bkbajan

received my caldera 3.0 in the mail today.
followed all steps before trying to get it started...ive been at it for the past 6hrs and the truck didnt even stay running for more than 2seconds.

wht gives???

Foxy

Can you be a bit more specific about what you've tried and what exactly happens when you try to start it? Be very detailed, does the pull start feel very hard to pull? Have you tried changing any needle settings on the engine? As much detail as you can.

nitrosportsandrunner

agreed, more detail needed.

altho the truck comes pre-set needle settings, altitude-air temp-humidity can all effect a nitro engine.

Its also possible a new glow plug is needed. While glow plugs usually last many tanks of gas, you could have flooded the motor really bad, fouling the plug.
Our the plug could have been bad out of the box.

a bad plug can sometimes allow a motor to start, but not sustain RPMs.

also, what fuel are you using?

bkbajan

the needles are back to factory settings. the car just started..revved and died. the wheels moved.
i have extra glow plugs tht i have tried also.

changed my fuel lines because there was air in one of them

bkbajan

im using 20% nitro btw..
i charged up my ingitor
primed engine,noticed air bubbles
changed both lines
i did also mess with the needles after hours of pulling tht damn cord,but the LSN is 2 1/2 turns out

NewRageRC

My Feedback: (1)

How much oil is in the fuel? We had some with 16% oil and could hardly run our trucks.

bkbajan

hmm,it says 9% oil

nitrosportsandrunner

have you adjusted all 3 needles?

the high speed
low speed
and idle set screw

if you have somebody help you, can you start the car and as soon as it start have the other person holding the radio give it some gas and see if it will stay running at speed. might just be an idle setting issue.

bkbajan

took it to the hobby shop,and the same thing happened.
the mechanic would get it started and it still dies..
after some tuning..it started to run but then it would shut off on high throttle.

that is when he told me something is wrong with the engine and that i should replace it via redcat...after asking him to try tuning again..it runs pretty good now but really rich.
he says thats the only way it keeps goin..

any thoughts?

nitrosportsandrunner

i think those like to run rich anyway.

you could just double check the screw that hold the heat sink on(near the glow plug)
and the screws that hold the muffler(or bolts) to the motor.

sometimes a leak can be there but be VERY small and hard to see.

what kinda speed are you getting out of it?

you could also check the fuel lines for damage, and make sure the gas tank top seals good.

its funny the shop guy said there is something wrong with it, then got it running
my LHS guys wont even tune a nitro for customers anymore. to much of a headache for them i guess.

bkbajan

will double check the screws.
im yet to drive it myself...which i will do shortly

i already changed fuel lines hours after the truck arrived

im gonna check back in again later

bkbajan

should i put some locktite on the wheel nuts??

nitrosportsandrunner

i just use wheel nuts with nylon in them.
but yeh, locktite can do the job. just make sure to go very light on the amount and remember the next time you wanna take the wheels off that you will need to apply some force.

bkbajan

ok,thanks

ehroof

air leak, probably at the base of the carb or on the backplate, thats why you have to run it rich, to make up for the air its sucking in.

bkbajan

how would i fix that?? would that leak also cause the car to die as im ready to move off?

bkbajan

finally drove the truck for a good two hours..ran nicely untill i smacked it into a curb lol
left front dogbone came out the drive cup..and the screw on the bottom of the hub came out..fixed it on the spot.

the brakes worked really good untill i didnt have any at all lol
i ended up crashing again..breaking the shell,thats when i realized the tiny spring missing from the brake arm of the servo.

only one major problem tho,when i start the car..remove the ignitor and hit the throttle the car sometimes quits
so i'd have to hold the revs up before i actually get goin. there also seems to be some lag.

im gonna go clean wht i can right now. any suggestions? after run oil?
thanks for the input

nitrosportsandrunner

yes it would. as you increase the intake, you need more vacume to suck the fuel in.
if there is a tiny leak somewhere, then there aint enough vaccume to sustain higher RPMS

if the leak is at the carb or backplate, then the seals there may be worn. or the bolts/screws that hold them to the motor are not tight enough.

ehroof

best way to seal it to remove the carb, you will see a small oring gasket there, put a little gasket sealer around that and put it back in, same for the backplate but be careful not to get any in the engine.

A heat/fuel resistant sealer is the best, there is a copper one thats sold in most automotive stores that will work well.

AllAboutFunHobbies

Don't forget the back plate too. Pull that off and slap a little on that one too. Also check to make sure your fuel tank is sealing properly. We actually had a guy come in to the store with one that didn't even have an O-ring straight from the factory. Also F.Y.I. that fuel tank is WAY to big for that engine and when you get to a half tank it will run lean. We don't ever recommend running them past a half to 3/4 empty.

bkbajan

will get tht sealer asap.
wht exactly is the back plate?

ehroof

backplate is what is behind the pullstart, you take the pullstart off and there are 4 screws, that is the backplate.

bkbajan

ok,got ya. thanks

do aftermarket servos come with springs??

ehroof

Not that i know of, what kind of spring.... Also check your fuel tank, make sure its sealed good and check the exhaust gasket, the one between the engine and the header, if they leak it can also make an issue tuning and running.

bkbajan

i somehow lost the spring from the brake linkage