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"OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

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Old 05-15-2008, 02:52 AM
  #3251
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hey Bash_N_Corn - that can be a problem with roto and pull starts. I have never owned a roto start, but have had it happen with a couple of pull starts over the years.
Sometimes they are working fine, you take them off for engine maintainence and when they go back on they bind up [:@]. Maybe a couple of very thin washers, but be careful everything is still engaging nice and tight. Also with some rear start units like that they rely on the pull start / rotostart mechanisim to hold the crank in place without any slop. If you have any gaps this might allow a bit of crankshaft lateral movement, which may not be a cool idea.
I would try tightening everything up gentlly and giving it a spin. Might just need to spin over a few times to centre everything up. If it doesn't feel right after that I am out of ideas sorry.
To be honest, I think the best solution is to leave the pull start on and just buy a starter box. You will never go back - they make life sooooooo easy. [8D]
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:51 AM
  #3252
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Thanks for the help, I have solved the mystery, the small gear that the wand goes into had tiny burrs in the wand pin slots and on the surface that makes contact with the inside of the brass bushing.... works perfectly now... to be honest I only bought it cause I saw it on ebay really cheap.........#@& you ebay! [sm=48_48.gif]
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Old 05-16-2008, 01:05 AM
  #3253
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Sweet, glad it all worked out Those roto starts look kinda neat. Sort of like starting a Formula 1 or Indy car up
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:28 PM
  #3254
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hey - I'm trying to use a Duratrax starter box, but the starter wheel doesn't reach the fly wheel. Has anyone used one of these on the cane? Can the engine be lowered or a larger fly wheel be put on? It doesn't look like there is much space between the fly wheel and carb, so a larger fly wheel might not work. I thought I read somewhere that someone used an ofna 10245 starter box, but I'm not sure. I'd like to get the one I already have to work than go buy another one. It looks like there is about .30 inches from the flywhel to the botom of the chassis.
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:08 AM
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

you might have to buy some smaller engine mounts, thats what i had to do for my buggy to get it to reach the flywheel.

Hope this helps

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Old 05-24-2008, 08:18 AM
  #3256
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

TTR_EB4

What engine mounts did you get to make it work - do you have a P/N? Did you need to remove the pullstart? I did some searching and it looks like some people removed the pullstart and used a pullstart eliminator backplate like this

[link]http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/4331[/link]

Thx
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Old 05-26-2008, 12:49 AM
  #3257
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

well i purchased some smaller engine mounts from my local hobbie shop, and mine has a pullstart, you dont have to remove it, only if you want to, it will free up your engine better if you remove it but then if your starter box stuffs up, What are you going to use to start ya car. thats why i kept mine on,

If you have any other problems, just ask,

Cheers,

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Old 05-27-2008, 10:20 AM
  #3258
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

My redcat seems to run at 310-320F constantly, i haven't noticed any decrease in performance. If this temperature is high, what should it be running at, and how could i go about making it run cooler. Also, for some reason when i go full throttle on remote car seems to want to stall. I adjusted throttle trim but it didn't help any.

THanks,
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:05 PM
  #3259
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hi bocajrs, That does sound a little high. All motors are different, but a general rule of thumb is that motors like to or should be run between 220 - 260 F
Sounds like you are too lean on the HSN and too rich on the LSN, with perhaps your idle gap too large. This combination causes a "false tune" which sees the car running fairly normal, but getting very hot at the end of a tank. You may also notice when you bring the car in it idles for a short while then the revs drop considerably. This is a sign of too wide an idle gap and too rich an LSN.
Check and make sure your idle gap is no more than .7mm (very small). Richen the HSN and warm the car up. Do some full throttle runs and get it running sweet at the top end with plenty of smoke. Now lean the LSN an hour at a time only (most motors are very sensitive to LSN adjustments), do a short run and bring the car in listening to the idle. Keep leaning the LSN until you have a steady idle with no drop in revs. Now and only now, adjust the idle if necessary to what you want as a nice idle speed. Do a pinch test on the fuel tubing close to the carb. When you pinch the tubing you should get only a "slight" increase in revs (about 500 - 800 rpm) for a about 4 seconds then the motor should die.
If the engine dies straight away with no increase in revs - your LSN is too lean. If the revs jump up quite high very quickly - your LSN is too rich.
Get these settings right and you should have excellent top end performance with really sharp off the mark performance on the bottom end, and temps should be around 230.
Temps will depend on fuel type, weather conditions, your brand of temp gun etc, but 230 is a good ball park figure to aim at. Once you have this set up just tune by sound, smoke and performance and just use the temp gun as a reference from time to time if you loose tune. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:17 PM
  #3260
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

I keep a thermostat sensor attached to the receiver box on the car itself which is close to the engine, probably not the best way to gauge temperature of engine.

Thanks,
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:18 PM
  #3261
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

meant temperature display
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:22 PM
  #3262
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Normally temps are taken at the glow plug by pointing the temp gun into the centre of the cooling head. If car is running good and idle is steady it might pay to check your temp measuring equipment against someone elses temp gun in case it's faulty.
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:26 PM
  #3263
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

I have a question for you buggy men, the rear wheels on my cane are toed in at the front, is there an adjustment to align these wheels? I have tried everything to square them up with the chassis. I am trying to get my chassis rolling as free as possible. my other concern is rear tire wear with this condition.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:05 PM
  #3264
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)


Quote:
ORIGINAL: bash_N_corn

I have a question for you buggy men, the rear wheels on my cane are toed in at the front, is there an adjustment to align these wheels? I have tried everything to square them up with the chassis. I am trying to get my chassis rolling as free as possible. my other concern is rear tire wear with this condition.
That's how they are meant to be my man !!! They are toed in so the buggy drives straight. Normal set up (which is how your cane would have come I would say) is 3 deg toe in on rear. You can alter them but If you get them too straight it will adversly effect your handling. I can't remember how the cane holds the rear hinge pins in, but that is where the adjustment will be. Normally you have plastic inserts with different holes which fit into the rear lower hinge pin holder. These hold the hinge pins at an angle and give you the 3, 2 or 1 deg of toe in. If you have the rear wheels set too straight you will lose the rear end of the car all the time, plus you don't get the on power steering you should because you are not getting the directional drive from the rear of the buggy.

Normal set up is:

Rear wheels 3 deg toes in with approx 2 deg of negative camber
Front wheels 1 - 1.5 deg toe out and approx 1.5 deg negative camber

This will make for pretty good handling on most tracks, but is only the start. There are a multitude of caster, camber, roll centre, shock spring, shock oil and sway bar settings to get your buggy handling just how you want it for the track you run.
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:55 PM
  #3265
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hello, I'm considering purchasing the Redcat 1/8th scale Tremor. Is this the same as yours?? I'm also considering purchasing the Redcat Tornado BB. With the Tornado I've read that i should change the cluch bell and the clutch spring right off the bat (before I even run it). Have you heard of doing anything like this with the Tremor also?? Any info you got for me would be appreciated!! Thanks!

P.S. I'm pretty new to the RC scene. My first one was a Traxxas Revo but that was about a year ago.
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:24 PM
  #3266
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

this is the buggy thread mate try the tremor thread
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:36 PM
  #3267
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Sorry, but on Ebay (where I saw the listing) it says the Tremor XTB Redcat Nitro RC Buggy. I though I was in the right place. Do I have something mixed up??
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Old 05-29-2008, 03:08 PM
  #3268
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

The tremor is 1/16th not 1/8th. Its a lot smaller.
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Old 05-29-2008, 03:13 PM
  #3269
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_53...tm.htm#5342310

theres the tremor thread. But its not 1/8th.
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:24 PM
  #3270
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Does this filter fit on the Hurricane XP (K&N AIR FILTER T MAXX SAVAGE X REVO JATO OFNA 62-2480)



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Old 06-16-2008, 08:51 AM
  #3271
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Which glow plug is the recommended/ideal for the hurricane xp?
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Old 06-16-2008, 06:19 PM
  #3272
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

I run os #8 on sh.28's...they work great
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:54 PM
  #3273
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hi guys - long time no see
Been very quite on here lately.
How is everyones buggy going ???
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:31 PM
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

just been busy grizz....I havent been online much...how ya doing?...havent ran rc's in awhile...I been going through withdrawls....I got 2 new ones to break in...not sure if I can get it done 2morrow or not...how is racing going...anyways seen ya and wanted to say hey
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Old 06-21-2008, 07:25 AM
  #3275
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Yeah, I have been busy at work too. Weather not to good this time of year down here, so racing has been called off due to rain for the last few meetings.
Had a bit of a consolidation of my RC gear. I had too much "stuff" lying around and had a big sell up on our local on-line auction site.
Put the profits into a new Spektrum DX3R controller and servos, plus some upgrades and spare parts for my buggy and on-roader, which is all I have in the garage now. It's good actually, just having the two cars, as I have them set up exactly as I want them and have enough RC funds to race them and keep them in good condition.
Just hanging out for a few more months until spring comes and then I will be right into it [8D]

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