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Thread: Tornado EPX PRO


  1. #1

    Tornado EPX PRO

    I bought this r/c car for my son for Christmas. We took it out of the box today and ran it around.

    However, it keeps turning off. The fan will run on the engine which is to be expected to prevent overheating. However I noticed a little red light next to the motor begins to show when it is of. If the car is turned off then back on it will run again, but only for 15-20 seconds before the infamous red light comes on and the engine shuts off.

    Is this normal? What causes this? My gut reaction is hot motor, but why is is getting so hot so fast? Nothing has been done to modify the vehicle. We literally took it out of the box, used a soft bristle brush to dust anything we couldn't see. It was charged and batteries places into the remote.


    Also on the remote there are 2 connection openings - one is for charging and one says "dsc". What does that mean?

    I wish Redcat would include more literature. There is only information included on how to upgrade parts and basics of maintenance. There is no mention of troubleshooting.

  2. #2
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Your buggy is brushless. The speed control (what has the fan on it) is setup for LIPO battery use. A lipo battery (unlike the stock NIMH battery) cannot be fully drained. If that were to happen, it could not be recharged. Thus, the speed control senses battery voltage, and when it drops below 6v the ESC cuts power to the motor...first down to 50% and then to 0. But you will still have the fan running and the steering working.
    The manual should show how to disable this function (function is called Low Voltage Detection, or Low Voltage Cutoff)
    But it is a pain to adjust the speed controls features without the optional program box. (can be had on ebay for $15)

    A fully charged nimh battery should fix your issue. It will not hurt the NIMH battery for the LVD to be on. It will just cut power to the motor when it seems like you have plenty of power left in the battery. In reality, even if you turn off the LVD you will only gain about 1 minute more of runtime. When the nimh battery hits 6v, it doesn't have much juice left in it.

    If you like your tornado now, wait until you upgrade to a 2s lipo battery. You can double (or even triple) your runtime and gain acceleration and 5mph more top speed.

    The other Port on your radio is cool, you can get a cable (or it may have come with the buggy) to plug the radio into a USB port on your computer. This will let you use the radio as a control for RC sims like VRC pro (of which there is a free to play version)
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  3. #3
    I wish Redcat would include more literature. There is only information included on how to upgrade parts and basics of maintenance. There is no mention of troubleshooting.

    Me too. after talking with my local hobby shop owner, he advised me that the control on the vehicle ( I have a Volcano EXP Pro) is in LiPO protect and can be disabled by pushing the little button next to the on/off switch. this is how you are able to turn off the safe mode for the LiPO batteries. unfortunately there is NO mention of this feature or how to turn it off in the manual, and after hours of forum searching at RCR and many other sites I have found nothing on how to change this. fortunately I have a wonderful local hobby shop owner ( Andy @ Foxys/Bigsky Racing ) who will gladly assist me in correcting this issue. I am new to RC cars and I want to learn this stuff for myself because I want to be able to set the kids free with the vehicle and when they come in and have issues I would like to have the information to resolve any buttons/wires/controls that they may have changed/pulled/shut off. I do not have this option with the sparse amount of information supplied with the new RC car from Redcat. to date we have not had more than 1.5 minutes of enjoyment from our Volcano, A company that supplies a NiMH battery and charger for a vehicle in safety mode for a type of battery not even supplied can only lead to dissatisfaction among customers. The very least their marketing and sales department could have done is to up the price of the vehicle by the $10.00 difference in a LiPO battery and Sent the LiPO with the vehicle...... but the profit margin is king and ignorance in packaging rules the day. In summary.... WHAT WERE THEY THINKING ????

  4. #4
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    I agree that redcat's manuals need to be MUCH better.
    supplying a nimh with a brushless vehicle is done by most companies (look at traxxas)
    The reason redcat sets the ESC to LVC out of the box is because they feel many of their buyers are very new to the hobby and may buy a lipo not knowing that it cannot be fully drained. Imagine if you didn't know, had bought a $50 lipo and on the 1st run ruined it?
    Setting LVC on with nimh batteries wont hurt them.
    The bigger issue is that redcat's nimh packs are hit-or-miss. Ive run them in brushless and had 8-10 min runtimes, while others get just a few minutes. Not all of there packs have good enough solder and connections...which lowers the voltage output under load and thus the ESC will low voltage cutoff.

    Unfortunately, selling the pro's with a lipo would add $30-$50 to the cost. I know it should be less, but it just isn't. Lipo chargers typically cost more (especially more than a wall brick charger like the pro's come with) and lipo packs still cost more than nimh packs.

    I don't doubt that a time will come when redcat will switch all their brushless models to ship with lipo packs. Many do. But to hit a price point, the pro's still ship with nimhs.

    To be blunt, I put brand new redcat packs on ebay or give them to youngster's who are new to the hobby whenever I get a new redcat. (nimh packs I mean) and then I just run lipos I buy off hobbypartz.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by EVB View Post
    I wish Redcat would include more literature. There is only information included on how to upgrade parts and basics of maintenance. There is no mention of troubleshooting.

    Me too. after talking with my local hobby shop owner, he advised me that the control on the vehicle ( I have a Volcano EXP Pro) is in LiPO protect and can be disabled by pushing the little button next to the on/off switch. this is how you are able to turn off the safe mode for the LiPO batteries. unfortunately there is NO mention of this feature or how to turn it off in the manual, and after hours of forum searching at RCR and many other sites I have found nothing on how to change this. fortunately I have a wonderful local hobby shop owner ( Andy @ Foxys/Bigsky Racing ) who will gladly assist me in correcting this issue. I am new to RC cars and I want to learn this stuff for myself because I want to be able to set the kids free with the vehicle and when they come in and have issues I would like to have the information to resolve any buttons/wires/controls that they may have changed/pulled/shut off. I do not have this option with the sparse amount of information supplied with the new RC car from Redcat. to date we have not had more than 1.5 minutes of enjoyment from our Volcano, A company that supplies a NiMH battery and charger for a vehicle in safety mode for a type of battery not even supplied can only lead to dissatisfaction among customers. The very least their marketing and sales department could have done is to up the price of the vehicle by the $10.00 difference in a LiPO battery and Sent the LiPO with the vehicle...... but the profit margin is king and ignorance in packaging rules the day. In summary.... WHAT WERE THEY THINKING ????
    Hi EVB, Andy here, one thing that worries me, some really crummy lipo packs are out there, and I would be afraid they would go cheap to keep the price point, I would rather buy the pack separate and know that it is quality. Lipos don't just go bad, a truly cheap one can have poor foil sealing, and where a leaking battery with NiMH can cause corrosion, a leaky LiPo causes fire.

    Now I'm not saying that Redcat would go that cheap, however I have seen some of the lipo's other companies put it their "kits" and some are truly scary. Also, not every application is the same. If younger kids are going to play with it, I'd much rather they have NiMH that they can beat the snot out of.

    Because we inspect all incoming cars, I think we will start adding changing the brushless ESC to NiMH mode and making sure setup instructions are in the box for the ESC. Some have them, some don't and I own a photocopier. If you really sit and read the instructions it can be done with just the button (Hold until 3 green flashes, release, then keep hitting set until only 1 red flash. Wait a second then turn off the ESC, Voila, NiMH mode.) However, we'll also have to put a note or something NOT to run LiPo until it's changed back.

  6. #6
    In the instruction manual for my Tornado EPX Pro, it lists the LiPo battery specification as 3800 MaH. When I switched from the included 2000 MaH NiMH to a LiPo 3800 MaH, the performance increase was outstanding. Does anyone know if I can get a LiPo with more MaH without frying the motor and/or ESC? Why does the manual list 3800 as the battery spec?

  7. #7
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jginsburg13 View Post
    In the instruction manual for my Tornado EPX Pro, it lists the LiPo battery specification as 3800 MaH. When I switched from the included 2000 MaH NiMH to a LiPo 3800 MaH, the performance increase was outstanding. Does anyone know if I can get a LiPo with more MaH without frying the motor and/or ESC? Why does the manual list 3800 as the battery spec?
    I have no idea why it would say 3800mah lipo...unless you have the waterproof version and it's esc could overheat with a longer runtime.
    But I doubt that myself, I cant imagine that they used a brushless esc that would overheat that easy. and there are plenty of waterproof esc's that can have long runtimes without overheating.

    You could:
    a) email redcat and ask
    b) run your current Lipo pack and measure the ESC temps at the end of the run. As long as the temps are below 140 there is no reason you cant run a 5000mah lipo.

    I always run 5000mah packs in my tornados. Only possible difference is that I had the non-waterproof versions.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  8. #8
    Thanks for your reply. The first lipo I put in the car was 5000, and the esc did catch fire. Esc is the waterproof model btw. I'm just trying to figure out if problem was due to battery size or something else.

  9. #9
    Hey guys, I am new to this site, and I also have a tornado epx pro. I'll post pics later, but if you have the non water proof model, you can for your speed controller in a balloon and ziptie it to keep it from getting waterlogged. My Nado has been upgraded quite a bit and i believe most other stuff on it is waterproof, as I've gotten it wet and had no issues. The only real issues I have is the nut on the wheels loosening up, and the servo saver loosening itself up as well. I'll post pics later for you guys.

  10. #10
    I own this car and would really like a set of street tires. The tires that came on the car are not meant for road and they are bald after a few packs. Does anyone know of a set of street tires that will fit?

  11. #11
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShawnRC8 View Post
    I own this car and would really like a set of street tires. The tires that came on the car are not meant for road and they are bald after a few packs. Does anyone know of a set of street tires that will fit?
    I think you can get standard 26mm touring car tires (as long as the offset is right to fit)
    these will be shorter, and thus reduce your top speed and you will have to run a larger pinion gear to compensate.
    But standard touring car wheels will give you many onroad-type tire choices.

    or you can try this kinda setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rowHZJtF1A
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by ShawnRC8 View Post
    I own this car and would really like a set of street tires. The tires that came on the car are not meant for road and they are bald after a few packs. Does anyone know of a set of street tires that will fit?
    I have been searching other forums and asking about getting street tires for my Tornado EPX Pro for a bit now. I have even called some Redcat dealers/hobby shops. Some are using the Anaconda tires, others use HPI wheels with Proline tires like Speed Hawgs or Road Rage. I STILL haven't been able to narrow it down mainly because I am not sure of the range of size you are able to run(2.2-2.8?) on the stock axles without and modding. It appears that nobody knows the offset of the stock wheels to be able to find a set that you like and that will work. Im still trying to get that. Until then, I will be melting my stock knobs on the pavement.

  13. #13
    Actually turning off the lipo cut off is really simple and quick. Here is a link to one of our esc's and at the bottom is a link for the manual. All our brushless esc's program the same way. I agree our manuals leave some vital info out and I believe were working to fix that and some kits do not get the esc instructions included in the box, I don't know why. Any more question you can just give us a call (602)454-6445. Hope that helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosportsandrunner View Post
    I think you can get standard 26mm touring car tires (as long as the offset is right to fit)
    these will be shorter, and thus reduce your top speed and you will have to run a larger pinion gear to compensate.
    But standard touring car wheels will give you many onroad-type tire choices.

    or you can try this kinda setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rowHZJtF1A

    Right nitro, but nobody seams to know the offset. I have all other dimensions of the stock tires except the offset. Also does anyone know the range of outer diameter that can be run on these cars. I know to big and to small is a strain on the motor, am I right? I know the 2.2 is standard but what is the range. Anyone?

  15. #15
    I'll bump this thread with a bunch of n00b questions of my own.

    My my son has an HSP 94107 Pro buggy, which I believe is identical to the Tornado EPX Pro. It has a 3300kv brushless motor, fanned waterproof 45A ESC, aluminum shocks, plastic suspension bits, precision wheel bearings, etc.

    ESC: http://www.hobbystation.co.nz/water-...r-wp-s10e-rtr/

    Questions:

    My son and his friend absolutely RIFLED his car into a basketball hoop foundation and smashed the front end, including bending the radio tray (upper brace thing), and breaking off the entire front tab of the frame pan. They also split the data wire on a brand new 2S 5000 lipo, but there's enough wire on either side of the break to solder and shrink tube it. The cells appear OK but I'll keep my eye on it. My son is generally cautious but got a little excited with his friend. He will not drive like that again (or he will lose his car for a long time... ).

    I have a slew of parts on order, including an aftermarket aluminum frame pan, aluminum front and rear diff block/suspension mounts, new stock shock towers, etc. The front differential seems OK (cross fingers).

    Has anyone used a third party aluminum frame pan and/or diff/suspension blocks? Results? I know it's easy to crack aluminum in a severe crash but I was disappointed at the flimsy stock plastic frame, even before the crash. I plan to keep the lower arms plastic to take the edge off big hits, but might eventually upgrade the steering uprights and hubs to aluminum to add precision. Thoughts? What about the carbon fiber radio tray? The carbon frame seems like overkill for anything but racing, but the carbon radio tray isn't crazy expensive and seems like it would stiffen things up while still being resilient in a crash. I may add a road car foam bumper or a stadium truck bumper to give a little more "chance" in case of a future crash.

    I also have aluminum wheel adapters on order to help tighten up some of the slop from the plastic adapters. Has anyone had good luck with these? Are the factory "upgrade" adapters adequate, or should I have gone with aftermarket "pinch bolt" style adapters?

    When his buggy tires are worn, can I put 1/10 truggy wheels on it without further mods? The HSP truggy wheels seem to have a fairly big offset (or maybe it's shallow - the nut is deeply recessed away from the outer wheel and toward the hub). I'd get new gears if I really needed to. I plan to ramp up the spring preload, shock oil weight, etc. to handle the additional strain of bigger wheels.

    HSP truggy wheels: d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/73000184/images/17703_green.jpg

    The other reason I'm doing these upgrades is that this might become my car if he gets bored or decides he wants to try a different style vehicle (truggy, etc.). This will also keep me from blowing the better part of a grand on an HSP/Redcat Rampage XBE, which has been calling to me. My daughter has a 1/10 brushless monster truck and loves it. Later today I'm going to the hobby shop to pick up another 1/10 brushless MT with my son's teacher and HIS son.

    We live in China and got into this with a bunch of other expatriate westerners who hold an informal RC race club every Sunday. It's a blast, and the club is growing every week. We knew there would be repairs, but I didn't expect such a catastrophic crash in the first few weeks. Lipo power corrupts absolutely. I can't imagine these car with 3S packs, which apparently they're approved for... I'm also picking up an ESC programming card to try to tame the explosiveness, increase gear life and increase run times a little.

    Thankfully, parts are dirt cheap here, so all these repairs and parts listed above will cost me in the neighborhood of $35, including the frame.

    I'd also appreciate any other tips you can offer re: suspension and steering tuning, durability mods, DIY tricks, etc.

    Cheers, and thanks for any help!

  16. #16
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzz541 View Post
    I'll bump this thread with a bunch of n00b questions of my own.

    My my son has an HSP 94107 Pro buggy, which I believe is identical to the Tornado EPX Pro. It has a 3300kv brushless motor, fanned waterproof 45A ESC, aluminum shocks, plastic suspension bits, precision wheel bearings, etc.

    ESC: www.hobbystation.co.nz/water-proof-brushless-esc-45a-deans-connector-wp-s10e-rtr/

    Questions:

    My son and his friend absolutely RIFLED his car into a basketball hoop foundation and smashed the front end, including bending the radio tray (upper brace thing), and breaking off the entire front tab of the frame pan. They also split the data wire on a brand new 2S 5000 lipo, but there's enough wire on either side of the break to solder and shrink tube it. The cells appear OK but I'll keep my eye on it. My son is generally cautious but got a little excited with his friend. He will not drive like that again (or he will lose his car for a long time... ).

    I have a slew of parts on order, including an aftermarket aluminum frame pan, aluminum front and rear diff block/suspension mounts, new stock shock towers, etc. The front differential seems OK (cross fingers).

    Has anyone used a third party aluminum frame pan and/or diff/suspension blocks? Results? I know it's easy to crack aluminum in a severe crash but I was disappointed at the flimsy stock plastic frame, even before the crash. I plan to keep the lower arms plastic to take the edge off big hits, but might eventually upgrade the steering uprights and hubs to aluminum to add precision. Thoughts? What about the carbon fiber radio tray? The carbon frame seems like overkill for anything but racing, but the carbon radio tray isn't crazy expensive and seems like it would stiffen things up while still being resilient in a crash. I may add a road car foam bumper or a stadium truck bumper to give a little more "chance" in case of a future crash.

    I also have aluminum wheel adapters on order to help tighten up some of the slop from the plastic adapters. Has anyone had good luck with these? Are the factory "upgrade" adapters adequate, or should I have gone with aftermarket "pinch bolt" style adapters?

    When his buggy tires are worn, can I put 1/10 truggy wheels on it without further mods? The HSP truggy wheels seem to have a fairly big offset (or maybe it's shallow - the nut is deeply recessed away from the outer wheel and toward the hub). I'd get new gears if I really needed to. I plan to ramp up the spring preload, shock oil weight, etc. to handle the additional strain of bigger wheels.

    HSP truggy wheels: d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/73000184/images/17703_green.jpg

    The other reason I'm doing these upgrades is that this might become my car if he gets bored or decides he wants to try a different style vehicle (truggy, etc.). This will also keep me from blowing the better part of a grand on an HSP/Redcat Rampage XBE, which has been calling to me. My daughter has a 1/10 brushless monster truck and loves it. Later today I'm going to the hobby shop to pick up another 1/10 brushless MT with my son's teacher and HIS son.

    We live in China and got into this with a bunch of other expatriate westerners who hold an informal RC race club every Sunday. It's a blast, and the club is growing every week. We knew there would be repairs, but I didn't expect such a catastrophic crash in the first few weeks. Lipo power corrupts absolutely. I can't imagine these car with 3S packs, which apparently they're approved for... I'm also picking up an ESC programming card to try to tame the explosiveness, increase gear life and increase run times a little.

    Thankfully, parts are dirt cheap here, so all these repairs and parts listed above will cost me in the neighborhood of $35, including the frame.

    I'd also appreciate any other tips you can offer re: suspension and steering tuning, durability mods, DIY tricks, etc.

    Cheers, and thanks for any help!
    might wanna double check on the alloy chassis, to my knowledge that is only setup for the nitro version.

    I personally would keep my tornado stock, except for the alloy shock towers (thicker billet ones) and a Tbone racing front bumper.

    I found if you mount the steering and camber links on the hole closest to the hub then it limits the stress and they don't break as easy.

    any tire can work, as lone as the hex sits close to the inside of the wheel (I too don't know if that is shallow or deep offset, LOL)

    all the best crashes happen when you are showing off,
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  17. #17
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    oh, I also put a bit of fuel tubing (small O ring also works) in the inside of the diff output cup. this helps especially on the front, because when turning the dog bone can come very close to being out of the stub axle's cup. the o ring or fuel tubing bit will keep the dogbone on the edge of the diff output cup...still allowing it to move in some when needed (as suspension moves) but not letting it go to far in and then out of the stub axle's cup. Ive had a dogbone bind or even pop out when turning and hitting a jump. after this mod, that is far less likely to happen.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  18. #18
    No it's an aftermarket CNC aluminum pan designed for brushless cars. I'll post photos when I get it. $13 shipped express.

    http://h5.m.taobao.com/awp/core/deta...est=2&bagtype=

  19. #19
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    dang that is nice.
    prices for that stuff there are amazing. a plastic chassis would cost you $15 or so here. id bet a alloy one would run $30-$50.

    normally id say alloy is a waste, but since you can get it that cheap it is much more worth it.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  20. #20
    Cool, meaning between the output cup and the diff housing? Can you post a photo when you have a chance? We've popped a few dog bones already, bent one a little, etc. Until the big crash it was just reassembling Legos.

  21. #21
    Never mind. I now what you mean now about the diff cup. In the cup behind the dogbone to reduce slop.

  22. #22
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzz541 View Post
    Never mind. I now what you mean now about the diff cup. In the cup behind the dogbone to reduce slop.
    you got it.
    I actually found this to be better than the CVD driveshafts! a lot cheaper to.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,


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