1. When storing for the winter, do you need to remove all the fuel from the tank? I know you mentioned not having to after running, but what about for long term storage? There is mix opions about taking the fuel out of the tank for storage some say yse and some say no I never removed fuel from mine and they have always been just fine. But then again they are so much fun are you sure you are going to be able to just let it sit a whole winter?
2. Is there a special break in procedure for the 1/5 scale gassers like there is for nitros? Yes there is a break in but its way better then nitros. Now if you goole thiis question you will get many different answeres buat I have always just follwed this procedure with no problems.
New engine break-in procedure
1. Take it easy on the engine for the first two tanks
2. Heat cycle twice, run the engine for 20 minutes and let it fully cool down
3. We recommend 91 octane fuel, mixed at 25:1 Our preffered oil is Castor 927
4. Let your engine warm up before driving
5. Try to vary the rpms during breaking.
5. DO NOT HOLD FULL THROTTLE UNTIL THE ENGINE IS COMPLETELY BROKEN IN!!!
7. Do not use octane booster
What air filter oil should be used and where can it be found? You can use the same air filter oil that you would use in nitro and you can get it at your local hobby shop ebay or whereever.
But do make sure you get a good 2 stroke oil to mix with your gas you want a racing good synthetic oil I would like to suggest you satrt with the Dunerunner instead of the XB its a much better out of the box and new to 1/5 scale you can learn the hobby learn the car and have more fun with less problem then with the XB you will be upgrading a little sooner then you would want with the tire foams, the bearings, bearing holder, chubs and a few others.
This is a confusing post...first, to answer the OP...
1) No. Just shake the tank (give the whole car a good shake) before priming and running, to mix the oil again, it could have been sitting for 5 years and it'll probably be fine, provided your fuel tank closes well.
2) No, there is no break in, it makes sense to take it easy for the first 10 minutes, just to let all the seals and screws bed in from the vibration, but after that, you can start tuning straight away.
Regarding the other stuff...rchobbyunlimited, it seems you are confusing nitro engine break in with gas engine break in. Don't forget, these are ringed pistons. There is no pinch, and therefore, no need for break-in.
Heat cycling is only for pinch cylinders (nitro engines), there is no need to heat cycle a ringed engine, the ring ensures tolerance at low and high temperatures. Also, you want the lowest octane fuel you can find. Octane is a retardent, it is used in high compression engines to retard the ignition timing to prevent predetonation. These engines have nowhere near enough compression to reap the benefits of any amount of octane. The lower the octane, the smoother they will run, though I would still say just to use regular pump gas, don't go out of your way to find low octane, the difference won't be noticeable in normal running. Lastly, you don't need to warm them up, they warm up very quickly on their own, even in freezong temperatures, and the engine temperature is regulated by the built in fan under the pullstart assembly anyway. The cooler (inlet temperatures) these engines are the more power they will make (just like real 1:1 engines).
When it comes to tuning, its easy to find the sweet spot by sound. Once you have done that, check the spark plug every so often for color. If its grey and burnt, you are too lean, if its black and sooty, you are too rich. It should be a nice chocolate brown colour, if it is, your tune is good.