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Volcano Gearing

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Old 05-11-2018, 09:42 AM
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Incloud
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Default Volcano Gearing

I'm curious of any owners of the Volcano EXP that have upgraded to brushless what gearing you've used? I just got a Volcano and have an GoolRc 3650 3100kv brushless setup coming today along with 2s Lipo 5200MAH. I grabbed a steel Spur/Pinion set that I believe is the stock ratio also. I'm in question about this due to the fact that a lot of videos I've watched where people made this upgrade have very little control or handling with their vehicles. They appear to be too powerful to drive. From reading I've gathered that brushless an entirely different animal and needs to be tamed. I'm just looking for advice as I'm just coming back and research is all I've got.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:55 PM
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You are right, and I'm guilty of it myself. People often get too much power. Sure, it's fun going blistering fast, but not so much fun navigating rough off-road terrain while being outta control. Brushless motors are no different than brushed motors in terms of you picking out a motor that best fits your needs. For situations where swapping motors is done, I would suggest investing in an infrared thermometer. That will be your best friend in determining optimum gearing. Don't let motor get over 180F. For my "cushion zone", I try and gear my motors to run around 160F.

If you got a 64T spur gear on the Volcano, I'd probably start with a 22T pinion gear.
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Old 05-11-2018, 06:08 PM
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I have a Redcat volcano exp that I converted to brushless. Stock brushed pinion is 17t I suggest run it with stock gearing and see if you want more speed or not then go up on the pinion.

I have some suggestions for which have improved driveability and durability with brushless for me. You may have already done some of this but I thought I would just put it out there.

Ball bearings for the hub carriers
Metal gear servo (then tighten down the servo saver for better tighter steering)
Aluminum front A-arms (normally would not suggest but I have broke too many plastic ones)
Springs in the axle and diff cups (help keep dogbones from popping out front only)
Aluminum hub carriers front and back
Keep a pair of stub axles handy
Check screws for plastic stripped screw holes
Be prepared for bent shock shafts after impacts (aluminum or plastic a arms)
Reinforce the body with gorilla tape or shoe goo

Durablility of the volcano greatly decreases with brushless. They can be a handful to control but simply getting a better servo than stock will help.
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:00 PM
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Thanks guys I really appreciate your feedback. My order just arrived from Amazon with Brushless set up, Lipos and Charger. I also got a steel spur and pinion that are from what you said stock at 64/17 so at this point that's what I will have to try. I'm looking at the following link to cover carriers and steering in aluminum.

https://www.amazon.com/HobbyPark-Alu...uminum+volcano

They come with ball bearings although who knows what quality. I had a Savage that I swappped out the radio system for Spektrum before ever using it so I took the steering servo from the HPI radio and replaced the stock one. Not sure how much better but I'd believe it's a bit more than the RedCat one. I'll use it until it fails. A-Arms I'll order and keep on hand until the stock break. While I'm going through the the truck installing the new gear I'll go over all the screws. Do you happen to have a link to the springs, axles, and cups that you use. Oh, and possibly the infrared Thermometer for temps. I'll go ahead and order it all tonight. Now I just have to figure out this new charger of mine and be safe using these Lipos. I don't want to burn down my house. Beyond that, hoping all goes well installing my new stuff. I drove the truck yesterday with stock battery and motor and wasn't at all impressed. I tried it again today after getting an overnight charge and it was embarrassingly slow. Not that I expected much for $150 and new I's be going brushless. I'm actually only setting this up to play with my dog. I have a Rampage MT coming this week and my buddy custom fabricates racing motors for NEMA (New England Motocross Association) and is going to port the engine for me and make a tuned pipe. That's where my obsession and focus will be on performance parts more so than this build. Once again, Thanks! I'm going to start building my rig now.
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyUs View Post
You are right, and I'm guilty of it myself. People often get too much power. Sure, it's fun going blistering fast, but not so much fun navigating rough off-road terrain while being outta control. Brushless motors are no different than brushed motors in terms of you picking out a motor that best fits your needs. For situations where swapping motors is done, I would suggest investing in an infrared thermometer. That will be your best friend in determining optimum gearing. Don't let motor get over 180F. For my "cushion zone", I try and gear my motors to run around 160F.

If you got a 64T spur gear on the Volcano, I'd probably start with a 22T pinion gear.
Speaking of heat and gearing, I am curious while I have the gears open to play with what you guys use for lubricant. I want to be sure they are running as smooth as possible. And I'm also thinking that rebuilding the shocks may be beneficial as they seem to be very constrained and not very fluent.
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Incloud View Post
I'm looking at the following link to cover carriers and steering in aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/HobbyPark-Aluminum-Steering-Knuckles-Infinitive/dp/B019XWDU70/ref=sr_1_11?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1526093001&sr=1-11&keywords=hobbypark+aluminum+volcano
They come with ball bearings although who knows what quality.
The bearings are junk get different ones.

Originally Posted by Incloud View Post
Do you happen to have a link to the springs, axles, and cups that you use. Oh, and possibly the infrared Thermometer for temps.
Springs (springs from click pens work also) https://www.amainhobbies.com/duratra...xc7337/p642993
Thermometer https://www.harborfreight.com/non-co...ter-93983.html
Axles and shafts https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Dogbones-89-5mm-Redcat-Replacement/dp/B01MSWFEL1/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1526096926&sr=1-2&keywords=volcano+driveshafts

Originally Posted by Incloud View Post
Speaking of heat and gearing, I am curious while I have the gears open to play with what you guys use for lubricant. I want to be sure they are running as smooth as possible. And I'm also thinking that rebuilding the shocks may be beneficial as they seem to be very constrained and not very fluent.
Metal gears are noisy but I don't use anything it justs attracts dirt as long as mesh is good you will be alright. Change the shock oil to whatever wt. you want but i use 30wt because i run off road.

Last edited by Igottabeme; 05-11-2018 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:02 PM
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Awesome, Thanks! Who makes the best bearings? Right now I'm trying my new charger with Lipos and charging at 5a for Lipo 7.4v to 8.2 I believe. Does that sound right and how long should it take? Confusing right now, sure it's not!
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Incloud View Post
Awesome, Thanks! Who makes the best bearings? Right now I'm trying my new charger with Lipos and charging at 5a for Lipo 7.4v to 8.2 I believe. Does that sound right and how long should it take? Confusing right now, sure it's not!
I would say Boca for bearings. But I use Fast Eddy and Avid bearings. 2s lipo should charge to 8.4v (maybe slighly less like 8.34v). Charge 1a for every 1000mah (to be safe but you can charge more depends on the battery) example 2500mah charge at 2.5amps. The regular charge cycle will be faster but the balance charge cycle will take longer. How long it will take to charge will depend on how much you depleted the battery.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:51 PM
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5a is the highest and my batteries are 5200. One is done and stopped at 8.4v. Pretty straight forward but I'm having a hell of a time getting the drive train apart. The tiny Allen screws won't come loose. I definitely need a tool set for this truck. My HPI set doesn't fit a lot of the screws on this. Tools are key in this hobby for sure.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:21 PM
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I already have a bunch of screwdrivers that work for the screws. But for the allen heads I have been using a set like this https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-Sc...ustomerReviews for a while now and they have worked fine for me.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:39 PM
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Luckily I had a nice set in my shed that worked. They certainly didn't design this for maintenance. I got the spur/pinion in and am happy I got the steel. Putting it back together now. I'd really like to get better screws and such as these are terribly cheap. I feel better getting to know the workings of the tranny now. Everything is going good so far! Looks like an all nighter for me! I'm debating whether or not to use thread lock because I'm bound to be taking apart before long. You have to dismantle the truck for simple changes it seems.
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Old 05-12-2018, 12:00 AM
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Whoah! Got it going and it's night and day difference. Didn't go crazy but all seems good. Doesn't feel hot at all after about 10 minutes of opening it up back and forth. What are you suppose to do with the switch? No apparent place to mount it to.
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Old 05-12-2018, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Incloud View Post
What are you suppose to do with the switch? No apparent place to mount it to.
I had a esc like that there is not much surface area on the switch for tape to hold so I zip tied it on top of the chassis brace.
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:03 AM
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I did the same. Not much to do.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:02 AM
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I have a tornado and I have done a lot of work to it. I went with a castle creations sidewinder 4 and 4600kv brushless motor, using hyperion g7 lihv 4400 mha Batts. So first thing I learned is the dogbone style axles always snap. Even the cvd. So I ended up finding a mod posted on the net that works wonderfully. It replaces both front and rear axles with traxxas style axle mounts so you can run a CV axle. You need a drill bit (can't recall exact size) a round file, CA glue, 2 pairs of traxxas diff output stubs, plastic to metal flexible sealant, diff oil, and grease. Next you need axles, I went with hotracing axles for the traxxas stampede 4x4 but use 2 sets of the font axles because they fit your bearing sizes perfectly. The front axle female part need a 4 to 5 mm shave though for proper turning. Btw I went with the aluminum hubs and carriers front and rear. Next you will need a hardened steel pinion due to the extra weight. I run a 20 tooth from hot racing with 2.2 tires and a 17 for 3.8 stadium truck tires. you will also want a stroger servo, and I recommend the aluminium servo saver set and akerman bar, and the stronger shock towers (2 sets of front) you will bend them if you do what I do and launch your rc off jumps. 2 sets because when you bend one you can do a quick swap and straighten the other out later. If you want to run larger tires I would recommend getting a steel center dogbone, the aluminum ones snap. Google them amazon and choose your supplier, they are all the same part. If you find you have sloppy steering you can swap to traxxas steering links from the rustler I believe, they are not ball links, they screw in. I also use little brash bushinges on my servo saver through the top brace or radio tray I think it's called. This allows you to tighten both sides of the servo saver and not cause any binding issues. Another thing for steering is use a stack of small washers on the side the servo connects to between the servo saver and the radio tray, this will stop your servo saver from loosening the spring loaded nut. Do not go to tight though or you can strip your servo in a crash. If you want a step by step of anything I have mentioned pm me and I will break it down for you. I will share photos as well, I just can't public post photos yet, I need 10 posts
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Rukik View Post
I have a tornado and I have done a lot of work to it. I went with a castle creations sidewinder 4 and 4600kv brushless motor, using hyperion g7 lihv 4400 mha Batts. So first thing I learned is the dogbone style axles always snap. Even the cvd. So I ended up finding a mod posted on the net that works wonderfully. It replaces both front and rear axles with traxxas style axle mounts so you can run a CV axle. You need a drill bit (can't recall exact size) a round file, CA glue, 2 pairs of traxxas diff output stubs, plastic to metal flexible sealant, diff oil, and grease. Next you need axles, I went with hotracing axles for the traxxas stampede 4x4 but use 2 sets of the font axles because they fit your bearing sizes perfectly. The front axle female part need a 4 to 5 mm shave though for proper turning. Btw I went with the aluminum hubs and carriers front and rear. Next you will need a hardened steel pinion due to the extra weight. I run a 20 tooth from hot racing with 2.2 tires and a 17 for 3.8 stadium truck tires. you will also want a stroger servo, and I recommend the aluminium servo saver set and akerman bar, and the stronger shock towers (2 sets of front) you will bend them if you do what I do and launch your rc off jumps. 2 sets because when you bend one you can do a quick swap and straighten the other out later. If you want to run larger tires I would recommend getting a steel center dogbone, the aluminum ones snap. Google them amazon and choose your supplier, they are all the same part. If you find you have sloppy steering you can swap to traxxas steering links from the rustler I believe, they are not ball links, they screw in. I also use little brash bushinges on my servo saver through the top brace or radio tray I think it's called. This allows you to tighten both sides of the servo saver and not cause any binding issues. Another thing for steering is use a stack of small washers on the side the servo connects to between the servo saver and the radio tray, this will stop your servo saver from loosening the spring loaded nut. Do not go to tight though or you can strip your servo in a crash. If you want a step by step of anything I have mentioned pm me and I will break it down for you. I will share photos as well, I just can't public post photos yet, I need 10 posts
Thanks for the response! Wish I'd heard from you yesterday as I just ordered a few parts to fix my Volcano. It has been sitting broken for a month now with no time to repair it. I did strip the servo twice trying to get my steering adjusted and just ordered an aluminum metal geared high torque yesterday. I also have wicked wobbly wheels and bent three dog bones and a couple stub axles. There doesn't seem to be much as far as options for upgrading the axle, stubs to a more sturdy solution but I ordered steel and will see how it goes. I also had two shocks let loose due to no thread lock so had to order new shocks (aluminum). It's a nice little truck but if I'd known how much I would be putting into it I would have splurged for a better model that was more user friendly maintenance wise. I'm going to get it going and mainly use it on the street in open areas trying not to break it. I'm older now and enjoy the hobby but the days of wasting money and tinkering for hours are over for me. It's fun but not a priority these days! Thanks for the feedback and suggestions, much appreciated...
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:07 AM
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Your welcome, oh I am not sure if it will work on the volcano, but I am using traxxas rustler big bore shocks, it's a night and day difference. Af for the axles I will share picts of my setup for you once I am able. I was having the same problem with the tornado, it's been a good 8 months since I did the axle mod and the only issue I have had is the plastic diff cups that are screwed to the main diff gear. They tend to tear them selves apart every 20 hours or so, at least it's around 5 dollars for 2 cups and it's less then an hour to change both. That and shock towers from abusive driving! Other then that I have to say it has been maintenence free. I know how you feel I used to have to fix something daily. The axle setup is sort of pricy, it cost me about $160 and time but I have to say it was well worth it. Now I get to drive a stable rc, not spend my time on the work bench.
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Rukik View Post
Your welcome, oh I am not sure if it will work on the volcano, but I am using traxxas rustler big bore shocks, it's a night and day difference. Af for the axles I will share picts of my setup for you once I am able. I was having the same problem with the tornado, it's been a good 8 months since I did the axle mod and the only issue I have had is the plastic diff cups that are screwed to the main diff gear. They tend to tear them selves apart every 20 hours or so, at least it's around 5 dollars for 2 cups and it's less then an hour to change both. That and shock towers from abusive driving! Other then that I have to say it has been maintenence free. I know how you feel I used to have to fix something daily. The axle setup is sort of pricy, it cost me about $160 and time but I have to say it was well worth it. Now I get to drive a stable rc, not spend my time on the work bench.
My parts come today and will try and get it back together. When I'm done I'll post some pictures and results. Thanks!
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