jguitarsandcars

Yeah, I forget the number on these, I saved the tag to post, but I think wife threw them away...I think they're just too heavy duty although they're longer, so it takes more for them to stretch out and work...or the adverse, they're too long and opening too quick...not letting the engine rev up enough before they engage...I had all intentions of getting the traxxas, since this is the shop that talked me into buying the traxxas we have, but he doesn't carry the individual springs, only the whole set-up and he was out of them

Dark

for those who need the clutch spring only, better just go with the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUR89&P=7]MIP Replacement Clutch Springs T-Maxx[/link] thats cheaper than getting the shoes w/ 1 spring for the maxx, + there are 2 springs per bag.. i use that spring with an integy flywheel 3 shoes aluminium setup on my trx 2.5 engine that i put in my rc10gt, work wonderfull..

Dark

jguitarsandcars

Thanks Dark...I'll have to order me some of those.

Popper252

Hey mitch, would it be possilbe for you to go into a little more detail as to what modifications you needed to do to get that 2 speed hpi transmission working? Only reason I ask is because I've been eyeing those things for a while now and just never had the guts to pony up the cash and buy one. Just from looking of pictures of them online it looks like the shaft that everything sits on is a little bit longer that ours. Was that a big problem or could you work around that? Thanks man.

nitro_racer_1

My Feedback: (2)

could someone post a link to that tranny, cuz i have an rs4 2speed in my parts boxes, but i dont see how it would work.

Popper252

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBTB6&P=7

That's it right there.

Here are some more pictures of it:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...-2%20P2_A4.jpg

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/press/p86038_2.jpg

http://press.hpieurope.com/pressgfx/high/p86038.jpg

mitch46701

LOL ok it looks discouraging yes i agree all i did was leave the one plastic spacer out and placed a small washer in it and it fit perfectly except the shaft was a little to long going to the front diff all i did was take a hacksaw and cut it to the length of the original shaft being careful to cut the right end off due to the one way bearing setup for 1st gear( shaft is a little bigger there for it) then i took diamond do all in my drill and put a flat spot in the shaft for the drive shaft coupler its a little late tonight but ill get some pictures of it installed the clutch bell gears hit the support so i just removed it and it clears ill also throw a little video in with it if i am able of it running it sounds like an indy car when it shifts. sorry too so long to reply but my neighbor turned me into his mechanic and his OS .18 cv-r kept breaking and stripping parts in his tranny id replace one and it would break another anways all new tranny now so im sure ill be available a little more. I didnt think to take pictures when i installed it ill try to remember in the future to do that
Yes my tools are a little out of date but havent bought a dremel yet

nitro_racer_1

My Feedback: (2)

thanks for the link, well that looks just like what i have in my parts box, so il take you guys word and put it on cuz i am NOT impressed with the stock 2 speed, and i cant wait fr thoes pics that will hep, thanks

hondaidiot

help help help lol, got the car fixed and the new parts put on, it was giving me a headace cause everytime i took out the ignitor the car died unless i had my finger on the trigger a little bit, so when i took it in to have the guy help me tune it up he told me it needed a new glow plug and just cause the plug turned red when the ignitor was on it didnt mean it was a good plug like i knew that sheesh, he spent 10mins working on it on the bench and has a non american accent so half the time i didnt know what he was saying and i just agreed and said mmmhmm yeah mhmm ok yes got it i was kinda clueless, so it turns out my steering was just fine once he ran it just needed to adjust the steering trim a hair and it worked stupid me, damn the car moves like stink holy crap i can already see myself smashing it into something or god only knows what, i'm not to proud to say that i joined the kartwheeling front flip club today in the parking lot while breaking it in without the case on it and i thanked god that nothing else has snapped after that happend so at least it can hold upto minor kartwheel front flips lol damn rise in the concrete, i also had it wide open and almost slammed it into a big blue garbage bin there in the lot but thanks to my superior driving skills i parked it 2inches away from the bottom of the bin actually my lack of driving skills and pure luck prevented it from bending in half lol, well just wanted to say that it runs now and its lots of fun but i'm scared of it lol, anyways sorry for my book i cant ever write anything short. oh and that topspeed toys website holy crap the parts came way sooner than expected i got them yesterday ordered last fri or sat i wasnt expecting them till next week sometime.

jguitarsandcars

Dude...You're not supposed to be wide open when you're breaking it in...LOL...hell, I've got my son's traxxas broken in, just can't seem to get it tuned right since, but being a monster truck with that much torque, I've flipped it over a few times without the shell...I need to buy him new body mounts, his are ground down pretty nice...LOL.

hondaidiot

oh it wasnt wide open when i was breaking it in i was at the hobby shop and the guy said it was only about half throttle and i had ran about 3 tanks through it before i took it there i gave in cause i was having a hell of time getting the little pos to work, he said it was doing about 50 and then later on said i can run it wide open and man i dunno wide open is too much for me, maybe i should have bought a slower one lol, i am totally brand new to driving these things and man its gonna take me a few thousand hours to get the handling down on these little finger rockets, i am thinking about foaming my tires a couple people have told me to do so, also the track i plan on taking it to has a jump on it i would say you climb up about 8inches thats the finish line jump and they have another double in there on the other side of the track, so does anyone have any advice as to if these stocks shocks will hold up very well on jumps and what i could do to try and prevent breaking parts that i dont have a clue as to what they are lol, figured i would try to take some pre cautions so it would be in too big of a heap on the other side of the jump. oh yes one more thing the shocks that are on the syclone can they be filled with oil?

jguitarsandcars

Honda, Yeah, they're oil filled shocks. I didn't bother foaming the tires on my Syclone because it didn't seem like it needed it. Being 4wd and sitting low it handled pretty good. I did foam up the tires on the monster truck (a trick I used to do in the old electric days) but there's a lot of space in those tires that colapses. The only thing I really did other than change weight of the oil in mine was put some of the spare spring spacers off my son's t-maxx to stiffen up the springs a little since I couldn't see a way to adjust the stock collars. As for learning to drive, That's what throttle control helps with. Just have an easy touch on the trigger and gradually give it more and more as you get more comfortable. It took me a little bit to get back in the swing of these after not having anything this fast in about 10 yrs, but the best advice I can give although I'm a semi-newbie (and you more experienced guys correct me if I'm wong), is a gentle fingertip touch on the controller. Gentle fluid motions. You don't want to have a hard grip on the wheel, and you don't want to just turn it lock to lock. Small adjustments on the controls make a much bigger difference than most realize. Oh yeah...and most important...Experience is the best teacher. As I explained to my kid when I was trying to teach him to drive his truck "You're new to this, it's a toy. You're gonna break things while learning how to drive it, it's part of the game, so Don't be afraid. That's what Spare Parts are for." Little did I know when I made that comment, that my LHS doesn't carry all that many spare parts for the vehicles he sells. But you should have seen him. He's 13, his first non-tyco R/C and he was just so nervous because he was afraid to break it. He was going so slow that it was flooding out. I tought him though. When he gave it back to me (once again, he was done 'cause he was afraid to break it), I opened it all the way to clean it out, then forgot I was standing in front of the picnic table to my right, not my left. I hit the brakes, put it into a wide open slide on the grass, and sent it doing cartwheels into the table. Snapped 2 ty-rod ends. I haven't been able to get the darned thing to run right since...LOL...

Popper252

As far as I'm concerned there should only be 4 buttons on the remote. The wide open button(POWER!!!), the lock up the brakes button, full left, and full right.
I hate all that inbetween space on the throttle trigger and the turning wheel. What's all that stuff about anyways? Too much variability for my tastes.

But anyways, last night was a doozy. Took my buggy out to the parking garage roof and put on my slicks (they used to have tread.. but the cement on the roof took care of that). I was having trouble priming the car funny enough. I think my gas tank has a leak in it somewhere. But after I got all that taken care of I started playing with my shiftpoints and stuff. I never really got that setting down though. It was always either too little or too much. It'd shift too soon and just completely bog the engine down or never shift at all.
My favorite part of the night is when I had it at wide open throttle (what else would I have it at?) and I was in the process of turning my head because it just zoomed by me and ofcourse there was my friends electric Evader sitting there. I tried to turn it but It was too little too late and I ended up smacking into his rear rim. It tore my entire right front suspension assembly completely off. All I saw were parts flying everywhere. Oddly enough all I could do was laugh. It was a sight to see my buggy limping around on 3 wheels.
Fortunately the only thing that broke was the lower arm. I also bent up my shock shaft but that wasn't a problem to bend into place. After a quick trip to my parts bin that I carry around with me and about 10 minutes of tinkering I had everything fixed and up and running again. The car has never ran so good after the crash. I dunno what happened but the thing was a scorcher after I got it going again. So the moral of the story is: If you don't like tuning your car, just crash it. It'll tune itself.

Sooo.... now I have a question. The little cap at the top of my shocks that attaches to the ball on the shock tower is losing it's grip and comes off real easily. It's also kind of grinded down because of all the sliding this thing has done on its roof. Is there anyway to replace just the cap rather than having to buy a whole new shock? And I guess I might as well get a new shock shaft, because as much as I've tried I can't get mine completely straight. Thanks in advance.

Popper252

I also have a question about my radio and charging it. I have the futbaba 2pl with the charge jack on the bottom and I want to get a set of rechargeables for it. What do you all recommend? What mah should I look for? Also where can I find a charger that'll fit into it?
I was looking at towerhobbies and all I could find was this thing: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNK66&P=ML]Charger[/link]
The nice thing about that is that it has a connection for a reciever pack incase I ever wanted to buy a hump pack.

The only issue I see is that the remote charger is rated at 9.6v and the reciever is at 4.6v where my remote right now pumps out 12v and the reciever does 6 volts on a set of fresh batteries. Should I just try looking for a different charger or would that work?

Also at what voltage should I change out the batteries I have in the remote right now? The little display on my remote says i'm sitting right at 10.5 volts. Should I be worried or is that good enough to last me for a while?

lucasdon17

Hey Popper252 , Hi All

My fuel tank also has a probs. It leaking near the lid. WHen i try to close it seems to close ari tight ,but i am not able to prime. But when i open and close the lid..i see fuel just rush to the carb even without trying to prime. When the car runs , i see that the lid gets a bit lose again and the engine dies. What did u do.?? Is it the same issue as mine. I cant run the car for more than 3 to 4 min as i see air bubbles in the fuel line

The key to getting me burn rubber is in ur hands now

Pl help

thank you

Popper252

Haha man that's a lot of pressure (Or i guess in this case there's a lack of pressure... haha....corny i know) I think my issue is that I cracked the very bottom of the fuel tank where it's exposed and not protected by the chassis. Also I think my lid must have some sort of leak somewhere because after running the car for a little bit I can see where the fuel has splattered out to the side on the plastic upper plate.
I just ordered a new one so hopefully I'll be in good shape once that gets here.
What I did to confirm my leak was I blew into the tube that comes from the muffler and I could hear air escaping from the lid so that's obviously my problem.
Priming my car sucks but once I get it running it stays running untill I have to fill it up again and reprime it. It sounds like your leak is probably worse than mine since you have so much air in the lines. You may also want to try replacing your fuel lines. I was inspecting mine the other day and found that there was a small little rip in it. The new tubing was about a dollar a foot at the lhs. Try either clermontmotorsports.com or topspeedtoys.com for a new fuel tank. They both have free shipping going on so you can't lose.

Dark

lucasdon17, open the lid and tighten the screw that hold the seal.. that will put more pressure on the seal and it will expand, making a better seal between the tank and the lid.

hope this help,
Dark

lucasdon17

Ok . I rush out in the middle of the work day , drive to the walmart parking lot, tighten the lid screw, change the fuel line try to start the engine. Still the same issue. Not priming. When i close the lid and open ..say a few times.. i notice the fuel rush to the carb. SO i guess Dark, its what u told me abt the gasket issue.

I notice another probs. After the engine is primed or rather flooded, my first attempt to start the engine, i see spray of fuel from near the clutch bell . The place where its connected to the engine. Popper , u told me earlier , that its probably a leak near the crank gasket.

So, looks like i have to get ready for something big now. Have u all seen any exploded view of this engine. I really wanna knw what i am opening. May be any gaskets available anywhere. What else would be the issue. Is this leak/spray something normal when the engine is flooded.

Pl dont tell me i have to get another engine.

I come back to work and get ROYALLY screwed by my partner. ALL for nitro thirst i guess !!

Popper252

Hey lucas, I need to reapply some rtv sealant to my carb later tonight. If not tonight for sure i'll have it done tomorrow. I'll post some pictures for you when I get the chance just to make your life a little easier. It's not hard to do but it certainly helps to know what you're doing, because if you yank too hard on that carb in the wrong way the plastic holding it to the crank case will def. break. I'll just post it in the FAQ thread.

Dark

lucas, if ur going to seal ur engine.. follow this lilttle guide.. the very first nitro engine i had was a real tuning/idling/stalling nightmare... untill i pull it out and switch to a OS engine.. 8 months later i did seal the engine with high temp silicone and now it run just fine! give it a try

[link=http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=54465]Guide to seal up ur engine[/link]

the fact is i just got my 1/10 buggy today in the mail... and i didnt even run it yet.. but for sure i will seal the whole engine tonigh b4 i run it for the first time tomorrow.
and i will seal any other new engine i will get in the future

and about ur leak in the front bearing.. its normal to leak there if ur engine is flooded.. should not be an issue IMO.. if u seal up ur engine and continue to experiment engine problems.. MB the front bearing is toast.. but thats rare.. anyways.. begin with the sealing process and u will see.

Dark

ehroof

popper, regular batteries are 1.5volts so 8x1.5=12v, rechargable are 1.2 volts so 8x1.2=9.6v

Popper252

Haha you're so smart man. Thanks.

lucasdon17

HEY Popper252

That will be great. Thank you.

R T V sealant. Is this off the counter in any lhs or auto zone. Pl let me knw. Its new to me.

lucasdon17

Hey Dark

Thanks for throwing in some LIGHT !!

I will keep u posted. Sadly its goin to the rain this whole weekend. I hope i get few minutes to spin it around.

Thanks again

mitch46701

LOL what a blast guys had mine out running like 5 min ago and tore out first gear must not have had mesh depth right i put those dirt hawg proline tires on and it has so much grip that at high speed it will flip over in a turn what a blast