jcam54

The best place I found to break in my truck was at a elementry school play ground. The usualy have big open play ground/ baseball--soccer fields. Or even the parking lot for the teachers works great.

Thought I'd put my 2 cents in

jcam54

I was goofing off on the web and found this site http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...003&type=store and the Team Infinty .18 motor looks and is priced less than our stock vx.18....could this be the same motor? There is some specs on the Infinity motor, it (if not the same motor as ours) may have the same specs (or close to it)!!!!!

Thought I would share this info!

Port
3

Displacement
2.85 cc. / 0.18 cu.in

Bore / mm
16.4

Stroke / mm
13.5

Practical RPM Range
4,500~28,000

Weight / g
255

Exhaust
Side

Carburetor
Rotary

Pull Starter
Yes

skeeterbonez

hey guys, i know its probably posted somewhere but ive read till my eyes hurt an havent seen anything, i was wondering if someone could help me with tune my engine up, its got to be very very hard to start and ive even got a shaft starter on my .18, 1/10 scale tornado xp, and then when you get it started it dont idle very good at all, and sometimes if im running it and open the throttle up like in a long straight stretch its like it runs out of fuel, but will have plenty in it, ive turned every screw on it, and the book says that the high idle screw should be between 1 and 1/2 turns from closed and from factory my was about 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 turns it wont even start at 1 1/2 turns primming or not, when it runs and im not working on it im spendin a lot of time going after it and restarting it a friend of mine just bought a traxxas rustler and man it starts great and idles smooth no stalling and very fast he has had it a couple of weeks and horrific jumps and crashes and keeps telling me he cant tear his up he hasnt broke anything, except shreaded his rear tires, any info on getting my engine tuned in would be greatly appreciated so i can try to out run that rustler THANKS ALL FOR ALL THE INFO

levid

skeeterbonz i would try to go to exact factry settings then try starting it and keep opening 1 screw at a time use your throttle trim on radio and set it high then close or open your fuel ine and see how high your enegine is revving don't mess with the screw next to the throttle arm

N3W2R/C

i am havign teh same problem like i cant get mine to idle and just sit there without moving it always wants to keep rolling if anybody has any advice on how to fine tune it let me know

levid

if it starts go to the high idle screw adjust turn in or out give gas back and forth listen to the the pipe see if it has power or not if not turn gas screw in or out just as little not alot

N3W2R/C

which one is teh high idle screw like there are three of them and teh instruction manual isnt very clear on which one is which,

levid

it needs to open the little black screw under the air filter

Xeller8

The idle speed screw is under the air filter..

One thing you guys need to keep in mind is to make SMALL adjustments at a time (like 1/16th-1/8th turns) and give the motor a little time to adjust to the new settings...the changes won't be immediate...

One of the most important things to remember when tuning one of these things is PATIENCE!

levid

very well put Xeller8

Xeller8

Skeeter...

If you turned the idle screw that far from factory then it probably WON'T start or run...you need to readjust that screw while looking down the throat of the carburator....you need to have a gap of about 1/16 of an inch or so with the throttle in neutral position..

If you guys just start turning screws in a fit of frustration you will never get it running right.

I just got a Volcano STX the other day...took it out of the box...fueled it up...primed it and in 3 pulls it started...I had to fine tune it during and after break in and I have been running the piss out of it the last couple of days and it has been running BEAUTIFULLY!



P.S...thanks Levid!

levid

Xeller8 where did you get the tuned pipe

Xeller8

Levid....If you are talking about my 'Cane XP...it came with it...

Speaking of exhaust...you made a comment a while back about drillling out the exhaust opening...just exactly what were you referring to?...are you talking about the opening on these .18 truck motors?

Like I stated earlier...I just added a truck to my stable and just LOVE it so far...it runs like a champ....yes...I've broken a few things....mainly hub carriers (seems to be the weakest point on the trucks)...but that is also mainly due to the cold weather and running into things....LOL!

And Skeeter....if we can get your truck tuned the way it should be you should be able to SMOKE that Rustler!

*edit*

OOPS.....I just thought of something...I think it was ENTITY that was talking about drilling out the exhaust opening....not YOU Levid...sorry for the confusion.

So...Entity....tell me more about this.

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

Just get the round header from traxxis. That is really open like the one that jcam got. same thing..

Xeller8

How does that work on these trucks??.....the exhaust port on the motor is rectangular.

skeeterbonez

Thanks Guys, I remeber where the high idle screw was set at from factory but would you no where to set the screw in the center of the throttle arm, and the one under the air filter, for a starting point then maybe I can fine tune it from there, OHH YEA, just thought id pass along that I broke an a-arm or lower control arm and a steering hub the part your steering linkage mounts to, and I found some HPI parts that was relly close and took my dremmel tool and made some mods and bolted up and so far has been holding up very well, found parts at hobby shop in a half price box some were carbon graphite some were not and was a little time consuming but anyway just thought i would pass along really need engine running,

jcam54

hey guys!! the exhaust manifold has a rectangler opening that meets up to the "header" of the tuned pipe, the header will also have the same opening then converts to a tubular pipe.

the drilling of the pipe goes like this---drill out the exhaust exit extension of the stock pipe to create less back pressure ( same as blowing threw a small straw (not much air flow) blow threw a larger straw more air flow

Xeller8

O.K Skeeter....

First off...there is no "high idle" screw....there is an idle speed screw (under the air filter)...a low speed mixture screw (in the middle of the throttle arm)..that controls mixture from idle to about 50% throttle....then there is the high speed mixture screw which controls the mixture from 50% to W.F.O. throttle..(sticking UP with the sleeve around it next to the air filter)...

The way MINE is set is.....the idle speed screw is set so there is about a 1/16th of an inch opening in the carb..(maybe just a shade more)....the low speed is set about 2 1/2 turns out (there is about a 1/16th of an inch from the outer edge of the housing that the screw sits in and the head of the screw...follow that?).....then....the high speed screw is set just about flush with the outside edge of the sleeve it is housed in....that SHOULD get you running and you can fine tune it from there..


And remember....once you get it running....SMALL adjustments at a time (1/16th-1/8th turns) and give it time to acclimate to the changes....I can't stress enough how important patience is when tuning these things....a very minor adjustment can make it run great or run like crap...

Let me kow how this works for you.

jcam54

feul

just wondering what everybody is runing

powermaster 20% nitro formula 16

N3W2R/C

i am running 20% nitro formula 16 also

jcam54

scottharp, chubbysdad--your dealers right? Shoot me a pm for my e-mail for parts/ upgrade listings, I would like to get my future breakage replacements from you stand up guys.

jcam54

I've also noticed on the servo side of truck my rear tire "wiggles" side to side, up and down more than the rest of the tires. I checked for breakage and if all screws/ fasteners were tight--they are!! Any sugestions???

skeeterbonez

Thanks alot guys I will try that setting and go from that hopefully that will get me close, and im running 20% BLUE THUNDER from DYNAMITE, AGAIN THANKS AND I'LL LET YOU KNOW SOMETHING TOMMORROW ON HOW IT GOES.

galaszuk

Hello Everybody,

Sorry to just jump in like this but I find some of the conversation a little misleading! I have never made many posts but I do use this site to do research for my hobby business in Australia and I do not want a good product to get a bad rap because of bad information.

Firstly the cars, trucks and buggies that you are all talking about are not redcat or himoto. The real name is actually Hispeed or HSP. They are made in the South of China and are marketed under whatever name the marketer wants if they are willing to buy enough of them.

The VX motor is actually made by a company named Chun Yang in Taiwan. They actually make some motors for other top companies such as Academy and Mugen Seki. They also make the FEEND motors you can see in Australia.

As for the tuning:
You should start with the highspeed needle at about 3 and 1/2 turns and the low end needle at about 2 and 3/4 (flush with the inside of the chamfer) turns for initial break-in and heat cycle the parts as you would on any other engine. After 2-3 tanks of fuel you can begin to tune the hispeed needle by turning it about 1/8th of a turn and then running half a tank. You repeat this until the car/truck/buggy does not increase in top speed anymore. During this time it may be hard for you to get the car/truck/buggy to take of so you need to ease the throttle on very gently. Once you have maximum speed, back off the screw 1/8th of a turn.

As for the lowspeed needle (inside the throttle arm) you can tune it the same as the top until you get the car to take off without hesitation when pulling your trigger to full throttle instantly. Then also back it off 1/8th of a turn.

PS: Make sure you tune the hispeed first then the lowspeed and never run-in an engine with the body on!!!

You may have to make slight changes depending on the weather conditions (eg. Hot, cold, rainy, humid etc.) but only slightly. Hope this helps the newbies.

The VX-18 is obviously not a race engine and cannot compete with motors like novarossi, sts, picco etc but it will hold its own agains most when tuned correctly. Quite posible to get them to run around 80+kph for the two speed.

Just to assure some of you I have run all of the 1/10 scale models and have had great succes with them, even the truck. I have rolled it, flipped it, jumped it etc. and had minimal breakages. I have even used a stronger motor and used the two-speed gearbox in it. Though the gears in the gearbox get a little sloppy and have some play after some time. I must admit though that the small shipment I bought mid last year has quite flexible A-arms etc. Sometimes too flexible.
A good set of threaded shocks will do wonders in soaking up the shock associated with jumping which can cause the plastic of ANY car to fail. If you cannot put high volume oil shocks on then make sure you have sufficient oil in the shocks and all air bubbles are removed in order for the shock to do its job properely.

I have had some small problems with the controllers and servos but mostly only when running near lots of metal posts. Like on a netball field. Also if you have the steering sensitivity too high and the servo max's out you car is likely to go full throttle in a cirle or even worse in a straight line. So I suggest you turn the sensitivity down a little and always make sure your batteries are fully charged.

As for upgrades I think you will find that alot of HPI stuff will fit them. Especially the On-road (Sonic). I think you call it the Lightning. If you are looking for good low cost pipes you should look at HEC or JPL. Many pipes are made by the same manufacturer and just stamped differently the same as Hispeed=HSP=Himoto=Redcat.

Hope this helps someone!

Darin (Darren). If you read this I wouldn't mind having a chat with you sometime. Dealer to Dealer even though we are on different continents. I feel our interests and goals are the same!

Xeller8

Galaszuk....welcome to the forums and we look forward to you joing in on the discussions...glad to have you aboard..."mate"!


I'm a little confused however...what is it that you have found so misleading??

We already established the fact that these cars and trucks are NOT BUILT by Himoto or Redcat...as with MANY brands (even some of the bigger name more popular brands) the cars and trucks are built by a certain manufacturer and are just "branded" by higher volume re-salers...

As for tuning?....I think it has been made pretty clear MANY times by several of us on how to tune these things..

Please don't take offense to any of my comments...anything you can ad is definitely helpful to newcomers and is greatly appreciated...I am just curious as to what you have found to be misleading and if others have felt the same way then we will need to figure out how to be more clear and concise when trying to help people trouble shoot and get the most out of their rides.

Again...we are glad to have you here! [8D]