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  1. #1

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    Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    Hey guys, been researching and havent found many how-to's regarding this. I have in the mail new front dogbones (driveshafts), and a new 6kg servo and front diff cups (Thanks Billly@RedCat)

    Wondering if anyone has any tips, advice or general important information on re&re of these parts. ie. How to remove dogbones from the wheel side, new servo-just plug and play? ....and so on etc.

    This thread may be useful since a lot of newbies (like me) seem to be picking up the redcats and these are pretty common parts (i think)which will require replacement at some point or another.

    Thanks in advance.



  2. #2

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo


    ORIGINAL: FarBeyondDriven

    Hey guys, been researching and havent found many how-to's regarding this. I have in the mail new front dogbones (driveshafts), and a new 6kg servo and front diff cups (Thanks Billly@RedCat)

    Wondering if anyone has any tips, advice or general important information on re&re of these parts. ie. How to remove dogbones from the wheel side, new servo-just plug and play? ....and so on etc.

    This thread may be useful since a lot of newbies (like me) seem to be picking up the redcats and these are pretty common parts (i think)*which will require replacement at some point or another.

    Thanks in advance.


    The dogbones are pretty simple. Really it's just removing enough to get the new one in. Typically you can loosen the front or rear diff from the bottom and lift it up enough to replace the center bones. If its the actual front or rear dogbones that go to the wheels, that's even easier. You just remove either the front steering knuckles or the rear uprights to let the wheel hang outwards, then just pop the old one out.

    The diff cups will be more challenging. Once you learn how to do it, you'll see it's not half as hard as it seems. You'll have to remove the diff gears after opening the diff case. Then the ring gear will have to removed from the diff case that houses the planetary gears. Then you can get in there with a tiny screwdriver and pop the clips off. The side diff cups will then slide out. If its the center cup, it's easier. You just remove the pinion gear after opening the case, then remove the clip holding the pinion onto the diff cup shaft.

    Servo is plug and play.
    SELLING MONSOON XTR WITH UPGRADED AND LOTS OF SPARE PARTS - PM FOR DETAILS
    Caldera 10e : Volcano EPX : Monsoon XTR : Sumo x2 :

  3. #3

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    thanks Dads. I'll look into it more when i get all the parts. Any preventative maintenance I should do while I have some things apart?

    attached is a pic (off the net) of the part that broke (circled in red).
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  4. #4

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    The Caldera will sometimes become Broken, even though it has Strength Beyond Strength.  If you just spend 5 Minutes Alone with it you'll get it fixed. Sometimes you'll feel like the buggy has been Slaughtered and you're in the Throes of Rejection. It won't take 25 Years to fix if you Use Your Third Arm. Waka waka.

  5. #5

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    AHAHAAHAH - that was good. I'm just hoping it doesnt get stuck in Floods, or I'll have to Drag the Waters, and take 13 steps to nowhere. Then I'll Walk, This Love, through the Hollow, Cemetary Gates



    (sorry to all you other folks who wont get this jibber jabber).

  6. #6

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    Glad you appreciated it. And when I saw your name I apparently completely forgot you had a question.. So here's my 2 cents:

    If you didn't already, next time you order parts I'd get a few extra dogbones and axles. If you can find someplace cheap, I'd pick up a bunch of different sized screws (either in a kit or just a whole bunch of Redcat's packs). I also like to keep a differential housing or 3 around because I like to run in to mailboxes. 

    As far as preventative maintenance on the car, I wouldn't really bother with anything until it comes up except periodically tightening screws and checking the gear mesh. I think I crash more than most people but I'm working on my cars so much that pretty much every part is going to be removed every 5th time or so I drive it.

    And now you've got me thinking.. I've been planning on converting my extra Backdraft to, 1/6 scale, but I think converting it to a Caldera would make more sense.

  7. #7

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    Forgive me everyone, this is my first repair job on an RC. So I got my exi metal servo in the mail today. Currently in the process of installing.....need help PLEASE. lol.

    I assume i have to use the horn that came with the new servo (not the stock one). The stock screw that holds the horn on wont fit the hole on the new horn....am I missing something?

    Servo came with 1 screw which holds the horn onto the servo gear which is fine, but confused about the other end. The new servo came with a "+" style horn (if thats what its called) and a "|" style horn. Trying to use the latter but how do I connect it to the steering linkage etc?

    Sorry for this, new with this stuff and dont want to miss an obvious step....id rather not force anything causing stripping, breaking and then have to wait for another mail delivery

    Many thanks in advance!
    edit - servo i got:
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidise.html



  8. #8

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    You can use any horn that will fit your servo. On mine the shaft was a bit different size so I couldn't reuse the original horn, but if you can that's probably your best bet. 

    So you're saying the screw that holds the horn to the shaft won't fit through the horn itself, right? The horn is relatively soft plastic, just make it fit. Either just run the screw through it (the threads should cut through easily) or drill it out. Since you're only passing the screw through it's not very critical.

    On the other end of the horn, the screw I had for the steering linkage was bigger. I just turned the screw till it took.

  9. #9

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    (dammit just explained myself and it didnt submit properly and i lost everything i just typed).

    Anyways, see attached pic for my issues.

    pic point 1 - so your saying just to make the screw fit in one of those holes and it should self tap itself as the plastic on the horn will be fairly soft?
    pic point 2- this isnt going to work as the bottom half of the horn (which came with new servo) is bottoming out on the chassis, thus will not allow for any travel. Do I need to modify this by cutting the bottom half of horn off?

    Im pretty good with tools, hands etc, but i just dont want to "make it work" and have someone come back with "you idiot, you are just supposed to do this then that then presto!"

    Thanks again bro
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  10. #10

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    Ok, I got it now.
    #1 Yeah, the screw should self tap in that hole just fine. If it's a bit too tight try drilling it out just a bit. Obviously make sure you don't overtighten.
    #2 The servo I bought came with a handful of different horns. The one I ended up using was an X like yours. I cut off the parts that interfered with the chassis.

    If the horn you have doesn't work for some reason, any hobby shop will sell them. You should be able to find something that works.

  11. #11

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    RE: Caldera 10E - Help w/Installation of new Frnt dogbones, Frnt Cups and Servo

    One problem with the Caldera is that out of the box the shocks let the suspension travel too far up. This puts the dog bones in a bind and bends the axles. If you take your truck and max out the suspensiton in the up position you will see what a bind this puts the axles in. The easiest fix is to remove the rod end and put an oring on the rod to limit the up travel. This will keep your axles from bending. I havent' bent one since I did this.


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