"OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
#152
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Even if you had a higher quality AM it would reduce that.
Also be sure your control arms are not in a bind. If they are it will have the servo ALWAYS working to try to get to center.
Also be sure your control arms are not in a bind. If they are it will have the servo ALWAYS working to try to get to center.
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
I will check that the next time out. Th e new radio should be here in about 2-5 days. thanks for the info. How do you tell when the servo is at center?
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Ok this could get real in depth but I will try to keep it short.
1. Remove all the control horns (arms) for the servos. Remove the screw and gently lift off the horn.
2. Turn on the radio, place both the steering and throttle trim knobs to ZERO, or center.
3. Turn on the car.
4. The servos will go to that position, you can operate the steering and throttle to make them move. But this is not neccessary or useful. It just shows you that they work.
5. Gently place the control horns back on the servos.
You will have to readjust the steering and throttle for the new setting. This is the time to check for control linkage binding.
1. Remove all the control horns (arms) for the servos. Remove the screw and gently lift off the horn.
2. Turn on the radio, place both the steering and throttle trim knobs to ZERO, or center.
3. Turn on the car.
4. The servos will go to that position, you can operate the steering and throttle to make them move. But this is not neccessary or useful. It just shows you that they work.
5. Gently place the control horns back on the servos.
You will have to readjust the steering and throttle for the new setting. This is the time to check for control linkage binding.
#155
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Will do thanks again! Is there a beginers guide/ manual that I could buy and refrence instead of being like a two year old (why?, how?)?
Athough getting real feed back is great, but it might be tiresome on the other end. Do you own the volcano or one of the buggys?
Athough getting real feed back is great, but it might be tiresome on the other end. Do you own the volcano or one of the buggys?
#156
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
I can get you guys all parts and manuals you need.. let me know. and I'm not trying to bust in on the thread but.. These himotos have been around for a while now.. Thanks.
#157
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
I had no idea when I started this thread it would grow to 7 pages so soon. I do want to remind people though, that there is a buggy forum too
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37...tm.htm#3775361
I have the 1/8th buggy and it has been a blast so far. I haven't had many problems, so maybe that's why there's not as much activity, but I'm looking forward to when people start finding tweaks and ideas and posting there too.
It seeems the trucks have been very popular and I'm glad this thread will hopefully help some of the frustration some new owners have had with them. Anyone try boiling the arms yet? I am thinking this might help a lot, some of the easy breaking that has been going on. Worth a try at least. I don't have a truck or I'd try it for the heck of it.
Darrin- could you boil one and do a stress test on one vs the other so people would know if it works (or perhaps have someone else do it for you?)
Send me the arms and I'll do the test for you and can add it to the tutorials.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37...tm.htm#3775361
I have the 1/8th buggy and it has been a blast so far. I haven't had many problems, so maybe that's why there's not as much activity, but I'm looking forward to when people start finding tweaks and ideas and posting there too.
It seeems the trucks have been very popular and I'm glad this thread will hopefully help some of the frustration some new owners have had with them. Anyone try boiling the arms yet? I am thinking this might help a lot, some of the easy breaking that has been going on. Worth a try at least. I don't have a truck or I'd try it for the heck of it.
Darrin- could you boil one and do a stress test on one vs the other so people would know if it works (or perhaps have someone else do it for you?)
Send me the arms and I'll do the test for you and can add it to the tutorials.
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Is it possible to get the 35 tooth drive gear in metal for the Volcano Stx ?
the plastic one is getting chewed insideout.[:@]
the plastic one is getting chewed insideout.[:@]
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Does anyone have any ideas on a aftermarket tuned pipe for the .18 engine and is there any replacement aftermarket engines that will fit where the existing one is????
Found some Traxxas parts that match up if anyone is interested. Exhaust header, part number 4940. Its the round one which is much better than the square one that is on there now. Also A tuned pipe to go with that header part number 4942. Both Traxxas part numbers.
#161
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
"trpastor"
As soon as I get the new front control arms I ordered for my buggy I am going to tear the entire front down and boil everything..(not sure if I am going to mess with the back control arms just yet)..I will let you know how the fronts stand up!
As soon as I get the new front control arms I ordered for my buggy I am going to tear the entire front down and boil everything..(not sure if I am going to mess with the back control arms just yet)..I will let you know how the fronts stand up!
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
glowhead,
your best bet is to order a new gear box (part #08023) at redcatracing.com for about $39.00, disassemble the original and take it to the local hobby shop and ask for some help matching them up. But haveing a metal gear may cause to much stress on the motor ie in a crash the plastic gears give-shred away to keep the motor from going full tilt to a complete stand still, this I know I've all ready done it. Just like everyone that has talked about upgradeing to metal/ alloy suspension parts- it may cause more damage to more expensive things in the long run. Just remember physics...what is in motion tends to stay in motion.
your best bet is to order a new gear box (part #08023) at redcatracing.com for about $39.00, disassemble the original and take it to the local hobby shop and ask for some help matching them up. But haveing a metal gear may cause to much stress on the motor ie in a crash the plastic gears give-shred away to keep the motor from going full tilt to a complete stand still, this I know I've all ready done it. Just like everyone that has talked about upgradeing to metal/ alloy suspension parts- it may cause more damage to more expensive things in the long run. Just remember physics...what is in motion tends to stay in motion.
#164
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Man, I have been away for a couple of days and this place has been jumping!. Its great to have the ower of redcat racing come on the fourm and let us know that they are there for us and listening. I had a customer who ordered a truck and buggy and both controllers were bad. One call and redcat sent out new controllers the same day free of charge. I also had a customer who ordered 4 trucks and 1 of the bodies were cracked. One call and a new body was on the way. I have to say that they have treated me and my customers right.
Now back on the alumimum upgrade parts. If redcat were to produce the rear axle holder, steering arm, door type mounts, steering A, steering B and the steering connecting rod, I think these trucks would realy be unstopable. I was able to replace ALL of this with the aluminum pieces from a DURATRAX Maximum mt pro. I was mistaken when I said traxxas in a previous post. I am new to the hobby as well but, look forward to seeing the upgraded parts from redcat.
Later
Now back on the alumimum upgrade parts. If redcat were to produce the rear axle holder, steering arm, door type mounts, steering A, steering B and the steering connecting rod, I think these trucks would realy be unstopable. I was able to replace ALL of this with the aluminum pieces from a DURATRAX Maximum mt pro. I was mistaken when I said traxxas in a previous post. I am new to the hobby as well but, look forward to seeing the upgraded parts from redcat.
Later
#165
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Darin,
Welcome to the forums, I appreciate your taking the time to follow these.
There is a MAJOR difference between the buggy and truck forums. It's just like heaven and hell. There clearly is an inferiority problem with the plastics of the truck and it's design.
Welcome to the forums, I appreciate your taking the time to follow these.
There is a MAJOR difference between the buggy and truck forums. It's just like heaven and hell. There clearly is an inferiority problem with the plastics of the truck and it's design.
Hey all, I know that neg stuff isn't what you wanted, so we'll start off with the positive... I'm 2 days new into r/c trucks and this site seems pretty positive, got a lot of useful info from the links provided.
I just got two of the Volcano STX's off of Ebay for $230/each PLUS shipping. I didn't want to admit that, especially after seeing the dealer prices. I've had these out with my buddy for a total of 20 minutes...
1. Body lasted 10 minutes.
2. Rear stub axle carrier broke.
3. Starter coil spring broke.
4 Starter pull string broke.
5. Lower tie-rod broke.
6. Front shock tower broke.
When will the breakages stop? It's absolutely ridiculous to expect these things to happen after such a short amount of run-time. Especially during a break-in period where we haven't even been running them that hard.
We've had to restrain ourselves after seeing the vids on the redcat website, imagining doing the jumps with our trucks... But if we're suffering the kind of breakages we're getting from a smooth parking lot and a basball diamond, what's gonna happen if we try them "off-road" and over jumps?!?
But it seems that nearly every part is made out of the same easily broken plastic... will it take mod-ing every one of these pieces to a better material before these breakages stop cutting our time short? Right now I'm starting to think that having to go home because I've run out of fuel is a dream.
I just got two of the Volcano STX's off of Ebay for $230/each PLUS shipping. I didn't want to admit that, especially after seeing the dealer prices. I've had these out with my buddy for a total of 20 minutes...
1. Body lasted 10 minutes.
2. Rear stub axle carrier broke.
3. Starter coil spring broke.
4 Starter pull string broke.
5. Lower tie-rod broke.
6. Front shock tower broke.
When will the breakages stop? It's absolutely ridiculous to expect these things to happen after such a short amount of run-time. Especially during a break-in period where we haven't even been running them that hard.
We've had to restrain ourselves after seeing the vids on the redcat website, imagining doing the jumps with our trucks... But if we're suffering the kind of breakages we're getting from a smooth parking lot and a basball diamond, what's gonna happen if we try them "off-road" and over jumps?!?
But it seems that nearly every part is made out of the same easily broken plastic... will it take mod-ing every one of these pieces to a better material before these breakages stop cutting our time short? Right now I'm starting to think that having to go home because I've run out of fuel is a dream.
#166
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
Not sure if the same plastics are used in BOTH the trucks and buggies...but I would think they are the same....either way...plastic breaks if you hit something hard enough...and if the temp outside is below 60 degrees...things are even MORE likely to break..
Case in point....this is what happens when you hit something solid or tag the end of a curb doing 30-40 MPH like I did...things like this will happen no matter WHAT brand you may own..
Case in point....this is what happens when you hit something solid or tag the end of a curb doing 30-40 MPH like I did...things like this will happen no matter WHAT brand you may own..
#168
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
LOL!!...yeah that seems to be a "fix" for a lot of people...but I have ordered new control arms...just waiting with baited breath for them to get here...I'm DYING to finish breaking this thing in and see what it can really do!
#169
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
can i ask who is redcat racing? I've checked out there site and replied to doing tech advise and pics etc for them. But i really don't know. Thanks.
#170
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
oh i forgot.. we all know weight is a big difference in racing.. etc. but for bashing.. get yourself a can or two of plastidip.. will coat nice and even your parts that your worried about wrecking.. and comes in a ton of colors.. does not add much weight at all. Surrounds em in rubber.
#171
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
But on a serious note,,,I'm looking to buy an RC truck or buggy. I've never owned one, so yeah, I'm a newbie. Anyways, I've been doing alot of research on both electric and nitro and when it comes to redcatracing products, NO ONE can beat there prices. I've always been told that nitro is more expensive, but not in this case. So, I'm going with redcatracing. I just have a couple of questions, first, is there an advantage of a truck over a buggy? I will want something for most situations, including snow. Second, can these vehicles be ran in snow and wet conditions? No I'm not talking about rain, just wet outside and snow. Thanks for any help or info.
#172
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RE: OFFICIAL Redcat Racing TRUCK thread
well if your a newbie.. than any person would tell you smartech.. but.. himoto is the second best of the two.. redcat racing does not make these vehicles.. but does have good pricing and parts availability.. If you want a nitro something let me know via email..