chubbysuncle

Mitch, use superglue. Krazy Glue. The hobbyshops call it CA glue. same stuff. Just don't glue your fingers together!

Popper252

Hey mitch like chubbysuncle said the glue is called CA glue at the hobby shop. It comes in three different varieties. I forget the exact terminology they use but it's something like low medium and high. The low stuff is thicker and takes a long time to dry where as the high is thinner so it dries within a few seconds. I personally just got the medium, it gives you enough time to put it all the way around the rim but it's not so slow that you have to wait too long for it to dry.
As for starting options try this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4068240/tm.htm]THREAD[/link]. There is an HPI pullstart that I have listed that has lasted me a while. They seem to be built better and have a little plate built in that keeps the reel inside the pullstart. My stock pullstart also broke within the first few days. I'm kind of to blame for that because i was yanking it out too far... but oh well you live and you learn. There is also a tigerdrive unit and an hpi rotostart. The main difference between those is that the rotostart uses a special drill that hooks up to a 7.2v battery where as the tigerdrive uses just any old drill. Personally though I'd still recommend using the pullstart just because it's one less thing to worry about.

hondaidiot

ok good news guys i finally purchased my car off ebay tonight i went with the syclone with .18 vertex engine hoping for it to arrive within a week i actually found it on there for 179 but guy had some negative feedback and appeared as if he was just selling the cars and didnt know much about them so i purchased from projdm he is located in cali, i'll write more once i get the car just wanted to tell all those who helped me out and gave me their stories with them a thanks so will fill ya in once it arrives, oh might as well ask now is it best to drive the car to break it in or should i set it up on a block i read a previous post where a guy said he set it up and left the room or something i'm sure the book will tell me to but its always nice to ask thanks again

Lordmik

I'm new to this nitro stuff, so if I ask seemingly simple questions, please don't hold it against me. Are these things suppose to restart without the glow plug igniter after they've warmed up? Sometimes mine dies, and I have to start it with the igniter on every time. If this is normal, then that's fine, I'd just like to know. Also, sometimes when I run it wide open for a little while, say for 50 yards or so, it just dies, almost like you shut it off. Any ideas? I think I'm a little on the rich side, which I understand is better than lean. The car fires right back up, with the igniter on, every time. Other than these two minor issues, I love this thing. It's a blast. The tires are almost bald on it now. I've run about a half gallon of fuel through it. The only thing that's happened that wasn't user error was the driveshafts from the tranny stopped turning(not at the same time) because the set screws backed out. A little loctite seemed to cure that. Thanks in advance for anyone's ideas.

nitrojuan

Lordmik -

I'm new to nitro cars myself, but as I understand these glow plug engines, you will usually need to use the glow plug ignitor to restart the engine. I've never tried to start without it, but maybe the engine could be hot enough to ignite the fuel without the ingnitor? Maybe I'll try it and see sometime...

My Syclone has the same issue with sometimes cutting off when it's wide open for several seconds. I too have left it a bit rich rather than risk over heating. I thought it might be overheating, or that it's attempting, and failing, to shift gears (I have never actually heard mine shift in second). I also read something on the Blue Thunder 20% fuel I use that it attempts to protect against over heating by changing slightly at higher temperatures and "starving" the engine and thus cutting it off. I have not tried any other fuels yet. What kind of fuel do you use?

- John

Popper252

You'll have you use the glow charger every time you want to start your engine. There are rare cases where the engine may still be hot enough to ignite the fuel, but it doesn't happen very often.
As for the cutting off, I think what's happening is that it's going to shift to second gear and because your motor is rich it bogs down and kills itself. Try leaning it out a little. Turn the high speed needle in 1/8th of a turn at a time untill it shifts without cutting off.

Lordmik

That's good to know about the glow plug. I wasn't sure. And mine's a single speed, so that eliminates that. I know I should try to lean it out some, but I'm chicken. I'm using a 20% fuel, but I'm not sure of the brand. I got it at my LHS. The more I tinker with this thing, the better I get at figuring things out about it. It sure is a blast to drive. I'm a mechanic by trade, but cars and truck are much bigger and more complex. These cars are awfully small for my beat up hands to work on, with all those little screws and whatnot. I was considering upgrading to some aluminum parts, but as long as I keep from running into things too hard, it holds up pretty good.

ehroof

sorry popper to step on your toes but i think they are running too lean, they need to richen up the engines, when they cut out on hard acceleration or high rpm for a few seconds its usually from lack of fuel, i would richen a 1/4 turn counter clocwise on the high end and see what happens.

mitch46701

ok guys ive about had it with this thing i replaced the pull start no easy task i must say every time i need something for this thing i either have to wait a week or got to lhs and adapt something to fit. so i replaced pullstart $23 replaced axes holders in rear and 2 axles $7 burnt up set of tires which are special size bye the way $61 for tires and wheels lhs oh and i forgot the clutch that broke the day i bought it $6 and the weak throttle servo right out of box $12 Now tonight not ten minutes after i replaced pull start the clutch bell shatters and sends my new clutch flying. so now i need a clutch set and clutch bell. i tell you what im tempted to change the whole drive system to hpi or something I paid less than 200 dollars for the car and i got $109 in it in 2 weeks to keep it going at first I was like oh ill do this just one weak link ok maybe two but it seems now like the whole thing is junk the .18 motor is 2 weeks old and makes a mess of things every time i start it up i already ripped the decals off the car by the time im done i shoulda spent the extra $120 bucks for a 1/10 truck at the lhs. my question is are the new parts improved or am i just buying a extra couple weeks when i replace these parts.

Popper252

Oh ok ehroof, I thougt It was maybe because when they got up to speed the engine would flood or something like that. I guess now that I think about it that doesn't really make sense. I just assumed they were running rich because that's what they had said. Thanks for correcting me man

j-boy

no you cannot start a glow egine without a glow starter attached. Doesn't matter how hot it is. As a matter of fact you have to have a well charged glow starter because if the glow starter isnt making the plug hot enough the fuel will extinguish the plug. I have a rechargeble glow ignitor and a backup starter that runs on double a batteries in case I wear out the rechargeble starter before Im done playing By the way I have a cyclone and an MGT and an Evader electric st pro. I hate too see people knocking the redcats and the himotos because I dont think they are a whole lot less of a value. They are a little cheaper built to be sure but I can definitely tell you that you dont have to work on or repair them any more than you do any other rcs. I spend just as much time (if not more) maintaining my cars than playing with them. It doesnt matter what brand or model you get you'll have different parts that give you trouble. So unless you have money to waste you might as well go with the less expensive brands. I think that the hellfire is a really sweat lookin ride and Id like to play with one but there aint no way Id shell out that much money for an rtr.[:-] just my two cents post u later

Sorry for posting repeat advice. I thought I had come to the bottom of the page

hondaidiot

ok well it just arrived tonight and i already have a couple of questions first where on earth do i plug the charger into the glow plug at i am clueless since i have never had one before also i got the remote for the car and the atenna doesnt seem to wanna screw into anything, are you supposed to push the antenna all the way down inside the controller or is there supposed to be something for it to screw into less than an inch inside of it cause there doesnt appear to be anything for it to screw into, thanks

Popper252

Haha glad you got it all in one piece.

For the glow charger, pull the metal sleeve up towards the battery, then put the metal end of the wall charger cable against the bottom of the glow charger and let go of the sleeve. It should grab onto the metal piece on the wire.

For the antennae, just find the little hole at the top of the remote and slide the antennae all the way to the bottom. It'll slide in a good couple of inches. Then once it gets to the bottom of the remote just screw it in.

If you're still having problems let us know.
I'm not the best at explaining things so it's cool if you don't get what i just said.

hondaidiot

ok i have the glow plug charging count down set for lift off in 7.5 hrs, well not really lol, oh does it hurt it if it gets more than an 8hr charge the first time cause that would be like 3 am when its done here, also the battery inside the car does that need to be charged or does it come with a charge in it, and good lord do these instruction manuels do a ****ty job at explaining things ok will have more later most likely thats all i can think of for now

Popper252

It won't hurt the glow charger if you leave it on for more than that. I think i read somewhere on here that it uses a trickle charge method so essentially it'll never overcharge itself. The car doesn't come with any batteries already installed in the box. You'll have to put 4aa's in there. A good set of energizers should last you for about a gallon of fuel.
And yeah the manual sucks. That's why we're here

hondaidiot

well i know that the remote needs batteries and i put duracell in that, but there is this black box looking at the car from the backend of it on the left side there is a little long box with a switch on it ok i just opened it and there are wires in there i think that is better off left closed lol but shouldnt the battery that is on the car already come with a charge?

ehroof

there are no batteries in that box, you have to put 4 aa batteries in there. take off the screws, take out the batter holder and put the batteries in then put it back the way it was. let the glow plug ignitor charge for at least 12-16 hours before you use it, maybe more, if it came with instructions see what it says.

hondaidiot

ok got the batteries in it now, and the glow plug didnt come with an unstructions it was with one of those starter kits so guess it was just forgotton to get put it or just dont come with instructions so i will just let it charge till i wake up in the morning will be like 20hrs or something, and after i put the hose on for my antenna cord is it ok to just cut off the excess that sticks out the end of the plastic, i'm pretty sure i should but i wanted to double check before i go cutting anything off and cant get it back on there lol, thanks again

Popper252

Yeah that battery box is a tight fit. Unscrew the 3 screws holding it shut and take out the plastic battery holder. Throw some aa's in there and cram everything back in. Then hit the switch and watch the servos twitch to life.

hondaidiot

i'll hit the switch tomorrow once i have some gas for it, need to run to the hobby shop across town but since the glow plug wont be ready for a long time no since running over there just for the gas figured i would test it out while i'm there also so gonna head over tomorrow afternoon for the gas and break it in over there.

chubbysuncle

Don't cut the antennea wire. Just take the excess and run it back down the tube on the outside. put the little rubber cap on the top and a small piece of electrical tape or fuel tubing to hold the excess in place on the outside.
Make sure and check the radio before trying to start the car. Turn the controller and car switches on and make sure the wheels steer and the throtttle works everytime BEFORE you try starting. Good luck

Popper252

Haha I forgot to turn on my transmitter the other day and i went to start it and it took off on me. [:@] haha woops. So after a long sprint and a couple close calls it finally flipped itself and I was able to grab it. The buggy came out pretty much unscathed, unfortunately I can't say the same for myself.

chubbysuncle

That kinda thing really sucks when you're showing someone your car/ truck and you're excited. You start it up ready to show off and there it goes..VOOOOOOM.... and your buddy says "was it supposed to do that?" as your running after it![][X(]

hondaidiot

ok well off to the hobby shop track i go, they sure didnt give me very much info in the manual that came with the car chapter way of starting engine god i read that i didnt find anything helpfull in there thank god i there are going to well supposed to be some people that know what their doing at this rc shop so well see how it goes lol, i read most of the posts on here about how to start it but i cant remember much so well see if it croaks lol, ok off to check it out thanks for the help will be back with more questions.

hondaidiot

ok well so far it seems to run ok it was a real pain to start at first but finally got it running have about two tanks through it so far and put it up for the night i also cut a hole in the front of the shell for more air to flow through and help keep the engine cool (adivce from the guy that owns the shop) but i found a couple things i didnt like and could just be because its breaking in, but i found what appeared to be some metal shavings down by my exhaust pipe and fly wheel mixed in with the drying gas i hope thats normal if not let me know, also when driving my car straight down the road it drives itself to the left and i have steering trim set almost straight up and down the little line pointing towards the top i thought that would mean straight but it pulls left so not quite sure how to fix it so need help with that also, well thats all i can think of right now but i'm sure something else will come to me later