sherwoodGS

nitrosportsandrunner

i have the same parts ready to go on my E 8E if the stock parts fail.
sure does look nice!

SC-RCer

Today I justreceived the steering arms for my EQ3.0 and wondered what size screw I need for connecting the tie rod to the steering arm. The stock screws have course thread for going into the plastic. What thread size and length did you use? I was surprised Redcat doesn't supply these with the arms. The only hardware that came with them was the 4 screws and bushings that mount into the top and bottom of each steering arm.

They do look sweet but a good coat of red clay and they will look just like the rest of the truck. LOL!!!

brew99

Did you need to file the arms a bit to get the c hubs to fit? Did you use the plastic washers? I did this upgrade on my calder 10e and found that it didn't quite fit without filing the plastic of the arms

sherwoodGS

everything went together with no filing required.  all proper machine screws came with the alloy parts.  not sure which plastic washers you are referring to but i did not use them, shoul di have???  i did use lock tight on the scres that hold in the knuckles.  plus, i only did one side.  i think i will wait to do the other.  looks a little funny but who cares, right?

1ofmyfuns

Man that looks real nice, Iknow that is what I will end up doing to my Backdraft.

If you rememberIposted the pics and info of the repair I did on one of my Knuckles the other day and was hoping I wouldn't have to worry about that issue for a while..........NOT.......!

Itook it out today for the first time and 1 1/2 tanks into running it aroung the yard and BAM.......just made a low speed turn and the other front wheel leaned out at the bottom just like the other had done and when Igot the buggy eased back to me wouldn't you know..... that lower screw on that side had broke off flush up in the knuckle HUB just like the other one did, never jumped this buggy and has only been out and ran 5 or 6 times and almost everytime I start the thing up something breaks, I aint qit on it yet but dang-it Icant even get 2 tanks of fuel through it before something breaks and it's been like this since day one almost...... :-{

So I got out both of my Traxxas Nitro Sport Trucks fired them up and ran the crap out of them about 3 tanks through each, took them over to where Imade a couple hills for hopping over and jumped-em and actually summersaulted them at a high rate of speed and wouldnt ya know it nothing bent or broke.

Iknow they will break also and actually the Backdraft does have some pretty durable features, but all the weak spots are killing me right now...............! :-) all I want to do is be able to take this Buggy out and run it and enjoy it for more than 10-15 minutes without a breakage, I would love to bash the heck out of it and do a few small jumps and stuff but Icant keep it going on flat ground for more than a tank or two without it breaking something, little alone jump it or rough it up a little.

Truthfully though Ithink once Iget the front hub issue resolved it will be pretty durable, I have the Steel Spur, I have shimmed the diffs, i pulled the tranny and checked it out and put some high quality grease in it, so it seems that the hubs are maybe and hopefully my last weakest link, everything else seems to be holding up great the best I can tell, but Iwont know for sure until Iget those hubs to stay together.

In the meantime Ihave the Nitro Sports and they really are holding up nice, I did break the servo saver on one of them but I pulled it off and just super glued it backtogether where it broke and Iran it hard and tumbled it real hard once and the glue held and it's still good to go,
Ijust hope the New Redcat Electric Stadium Truck holds up well, I plan for one of them to be my first electric possibly, Imay wait to see if others like them first before Iput the cash out there......but I'll bet they will be pretty good for whatthey are.

Very nice upgrade sherwoodGS Iguess I'll have to do the same to keep mine together and use some good qualityscrews like Idid on the other one, be sure and let us know how you like the new setup.

Peace, Shan

JTuepker1

It broke cause it was jealous of the over sides makeover.

1ofmyfuns

Yeah thats a good one, maybe it was just wanting to be at it's best too......

It's actually kinda funny about it breaking though because right after I fixed the other side Ithought seriously about just going ahead and doing the left side too while Iwas at it, but Ididn't and here Iam having to fix it now and it would have been much easier to have done it then rather than now.

Ishould have have just listened to that dang little bird who was trying to tell me to do it and Ididn't and now Isure wish I had......

No biggy though, i'm just gonna fix it and also order the upgrades and when even one of them gives it up again I'll just throw in the good stuff... and throw the bad stuff over the dang fence........ or maybe use them for fish-in sinkers!

sherwoodGS

like i said i ran through 3 sets of 5200 batteries today and the thing was uber fast.  i flipped it a few times on hard pavement in 32 degree weather and no problems.  i think this new alloy set up is sweet. 

formula87

Looks great I will picking those up for mine soon. Kurt is the man!

brew99

I was referring to the plastic o-washers that should have been on there originally with the plastic parts. They slide over the hinge pin that connects the c hubs to the arm (2 per arm). I beleive they are part BS903-023 or something like that in the manual. I find that without these washers in place, there is alot of forwrd/back movement of the c hub. I am assuming they are required as the original plastic c-hubs used them.

Anyone else upgrade their c-hubs to aluminum and use the plastic washers? Did you find the c-hubs were a tight fit?

1ofmyfuns

Update...!

billymare

Yes, Kurt is the man....

formula87

Are you talking about the screws falling out or breaking on the bottom of the hub?

1ofmyfuns

Yep...

Got it going today and so far so good, I kinda roughed it up a bit just to see how it would hold up and it never missed a beat ....knock on wood.......!

formula87

You said you put in better screws what did you end up using..........?........... the stock screw is a fine thread on mine but still falls out after some abuse on the track................in a race I will get laughed off the track cause I am not breaking like everyone else parts are just falling off LOL........I have still the stock cast knuckels.

joehanoun

that's exactly what's been happening to me. I posted a link (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10305508
) asking for help and non gave a usefull comment..

Hopefully this

formula87

I may try some serious strong loctite and see.

1ofmyfuns

Ok heres some help.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10324813/tm.htm

here I show some picsand explain how I fixed mine with 6-32 socket head screws whichwill only workfor the bottom screws, if you do the top screws you can make them 6-32 but you will nedd to use a philips head screw so that there is room above it for the top turnbuckle to clear the top of the screw, I tried to use a socket head on top but there's not enough room to let the turn buckle ball end go back into position so th escrew that holds it can be reinstalled.

If your screws are just falling out and not breaking I would suggest just getting some good quality BLUE Loctite and putting a health dose on the screws ............AFTER you clean the threads in the knuckle (Hub) out real good with some Electric Contact Cleaner.....it wont harm the plastic stuff and will remove any oil that may prevent the loctite from holding the crew in place like it needs too.

Ionly drilled and tapped one of mine because the 3mm screw had actually broken off in the hub, on the other side I just replaced all the screws with better ones and cleaned the threads and used a heathy dose of BLUE Loctite on them, this willkeep them from coming out unless the threads are just completely "wallard out".....as we say around here.... if they are then either replace with the upgraded knuckle or do as Idid and drill them out with a #36 drill bit and retap with 6-32.

If you Drill &Retap new threadsyou will need to disassemble the hub, by removngtheshaft and theinsiderearbearing which is the largest one, then when youdrill outthe hole with the #36 bit drill all the way through into where the bearing sits, it wont hurt a thing to drill thiscompletely through and isthe only way to getenough threads in it unless you use a bottoming tap to finish the threads, I just usedwhatis called a standard plugtap and drilled the hole completely through so I actually have more threads now than it did before, just be sure the screwyou useisnt so long that it tightens down through the hole so deep that it damages the outer bearing race when you tighten it down all the way, the 6-32screw I usedis the same length as the factory screw was so I had no issue with that, make sure also that when you tighten the screw down that you check to make sure you can still easily move / steerthe knuckle back and forth without it binding on you.

Go tothe post i listed a link to here and you will have a better idea maybe ofwhat I doen to fix mine, it's a simple fix, just need a drill anda bit and tap.

Hope thishelps.

Peace

formula87

Wow .........thanks............. I have'nt broke any screws yet just bent or fell out.

1ofmyfuns

Your verywelcome

I just hopeall that mumbo jumbo I typed willhelp someone else if they run into that problem.

foxys

One thing about those knuckle screws. If you replace them, use stainless steel. The stock screws are super soft and snap easily. Personally Ireplace everything in the car with SS and hit all metal to metal with blue locktite and metal to plastic with shoe goo.

1ofmyfuns

Yeah you are right about the screws being soft......

I didnt go stainless but I went highgrade steel nobody here local had stainless, the screws I used are much harder than what came in it so I'm hoping they will hold up for a while.....

I use Blue Loctite metal to metal and metal to plastic.......... but shoe goo like goop or just a dab of anycontact cement will work nice on the plastic... I've used 3M weather strip adhiesive for thread locker on metal to plastic and it works great too.

formula87

I just saw Kurt@URCHobby has a Stainless screw set for the 8E series Backdraft..... Earthquake....... may have to look in to that..........

joehanoun

Thanks a lot1ofmyfunsgreat post, I will definitly follow your instructions this weekend and hopefully will work like a charm.