Pour one out for me boys.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

TSky28;
I am so sorry to hear and see your lost. I have been in this hobby for over 40 years and I still don't like to see a plane go down. This past Friday, I lost my Top Flite P-51 60 ARF to the lost of right flap authority on short final. My bird did the same thing your plane did. I don't know if the right flap servo came un-plug in flight or from the crash, but it was not working at the crash-site. When I return to the pit with what left of the P-51, I plug the servo back in and it was working. Sound like you put in a great fight to save her. Again, sorry for your lost. Like one of my old flying friend told me back in the 70's fly hard, fly safe, and if you crash, rebuild for another day!!!
Take care!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Wow. I'm sorry to hear the news of your loss TSky28. These things take time to build up and so it is always more than just "oh well." Hopefully you will get back in the air soon. My flaps did exactly the same as I was setting them up on the bench...fine one moment then the next one came down all by itself. All I could do was picture a good approach gone wrong as one flap decide to go berserk! I returned the "expert" brand servo reverser and went with the HobbyKing Turnigy version...everything works very well now. I did not use flaps on take off as this bird seems to get off the ground just fine without.

A little off topic but relevant here. Check out my recent video footage shot by me at a local air show. If you like warbirds you will like this:recorded in true HD And Dolby surround sound

Note there are 3 parts!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a02bUoKyfYI


Quick update on my P40: Tried to fly her two weeks ago but hit a bump on initial roll out causing it to fly early. I tried to get her back down but she touched back down in an uncoordinated fashion and nosed over, pulling out one of my retracts and screwing up one of my home made oleos. I should have just punched it and flown her out (hindsight is golden)! Looks like the pins were wearing the holes into oblong openings causing slop anyway so it was a chance to do an upgrade. They are fixed now and are far stronger in that area. During the repairs I also added a functioning scoop up front on the cowl and radio mast - fun stuff that make s it look more like a p40. tomorrow we try to fly her again but the weather does not look good here in Michigan....60% rain....we'll see...

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Are some people using servo reversers on their flaps? The photos in the manual suggest staggering the flap servos so one is facing outwards and one is facing inwards. That negates the need of another weak link in the chain. Stay away from servo reversers unless impossible to do so...

http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/t...0-4view-lg.jpg

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Mike,

Yes, I am using a servo reverser on my flaps due to the method used to actuate them ( I'm out of channels on my receiver too). I have used a pocket and cam design to actuate both flaps and ailerons on this bird. The benefit of this is nothing shows externally. No clevis, control horns, etc., Nothing and very aerodynamic too. In addition they are slop free and most of the force during flying is taken by the hardened and bent music wire captured in the control surface by the formica pocket. I'm testing these on this model in hopes of adding them to a large 80" Zero with radial engine I plant to build over the winter. The downside of this setup is that I could not re orientate the flap servos without major reworking of the wing skin and a few ribs, not worth the effort hence, the implementation of the reverser. A benefit of the one I'm using is that you can also control the speed as well as direction of the servos. I have the flaps deploy slowly for a more scale look and in flight is a more gentle transition to deployed flap mode so there is no pitch up or elevator coupling needed.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

No reverser for me either. I am using RDS pocket drivers on the main wing as well. Upon investigation, The left flap link is no longer housed in its servo interface. The damn thing slid out and away from the flap servo and deeper into the wing allowing the left flap to do as it pleases which in flight would probably mean retracting. I guess if I had identified that right off, I might have retracted the flaps and maybe survived. The right flap and the ailerons are controlled in the same manner but exhibit no evidence of this condition. Of course I can't be sure the link didn't pop out on impact. A servo test will see if the servos are still alive, once I can see through the tears... :) Ugghh

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Do you have the 1st or second gen RDS? The setup on these can be a bit tricky. Use a bright light and a magnifier (no disrespect here... I have 20/ 20 vision and still find this helpful) if need be to watch them closely as they move through their range. When in motion, does the tube going into the servo interface slide too much? A little is okay and part of the design actually. There is the "sweet" spot for them to work well and still be captured. Check your angle and dimensions, if everything is set up properly they are captive and cannot come out, especially if the flaps are deployed.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

2nd gen. But I am able to pull the rod assembly out of the white plastic on that side. I thought the pocket would keep it from doing that but I guess I put in wrong.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

What to do with this DLE-20 now? I need to put it in something while this thing cools off and gets rebuilt.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

I guess that is the beauty of ARFS. I love to build but find little time to do so these days. I stopped building the Tf P40 60 sized kit a while back when I heard the ARF was on the way as this is a stepping stone plane to a giant version I plan to build in the future. Frankly, as arfs have gotten better both in terms of build quality and design as well as scale outline they have become serious contenders, (Especially if you spend some time adding details to them) wether we like it or not. Often times you almost couldn't build from a kit for the same cost of an arf, add in the cost of your time to do so and there is a serious case to be made for the ARF. I'll probably never stop building but only "special" projects now.

The DLE will go into a lot of planes....If you just want to get back up and flying quickly perhaps you could find a good swap shop / internet plane begging for an engine? It's good to have a back up plane ready for the flying season anyway, just for cases like this.

Hard to tell on the linkage after a crash. I wish you well on the rebuild TSky28!

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Had a similar problem with a kit built TF P-40. Getting ready to land, gear down, then put flaps down and plane started rolling left. Figured it was the flaps since it started just when I put down the flaps. Had some altitude and was able to control the roll with the ailerons and pulled flaps up and landed ok. The linkage had come off at the horn on the right flap. Also had intermittent flaps extensions on a plane with a reverser. Changed things around and used Y connection and problem went away.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Hi fellas,

Been a while since I posted here. Weather and work schedule have kept me from flying regularly as well as some fuel delivery issues (scratched my head for a while on this) kept me grounded. Funny how you can tear apart the entire fuel system and miss the fact that the O ring in the two part fuel filter had slipped out of it's place inside and obstructed the fuel flow! Oh well, at least I didn't have to bust back into the tank. Anyway, I have added my rear gear doors. they look a bit rough as they have not been painted yet but they do seem to work very well. I'll attach a pic and vid link(if I can) as it was a discussion here a while back.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Aluminum...6?feature=mhee

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

spectacular.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

Hey Mike,

It's time to try a 3 blade on my P40....Is this spinner the "standard style" 4", cut for 3 blade, version of the Dave Brown spinner or the "Vortec" version? Any pics you can post of it on your P40, Mike?

Been a good couple of weeks flying mine. I have had the occasional gremlin to case but it's all working well. I have added a muffler. and a more elegant control mechanism for my tail wheel gear doors. I'll post a few pics and some vid from some of our late season formation practice sometime in the near future.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

A little off topic as it involves a kit built TF P-40, but I'm wondering what you P-40 fans think. I'm converting to gas and installing a DLE 20 in the P-40. I find I'm not flying it much as I don't want to drag out the glow stuff and clean up the mess afterwards. I'm planning on using a J-Tec compact pitts muffler. However, I had problems with a DLE installed in a TF Mustang w/pitts muffler. Finally found the engine was vapor locking, probably because of too much heat to the carb from the muffler and not good airflow through the upper rear of the engine compartment. Finally solved problem by ducting air from the scoop under the prop up to the carb area. Anyone operating a TF P-40 with a DLE 20 and pitts muffler? Any problems?

Next, I have a BH Models P-40C cowling and am thinking about coverting to a C model. I've found a 3.5" spinner which will work. This cowl has a little more room in it because it is all fiberglass instead of the built up balsa upper cowl the kit built has. Also has a nice big scoop on top for ducting back to the carb area. I will have to cut off the balsa upper cowl to do this but I think it would work. Which way to go "C" or "E"? What do you think.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

The stock"E" cowling is the better of the 2, in my opinion. You can open up the scoop...






Here's the 14x9 3-blade and spinner.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

I like it! https://www.quebec-team.net/images/smilies/+1.gif

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

You could simply use the one piece cowl from the arf...it's all glass too and prepainted. you probably will need to make a few mods to the fuse but pretty straight forward.

Not sure about the gasser. Some of the guys at our filed have them but they seem to add as many issues as they solve over glow. For me I don't fly gallons thru every week (been there, done that) so fuel consumption is not as much of an issue as the simplicity of glow and especially the sound of multiple four strokes filling the sky with sound. Pure music and we get many spectators who just come every week to see and hear them run.....not gonna happen with 2 strokes no matter how they are muffled! Just my opinion of corse....Note the link to vid I just posted...you can hear 2 strokes and 4 running together. Simple choice for me...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4rrm6LTzHo


Mike:
Thanks for the pic post......Nice looking bird and spinner....is it the Dave Brown standard or Vortec style?

I have added a few more things and changed others on my model. Although the original exhaust setup was working well it was a bit too loud. So, I added a muffler from performance specialties and a high temp silicone connector which failed after only 2 flights! It wasn't even directly subject to the exhaust either! I made an aluminum cuff to span the flex tube and muffler and new hold downs and an aluminum diverter in back (press fitted, pinned and jb welded on). I'll make it all pretty once I see it's holding. I also moved and changed out my remote glow as you can see in the pix to near the fueling area. The other one I had was problematic and undependable. Rear gear doors now have better more scale looking connectors but I had to add some additional hold downs in the form of pins to keep them from coming off, worked well, again, I'll make it look nice later.

RE: New Top Flite P-40 60 sized arf
 

I've proceeded with the conversion. I've decided to go with the "C" version because I already have the cowling and cut off the balsa upper cowl. I've found I need a smaller spinner. 3.5" instead of 4". Also the propeller shaft line in quit a bit lower 1/2" than the "E" and it looks like I'll have to cut a small hole in the bottom of the cowl for a small part of the plug boot. I've got the engine mounted and throttle and choke hooked up. Next is fuel system and then cowl installation. I'm using a smaller gas tank with gas. Looks like over all I'll have a small wtg. reduction which the plane needs. Looks like lots of room in cowl so cooling should not be a problem. Out of town working for 3-4 days so project is delayed.