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  1. #251
    mozzzy_2000's Avatar
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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Cheers! well I'm getting more confused trying to work out which screw you are talking about hey. I'm still not that familiar with engine parts so please bear with me & correct me if I am wrong. When you look straight at the engine with the carby at the front; the LSN is on the left side where the throttle linkage is? The idle adjustment is that pesky one at the bottom front of the carby under the air filter? The HSN is that brass one on top which has the nipple into the carby? and then there is a screw on the right side, which I beleive is a mid speed needle that should almost always be closed? Would that be correct?
    Now you refer to the needles in a way I don't understand unfortunately.
    As above, from after the run-in settings I started to lean out the HSN from that setting & got a very good response to the speed & top end. I found yesterday that it was spluttering badly upon directly squeezing the trigger. Like it was bogging down, almost stallling & "spitting along" bunny hopping before getting speed & taking off. I thought it might be rich on the HSN so I leaned it out further but this just made it hotter. I turned it back down. I then leaned out the LSN which didn't seem to do much other turn up the heat. I then started turning the LSN down & it got to the point where it was running at a reasnable temp but failing to idle. I thought the idle adjustment might need bumping up a bit? Haven't touched the idle or the one on the right which I beleive should not be touched. The other thing thats different is that until yesterday I was using a different plug. Could a new plug throw out the tuning like that? I have also noticed that the LSN(the one on the throttle) seems very loose & could that be unwinding?
    Cheers for the shock info. I still feel lame cuz I still don't know how you get that screw out. I take the shock off, which leaves the metal bracket connected with a screw but how does that screw come out? Does it just pull out or screw out or what? Mine is firmly wedged & I can't figure if it just pulls out or you screw the bracket off or what & I don't want to use force cuz I know I'll just break it hey. Please help?
    Cheers

  2. #252
    mozzzy_2000's Avatar
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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Hi trpastor. This forum is very unreliable hey. Keeps on saying my session's timed out & I lose the message. Anyway I'll keep it short. I'm still having a nighmare with this thing hey. Took it out this morning & it was still performing in the same spluttery way. Leaning the HSN(brass one) made it hotter, top end was a bit better & it smoothed out the chugging as you take off. But only slightly smoother. Leaning it the other way slow it down & it still spluttered barely able to get any speed going.
    So I leaned out the LSN(throttle side) & it too made it hotter but made very little difference to the spluttering. Richening it up made it run very poorly to the point it wouldn;t really idle, spluttering again.
    At that point I ran out of fuel & packed up.
    Went back out this arvo with your suggestions of a 2 1/4 turns for each the HSN & LSN. Now I can't even get it started! I've got blisters now on my other hand & I'm sure about to snap the pull cord again. I'm really at a loss to explain whats going on. Not sure whether its actually faulty or whether I simply can't tune the engine?
    I have never been able to get it to run as smoothly as you've got yours in that vid.
    Sorry to burden you but any help or ideas? Its either that or I get the LHS to look it again for me.
    Anyway cheers
    Matt

  3. #253
    Buggygovroom's Avatar
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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Check your glow plug mozzy, and your igniter... if you burnt the element to where its bent and or broken and grey you were to lean.. if you have metal chips in the plug your in bad shape and that means something inside is coming apart .

  4. #254

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Mozzzy, you've got it right about the locations of the needles. The best way I know of to set the LSN is to pinch the fuel line and see what happens. Drive the car a bit, enough to make sure it is warm and not loaded up with fuel, then immediately pinch the fuel line going to the engine. The Idle should gradually increase after about 2 seconds and then start slowing down until the engine quits. If the engine quits right away, or displays a very abrupt increase in rpm followed by a rapid stall, then it is to lean (LSN too far in). If the car runs for more than five seconds you are fat(rich) on the LSN. When I do this, I pinch the line about an inch from the carb. Always set your LSN after your your HSN is at least roughed in. Changing fuel or plugs, especially to a hotter or cooler plug, can affect your settings. Changing exhaust pipes and or air filters can affect your settings. Cleaning an air filter will sometimes do it, in particular if it was really dirty. Adjusting for air temp is also a huge factor. My normal routine is to warm the car up. Make a quick assessment of the HSN, enough to make sure she is not loaded up with fuel, and then pinch the fuel line. 9 times out of ten the LSN is fine but once in a while requires tweakage. Try settings your LSN .5mm screwed in from flush with its collar, regaurdless of how many turns that is. Hope this helps. Also You could have an air leak, check all of your lines.

  5. #255

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Ok - Mozzy -

    Scratch what you are thinking now and start fresh.

    Here's the rundown of what I've seen - it sounded like you had it going really well one day and then it was hesitating on the first half of acceleration. This is the LSN. It sounds like, however, the hsn was still a little off also - because when you adjusted and got the LSN right the car was getting too hot

    NOW.... IMPORTANT... the HSN should not be 2 1/4 turns out. ONLY the LSN. There is no mid speed needle. Here is a link to the page where I spoke of the locations of the valves and with photos

    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37..._5/key_/tm.htm

    I will speak in left and right as you are looking at the carb. So I know some people are using the right side to adjust the LSN, but I have found it to be rather unsecured and subject to vibration moreso than the little screw on the left flange side. They BOTH do the same thing. I have the right side (BIG screw) screwed IN all the way just till it's a tightened. Don't overtighten any of these screws. I have the left side backed out to 2 1/4. The HSN is backed out 3 1/4 from in. THe idle see photos.

    THere is no way you would get it started with the HSN at 2 1/4 - sorry about the blisters.

    This is all very common especially if you don't have a friend or LHS to show you in person what to do and get a rough idea.

    I would also recommend replacing your glow plug at this point unless you take it out and it's totally fine. If you still have trouble starting (once you've adjusted to starting points) then replace it anyway. Sometimes you can't really tell visually (sometimes)

    On the shock - I don't remember for sure - but I am pretty sure that metal piece (see photo) should just pull out of there. Try turning the screw more to see if it backs out first, but if it doesn't do anything pull. I think they get pretty wedged. They take a lot of impact

    SO start over on the needles. Idle see photo. HSN 3 1/4- 3 1/2. LSN 2 - 2 1/2. When you tighten in don't OVER tighten

    There's a fast learning curve. Once you get past it you'll wonder why you had so much trouble.

    Also - before you act on frustration, just put it aside and think on what was done. It will give you a better understanding and will give others the opportunity to help in the meantime.

    You'll get er screamin

  6. #256

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Here's the photo

    PS- I'm in the habit of hitting select all and CTRL C in any forum before I post a long post
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  7. #257

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    I think you were better off then you think, the HSN is for top end and should be adjusted first. It doesnt mater if it humps , jumps or whatever at take off,,,,, you are adjusting the HSN ( high speed needle ) ( for high speeds )... If it runs fast on top end ( the fast as it will go )... Thats what you want to accomplish!!!! Now all that said and done, leave it alone dont touch it again.... Go to the LSN ( for lower speeds like take off ) and adjust it, no more then 1/8 of a turn at any time... Keep doing this until you get it not to spuder. ( the my have to go in or out to accomplish this ) and the car is smoother from start to top end.. Now for fine tuning you can make small adjustments or probably the best would be the pinch test like several others had allready mentioned... Be patiant, it might take all day... Try to let the motor cool down between adjustments. Good luck

  8. #258

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Today was my first real bashing session. I had to run it in the grass because everything else is mud. It was about 40 degrees and the engine was a little cold blooded at first but after while started running good. They are tough enough as I pounded it to the ground a number of times without breakage. I know running in the grass is a lot of work for a buggy but it was cool out and the buggy was tearing it up pretty good so I was letting it hangout. I had a steady plume of smoke and it was running good, The top of the head was not overly hot to the touch but I broke out the temp-gun and ouch!!! 289 degrees at the plug. Did I say OUCH!! I guess did. I am not sure what I did wrong, in the past if my cars were lean enough to get that hot they would hesitate on long straights or flame out completely. This thing sounded good and always that plume of smoke. Perhaps it was not broken-in enough for the hard work of grass. Anyway it's definitely broken-in now, if not broken. It looks like there might be an O.S. RG in my near future. I have decided to invest in a Venom Smart Temperature Fail Safe, I have been looking at these with some curiosity for a while and now I have decided. I'll keep you posted on the fail safe and how well my engine survived this stress test.


    I just had a thought, It was cool out so I left in the O.S. A3 plug that I used to break it in. This is a hot plug and works good for break-in because it idles well at lower temps and does not foul easily at rich settings, it is also econominal so I use them for break-in and in my smaller T-Maxx engine. I wonder if the plug was so hot because it's a hot plug and that maybe, just maybe, the rest of the motor didn't get that hot. Like I said the top of the head was not very hot at all. Do you guys think this is just wishful thinking on my part?

  9. #259
    mozzzy_2000's Avatar
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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    earth to trpastor? where you gone? How come you're not answering my private emails?
    matt

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    "T2".....it might be wishful thinking...but then again you might get lucky...lol

    When you check temps check more than just the top of the plug...check the side where the head meets the block...that will give a more accurate reading and something for comparison to the plug....I check several different areas.
    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  11. #261

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Looky what I did today!

    I put a Sportwerks/Dynamite Mach .26 engine in my Hurricane XP...it turned out to be a LOT more work than I originally thought...don't try this at home kids...OY!...LOL!...they said this motor would fit MOST 1/8th buggies....but guess what?...not OURS!!...not without several mods anyways..

    I figured out right away I needed different motor mounts because the backer plate and recoil on this motor is quite a bit bigger than the one on the stock motor...in other words the motor needed to sit HIGHER off the chassis...well...I did some measuring and comparisons with my truck and figured out Volcano motor mounts would give me the clearance I needed...but then of course the holes were just a tad bit off...and I mean a tad...only like about 3mm or less from motor to motor mount and a bit more from motor mount to chassis...just enough to make things a royal pain and spend a lot of time slotting holes and grinding on the chassis where the motor mounts sit...I even ended up re-tapping the bottom motor mount holes for bigger screws...where I had to mod the chasis is a bit sloppy but I was in a hurry because I still needed to get some work done out in the body shop on REAL cars (LOL!) so I will clean that up and make it look "factory" one of these days...I also had to notch out the recoil housing on the inboard side due to the fact that the rear driveshaft cup on the tranny was about a milimeter away from rubbing on the housing...

    This operation took about 3-3 1/2 hours to get everything to line up just right..gears to mesh properly and clear everything....VERY TIGHT FIT!

    The time frame involved ALSO included running out to get different screws and a few other business related "interuptions"...

    Even though it turned out to be a bigger pain than expected...I think it will be WELL WORTH IT!....I started break-in tonight and I can tell this thing is going to ROCK...it's sounds a lot meaner than the factory motor and seems to be a bit pepier too...I haven't been able to run it hard yet as I am not quite done with break-in....I am doing the heat cycle method of break-in rather than the old school method and it seems to be working like they said it would....every time I start it back up for another run it gets better and better and this thing has been easy to start and a BREEZE to tune and keep running!

    The only thing that sucks is I won't be able to use a bump box starter because the motor sits about a 1/2 inch or so higher than the factory one...but the nice thing is there is a backer plate available to use a roto start....I'll be checking into one of those real soon!

    Hopefully I will be able to finish break-in tomorrow afternoon or better yet Friday as it is suppose to be pushing 60 degrees..


    I can't wait to open this beast up and see what she does!
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    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  12. #262

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    HEY EVERYONE MY NAME IS JERRY DOWNHOUR I AM A REDCAT RACING DEALER. I SELL REDCAT RACING RC CARS ON THE INTERNET. I SELL ALL THE MODELS FROM THE 1/10TH TO THE 1/8TH AT THE LOWEST PRICES ON THE INTERNET. I ALSO SELL ALL PARTS FOR ALL MODELS AT A VERY AFFORDABLE PRICES/ SHIPPING ON ALL PARTS ORDERS IS ONLY $5.00 PER ORDER NOT PER PART. I HAVE RECENTLY LOWERED PRICES ON ALL MODELS SO PLEASE GO CHECK THEM OUT. IF YOU NEED ANY PARTS PLEASE E MAIL ME AT jerrysrccars@earthlink.net AND I WILL E-MAIL YOU BACK TO LET YOU KNOW THE PRICE OF THE PART.

    SO HERE IS THE URL TO FIND THE LOWEST PRICES ON REDCAT RACING NITRO CARS TRUCKS BUGGIES AND PARTS

    http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rczero21/id1.html

    IF YOU CAN NOT CLICK ON THE LINK PLEASE COPY AND PASTE

    REMEMBER THESE ARE THE LOWEST PRICES ON REDCAT NITRO RC CARS PERIOD
    ...

  13. #263

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    DUDE!...while we welcome everybody aboard...especially dealers...you have made your point MANY times in several threads...

    You are reaching the point of SPAMMING!

    Might I suggest just putting your dealer info as your signature line like all the other dealers do?
    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  14. #264

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Looks Good scott.. What an ugly body. Wheres the hot looking new one you got lol.
    Cen truggy, Bigfoot 1/5th, Cen buggy, Mg16, Redcat Earthquake, Redcat Drifter

  15. #265

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Thanks Dennis...

    Yeah...I'm chomping at the bit to finish break-in so I can open her up...but...duty calls first...having priorities and responsibilities really sucks ya know?...LOL!

    As for the body?....yeah I KNOW...can't wait to get that body!...I don't understand what the heck is taking so long?...I mean geeeez....the dang order was processed yesterday...don't know WHY I haven't gotten it yet?...SHEESH!!.....LOL!
    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  16. #266

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Ok, I took a good look at it last night after work and I don't think the high temps hurt it. I must have caught it soon enough or maybe my elcheapo temp gun is wacko. The compression still feels the same and there is no dis-coloration anywhere on the motor or pipe. I took the head off and it all still looks like new. While I was messing around with it I found a leaky shock so I decided to service both rears and what I found is that there was more air than oil in there. The one that wasn't leaking was so pumped up with air that the cap popped off when I unscrewed it. They were both filled with silicone oil foam. If you have not serviced your shocks I recommend at least taking a look inside them to make sure they are full. The internals for the shocks were almost identical to the shocks on my kyosho, I am sure you could swap just about every part.

  17. #267

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Got TEETH!!??

    LOL!!

    I'm thinkin maybe a little too much power for the stock gear??
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    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  18. #268

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Hey Xeller8.. the Kyosho 46t is a direct fit metal gear and I think it may be a little tougher than the stock gear. Seems like something else is wrong there though. Is that just from starting it or was that running hard and jumping?

    Was your mesh set up right? That seems like it was pretty loose to have done all that.


  19. #269

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    LOL!!...hell it's hard to say for sure Tim.

    I was runnin her around and on the gas a bit when it happened...ALMOST done with break-in...only had about 2 more heat cycles to go...so I wasn't running REAL hard...but did do a little rippin and spun a few cookies in the dirt and the dirt area I was messing around in actually is like "pea" gravel and smaller...so...without the body on I spose it's entirely possible I caught a few little rocks just right too....*shrugs*

    When I put that motor in it looked like I had things lined up pretty well but I was thinkin the mesh may have been just a bit looser than it should be...but then again...you don't want the gears to mesh REAL tight either...it's kind of a crapshoot without exact specs to go by...the motor is in a fixed position right now and I was planning on doing some more work so there is some adjustment there...

    But I CAN tell you one thing for sure...this motor is VICIOUS!...I can already tell it'll SMOKE the Infinity and actually may be too much for the car to fully utilize all the power except maybe for drag racing...lol!

    Tis all in fun but this kinda bums me out though...it's suppose to hit 60 tomorrow then turn back to winter saturday and I was hoping to finish break-in today so I could fine tune and let er rip tomorrow...oh well...C'est La Vie!

    Thanks for the info on the Kyosho gear Tim...I'll keep that in mind but I REALLY want to find out about getting a stronger and truly race rated main gear and clutch bell....any ideas anybody??

    Heres a better pic of the main gear....19 teeth left out of 46.....dangit...I think I could have done BETTER!....LOL!
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    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  20. #270

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    This is the perfect time for a race Scott..... Oh wait, yours isn't moving...lmao jk.
    I also agree that something is alittle out of whack.
    Cen truggy, Bigfoot 1/5th, Cen buggy, Mg16, Redcat Earthquake, Redcat Drifter

  21. #271

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Xeller

    I did some searching and I'm not seeing anything that will be better than the 46t except perhaps this guy http://www.lightninghobby.com/kyosho...67742_prd1.htm (it is steel)

    this is the 46t with holes for lightening. I think some of Ofna's will fit too but none said 'raicng' gear.


    THis looks like it would fit too
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCVR5&P=7

    Let us know if you find an alternate

  22. #272

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Hey Everyone... I have a question for you. If I found some carbon fiber shock towers and plates would anyone else be interested in them as well?
    Thanks

  23. #273

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    LOL @ Dennis...yeah...well..it's O.K...you can admit that you are just a bit envious of all the gear munching power I now possess...HEH!



    Thanks for helping me with the research Tim...I appreciate it!

    After doing a lot of research myself last night I think I found the gear and clutch bell that I may try...unless it turns out that my LHS (Hobbytown) has something similar or better when I go see them either tonight or tomorrow afternoon...it really sucks that they are 45 miles away...UGH!

    Gear. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SWK9076

    Clutch bell. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SWK9114

    They are not solid titanium but are at least coated with titanium nitride so that will at LEAST help with overall wear...


    And yes I will also agree with you guys that something may not have been set quite right...before I took the center differential out and added the pic to my previous post I was able to get a better look at how things are lined up and it does appear that maybe the engine is "cocked" a little off square with the center differential...maybe about 2mm and I may not have had the mesh set quite tight enough either...I wish there was some kind of spec for the gear mesh...

    I really should have taken everything off the top of the diff. when I set the motor and gotten everything out of the way so I had a clear view of the gear mesh from all angles...but...this is the price I pay for trying to shortcut and being in a hurry to get the thing running!!

    I can reassure you that the mesh WILL BE ADJUSTABLE before this thing gets completely reassembled!
    1/8 Redcat Hurricane XP Buggy/.27 motor (4.43cc)/tuned exhaust
    1/10 Redcat Volcano STX truck/.18 motor (3.0cc)/tuned exhaust

  24. #274

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Hey Xeller

    That looks like a beaut. Lets us know how they work out.

    As far as setting the mesh, in general on 1/8 buggies its recommended to take a piece of paper, put it between the mesh, tighten down, and spin the paper out. When your done it should have slight play when you hold the gear still and rock the bell back and forth.

    Definitly needs to be straight though. That could be the issue right there. I've never seen um get eaten quite like that

    I might have to try that gear if I get another anytime soon.. good find


  25. #275

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    RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

    Those titanium nitride goodies are the whip and that stuff is tuff. We use drills coated with it and they cut through steel like butter. The price seems good, we pay almost $15 for one 1/4" drill bit.

    That is surely those most utterly destroyed spur I have ever seen!

    I got my Venom smart temp fail safe today.

    [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJTW3&P=0[/link]

    Along with a hump-back 6 volt reciever pack and it all fits in the radio box nice and neat. The smart temp is very easy to setup, 5 minutes to program after its installed and your good to go. The smart temp is a battery voltage, signal loss and engine temp monitor all in one. If you want it to It will limit throttle input if the engine exceeds your programmed set point as well as all the other stuff a traditional fail safe and/or temp monitor will do. Very cool. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the battery box and glueing a lexon window in it just so I see the little screen without opening the box.



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