Jas the Ace

Thanks for the feedback grizz, and yes life is soooooo much better when you dont have to worry about those darn blisters from pull starts, and it also great to hear you noticed the power difference to. That is simply due to the fact you have no excessive drag or extra load on the engine. It's amazing how something so simple can make such a huge difference in power, and be so user friendly too.
Please keep us up to date with your experiences and progress cos we all benifit from others. We are all learners.





If you didn't break it, you didn't take it.

zaintlouis

Nice going Acee dudee!! that's my man.

You know i have this crazy idea about this vertex engine hehehe, i already remove my pullstart assy right? now i was thinking of putting a little fan at the back attach to the shaft, the fan blade will have a radius shorter than the coilbox if i could make this possible maybe i could stabilize my engine temperature with the cost of a small load.

the question now is should i go for it or not?

i also think that the flywheel should be reinvented like incorporating a small fan blade no matter how small but it would help already compared to none. is this crazy or what?

zaintlouis

Nice going Acee dudee!! that's my man.

You know i have this crazy idea about this vertex engine hehehe, i already remove my pullstart assy right? now i was thinking of putting a little fan at the back attach to the shaft, the fan blade will have a radius shorter than the coilbox if i could make this possible maybe i could stabilize my engine temperature with the cost of a small load.

the question now is should i go for it or not?

i also think that the flywheel should be reinvented like incorporating a small fan blade no matter how small but it would help already compared to none. is this crazy or what? well nothing serious about this stuff just wondering

icecube0045

does anyone know wat .32 motors will fit on the hurricane??

mozzzy_2000

Hey guys. Grizz I agree with what Jas has said. Well done Jas, couldn;t have said it better myself. Grizz as its been pointed out you make very small adjustments. i wasn't kidding when I said small adjustments. Great to hear you're getting it sussed out now. Its a sharp learning curve but once it all becomes apparant its pretty much down hill from then on. Another thing worth noting is that engines need to be tuned everytime you run them. A lot of people just set the needles and forget about it but thats actually not doing the engine much good. You can also find that in a short space of time, the natural weather conditions can change and all of a sudden put your engine way out of tune. I have found this seems to happen late in the day as it cools down. Also its worth keeping an eye on temps but it goes without saying that should never tune by temp as a general rule. Use it for a guide only.
A lot of these instances of engines flaming out and not restarting are infact vapourlock issuess. As an engine naturally leans itself out the hotter it gets, richen the HSN back an 1/8Th of a turn and this will be the most ideal spot of the HSN. You should theorectically be able to run several continuous tanks without it overheating. You dont necessarily have to let the engine cool between tanks.

Jas I can see what you are getting at with your theory in regards to ballooning tyres and I'm not saying you are wrong, but with buggy tyres the ballooning is really quite severe and the tyres end up being thin disks. Sure that may increase the profile of the tyre but the surface area to the ground is greatly diminished. Sorta like having knives as wheels. All its gonna do is slice through the sand and offer little traction. Thats the issue you face with these buggys. I suppose this is more of an issue with racers than bashers. For a bit of fun have someone hold your buggy off its wheels. Give it a nice big rev and take a photo of the profile of the wheels spinning. You will be amazed at how thin the tyres go hey.

Hey Louis man where do you come up with these crazy ideas?? LOL what do they put in the water over there huh? Anyway sounds like a cracking idea but to be honest I think itwill end up with bits of fan being strewn through the internals of the engine!! Cool idea. Sorta bit like the hyper 21 with the turbofan. Thats almost the same thing as what you want to do but you want a cooling fan whereas the one in the hyper is designed to atomize the fuel before it gets cobusted. You gotta take video of it running cuz I wanna here it explode!! HHAHA just kidding!!....well actually I would love to see an engine explode, just not one of mine!! LOL

In regards to parts compatibility the hurricane/torpeda/bazooka is almost identical to the Kyosho Inferno MP7.5 Basically the main difference is the front suspension geometry where both cars are similar but not quite. A few of the parts like the arms & steering hubs etc are not interchangable so you'll need genuine redcat parts if you ever had to replace these particular parts. But at basically appart from the front, the rest of the inferno mp7.5 and the hurricane are absolutely identical. There are a lot of parts that are sommon to most buggys as well. The entire drive train of the hurricane is the same as the inferno. Diffs & gear boxes for instance are identical. So there are more similarities and many identical parts between the two buggys.

In regards to engines you should be able to fit any engine of any brand from size .21 to .32. The issues I have seen so far have been cases where the rotostart backplates of some engines seem to sometimes stick out and this sometimes has required you to lift the engine up on the mounts with spacers to accomodate the rotostart. But apart from that you should be able to clot a .32 in there...in all its big block fury!! Man I was running a collari .30 for awhile and it's like having a mini V8!! LOL a lot of grunt..

zaintlouis

not me either!! atomize fuel like in the diesel engine? i don't get it.

i got the mamba now as usual i'll break it in by semi-heat cycle method.

Jas the Ace

Semi heat cycle method?.......please explain.......

zaintlouis

break it in on a stand with a fan, no REVS (to smoothen or gradual grinding of the tapered topend or slow process of widening the hole) then i do the heat cycle method. well, i think i heard enough about breaking it in on a stand without load. so we stop from here. this is just my method, my engine to risk and so be it. don't worry jas i'll be fine.

Jas the Ace

Haha dont worry zaint I wont pick on ya, it was just the term "semi heat" i was trying to recall.
Either way have fun with the new engine, thats all that counts.

zaintlouis

Hey Ace, c'mon have a video to share with us. you don't need to be a nitro basher so you could show some. i can't hardly wait for that motocross tracks to get finish. i'll jump my buggy on theirs. i think i must prepare for some extra knuckle & suspension arms or shocks! :-)

Jas the Ace

Yeah well a mate did make a dvd of the things we get up to, but I just need to work out how to edit things off that and then work out the upload stuff aswell. I think computers give me a virus cos I get pretty sick of them very quickly when they dont do what I ask them to do. lol. Thats why I crash buggies, cos I know I can get them to work again.
Any suggestions on easy to use software (free) that would help me with the vids?
And a motor-x track eh...sounds awesome, imagine the air you could get off some of those jumps. And the heartbreaking thud on the ground when things go wrong lol. Enjoy.

grizz1

Hey guys, I think I have discovered the reason for my buggies recent tuning problems. After my last post it started running hot again, no matter how much I richened it up. After several hours of head scratching and researching I put my troubles down to a definite air leak somewhere. I was running the remaining fuel out of the tank late this afternoon in preparation for taking the motor out and trying to find any air leaks with soapy water, when I noticed a little fuel and oil mixture bubbling out from around the glow plug !! I cleaned up around the glow plug area, re started the motor and trickled some after run oil around the glow plug. Sure enough, even when nipped up tight there bubbles forming in the oil around the glow plug. I snugged the plug up as tight as I dared and this sealed things up. Ran buggy for 1/4 tank with no problems. No major temp fluctuations, sitting happily around 215 deg despite some hard running. Normally buggy would run at normal temps for a few minutes, then start to spiral to 300+ with no amount of richening making any difference - Scary stuff !!
When I inspected the copper washer it had quite a groove worn in it. I still loosen the glow plug off a quater turn when starting buggy, as motor is still pretty new and hard to flick over with pull start. Guess washer just got out of shape with constant loosening and tightening. New plug and washer being purchased on Monday for sure.
These buggies sure keep you busy tinkering, which is half the fun for me. Quite a feeling of satisfaction when everything is running sweet and you are bashing hard

Jas the Ace

Well done grizz, from what I saw in mozz's video the other day, a loose glow plug can really warm things up a bit. So I am glad you picked it up pretty early. I am surprised to hear you didn't have any spare glow plugs though. Geez I always have a handful of plugs in my kit just in case, especially with a fresh engine. It is always the case with any form of motor sport that the cheapest part will always fail, and in your case it seems to be a simple little copper washer. That is the cheapest failure I have heard of, I don't think anyone can better that. Well done mate.

zaintlouis

Ace, my prayers have been answered! check this site. i'm not ashamed to have those crazy ideas afterall

http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products...ProdID=SWK9190

griz thanks for the info, you're a hero!

mozzzy_2000

Hey Louis I hate to say it but I still will, lol, but with that new engine I reckon you are mad for not runing it in with a more "accepted" method hey. I hope you were think aloud when you suggested running in on a stand right?? Man I cannot stress how bad this would be for your engine hey. But like you say, its your engine, but yeah I'd hate to see it being problematic and not last long thats for sure.
Great to see you are back in action grizz. Yeah it goes without saying that EVERYTHING on these nitros need to fastened down hard hey. But you live 'n learn I guess! lol
That plug in the video had actually popped out! And that was all the smoke pouring out. I didnt see it happen but apparantly it just went "POP!" lol. pretty funny.
Vented flywheel hey? Thats a good idea. Would have thought they'd be a dime a dozen but thats the first I have seen of those.

zaintlouis

Thanks for the warning mozz, but my P5 and were broken in by heat cycle. and now i'm just counting the days for its death anniversary hehe.
I think my Mamba would last longer than my P5. I just knew it. We will see how long my vspec & mamba last. still remains to be seen.
matt i'm inviting you to join in neo-buggy.net people are cool around there. they are not like the others.

There's a thread about "The Greatest Buggy" somrthing like that, i didn't see any heated argument. just pay a visit. same goes to all of us here

grizz1

Hi everyone. Progress report on the "Grizzmobile".
Went to lhs today for some glow plugs. Was talking to the resident "nitro guru" there and he suggested I change plugs to the same one I use in my GS .25 MT motor (a GS Racing #4 plug - medium hot for 5 - 30% nitro). He reckons for the nitro percentage I am using (15%), this would be a much better plug than the ones supplied with the buggy. He was so right. Big difference in ease of starting, idling and overall performance. To restart the motor once it has been running now takes one simple pull of the starter cord.
Of course I get this info and new plug after I have just ordered a seperate starter box for my buggy because it was such a pig to start !!!. Never mind the starter box will be cool, and I might be able to find a backplate so I can remove the pull start and one way bearing for some more POWER.
I know different motors like to run at different temps, and the .21 Vertex in my Bazooka seems to like runing at about 240. This seems a little high (?) but it performs really well with good smoke trail right up to WOT and what I think is max power. I am trying not to tune to any temperature in particular, but just check the temp every so often to make sure I am not cooking the motor, and this seems to be the temp that it performs best at.
Gave buggy the thrashing from hell this afternoon. We had some light drizzly rain, so I got out on the road at the end of my quite little cul-de-sac and had great fun on the greasy roadway. Ran 3 tanks of full on power drifts, power turns, dougnuts etc. Sorry Louis - no video for you. Can't afford one with these two nitro cars to run !!!
I do most of my running at this stage on grass, hard clay and pavement (road and skateboard bowl), and the original general purpose tyres are now true slicks. While I was at the lhs today I picked up a set of Ming Yang low profile on road / rally type tyres with harder foam inserts and hard compound rubber. Check out those chrome rims in the photos.
I think the buggy looks pretty mean with those wider low profiles on. Thanks for all your help lately guys, really appreciate it. Will keep you informed of any more mods to the grizzmobile as we go along. [8D]

hayabusajim

I am looking to get into racing and am new to nitro buggy. Can anyone tell me about the Redcat Racing Hurricane XP Pro . It looks to be a good starter, but I wanted to ask you all before I jumped in. I don't want to spend a mint, but want to compete. There is a good review of the Hurricane XP here on RCU and the pro should be better with all the aluminum ad ons. I'm looking for a little pro and con action here.

Jas the Ace

Well done grizz. When I was reading your last post I was keen to throw something in, but as I read on I found that I didnt have to. I am referring to the part about tuning and temp. I will always say to people that are tuning there engine to a certain temp with the aid of a temp gun, that the best thing they can do is, throw the temp gun/guage in the bin and all their problems will be solved. As you mentioned and I am glad you did, they should be used as a basic aid in saying "its time to let the engine cool down for a while now", and they should never be used as a tuning device, as different engines (as you said), climate changes, fuels, plugs, etc will all vary an engines temperature. Temp guns can be of benifit to those who race these things for a living, but for 99% of us, no.
Your buggy looks very clean and unbroken, was that before you took it out?
I have been researching glow plugs, suspension, and (sorry zaint) engine run in, lately, and mate those plugs should do you just fine. Basically a hot or medium hot plug is ideal for our babies, but I strongly recommend 20% nitro asap, but no more than 25%. If you are using US fuels you can basically go up to another 5% on top of that.
There will always be differences of opinions, but in the end it all boils down to floggin' the crap out of these things cos it's great fun and these buggies love the punishment.

grizz1

Cheers Jas.
Photos were after bashing, but I took the liberty of cleaning off all the road grime and exhaust oil before I snapped the pics with the new skins on. Driving is improving really quickly, so no damage this time out !
You are 100% correct with the temp gun info. I read elsewere that it is a real no-no to tune to a set temperature. I am amazed at how much ambient temperature changes effect the tune on these motors. I have been running a lot in the late afternoon and early evening, and as the temperature drops quickly around this time of day now, I find I am constantly tweaking for peak performance.

hayabusajim - I am also fairly new to nitro buggies, and purchased an HSP Bazooka II, which is identical to the Redcat Hurricane XP (except for motor type). I couldn't be happier with my buggy. Other than a few teething problems, mostly down to my inexperiance, it has been a blast. Soild as and easy to work on. If you scroll back through the threads on this forum you will find nothing but good comments and happy owners. I have not raced mine yet, but intend to do so in the near future as time permits. There are a couple of upgrades you could look at if you plan to race straight away. The AM radio gear being number one and maybe the servo's, although I still have the factory servo's in mine and they seem to perform ok, but might be a little weak for serious racing. With my limited knowledge that's about the only advice I can safely give you.

Jas the Ace

I am trying to find the postings on the xp and pro comparisons many many pages ago. But from my weak memory I think it went something like,......the pro is over priced for what it is, and you can modify the xp to a better quality for less the price. And dont be fooled by all the bling alloy hop ups either. Alloys of certain types can be a lot heavier, and can also weaken other main parts of your buggy. I recommend to stick with the xp and go from there. Alloys in the right places are good, but it must be a decent alloy. Don't go for the cheap heavy stuff. I think if you know an aircraft engineer, you could be able to work out what is best. But if not, hang out at any of the clubs and watch what breaks and with what setups they are using. There are well experienced people that post in here but it takes a while for them to respond, so we will keep you informed as much as we can.
I am not putting the xp pro down at all, it is a good buggy. But as you mentioned, we will see what the others have to say regarding the pros and cons.
XP for me.





If you didn't break it, you didn't take it.

mike649

why cant i get any power to the servos?no hum or nothing,bought a new reciever,and that didnt work. was working when i put it aside till new servo came.fried the other one.this thing pissin me off.bad switch?maybe. any more ideas greatly appreciated.pretty sure its not gettin juice.

Jas the Ace

So Mike sorry to hear you still having troubles, have you tried all those things metioned previously regarding this issue? Is it just the steering or both?
Yes it is possibly a faulty switch or a wire that is broken. Do you have access to a multi-meter or an ohm meter to check the continuity of the wires and switch?

zaintlouis

i suspect his center gear has eaten some of his wires.

mike649

found the problem ,batteries were deader than a door nail,brand new to,whats the proper way to center servo read somewhere but can't find it.can i use any servo arm the redcat 1 wont fit my new servo[:@] remember check those new batteries