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"OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

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Old 08-17-2006, 06:17 AM
  #851  
mozzzy_2000
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

hey cheers. Yeah I already tried that but I can't budge it. Its the tiny set screw where the shocks connect to the lower arm. Tried the dremmel but no go. My next try would be to carefully drill it out but I am reluctant to do that. But I've got another set of arms & shocks so I'm still running but now I can;t get the original redcat shocks off to repair them. I'll put more thought into it but it looking good hey..
Old 08-17-2006, 06:20 AM
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

This new infinity motor looks pretty awesome!
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Team-Infinity...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 08-17-2006, 08:44 AM
  #853  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

can you use a tap? I don't know for sure which screw you are speaking of, but you should be able to use a tapping bit. It basically screws in when you are going counterclockwise, and digs into the metal. So while it's digging into said screw it's also spinning it the way it needs to come out

Tim
Old 08-17-2006, 08:46 AM
  #854  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

PS, I might be thinking of the wrong name of the item, but your local hardware store will have it

Tim
Old 08-17-2006, 12:33 PM
  #855  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hi mozz, all you said about the engine is right, i got this answer from the other thread regarding the difference in engine why one has the advantage than the others. it's almost the same as yours.

What makes one .21 different to another.... let's assume we use a known mix of fuel to simplify the theory.
The main things that defines how much and where in the rpm range an engine produces power is the port timing and port size i.e for how long a port is open and how much air/fuel can be burnt and excavated. The second main thing is the geometry of the tuned pipe. As you know the tuned pipe is a resonator and assists in filling the cylinder with fresh fuel and getting rid of the exhaust gases. An engine is basically an air pump. The more air that can flow through it the more power you can make. A short pipe generates a resosance at higher rpms, a longer pipe have a resonance at lower rpm. The resonance assists in filling/emptying the cylinder. An engine with an exhaust port with a long duration (it opens earlier and stays open longer) will generate more power at a higher rpm than an engine with an exhaust port with a shorter duration because the port with a longer duration can flow more air in the high rpm range.
It's a simplified explanation but that's pretty much the bottom line. Now add compression ratio, shape of combustion chamber, glow plugs and weight of internal parts. It's no secret, it's thermodynamics.
i think we owe you a lot mozz. i wish there's something i could do to help you regarding that bolt.
Old 08-17-2006, 10:50 PM
  #856  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hey guys. Yeah Tim that was pretty much what I was thinking of attempting but since the hole is so small I am a bit nervous doing it. Haven't got drill press which would help solve the problem. For your reference Tim, the set screws I am talking about are in the himoto/redcat. They are the tiny 1mm set screw that holds the pin, that holds the lower eyelet of the shock absorber to the rear lower arm. On my Kyosho, the pin is actually a screw pin & does not need a set screw. However since both the arms of the himoto/redcat & the MP7.5 are virtually identical, the kyosho also has the same holes to use set screws if you wanted to. Did that make sense? If you have a look at your himoto I'm sure you'll see what I am talking about. Actually I have 3 set screws that have busted. The 2 that hold those rear shocks and also 1 of the ride height set screws. They don;t seem to be that strong on the himoto unfortunately as they have all been either stripped or in one case, the actual screw spit would you believe. Anyway I need to remove one the shocks as its busted internally in some way. I've flipped it several times recently so I'm not supprised. Anyway I'm sure I'll sort it out. I've got spares so the buggy is still up & running which is cool but my spares are running low now.

Cheers Louis for the compliments. I'd have to tip my hat to Tim aka trpastor for setting me off in the right direction in the first place. Geez the headaches I must have given you Tim?! Anyway you should check the the very first posts & you'll see what I mean but as Tim said to me when i first started, its a fast learning curve once you understand the basics. That was or is so very true. But having said that I have had the luxury of a extended holiday most of this year, so I've spent a great deal of time tinkering in nitro(as if you hadn't guessed already). So I've picked up heaps of info and probably much faster than the average person, who can only use their nitros once a week, can.

In regards to that other thread & mine; I've never read that one. Very interesting. I have read loads of threads though and a lot of what I have picked up has been from those but what I wrote was completely off the cuff, so to speak. You can see whoever wrote that thread above clearly has a clearer understandng & better way of explaining it than I do. Although I am glad you showed me that because sometmes I think to myself; Am I writing sh*t?? haha anyway I think I have the basics worked out.

Here's another question. What plugs do you guys like using & for what % nitro? I am curious because this RB WS7 is extremely picky when it comes to glow plugs hey. They don;t nowhere near as long as they do in my Infinity 27. I'm using 20% so most people recommend a colder plug than the stock standard OS#8. I used R5s, blown in maybe 2 tanks; a A5s, blown in less than a tank and so far the best I have had is actually the OS#8 which lasts about 5+tanks. So its a bit of a pain & lets face it rather expensive everytime you pop a plug. I don't know if its normal for these race engines but the #8 in the infinity 27 was lasting me weeks or months. One thing I have notcied is that the O'donnell, Mccoy & Rossi plugs all seem to be a slightly longer thread and I am wondering whether the problem lies in either the length or temperature of the plug. I suppose its trial and error but a dam pricey trial none the less

Anyway dudes I'll catch ya later
Old 08-18-2006, 02:43 AM
  #857  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

hey all,
i have finaly got my xp and it is amazing, its so dam fast. for some reason i have the .28 engine in it, thats what it came with. but as i sed its so fast. and its also built very well, the only problem i have had so far is when i hit a curb sideways and one of the batteries fell out and the car drove down the road on its own, so i had to chase it. I need a fail safe for defenate. I need to tune it a bit but other than that it starts very quickly.
From Alex
Old 08-18-2006, 04:38 AM
  #858  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

You should have read this thread from the start you could have prevented the crash, i think i mentioned something about strapping your batteries with double rubber band (incase one rubber band fails there would still be one holding the batteries), fail safe would not save you either, servos will need power inorder for the horns to be on the desired safe positions ( did i describe it correctly?). i broke my knuckle arms, badly abbraise front rt arms, when those batteries came off when it hit a bump.

Mozz, everything we hear from you is a treasure of knowledge just keep up the goodwork. You're my man! hey where is Buggy? haven't seen him around this time.


I have more to add about engines here it is. i hope this will help others too who would like to know more about engines.


port flow (which is a function of the area, number of ports, shape, and other restrictions/enhancements) is the majoy contributor to power. also contributing are flame propagation, how clean the charge is, heat transfer characteristics, bore/stroke, the TUNED PIPE, how well fuel is atomized from the carb, compression ratio, port timing, etc....

things that help high rpm engines:
large bore/short stroke
lightweight pistons
large diameter carbs
lots of port timing with overlap
high compression with fast burn
better cooling abilities to deal with the increased heat output

things that help torque motors:
smaller bore/long stroke
heavier flywheel
more prolonged burns
shorter duration timing and low overlap
smaller carb restrictor for better fuel atomization
decreased cooling so as to not lose too much heat

short list of things, there are many more
this information is from UF DUB i think he's a man goodness and knowledge like mozz.
Old 08-18-2006, 11:13 AM
  #859  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)


ORIGINAL: mozzzy_2000

I'd have to tip my hat to Tim aka trpastor for setting me off in the right direction in the first place. Geez the headaches I must have given you Tim?! Anyway you should check the the very first posts & you'll see what I mean but as Tim said to me when i first started, its a fast learning curve once you understand the basics. That was or is so very true. But having said that I have had the luxury of a extended holiday most of this year, so I've spent a great deal of time tinkering in nitro(as if you hadn't guessed already). So I've picked up heaps of info and probably much faster than the average person, who can only use their nitros once a week, can.
Hey Mozz-
You've certainly superceded me in knowledge of these things at this point. I really just like bashing. As long as I can run it it's cool with me. You're really getting more into honing your knowledge and running these things at their prime. yes, it is a far stretch... I remember when you first had tuning issues I think you felt I was exaggerating about how good these cars do run - but it was just the beginner learning curve after all huh? I'm glad I could help get a couple people into it.

As far as plugs, i've used several and I don't feel that big of a difference in performance, but I've only run the .27 and my hyper .21. I do know that how long the plug reaches down (how close it is the the cylinder head) does change the performance if they aren't a good match (becuase it can cause the fuel to combust differently or prematurely - i guess almost kicking the cylinder back down before it's full peak). But, yes, I think it is pretty much trial and error with things like that. I'd find some people on this forum with the same engine and see what they report is good with it.

Hey Alex!!! that is freaking hilarious... sorry, I don't mean to laugh, but I am picturing someone running down the street in flip flops with their radio in hand trying to catch up to a speeding car. I can't believe you caught it!!

Glad you did, but I also wanted to add my 2 cents about the batteries. I use zip ties in my hyper 7 and just cut them off when I go to charge. They are only like $1` for 50 of them at walmart.

In the himoto though, I never had a problem with that becuase of the box/pin set up keeps them wrapped up tight. Did you have the pin in keeping the lid shut?

Tim
Old 08-18-2006, 05:54 PM
  #860  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)


Mozz, i think im having second thoughts with the modified cobra by these statement

since tire size (ie, contact patch) is limited, traction is limited (limited even further by the fact that we race on dirt instead or tarmac or carpet). also, our cars have a minimum weight value in order to race. these simple facts mean that a car can only support a limited amount of power to the wheels to maintain maximum acceleration. any more power beyond that will make the wheels spin and decrease acceleration. so, up to a point, more power can be useful. beyond a certain point, it is wasted.

there are no 3hp buggy engines out there. and if u could buy one, it wouldnt be driveable. you would constantly try to regulate the throttle to maintain control while others are simply driving by.

what you want in a high performance engine is smooth, controllable power, with low gas consumption. that is why the V-spec is so popular. many engines that are modded are done so to increase gas mileage, smooth out the power curve, and sometimes increase reliability.
what do you think?
Old 08-18-2006, 07:41 PM
  #861  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

my buggy should get here next week, i'm going to try my hardest to get it ready for the rc x games... it might be too late for that. I may NOT have enough time to break in an engine, as I don't even have an engine from my sponsor yet!!! If i can't get it broken in by laborday weekend, i plan on running a booth for Redcat Racing in the RC Swap Meet.

More info on rc x games can be seen here: [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtWl7oMSz6o&mode=related&search=]R/C X-Games[/link]
Old 08-18-2006, 11:34 PM
  #862  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hey guys cheers for that. Hi Alex, yeah I'd agree with Louis and also say that if your batteries pop out, the failsafe won;t work. I use to just use a piece a gaffa tape which you could stick & unstick over and over and will keep your batteries nice & snug, but recently I bought a couple of venom hump packs. I'd highly recommend these hump packs over normal alkalines or rechargables. They pump out more than 6V and that basically means way faster & stronger servo travel . One 1200Mah hump seems to last at least a couple of hours of continous use & they recharge in about an hour depending on how fast the fast charger is. And since they can never fall out, they are simply the best choice for bashing or racing I reckon especially when jumps are involved. Goes without saying how much money you end up saving too. But Alex in any case it is an absolute must to have a failsafe though anyway. I can;t tell you how many times mine has kicked in at the right moment & saved the day. Not only do have to watch the buggy's batteries but anything from radio drop outs, glitches, transmitter batteries failing, will all result in a runnaway buggy, which usually ends in tears. Anyway enough said on that one hey. Hope there wasn;t much damage but I'll also add that for me, these are way too fast for the average road so they really need to be run in wide open spaces I think. Good to see you having a blast though!

Cheers for the info Louis. Yeah just reiterate, the RBWS7(7 ports) I have is a high RPM short stroke and the Nova P5(5 ports) is a low RPM Torque long stroke motor. The VZB V-spec you have is a 4 port low RPM Torque long stroke I think?? in regards to the Cobra being possibly too powerful, I can totally see that person point of view. But I think that that sounds much like he's speaking from personal experience with a particular engine. Doesn't mean you wouldn't be able to handle it nor does it mean that your buggy couldn;t handle it. We've discussed that there's heaps of factors involved and 2 we haven;t much are things like clutch settings, tyre choices, standard versus TC Diffs and the various diff oils. These will all greatly affect how your motor and buggy run. Also the fact he says there isn;t any 3hp motors is, well, incorrect as they're are quite a few up around the 3Hp mark available at the moment. the smallest axe rossi is 2.6Hp with the majority around 3hp and above. With the cobra VP mod though, at almost 4Hp it sounds to me to be way over the top quite frankly. The regular cobra is rated at 3.1Hp and even that out does the most powerful novarossi on the market. I read recently that Australias top drivers including the nat champ are switching to cobras for this season. One thing I have been hearing about the cobra is its even usable powerband. Meaning that the motor although powerful it has smooth controllable accleration right the way through the powerband. Unlike my RBWS7 for example, which is typically a top end RPM screamer that has less immediate action followed by an immense sling shot action when it really hits top RPMs and the powerband.

Thanks Tim yeah I must say that the infinity is far more reliable plug wise compared to my WS7. Do you find that you need to use a hotter plug in winter than you would in summer? I'm thinking that its too cold to you a cold plug like in summer and perhaps I need to shift up into a hotter temp range? What do you think. What plug do you use in the Hyper? I beleive OS#8s work but you apprantly get way better power from a Mccoy 9 or 8. Can;t remember which one but its also got to do with the reach of the plug.

Hey Kemo I checked out that vid! *ucking awesome video hey. That track is awesome and that jump is so insane. Rather jealous seeing that now! haha geez you guys get it good over there in the US! Let us know how it goes as I will be very curious to see how the redcat stands up under those crazy jumps!

Keep it going guys!
Matt
Old 08-18-2006, 11:49 PM
  #863  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

i'll be lucky if get there just in time. I'll be even more lucky to have it race ready on a vehicle I have never driven before
Old 08-19-2006, 07:42 AM
  #864  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

yeah I see your point. I've got both a Kyosho & a himoto/redcat and I'd have to say that after a lot of fine tuning I have both performing very well. Both steer very well and they redcat shocks seem to be very good. Even the steering geometry is different on both buggies they have similar handling characteristics although the main difference would weight at the moment.
Oh well good luck anyway if ya get there!
Old 08-19-2006, 10:08 AM
  #865  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Hey Kemo you sound like a serious racer? What would your suggestion be for the best glow plug to use with a RB WS7? I'm using 20% nitro and its the temp here is about 55F. Any ideas?
Cheers
Matt
Old 08-19-2006, 10:18 PM
  #866  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

first off, you should have it on 30% because its a race engine .

RB recommends #01056-6. I'd say any OS #8 will do!

OR, fox plugs: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFTW8&P=ML
Old 08-20-2006, 01:32 AM
  #867  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

cheers! Yeah well I bought the motor 2nd hand and they'd already used 20%, so I've stuck with using that. Not sure what plug the previous owner used but I'm pretty impressed by its performance though. Runs beautifully. The people that have seen it & used it reckon its dam fast as it is but if I get a new high performance engine I'd probably run it off 30% and get better temps anyway. But yeah at the moment an OS#8 works best but still doesn't last that long. I would have thought for 30% you'd need to have a colder plug at least? The OS#8 is theoretically a medium hot plug & is recommended for upto 15% nitro they reckon. I've tried their R5 cold race plug but they don't last very long at all. But I guess as people say; its a trial by error process. I've yet to try the more expensive plugs like rossi, mccoy & O'donnell so maybe I'll find a good one amongst them. Fox plugs I haven't seen in the shops here. There is the net of course. But dam it can get expensive if these plugs don't hold out!
Old 08-20-2006, 11:30 AM
  #868  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

up to 15%? I've used 8's in everything I've owned and they have lasted pretty decent too. Medium hot range is about 5-40% nitro.
Old 08-20-2006, 11:38 AM
  #869  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

Screw racing at a track! I RACE REAL TRAFFIC AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
Old 08-20-2006, 12:08 PM
  #870  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

yeah, but i break less parts this way. When winter comes around, i'm ususally racing the snow plow trucks, as they like the roost my stadium trucks throw. He pushes the snow, i drive the side he has yet to plow.
Old 08-20-2006, 02:04 PM
  #871  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

ok who's the one who said what MP 7.5 parts will fit? I've been looking at the servo tray, and the shock towers. Are those compatible? I'm slapping Carbon Fibre on in a heart beat if i can!
Old 08-20-2006, 03:04 PM
  #872  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

I think the servo tray fits exact, and the shock towers fit BUT the holes aren't in the right place. I think you could re drill the holes though.

might wanna double check against someone elses advice.

Tim
Old 08-20-2006, 03:08 PM
  #873  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

which holes dont match up on the shock towers? You mean where the shocks mount up to?
Old 08-20-2006, 08:24 PM
  #874  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

actually the arms

The shocks would fit on there but they may be optimized in a different posistion

Tim
Old 08-20-2006, 09:44 PM
  #875  
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Default RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)

thats where setup comes in.


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