giddyuperic

I forgot to say they have a sweet starter box too[sm=thumbup.gif]

giddyuperic

Hey if you are having A problem turning the motor over with the roto start? Then preheat it with A hair dryer work's every time [sm=thumbup.gif]

mozzzy_2000

Hey giggyup I must agree that himotoracing & exportpro is a great place but I have found they have better prices on their Ebay than on their websites. Worth checking out their ebay sites I reckon. The hairdryer trick is handy if its particularly cold. I have found the hairdryer to be most usefull though when first running in an engine & especially when a new piston/sleeve is very tough to crank over without first preheating it. But when in the field or at the local track, having a hairdryer is impractibe. You'll find as the engine runs in more & more, you really wont need a hairdyer for starting anymore. It can also help starting sometimes if you use the throttle trim to open the carby ever so slightly. Too much & you'll flood the engine of course but done just enough will help to kick the engine over.
I still reckon a cheaply priced starter box on Himoto racing's Ebay store is great value. You can sometimes jag one in auction for less than about US$40. About the same as a rotostart but far more reliable in my opinion.
cheers

m2loud

Thanks for the tuning tips Mozz. It sounds like you,ve been here before. I started out in some taller grass when I got it repaired which made it appear to bog down. I since ran it on some dirt/pinestraw and reacted like I wanted. I had made the LSN a little richer and seems to be an improvement. I will cont. to experiment to try and find the sweet spot and I will get a temp gauge soon. I also have been using the throttle trim ever so slightly to make starting easier, just thought that might be a band-aid for a differnt prob. I hope to post some pics/movied soon.

mozzzy_2000

No worries dude! I have basically taken the past 9 months off and all I've done in that time is play with my nitros, probably several times a week for 9 months! Started off as a rank amateur but as you will find out, its a steep but very quick learning curve. Once it all sinks in, you'll never forget it. Like riding a bike really. But yeah I have learnt a lot in the last year thats for sure. I am starting to know more about the subject than some hobby shops! But then on the otherhand, there is still much much more to learn.
yeah grass will be a lot slower than dirt or road. Actually mine is too fast for the road. It just goes too fast & flips very easily, so I have been sticking to grass lately. Good soft landings for practising jumps for instance. In regards to the throttle trim, if there is something genuinely wrong with the engine causing to not start, then yes using the trim would be a band-aid fix. If however the engine is too lean, it wont get enough fuel to start & if its too rich, then it has too much fuel to start. But in normal cases when the engine is tuned, it does sometimes helps to get a cold motor going. One thing I like about starter boxes is that you can still hold the controller in one hand & blip the throttle to help it start. Thats quite tricky to do with a starter cord but I do beleive it can be done. I think?? I think trpastor once said he would do that? don;t quote me though...
In regards to the needles settings, just take your time. Only go in 1/12th or 1/8th turn increments whether you are richening or leaning. Go slow cause the settings can take a few minutes to work in. If you go too far on the needles you will miss the sweet spot & you really will have trouble. Sometimes takes me a whole tank of fuel before its dialled in properly, although thats a worse case scenario. Patience is the key! Sounds like you're having a heap a fun though hey! i certianly would like to see more videos on here hey. I wanna do one but I just gotta get the equipment first and then work out how to transfer it to a video file. I did a wicked roll yesterday. Car was go flat tack & I got speed wobbles the front wheels dig in and the car just flipped, A over T, about 3Ft into the air, rolled about 6 times & landed on its wheels & kept going. Pretty standard stuff I suppose but geez it looked funny & quite spectacular! And thats on grass too! which I reckon is at least about 25% slower than the road. Gotta have a drag with someone else I reckon to really guage the speed of this thing though.
Anyway enjoy...
Matt

mozzzy_2000

oh yeah with the LSN & HSN. The HSN or main needle is your main adjustment. That should be dialled in first. Once that is tuned, then you adjust the LSN. You can tell if the LSN is dialled in by one of 2 methods I know. You may know too.
1) Run the car around for a few minutes at operating temp. Bring it in. Now give it a few decent revs & listen to the idle. If the idle drops to a lower note, it is rich. If the idle increases, then its too rich. Adjust the LSN accordingly
2) Run the car upto operating temp. Bring it in. Pinch the fuel line about an inch away from the inlet nipple and listen to how the engine quits. Now if the LSN is dialled in correctly, the idle should increase slightly & konk out after 5-7secs. If its doesn't rise & quits within a second or two, then its too lean. If it revs up dramatically before finally dying then its too rich.
Now quite often its hard to determine which needle to adjust. In most cases it will be the main needle because the main needle even though its a high speed needle, will still affect the LSN setting. In other words, richening or leaning the HSN will have an overall effect on both the HSN & LSN.
But ideally, from a standstill, if you floor it and it bogs down or stalls immediately, then its most likely the LSN. If it shoots off only too bog down or stall after a few seconds, its the HSN most likley. The LSN affects the idle & immediate takeoff & thats it. The HSN needle comes into effect a few seconds later.
Listening to your motor is a main key. You can virtually tune from the engine note if your hearing is good enough. A rich sound will sound blubbery and bog down and bunny hop along. A lean sound will splutter & most likely fart before dying. But I myself are still learning the subtle differences between the 2 & I can say it can be very tough indeed to determine whether its lean or rich.

Am I dribbling on too much???

fahaka

I found the parts you guys were mentioning.

The Tower Hobbies website had the

Wand: LXERF8
Back Plate: LXERG0 (I didn't see the back plate only on the Himoto site)
and this cool Fuel Filter some one had. LXEYG3

I'm still planing on using my cordless drill so hopefully this all works out. I plan on using the settings dial on the front of the drill to make sure that I do not over torque anything.

giddyuperic

Hey on the himoto site if you go to the part's and there is A page where you order part's and you can ask them for it I know they have it I bought two from them. But what ever you do I hope all goes well. good luck let us know???

m2loud

Matt,
I welcome the advice. Its good stuff and had used these tech. to originally dial it in. I think I just didnt go far enough. I'm going to cont. to slowly tweek it. That wreck sounded wicked, I'm a little gun shy since my front end collision which has made me hesitant to get in that situation right now. I may haed to my ptiful local track to get a little better terrain, my house has taller grass and medium size rocks in dirt areas that aren't too freindly at high speed. Our local track is owned by the city and is in horrible condition, it is rutted and needs to be sprayed for weeds. It is clay though and a simple layout with a decent jump. I have been considering fixing the track up ( would take about three hours ) but their weird around here and fear prosecutuion since I don't own it. I have yet too see another serious basher there, just a kid with a elec. 1/16 or something. I nearly cut him in half coming around the corner!! Anyways, enjoy your time off.

mozzzy_2000

Cheers! Yeah you'll soon find out how dam tough these buggys are hey. Only broken 2 parts in 6 Months of almost daily use! not bad ey? And I know what you mean when you say you're hesitant because the same thing happened to me way back in the begining. But you soon learn how to spin these things on a "dime" after a while. Your local dodgy sounding track sounds pretty good to me. Better than not having one at all I reckon. We don;t have many tracks here so any tracks a good track regardless. But yeah be careful around rocks hey. They can jam up in the spur gear & strip the gears if you're not careful. Hasn;t happened to me yet but it does happen. In regards to your clay track, be careful there too because hard packed clay is very tough going on these buggys. You may need stiffer shock oil for instance for softer landings. But boy is ot fun driving these on dirt/clay! I still find it very diffcult because they slide around all over the place unlike driving it grass where its quite grippy. Of course once on clay you need to use the right sort of tyres. The stock ones on the redcat/himoto are general purpose tyres. I think proline crimefighters are the tyre of choice on clay. Don't quote me on that though! haha.

In regards to your rotostart parts fahaka(say his name loudly & quickly and watch people's reaction!! hehe) I'm with giddyuperic on how good the himoto racing site is. Actually I am refering to their Ebay store. They have hundreds of parts & if it's not listed they will still be able to get it for you. Very fast service these guys. Highly recommended! And yeah go easy on the drill start!. I still see 2nd hand rotostart units on Ebay going almost daily. You could pick yourself a bargain!

Let us know how the drill goes as I am curious to know how effective they are.

Cheers
Matt

mozzzy_2000

Hey guys this one is for any Aussie guys out there reading this and anyone else interested for that matter.

I have here the following for sale: Prices in Aus$

A new & never used set of 4 MT Proline Road Rage tyres (#1082) on 4 Imex Romulin chrome coloured rims. They are however not glued!
Tyres measure 3.30" x 5.50"; Rims are 17mm hexes. Rims have a few little paint nicks from mounting the tyre to the rims. Very minor though. Great looking wheels.
These should fit the T/Maxx, Savage, Revo & Jato and quite possibly other MTs as well but check your hex size first. May require adapters. These are amonsgt the best road tyres for MTs available. Perfect for running in that new engine around the local carpark!
$100 ono - Huge saving on RRP!!

Brand new in box, never mounted Hyper 21 8 port Pro(race version) with p/starter. Comes with header & separate booster attachment that can be installed if desired for more mid end grunt. Very fast. A real top end screamer. Rated at 2.7HP & 38000RPM! (Standard hyper 21 8 Port- 2.5Hp)
$250 ono

Brand new in box & never mounted Team Infinity Samurai 521. With 5 ports and rated at 2.5Hp 41500RPM, this is another top end screamer!
$150 ono

Perth pickup welcome! Grab yourself a bargain & make me an offer!
cheers
Matt

mozzzy_2000

Sorry me yet again! For all AUSTRALIAN Redcat/Bazooka & himoto owners I have found an Australian supplier of parts!!! yay!!!! Sorry been a long time coming!

Check it out at : http://www.auctioncityaustralia.com....le-buggy-.html

mozzzy_2000

Gee this made me laugh! I know its way off Nitro but crikey this is funny!

Troops battling Afghan marijuana forests
Friday Oct 13 09:01 AEST
Canadian troops fighting Taliban militants in Afghanistan have stumbled across an unexpected and potent enemy - almost impenetrable forests of three metre high marijuana plants.

General Rick Hillier, chief of the Canadian defense staff, said on Thursday that Taliban fighters were using the forests as cover. In response, the crew of at least one armoured car had camouflaged their vehicle with marijuana.

"The challenge is that marijuana plants absorb energy, heat very readily. It's very difficult to penetrate with thermal devices ... and as a result you really have to be careful that the Taliban don't dodge in and out of those marijuana forests," he said in a speech in Ottawa.

"We tried burning them with white phosphorous - it didn't work. We tried burning them with diesel - it didn't work. The plants are so full of water right now ... that we simply couldn't burn them," he said.




Even successful incineration had its drawbacks.

"A couple of brown plants on the edges of some of those (forests) did catch on fire. But a section of soldiers that was downwind from that had some ill effects and decided that was probably not the right course of action," Hillier said dryly.

mozzzy_2000

hmmm...do my eyes deceive me? Was my last post not only edited but completely deleted? Thats bizarre. It was only an amusing news story after all. Now who says that the US is a free place? So much for free speach.

m2loud

Anyways, I went to the track today. In a nutshaell, 10 laps or so, a minor low speed collision with a PVC pipe and now my center Diff. is slipping. As you might guess I'm a little frustrated and will prob tear it down tomorrow. The amount I'm spending in parts and shipping is starting to get close to the price of the buggy at this rate. I dont mind fixing it or the money really, its the fact I rarely can have an uninhibited run w/o damge. Sorry to be "that guy" who has constant problems, but its not cause of my driving this time. It was actually a lot of fun up to this point. I was going take a pic of track but I left. Oh yeah, on a positive note the pro line tires I put on were incredible on the clay. Corners were very controllable compared to stock tires and grip on the small straights was great. It never attempted to pitch or roll unless you caught a rut in a tight corner. I originally thought the aggressive knobby tread was to aggressive which might be true for grass. Talk to you in 7-9 business days

mozzzy_2000

Hey don;t get down too much about breaks & stuff. You'll find that as you get better and better with control, you'll definately crash less or not at all. I haven;t crashed into anything for about 6 months. The first 2 times I took it out I slammed into wooden posts down the park so you are not alone on that one!
As you get to know the buggy more & more you'll also work out which parts to hop-up & strengthen. The alloy hopups you can get will greatly reduce damage in most cases & you'll save more money in the long run. You'll also discover that these 1/8 buggys are basically the scaled down equilavent of a F1 or indi car. Seriously when you extrapolate the scale speed these buggys are doing, the equivalent speed is something in the order of 350MPH! So basically they are operating at the threshold of performance and so things are going to break. I barely have a day when I don;t at least loose a screw or two. And if you race, things will break guaranteed.

knobbly tyres are usually the best for dirt/clay. My best grass tyres are the proline mugshots which have large lugs but they are spaced apart so you still get slide. They still dig in a grip but not too so that it flips up. Some of my dirt tyres will just the flip the buggy and are not appropriate on grass. It goes without saying that running it on grass for the first few times makes it much easier to control than on dirt.

With your centre diff, you say its slipping? Stupid question but in what way? Could you explain with more detail? I've never done any damage to my centre diff. Infact the main spur gear looks hardly blemished after all this time. You may have just stripped the main spur gear, but I'm guessing that perhaps the diff cup flexed in the crash & you have probablly stripped the spider gears within the diff. If thats what you've done its not as bad as it sounds. You can get diff gear replacements for it so thats no problem. The other option is too completely upgrade the centre diff & get a high quality Spider 8 diff or a torsen diff. These are virtually industructable I am told. But of course this is an expensive course of action. These diffs though will last far longer than the stock diffs.

Anyway are you confident enough to dismantle the diff? Again, its not as hard as it sounds. Let us know if you need assistance on that. Of course check the other parts of the drive train like the shafts, F/R diffs too.

Let us know how you go.
cheers
Matt

m2loud

Shouldnt be a prob w/ the diff. I've already replaced a spur gear, but thats not it this time. I think its that internal spider gear. If you attempt to roll the buggy on the ground, it crunches and is not smooth,locking up almost. At this time the center diff is trying to turn, if you spin the front or rear wheels independntly off the ground, it will not affect the center diff and is smooth. This really was not a bad crash at all but I understand the scale example you gave and it makes sense. This car is very fast for small tracks and is difficult to open up w/o an incident. I need to work on my throttle control prob. more than anything else. Oh yeah, TPRASTOR sent me tutorial on the spur gear which involved taking apart the center diff. which will come in handy once again.

m2loud

Just so you dont think I gave up, I ordered a new air filter kit and a magneitc work bench from Himoto on Ebay!!

mozzzy_2000

a magnetic work bench? hmmm I'll have to sus that one out! What heppened to your airfilter? The best one I found was the motorsaver 3 stage for 1/8 MT. It sucks in soo much more air that I had to seriously richen the egine almost a full turn! which is a lot to say the least!
Your crunchy diff sounds very much like munched spider gears. You can actually get a diff gear replacement kit from himoto, but its almost the same as buying a new one so the choice is yours. I actually have bought a few new cuz they were the same price. Now I have many diffs which is handy because you can have different diff oils in them giving you more scope for more track conditions.

I don;t know if I mentioned it but one of the things I suggest with these buggys is to replace the shock oil to a stiffer weight and also clean the diffs out & replace with proper silicone diff oil. The stock diffs come with grease as you've already discovered. Whilst there is nothing wrong with diff grease, it does not offer the same function as the silicone diff oils. I have 5000Wt on the front diff, 7000 in the centre and 3000 in the rear diff. This totally changed the way the car handles dramatcially giving you a lot more control & less wheel spin. You'll find too if you experiment with the diffs, you'll find the control to be far superior to greased diffs.
My shocks I changed to 35Wt front & rear. Stock shock oil is only around 15Wt and does not offer the best dampening.

By the way, the more accidents you have in the beginning will ensure you wont have them as you get better. Like you said, these cars require great control and I myself am still constantly learning the ittle nuances of the way the car handles. You'll learn to use the brakes effectively and the way you use them to turn into corners. Just like the real cars.

Enjoy!

mozzzy_2000

I was talking to some guys here over the weekend that have those massive MT's like the Losi LST, Savage etc and they reckon they virtually blow diffs on almost a daily basis. It occurs because most stock diffs have plastic bodies and they can flex causing the gears inside to strip . Its not until you get the higher quality diffs like Ofna's torsen diff & the spider 8 diff, which are both made out of tough alloy that you can take heaps of abuse. These MT guys say they have to shim their diffs to reduce movement. That is they put in shims on each of the 4 spider gears & they put them behind the 2 larger bevel gears to stop any chance of movement. But I have noticed in the diffs that I have opened up, they appear to be shimmed anyway, so I'm not sure if it will help. But its worth considering in any case.

m2loud

Will those stronger diffs you mentiones fit in the buggy?

m2loud

I was just looking at the Himoto site and didnt see any complete center diffs . Do you have a part number or a link to somewhere to find it. I need to get some of these links in my comp. BTW, I got the workbench off ebay for 11.99. It has a magnetic portion to hold screws and small parts.

mozzzy_2000

Hey. yeah i have a magnetic wrist band, which of course you can stick your screws on. I am forever loosing screws! Not to mention those pesky dam e-clips!!! Ping! gone......

Those diffs I mentioned will fit. You'll find that many "generic" parts are interchangeable. I know that the Hyper 7 & Hyper 8 both use the exact same front,centre and rear diffs as the Redcat/himoto, along with the Kyosho inferno series. The redcat/himoto has the very same F/R gear boxes & centre diff/brake. So basically any diff that can fit those buggys will fit yours. Now of course its an expensive replacement but it maybe worth it, if you plan to continue to practise on a track. They're more of a race going item, so for bashing its not entirely necessary since they are considerably more expensive.

There are also considerable differences with the way these 3 types of diffs work. The torsen diff, the most expensive type of diff, is a traction control diff and dramatically reduces wheel spin. When I wheels starts to loose traction, the diff applys the torque of that spinning wheel back thorugh the other wheels still touching the ground. I love the way it handles. With a standard diff, if a wheel looses its traction, the torque is lost & the diff unloads that wheel. All drive in that wheel is lost.
With a spider 8 diff, they are like the standard diffs but have 8 internal gears instead of 6. This apparantly also helps with better traction although they do not work like the torsen. It is however encased in an alloy diff cup, like the torsen, so they are very tough indeed.

In regards to the spare diff parts, I'll dig something up for you but you probably wont need an entire new one though especially if you have replaced the spur gear recently. Its most likely the spider gears only.

PS. RC Universe you should be ashammed at your censorship!! Its just plain crazy. I can;t beleive even that my post of complaint was deleted!! Thats pretty rude.. I am so gald that a live in a "TRUE" free society such as Australia. I feel quite sorry for the residents of the US that they have to be subjected but such censorship. That just does not happen here in Australia full stop!!

giddyuperic

Hey just go to himotoracing.com and go from there they have the center diff[:-] And please say that eric sent you I do not recive any money or parts for this I just know the owner he is A friend thank's and good luck.

mozzzy_2000

Hey Giddyup! Is Himotoracing.com and Exportpro.biz basically the same companies?

M2, I don;t think they do have complete diffs. Not according to my manual. Looks like they have the parts to rebuild them. If you need a new diff cup its 81016, If you need just the planet/spider gears, its 81042. And possibly the internal diff washers 81216 & possibly 81215(these i think are the shock washers?) as well as the diff axles 81214.
There the only parts I think you'll need. You don't need the spur gear and I'd be supprised if you needed the mid diff cups too.

Ok here's the links to those parts on their Ebay store, which is better than the webstore if you want my opinion.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIMOTO-KYOSHO...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIMOTO-KYOSHO...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIMOTO-KYOSHO...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIMOTO-KYOSHO...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIMOTO-KYOSHO...QQcmdZViewItem

As far as I can tell, these are the parts you'll need to rebuild your diffs. You may find though that you wont need all those parts anyway. Might be worth rebuilding the diffs or perhaps getting them for spares because you will find under normal use, you usually have to rebuild them at some stage, like once a year or so. Its also worth inspecting the condition of the gears from time to time because as soon as there is destortion in the teeth of any of the gears, the diff will have a limited lifespan. That goes for the bevel/pinion gears on both the front & rear diff. They are the gears that you attach the driveshafts to and they in turn drive the main diff gear inside the gear box. If these are deformed, you will end up munching the main/spur gear and its better to replace when the bevels before the rest of the diff get stuffed.
I'd also highly recommend changing the stock grease to a quality silicone diff oil. You'll find you'll have less wheel spin & it will be easier to control with proper diff oil.