tybull

these really durable? top speed? built good or bad? may get one bt dont know about company I never heered of. Herd of OFNA Traxxas Kyosho Losi and others not redcat so help need i do plese help

trpastor

Hey Tybull and others... you won't BELIEVE the beating my 1/8th buggy took today. So yes I would say they are durable. I ran flipped cartwheeled and the topper..

At one point I was driving it down the sidewalk tried to straighten out and over compenstated RIGHT into a TREE!! It bouced up in the air (I think it used it a little like a ramp) about 4.5 feet while flipping in what seemed like slow motion, and landed on it's shell. Not ONE thing broken on it (oh... the atenna pipe. I"ve gone through 4 of those already).

So yes, I would say they are VERY durable. The trucks seem to have some issues, but I have yet to break and part and I am rough as HELL with this thing.

I had my doubts when I bought one, but this car has been awsome. Easy to tune. FAST (faster than my ofna 9.5 which I am going to actually sell in place of this car!) tough as **** for me anyway.

I had to replace my throttle servo but was going to anyway. The stock steering servo was actually VERY responsive but I switched out and now am kind of regretting. I have a JR radio system I switched to, but again, kind of liked the feel of the other better. But I may need to play with the JR a bit more.

FOr $260 (what I paid for mine with FM radio) ridiculous deal

testy

Ok...before I can fix that problem , I have a new problem...Now it just will not start..

When I pull the pull starter, you can hear the engine kick over (not just turn but the about to start sound), but as soon as the cord retracts..the engine stops.. My hands have blisters all over them!!! This must of happened 50 times. Pull the cord..engine sounds like it is about to run...cord retracts and I can feel a little jump in the cord when its near full retraction and the engine dies. I would be lost without this forum, so on that note...HELP!!

tashspop

My Feedback: (1)

trpastor, where did you find that price?? i'm only seeing them for around $330

testy, try adjusting your throtle trim on the remote to give a little gas while trying to start. i've had to do that sometimes with other cars my first start of the day. once it starts and warms a little, then adjust it back to normal. just be careful you don't flood the engine.

Buggygovroom

Which is EXACTLY how i got the spare parts from my friends Kyosho 7.5!!!

trpastor

Hi guys

I found mine on ebay and used a "submit best offer" and they accepted. I think I got a hell of a deal. This car is the best one I've owned to date.

Testy -
A few things... firstly - the learning curve is steep on these... meaning at first it can be frustrating but once a few things are engraved to memory it's a breeze.

The starter plug is fully charged, right?

I think tashpops advice was right on, with making sure it's warm. My cars are 2-3 times easier to start if they have been kept at room temp than if left in the garage. Was that maybe the case?

Also - what he means is to adjust the trim so it is temporarily giving it more gas. You can tell which way to spin it by looking at the carb opneing. It should open it more (BUT never run your car with the filter off, put it on before you start). Did you adjust the idle back down? It may have been adjusted ok (and it was just that the radio gear was off letting it go to a reved posistion by vibration) and now you are making it a little tough to start.

Also - you may (may) have flooded it. What you can do is take the glow plug out turn it upside down and pull the cord a few times to spill the gas out)

Also - you did prime it? Bring fuel to the engine?

I know this is a lot and some is contradictory (flooding vs no fuel) but without seeing it's tough to say.

Let us know how it's going

t2

Ok, I'm new here but I've been doing rc for about 25 years. My first was a Tamiya Sandscorcher and my last new purchase was a TMaxx, but in between those I have owned 2 Kyosho 1/8 scale cars. My first an Inferno DX and the second a Landmax that I still have. I could not resist an 1/8 scale buggy for about $250 so I have bought a Torpeda Pro. I believe the Torpeda pro is the same as the hurricane XP. It should arrive next week and it will be very interesting to compare it to the older Kyosho. At first I wanted to convert the Landmax to a buggy but after investigating the options I determined that it would be cheaper to buy the Himoto. Any way while I was looking into the Himoto I found some stuff on the Infinity .27 that might be interesting, and helpful if true. I came across an Infinity .27 on E-bay and the seller claimed that it was the same engine as the Team Orion Wasp .28, the same block, and the same cylinder/piston combo. If this is true a rebuild can be bought for $36.99 on ebay at the John Hobby World E-bay store. I have yet to find a replacement rod. Also I believe that the Orion Wasp 28 is a turbo head, I don't know that the Infinity is. If not, and the Orion head fits the infinity, than an easy upgrade to a turbo head is about $36. Also found a complete infinity .27 W/pullstart for $95 + $14S/H new at (http://www.etamiya.com/shop/product_...oducts_id=7112). If anybody knows for sure that the infinity .27 is in fact the same as the Orion Wasp .28 please chime in. Thanks

trpastor

Hey T2... GREAT to have you. I am VERY eager to hear your comparisions between the Kyosho and the Himoto. You are right about the Hurricane and Torpeda being the same (.21 and .27 vs have different tags)

Please keep us updated.

I have been waiting for info such as what you said about the engine's, and I do not doubt it. The reason being I have thought for a long time that they more than likely did not start building their own engine's but probably had them relabeled. It does look very similar.

I would be willing to try it when mine breaks down as I like to run hard I'll keep you guys updated if I do that but that may be months down the road before I have to.

Looking online side by side I would say these are almost exactly the same. The carb is flipped but that can be done to accomadate left or right side mounting, right?

Buggygovroom

I found the problem to my odd running engine troubles. No air leak, no to rich setting (i knew my tuning skills didnt mysteriously take a u turn after tuning and tuning and tuning today i finally broke down and faced the fact that something in the motor was coming apart. I broke down the motor and found this

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/2520432264.jpg&s=x4

Piston like the little nitro sharks came and took a bite out of it.

after i finally got these new street tires and wheels!!!

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/2520483735.jpg&s=x4

I think im gonna pass on rebuilding it and just get a more well known quality motor... From looking at the vertex, which i could not find a manual for.. the piston seems to be Nickel unlike its abc counterpart. I'll cyas next week if i get another motor


later guys

THIS SUCKS ***OMG3quartsofgashelp.

trpastor

BGV - those rims are sharp. Are those redcat upgrades or from the kyosho you got?

Do you think the engine got killed from running hard? Any ideas on it?

Buggygovroom

The rims and tires are from nitrohouse.com. I ordered em for an OFNA buggy. Rims were 15 something for a set of 4 and the tires were 15 for a pair. They also have belted and unbelted versions of slicks for 1/8 buggies too, and a good selection of offroad tires as well. The bumper, shocks and front sway bar are from the kyosho.

As far as the piston thing goes, i am kinda clueless as to what happened or when. I never had any real good bashing runs or wide open throttle around parking lots yet. I always kept it more on the rich side rather than lean and did a bunch of chasing peoples cars driving down my street as they drove past, turning around and coming back to jump off the sidewalk and bounce around the grass a bit and let the tires spin in the neighbors garden. Nothing dramatic at all. I think maybe i just got a fluke since I hear a lot of good about these cars and how well they hold up, but i haven't run it to hard at all yet. I was just breaking into my 3rd or 4th quart of gas since i got the car... got frustrated and checked the motor out and found the broken piston.

Last time it ran well was about a week ago. I went out on my first tank of gas for the day, did some circles around speedbumps and chased the sidestreet traffic a bit ran out of gas, went in got some food, filled it back up and went out on the 2nd tank is when the stalling began. No irregular behavior at all during the first tank and then nothing but trouble the next.

From then on is when i started posting here. I had some days where i could run the motor at mid rpm till it warmed up and couldnt go past half throttle... I went to a shop and they said it seems like theres a clog so i checked over every possible air leak and clog spot and found nothing. Even breaking apart the motor tonight everything looked like it was still in great shape... The sleeve was still in top condition, connecting rod, clutch, crank and bearings all looked great.. I almost buttoned it back up and said, "damn, I guess i forgot how to tune" but i took the piston out anyway and there it was. I guess id try another one but I dont feel like shelling out 160 some bucks for a motor from redcat. But i'll see what next week brings.

trpastor

I don't blame you. If I had it happen like that I probably wouldn't buy another (I'll let you know if I experience anything like that) But I would check out hte wasp. Looks like a direct fit. I hear good things about OS though if you can find one that fits.

testy

dammmnn...won't start again...this time I feel its the glow plug because the plug is a golden brown type colour. Arn't fully functioning glow plugs supposed to be silver, or at least I think it was when I started? To rephrase....is silver good.....brown bad? If it is, what type should I ask for when I hit my local hobby store. Thanks

trpastor

Hey Testy

I'm gonna post your experience when you got it running if that's ok. He sent me this in a PM in regards to "did you get it started?"

"Hey there...YES, whoooohoooo!!!! Just got in from about 4 hours in the sun...I think I've got sun stroke!"

Just don't want people to see only the struggles. As far as the glow plug, yes I would get another. You can pull it out and put it on the starter and ahve it glow but sometimes it still isn't good enough to get the engine going easily. Just bring in your old one and they will be able to match it up for you. I don't think I've changed mine yet I would bet any long stem probably medium heat.

It sounds like what you are going through now is just learning the subtle balance between being able to get it going and not.

There are many factors at heart
(like you just said)
Glow plug
is it too cold (the engine) (you'd be surprised how much easier a 80' vs 40' engine will start)
is it primed?
Is it flooded
Is the idle too low?
Is the lsn (and or HSN) too rich
is it too lean
is the radio gear on
is there an air leak in the tank that is making it hard for fuel to continuosly flow to the engine
is your glow starter out of charge?
can you give it a little "boost" with the throttle trim to help start it, and then turn it down when it's going
is your air filter clean?

Can anyone else think of any others.

But yes I would start with the glow plug and before you try again run down this list. They may be mostly things you know and understand but occasionally I'll forget one on the list until I'm pulling and pulling on the pull start only to realize I made a rookie oversight.

Good luck and let us know about your good runs too

Buggygovroom

Take your plug out and test it with the ignitor. The filament should glow orange/yellow. If its a dull orange your igniter needs a charge.. if your plug sits there and dont light but after about 5-8 seconds the casing gets hot your charger is ok and your plug just took a poop.

If you had your car running and took the plug out, Silver filament slightly grey is fine, if its real wet with gas your to rich. just a bit of gas and a grey filament usually means optimal running, and burnt broken filament obviously is way to lean.

I would expect the outer edge of the plug to start to turn a honey gold color if its been in for a while as the rest of the engine starts to discolor. Dont throw a rod or break a piston!

trpastor

Good sound advice BGV - but I have had one that glowed what seemed fine but when I changed it seemed to have less trouble starting it. Sometimes the visual can be wrong I've found.

trpastor

Hey Guys

I need a little help. I set up a ramp that was about 3ft high (off a saw horse) and about a 40d. grade. It was jumping beautifully, but I had limited room and a couple times it landed and ran straight into a brick wall. then a few other times I nose dove hard. Not sure what did it but the steering isn't quite right. I can't see anything broken UNLESS the servo saver is NOT supposed to seperate when you turn. I didn't notice if it did that originally or not.

Also - when I turn to the right the suspension arm wants to raise up but the left side doesn't do that. It drives towards the right, and when I turn right it doesn't snap back like it does on the left side. SO obviously I've broken soemthing on the right side but nothing obvious (arms hub etc)

Thanks for any help

PS - it was doing AWSOME on the jumps. Does anyone know how I can get from my hi8 digital video camera to video I can post online. I'd love to show what this thing can do. I think it will dispell a lot of myths about these himoto's not being good. I can speak for the trucks but this buggy rocks.

RedcatRacing

Hey Trpastor,

There are a lot of ways to get the video online Best Buy sells all kinds of simple things to move the file but if you want to, feel free to send me the video directly and I will get it converted and send you back your tape.

Let me know if you want to do that.

Darin

trpastor

I would prefer to be able to do it personally since I may start migrating some home movies too. I'll check at best buy. Can anyone recommend a good but affordable set up (I guess software and cables is what I will need?)

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

If you have xp, use windows movie maker. I have a sony camcorder and used the plug that came with it, and it plugs in the usb. Just make sure you get the driver and all will be fine. I called sony and he gave me the place to download it and it works great with xp movie maker.

testy

ok..me again

It seems now I can get her started, sometimes easier than others, but never the less, I get her started. My problem now is up until half way on the throttle she flys and makes me proud...once I get past half way to full throttle she loses most of her power and stutters - every now and again even stalling at full throttle. Any ideas?

Hey Trpastor

For basic conversion and editing of you home vids, Windows Movie Maker will probably be sufficient. If you find it is not cutting the mustard..I suggest Sonic Foundry's Video Vegas as the most econimical and stable of most Video editors out there. This can really do more than you will end up needing but the functions are there should you need them at an affordable price in comparison to everything else out there. I have used programs which cost thousands of dollars and still don't hold a candle to Video Vegas. Hope this helps

trpastor

Hey Testy

the LSN adjusts your throttle from about 0 to half. Your HSN adjusts from about 1/2 to full. They have to be at least ok for it to operate fairly normal in either throttle amount though.

Sounds to me like the HSN (the main one) is a little rich. It could be lean but the way you describe it I'm betting too rich. Turn it in all the way (so it hits resistance but don't "tighten" hard). Count as you go. If you are over 3 turns it was too rich. If you are under 2 you were too lean. It should probably be right around 2 1/2 to 3turns for this engine I have found.

Having trouble starting it is normal. You begin to learn JUST the right amount of fuel to prime so it's not too much too little. How to pull the pull start to get the most out of your turns. Keeping it warm when you want to start it is easiest. And also - when you get good you can hold the throttle with one hand and use the pistolcontroller to hold the car down a bit and pull with the other (to give it some throttle) or with the FM one at least, you can turn the throttle trim up a bit.

So to get the video to the computer do I need to buy a certain cord? I have an Svideo output from my camcord. I bought this pinnacle software and can't even ge tthe &*%&*% loaded. It keeps crashing. *$&$ SH*&. Sorry to vent but so far it's been a total headache

testy

The main reason for crashing with any type of AV software is memory. If you only have say 256mb of memory and the software requires say 200mb just to open/start up, its not going to take long before it will let you know - al La crashes. It wont be your CPU because you would still be able to use the software just it would slow down/stutter continually. How much memory do you have installed and how much does it say on the box that Pinnacle requires? Generally whatever software developers state....DOUBLE IT!! When they state requirements..they mean minimum requirements.

Does your camcord only have Svideo out or is there say a Firewire out (small rectangular jack) I prefer to keep everything digital which is why I use Firewire but if you don't have that option you will need either a video card with Svideo in, or RCA ins (will need S-video to RCA connector). A much cheaper option is some type of external analogue junction box. While I have never used one..I know they do exist with some even having hardware compression on board (think it is MPEG 2 to go straight to DVD). If you do go for one of these try to get one with hardware compression/encoding, this way you can burn straight to DVD without additional encoding. Geez I hope this makes sense.


OK..back to RC. You say there is a LSN and HSN but can only find the needle valve. I've got the vertex .21 so maybe this one needle compensates for both? Don't know only guessing! The manual says for normal operating it should be one and a half unscrews from the fully screwed in position. The factory positions were about 5 unscrewed turns from the fully screwed in position! I've already played around a bit but still backs off after half way throttle. Could it be anything else?

trpastor

hey Testy

I got it going - it crashed during install so I had to install it 3 more times before I got a clean install. It's working now but when I create a video windows is blocking it because of "DEP" Data execution prevention. I guess it thinks the video is harmful for some reason but I created it. Anyway - if it's not one thing

As far as the car it definitly has 2 adjustments and the idle. The low speed adjustment on this motor is on the flange side. Keep the side screw tightened in, but the flange side of the engine is what you adjust. The HSN is the main valve needle that sticks straight up. The idle is under the air filter. (see image)

The low speed I"ve foudn to be good around 1 1/2 to 1 3/4. The high speed should NOT be 1 1/2. Just from that I would say you are too lean (and not rich like I previously suspected. I read what you said as more of a blubbery stalling but if it just cuts out it is lean). It should be closer to 3 or less turns. THe book may be talking about the lsn.

Trust me on this. If you adjust this you will see it works fine.
It will take a bit of tinkering to get it right were it needs to be but those should be good starting points.

Sorry about the photo. I already had an overhead and just cropped it rather than shoot again

testy

The low speed needle is refered to as Idle mixture screw in the manual...can this be right or am I looking at the wrong thing?

So just confirming...LSN should be 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 unscrewed (anti-clockwise) turns from fully tightened in position and HSN should be 3 or less unscrewed (anti-clockwise) turns from fully tightened in position.

Thanks again