rcenth

ok awesome i'll definately get those. if my batteries are dead will the nitro rc still start? or will it not even start? since i ran it 5 tanks when it seemed to not start anymore (i still think it's likely me messing with the HSN/LSN but, trying to make sure I consider/test all possibilities). oh but, i believe i recall turning the rc car on and using the radio to test the steering and when i would squeeze throttle the carb would open, so that must mean the batteries are good?

Dads like rc too

Yes it will start and run with dead or no batteries but you'll have no throttle or steering control. First thing you should always do is what you said, check throttle and steering before starting the engine.

rcenth

could you please confirm the spelling on "integry" nothing comes up on amazon with that name, closest is Tenergy. also, i found these 2700 mah rechargeable AA (16 batteries) $45 - 18 reviews of almost 5 stars, how do these look - http://www.amazon.com/Maha-Powerex-R...1605389&sr=8-7

Dads like rc too

My bad, your right it's tenergy. Look under battery/charger combo. It will specifically be the 2500's for that price. 16 batteries with a smart charger

rcenth

well i went to the shop today to continue to work on the shockwave and ended up bringing it home with me since i forgot the glow ignitor lol well when you were saying it would be more difficult to start it after adding the after run oil does that include more difficulty pulling on the starter? since i was trying to prime it while i was there and it's really difficult to pull the starter now i'm messing up my hand. 

rcenth

well after bringing it home it's getting a little easier to pull the starter but, it just won't start. i wonder if i put too much nitro into the carb and engine since there' nitro leaking out of the exaust and the oil filters are soaking and when i turn it on it's making a quiet funny sound the throttle was going back/forth on it's own whenever i get close to the engine or touch it with the ignitor i'm not sure if it's interference in my house or something messed up. this has turned into a lot of frustration real quick

ThePenguins

It was hard to pull most likely because you flooded the engine. Remove your glow plug, turn the car upside down, and pull on the pull start a few times.

Generally you will have some nitro come out of the exhaust with whatever you use for after run oil. I would turn the car upside down and pull the pull start a few times immediately after placing the after run oil in the engine. The oil just needs to coat the inside of the engine to keep fuel from collecting moister and gumming up the inside.

I keep several filters with me while I run and change them about every hour of run time and depending on how dirty they get. Before I place oil on them I wash them in water and dawn dish liquid and allow them to dry. Make sure you only place enough oil on the filter to make it greasy to the touch, any more and you won't pull air through it.

I would check your batteries, the servo wires, antenna, and trim settings on the radio to try to fix the problem you are having with your throttle.

rcenth

I already troubleshooted the engine flooding issue, i had spoke with customer support at redcat they recommended the same thing and i watched the video tutorial how redcat is exactly how you said to do it and that's what I tried but, it's still not starting but, it's not hard to pull the starter anymore.

rcenth

your idea of me having to check the throttle i raised it on the remote and it started but, the thing is that it won't stay start i've almost used up a half a tank of gas in trying to start it or keep it start. it keeps turning off when i put the throttle back in the middle to where the tires stop spinning. i'm trying to mess with the idle screw but, it doesn't seem to make any difference

rcenth

when you adjust the idle screw are you supposed to move the carb around until you get it to the correct position? since just rotating it like HSN/LSN doesn't seem to do anything and I've screwed it down in pretty far and even screwed it out to where it came off and i saw the carb move around and then i put it back in, no matter how far i bring it out or bring it in the gap doesn't seem to change and even when i push the break there is a small 1mm gap but, it still shuts off. more importantly it keeps shutting off when i put the throttle in the middle. so is the issue the idle screw that i need to keep messing with? so i know not to mess with the LSN/HSN yet

Dads like rc too

You could be stalling either because you got your needles so out of whack or the idle is just not right.  When your running rich it will stall more easily.  So at this point you can get it started....right?  You said when you let off the throttle or hit the brakes it stalls either way....yes?  I know you said you think the idle screw is adjusted right but make sure it's right.  You said no matter how you adjust it it has no effect.  Hold your finger on the carb barrel where the linkage connects to it.  Hold it down in the closed position.  With the air filter off screw the idle screw in clockwise.  You should feel the barrel opening.  There is a groove in the barrel where the idle screw will adjust it in or out.  If you have you gap then the problem has to be mixture.  Don't worry about the LSN yet.  Let's bring it back out flush.  In fact bring both needles back flush and crank that thing up.  Check your glow plug first and make sure it's burning.  Your engine should start this way.  It may sound like dog but it should start.  Once it runs, turn in the HSN until it sounds like it will run "probably 1/2 turn in".  Go ahead and run it like this.  Get it warmed up and make some high speed runs.  Now you can start to lean the HSN some more until you have good top end back.  I know it's very disappointing going through this with no one around to help out.  In a couple of weeks you'll look back and laugh at all this, but starting out, it really helps to have a buddy with some experience to lend a hand while you learn the ropes.

rcenth

Yes I can start it now only if I raise the throttle on the radio control up, like when the knob is in the middle it's at the line and then i turn it to the right half way to max and the it will start and it will be loud and the wheels will turn then i'll start to turn the throttle down to make the tires stop spinning and then engine will quit. If I brake then it will quit also.

rcenth

well excuse my language but i'm on a f*cking roll, just broke the starter. i started seeing the gap widen in the carb when i was screwing down further i guess i had it too far out but i had got it to where i had started and with the throttle on the radio control in the middle it was starting up with a high rev with the wheels turning then i slightly adjusted the idle screw and the wheels seemed to stop turning or not as fast and i tested the radio control by pressing the brake and the engine didn't quit but, then i picked it up to take it outside and as soon as i picked it up the engine quit, i put it down outside and must have pulled the starter too hard it lost it's "pull" it's just hanging from it's string.

Dads like rc too

Let's make sure we figure out what's going on with the stalling. It's ok to bump up the trim to fire it up and get it warmed up, then just trim it back down. Run it on a block of wood with the tires off the ground. If it stalls like this we have a mixture problem. If it stays running, place it on the ground. If it stalls as soon as the tires hit the ground, the clutch spring has broken inside the clutch bell.

Dads like rc too

Actually if it stalls while braking on the wood it could still be the spring.  With the car off try to turn the clutch bell by hand.  It should be free and not try to turn the engine, just the transmission.

Dads like rc too

Oh damn, RCU is really lagging tonight, my last two post took forever to go through. Well I think your close to getting it, obviously need a starter though. Well I will suggest unless you have a hobby shop close by to order one off eBay. For what Redcat charges for shipping, unless your ordering multiple items, your better off ordering from someone on eBay. It will be cheaper in the long run since most of the sellers have free shipping even though the item may cost a bit more.

rcenth

I'm not sure what's broken if i need to replace the whole thing or if it's fixable the string didn't break off but, it can't pull anymore the string is hanging outside it won't reel inside the pulley. there's a hobby shop near, i'll probably have to go there tomorrow.<embed style="left: 0px; top: 0px; width: 0px; height: 0px; position: fixed; display: block; " type="application/rf-np-plugin" id="Siber_embed1"></embed>

rcenth

well i just looked at the tank and it looks like it's empty except for a couple drops of fuel now so maybe this last time it shut off when i picked it up was due to that. it felt like i got it right since it was reving high with the throttle knob in the middle and then i adjusted the idle screw a little bit and the wheels stopped turning and throttle turned down a little so that means the gap was open too much and then it must have closed slightly. it also stayed on longer than it has before it was on for about 10-20 seconds it seemed like normally it's a few seconds or 5 seconds and i pressed the trigger forward for braking and it didn't shut off. even if it's not completely set yet, i think i got the feel of the idle screw now when i saw the tutorial video again i noticed his was in quite a bit and mine was really far out and like i said once i was going further in and tightening it the gap started increasing so i think i got the feel for that now. 

Dads like rc too

Yeah, if the HSN is rich you can blow through fuel quick, even just trying to start it. Trust me everyone on here has gone through what you have. It's how we learned. The pull start is easy enough to Change. Yes you'll have to remove the engine but then you just remove the screws holding it to the back of the engine. Of course when you reinstall the engine you'll have to set your spur gear mesh again. Trust me, every time you do this it will get quicker and quicker.

rcenth

Ok, I'll try it myself so you mean to remove those 4 screws below the metal plate that I used to adjust the spur gear correct? That's it? Though since I had put loctite on those screws can I just loctite them again or I believe you mentioned that the threading on the screws will be gone if I remove them after the loctite so should I pick up new screws while I'm in there? I was planning on taking the whole shockwave there but, if it's just those 4 screws to loosen up then I'll just take off the starter first and open it up, since the string didn't break off so I'm wondering what happened inside I guess it's not possible the string just came off the pulley or something, or maybe the pulley inside broke anyway I can try to open it and see maybe what the issue is then just bring the starter to the hobby shop incase it's not fixable, or maybe if it's just a part inside broken they might sell a replacement.

well that's good to hear I'm not the only person going through this lol i was starting to feel kind of dumb. I had a feeling I was going to break it since I was going kind of hard at it back when i was having trouble starting it I guess from stressing out which only made matters worst need to stay calm but, at least it broke on a good note I have a feeling I got the idle screw correct now or in the close range. At first I wasn't sure what was going on I was about to take a picture of the gap and screw and upload it to see if it looks correct or not. But, after I noticed the throttle reving without having to increase the throttle on radio and also the wheels stopping when I made a tiny adjustment to the idle screw, plus it staying on longer than it has before, it got my hopes up. I started stumbling recently but, hopefully things will start picking up again.

Dads like rc too

Yes you will remove the four screws that go through the chassis and into the engine mount.  You should have no problem re-using them.  The loctight issue of messing up the threads is when you loctight screws that go into plastic.  As far as the pull start goes, it's already broke right...so might as well take it apart.  Unfortunately I cannot tell you how to fix it since I have not broken one myself.  Typically though it's like you said, people get frustrated and then start pulling too hard until they lose the pull start.  Remember what I told you back in the first few posts.  If your yanking the car out of your hands while starting, the engine is flooded.  Also remember your not starting a lawn mower.  Short quick pulls are better than long slower pulls.  You should never be pulling far enough that you hit the stop on the pull start.  Most of the time your engine is going to start between 3-10 pulls.  If you've been pulling for 15-30 pulls its probably not going to start.  Slowdown and check out the problem.

rcenth

Yeah I know for sure I was paying attention to it the first day but, even today I wasn't really trying to pull it far, I don't know maybe when the engine was flooded I tried too many times and it messed something up. I'll take apart tomorrow and check it out.
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rcenth

well that wasn't too bad, looks like i don't have to replace the starter yet when i took the starter off the string went inside on it's own. so i didn't have to completely dismantle the inside, like take apart the coil etc. I put it back on and connected the engine back and i'm able to pull it to start, tried it a few times but, there's no fuel except for a couple drops so i don't think it will start. will leave it how it is until saturday when i can fill it up with fuel again. 

Dads like rc too

Thats great that it still works, I wouldn't try to ride the luck train too long though. Might get another pullstart on the way soon. I'm glad you figured it out. I meant to tell you to be carefull. From what I've read those things are like a jack in the box when you take them apart, meaning "BOING" as the spring goes flying across the room.

rcenth

well tomorrow i'll be bringing the shockwave back to the shop so i'll be able to refuel and start messing with it again. though few minutes ago i thought i would check the setting of the idle screw and carb so i was watching the video tutorial and then i removed the air filter and turned on the shockwave and remote and ok I see the gap in the carb it looks like it's more than 1mm but, when i refuel it and start it i'll mess with it to get the right setting but, what I noticed was that when I press the brake on the remote or if i accelerate the carb does not move back and forth, the gap doesn't widen and get small like it does in the video tutorial or like it used to (though when it used to move it would also shut off) does this mean that I have the idle screw too tight? or is something else wrong?

EDIT: answered my own question, i was looking at it and it seems that when i had taken off the engine the rod from the throttle disconnected from the carb itself so that's the reason the carb wasn't moving when i pressing the throttle, once i connected it, it's moving again. i have it set now so there's a gap and when i accelerate it fully opens but, when i press the brake it doesn't close it stays at that open gap, this is correct?