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  1. #1

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    Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...



    Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before Igo ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?


  2. #2
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    ORIGINAL: jroptop



    Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before IĀ*go ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?

    probly softer. The arm angle may be a factor as well. I have my suspension set low (arms almost level with car on the ground)
    do you have the camber links set in the hole closest to the hub?
    The alloy hubs are one of the upgrades I would buy. But ive found that setting the link to the hole closest to the hub helps the plastic ones last a good long time.
    Ive jumped my tornado epx pro while running a vxl system on 3s lipo without breaking the hubs!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODHMzg2w_Xo
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  3. #3

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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    everything is at factory settings for camber positions,can you post a pic of what you mean by the settings?Areyoureferring to the adjustable link that screws to the hub bracket?Wont that change the pitch of the wheel?Thanks Nitro!
    ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

    ORIGINAL: jroptop



    Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before Igo ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?

    probly softer. The arm angle may be a factor as well. I have my suspension set low (arms almost level with car on the ground)
    do you have the camber links set in the hole closest to the hub?
    The alloy hubs are one of the upgrades I would buy. But ive found that setting the link to the hole closest to the hub helps the plastic ones last a good long time.
    Ive jumped my tornado epx pro while running a vxl system on 3s lipo without breaking the hubs!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODHMzg2w_Xo

  4. #4
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

    Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

    With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

    The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!
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    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  5. #5

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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    PERFECT! I went ahead and ordered a set of the aluminum hubs and will adjust them to your description,thanks again Nitro!
    ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

    OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

    Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

    With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

    The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!

  6. #6
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    ORIGINAL: jroptop

    PERFECT! I went ahead and ordered a set of the aluminum hubs and will adjust them to your description,thanks again Nitro!
    ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

    OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

    Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

    With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

    The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!
    with the alloy hubs you can put the link in any hole you want. The alloy's are is not only metal, but thicker than the plastic. It will be very hard to break it.

    when you install the new hubs, make sure to take BOTH bearings out of the old hubs. There is an inner, and an outer bearing. The inner one is larger.
    Ive sold some alloy hubs before and had the customer say the wheels now wobbled....but they forgot to put the inner bearing in the new hub!
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  7. #7

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    RE: Volcano EPX Pro suspension settings...

    Oh,yes,believe me,plenty experience with the bearing removal as I replaced 3 sets of the carriers so far!
    ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

    ORIGINAL: jroptop

    PERFECT! I went ahead and ordered a set of the aluminum hubs and will adjust them to your description,thanks again Nitro!
    ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

    OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

    Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

    With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

    The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!
    with the alloy hubs you can put the link in any hole you want. The alloy's are is not only metal, but thicker than the plastic. It will be very hard to break it.

    when you install the new hubs, make sure to take BOTH bearings out of the old hubs. There is an inner, and an outer bearing. The inner one is larger.
    Ive sold some alloy hubs before and had the customer say the wheels now wobbled....but they forgot to put the inner bearing in the new hub!


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