rcenth

I have a nitro Caldera 3.0 recently I had to send the engine back for repair/replacement I just got it back, this was the first time I've completely taken out the engine and disconnected it from throttle rods etc. so I got the engine in and from what it seems like I connected everything properly but, I'm having two issues.

1 - major issue whenever i squeeze the throttle the engine quits. it starts up easy in a few pulls, and will stay start but, as soon as i squeeze throttle engine quits.

2 - this was worst at first but, after a little bit of tweaking of needles it seems to have been mostly resolved but, issue still there. not sure if it's due to needle adjustments or just after 1 or 2 tanks the engine warmed up. what was happening at first was that the caldera would start up and just sit there at idle speed then after about 20-30 second the engine would start reving faster and faster until the engine quit. Now, normally if your lsn isn't set correct then your engine will start reving immediately and then quit but, in this case it doens't do it immediately it takes like 20-30 seconds and the wheels start turning because of the reving and if i even try to tweak the throttle trim (it's at 0) or press the brake it has no effect. Now after a tank or so of fuel of it just staying start and of little adjustments to needles it seemed to have minimzed now it will do short quick bursts of rev and tires turn a bit then go back to idle but, it doesn't rev high anymore so engine doesn't quit at idle.

I took some pics of the throttle rod connections and I made two short 10 second videos, one of the #2 issue and then the other video is of me pressing the brakes. I want to confirm if I connected the rods correctly since to me it looks like when I press the brake that the throttle mechanism is not moving enough isn't it supposed to move in the opposite direction of if you were to increase throttle? you can see me pressing the break but, it's only moving very slightly, like a slight jiggle.

Here's the links to pics/videos:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/201...2016.41.25.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/201...2016.41.54.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/201...2014.43.29.mp4
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/201...2017.11.00.mp4


Thanks

kelynsdad1023

try leaning both the needles out a tiny bit and see what happens.

rcenth

i already tried that, didn't work. i had to lean out hsn since i'm breaking in engine and it says to lean it out 1/12 at tank 2, i tried that with both lsn and hsn, didn't work. lsn is just about set perfect if i adjust it just a little too far in one direction it will start reving on it's own, and in the other way will be difficult to get it to start

rcenth

from the pics did i connect the throttle rod back correctly? what about the video of how unresponsive the brakes are, is that how it's supposed to be?

rcenth

well i guess i may have resolved the issues, i just kind of messed with the throttle gear manually pushed it back/forth and then it started moving fine, i can press brakes and that throttle gear will move like it should.

i'm able to accelerate now and engine won't every time but, is still sometimes, i think what the issue might have been was that the fuel tubing was suck between the engine and where the fuel tank sits, and even though it was getting fuel after i primed it yesterday. today i was trying to prime it and the fuel wouldn't go through the tubing, so i took the fuel tube out of that stuck area and when i primed it in one pull the fuel immediately went through, so maybe that's the reason it was doing those short revs since there was an issue with air flow and fuel mixture.it doesnt seem to be doing that anymore.

the engine still has quit on me three times now once when i pressed throttle but, not immediately like when i'm accelerating fast. i'm not actually driving it yet since i'm at my shop (not allowed here) it's just sitting on a block, not sure if that's the reason the engine is quitting when i get home tomorrow i will do actual driving with it. it still has improved since yesterday at least it's not quitting every time i throttle. maybe after a few runs or more breaking in it wont' do that anymorehas other suggestions would be appreciated.

Dads like rc too

Don't be too concerned about it stalling now and then, there are many reasons that can happen. The needles, outside temp, engine temp, all factors. Make sure you have your needles right though since you have a brand new engine. Don't get too worried about the LSN just yet. A little on the rich side won't hurt for now. Now to rich and it gets hard to leave the line without it loading up, but remember to check it when it's warmed up. Remember your pinch test with the LSN. Also, remember when adjusting the LSN it's much more sensitive, small increments at a time, 1 hr turns or less will usually make a change. As far as the HSN, keep it so it's blowing good smoke for now, the speed will come, the engine will loosen up. Don't forget that the idle will affect your brakes making it stall. While breaking in you may need to keep the idle a little higher than normal.

rcenth

thanks for that.

oddly enough the engine is not stalling at all when i brake, even at idle it doesn't quit, so i hope idle screw is set properly. only when i accelerate fast sometimes, if i'm accelerating slow it's still fine but, it's not stalling every time anymore when i accelerate, like I said it's also on a block right now and not actually driving it not sure if that's a reason, will see tomorrow.

about lsn i already tested that a bit and as you said 1 hr in each direction is enough to see changes, i think it's at about the right setting since if I turn it about 1 hr one way then the engine won't start, or quit after i remove the glow plug. if i do it the other way then it will rev and tires move on it's own. so i think it's at about where it should be.

hsn is rich, fuel is spewing out of exaust. i'm turning it 1/12 each tank as it says in the instructions. i'm not really sure if i should be "breaking it in" like this while it's sitting on the block and I can't actually drive it, i'm on the 3rd tank so have turned in hsn 1/12 each time, was just trying to start it and get engine warmed up for tomorrow and make sure everything was setup correctly. i think after this tank i'll leave it as it is.

rcenth

well i dont know i guess there is something wrong, again i should probably not be doing this on the block and actually driving it but, i've done this with the shockwave before reved it on a block and engine didn't quit like this. maybe the 2nd gear is not set correctly? if it's happening when it's accelerating maybe it's trying to switch gears? i made a video of what's happening, here's the link: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/20...2012.36.35.mp4

rcenth

damn now the problem with the brakes is happening again edit: backed out throttle

edit: backed out throttle rod a bit from linkage cup and brakes working again for now

Dads like rc too

You can't break it in on the block. You need to put a load on the engine or it will just rev out. 1st tank at idle is ok. Some even like to run two tanks at idle, but trying to run it on the block is a waste. You'll never get the engine hot enough for sleave expansion.

rcenth

ok got it, will just wait until tomorrow

rcenth

well i'm just starting to get aggravated now, i was bringing the caldera back home with me after the shop closed i accidently left it powered on (just the power switch, it wasn't started) and then when i almost got home it started making this strange sound i turned it off but, when i got home and was getting ready to power it on and start it, i turned the power switch to on and then that sound started again, the sound is coming from the throttle gear is that the servo under there? now that gear doesn't respond to throttle or brakes. i made a video of the sound it's making and me trying to throttle and you can hear what kind of noise it's making - http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38834766/2012-05-27%2018.45.14.mp4

rcenth

i guess it looks like the servo went bad? i'm going to order another to replace it, since i can't figure out what else it could be

Dads like rc too

Fill out the warranty form

rcenth

Ok,  I went ahead and filled out warranty form. Though I still went ahead and order it as well since I was putting in my weekly order and didn't want to wait as it could take 2-3 days to get the claim approved and I didn't know for sure if it would be covered under warranty. I asked them in the claim form if they approve the claim if they can just credit me back. I don't know if they do this or not, I took the risk but, it's not a big deal I just don't want to wait more time, was really looking forward to doing some runs tonight I've been getting teased all day lol i've only been able to start it and not run it at the shop haha

Dads like rc too

Remember, buy two. One for the repair, one for the parts bin

rcenth

good thinking! if they approve the warranty i'll just tell them to send the replacement and put that aside and then i have this one on the way

rcenth

incase this problem happens with somebody else, the issue was the glow plug that's the reason the engine was dying when i throttled, after changing the glow plug that doesn't happen anymore