nitrosteve22

Thanks jcam,that looks like a pretty good radio but do you think the Airtronics MX-3 FM would do just as good? It's only $114 with two "standard heavy duty" servo's which should be better than the stockers for the Tornado plus it has a five model memory with some fancy features and extra recievers run like $40-$50 if I remember correctly. Plus Tower sent me an email with a code to save $20 bucks on my next order,almost pulled the trigger on it this morning but hesitated. I've read good reviews about it,whats your opinion on it?

AJsToyz

Hi Darin,

I have a Tornado XP and I do think the car is really cool , BUT !!! I had a small starting issue. I started the car , had it running for all of 1/2 seconds and it siezed. I'm not talking bound up starter or hydro locked this baby stuck. I've been running nitro engines since the 70's and have never seen this. I had to take the head off to get it to free up. When I tried to cycle it , the piston pushed the cylinder out of the block. I inspected the piston best I could , and the cylinder but didn't see any flaws. It was binding about 1/8" before getting to the top. When I took it out of the box I though this was the highest compression engine I've ever seen the way the starter pulled. It turns out it was too tight. I oiled up the cylinder and slipped it back in. While holding it with my finger so it would have a little give to come up. I pulled the starter for a while and when it got to the point the cylinder stayed in I re-assembled the engine. Its running really good , but I wanted to know is this going to wear out early from being to tight ??

Let me know! Thanks!! Andy

white_mexican5

I am thinking about getting a RedcatRacing Tornado XL. If anyone has this can u please answer my questions...

~How easy are replacement parts
~How strong is it[sm=punching.gif]
~And is it a good begining buggy for someone who does not have expirence with nitro

thx

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

Replacement parts are available from plenty of dealers inclucing myself.
THey do take a beating but if you plan on jumping alot, I would get something higher and bigger like the volcano.
Just my opinion. Feel free to look around my site.

snowolf

i have a tornado xp never had any other nitro cars before
got it running and tuned in real easy
if i would do it again i would buy the two speed xl version
broke a couple a arms running it in the cold (less than 10 degrees out )
easy fix
buy the stater kit with the car its a good deal

AJsToyz

Very cool set up !! If my yanker breaks I might put that on mine !!

blackdogafd

hey if you havent checked out my pics yet i put some new ones up checkem out when ya can. i'll get new ones on there after i get my new futaba system installed too.

i do wanna get a different air filter and a different exhaust system for but not sure what to get. i've heard that dynamite makes some good exhaust sys. but not sure which one to get, what about the motorsaver air filters? i was looking at gettin like a k&n type air filter for but not sure which company even stocks them?

let me know!!!

daeskimo

Hey snowolf, I believe that it is actually the XP that is the "suped up" version, and the XL has less features. So if u have the XP, you should have the 2-speed and everything. did u state the wrong model?

martinanderson

I would offically like to nominate myself as the worst tunner in the world!!!!!!!! I have read and read the tuning post and I just cant get it down, Man my airplanes are so much easier to tune, my rustler and syclone kick my butt all over the place, I dont know what is up or down with these things anymore!!! I even made tiny adjustment and drove for awhile then it seems like bam, the thing is bogging down and barely runing, Thats when I put it up for the night, because this is a hobby that is supose to be fun and I started to not have fun towards the end. If I set my high needle valve flush with the collar the thing would run out off fuel in probly 2 min. From what i see thats where people are saying to start out, But it is probly me [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

martinanderson

also the Idle mixture screw is located on the side of the carb, how do you adjust it when there is a brass nut and where the screw would be it is flat not sloted like the needle valve? what am i doing!!!!!!!

Popper252

No, i'm pretty sure flush with the collar is entirely way to lean. That's why you're running out of gas so fast, to be honest with you I'm surprised the thing even ran at that setting. Mine isn't completely tuned yet, i'm still playing around with it, but i'll try to take a picture of where it is and post it in a little. Hopefully that'll help you out a little.

ehroof

the low end should be even with the collar and the high end 2 1/2 to 3 turns out. the low end setting is on the same side as the throttle linkage, i think your looking at the wrong side. These are the start up setting or break in , you will most likely have to lean it out a little. The high end need to be adjusted first, then the low end.

martinanderson

See this is where i am messed up, I thought if it is way to lean then the fuel would last longer? but I have the valve set at about a 1/16 of and inch in from flush of the collar right now and the thing was spitting fuel and oil out the exhaust like mad. ok i just want to make sure on this in is rich and out is lean right, I hope so if not i might give up due to lack of brains, I would also like to say i am a dodge mechanic (at Woodhouse, some of you may have heard of it due to it is huge) and i have a yamaha yz250, rebuilt it 2 yrs ago, I am very mechanicly inclined just these thing got me all confused as of right now. I am ashamed to say i am a mechanic with the things i am saying right now, man lol

Popper252

Alright here are my pics, apparently i don't know where the low end control valve is. If anyone could help me out i'd really appreciate it.

Edit: I think that may be the low speed needle in the last pic.

ehroof

counterclockwise(out, open) is rich, clockwise (in, close) is lean. Spitting fuel at idle is normal. First adjust high end and make the car run, then pinch fuel line, if engine revs high and stalls the low end is too rich, lean 1/8 turn and run for 30 seconds and do again, the best setting is when it either just stalls or revs slightly and stalls. BTW High end is the adjustment where the fuel line comes in, the low end is where the throttle linkage hooks up.

ehroof

the low end is right where the throttle linkage connect to the slide of the carb, you have to look from the side to see it, its on the throttle servo side of the carb.

martinanderson

okay you guys are talking about the taiwan 18 i have the japanese 18 engine, the box it came with shows both pics, i see the low side on the taiwan but its different on mine. maybe i should have got the taiwan engine? but it shows that in the single speed buggys though

ehroof

maybe you have a carb with only one tuning needle, they do make them. If there is a low end needle it will be on the same side of the carb as the throttle linkage.

martinanderson

give me a min., ill take pics

ehroof

Also if you are finding it hard to tune your nitro engine it is usually a good idea to change the glow plug, sometimes the element start to wear out, just because it lights up doesnt mean its good. especially on a new engine during break in or right after.

Popper252

hey just a stupid question which i already know the answer to, but how bad would it be if there was a little water in the gas tank and the fuel line. I mean it's barely enough to consider it a drop, but would it really kill things all that badly?

ehroof

not as long as you ran it out, dont leave it in the tank, line or engine, would make a problem, moisture is not good for the engine, thats why you should not leave fuel in the tank since nitro fuel attracts moisture. You should run the tank dry before you put it away. i always put it away with an empty tank.

martinanderson

got the pics in my gallery my owners manual shows shows a needle valve and Idle adjustment screw which it points to the opposite side of the throttle linkage. see what you guys think, thank you very much for the help so far, i am feeling better already, you guys are probly thinkin, glad this dude hasnt worked on my vehicle.

Popper252

Haha, time to clean that bad boy. As for the adjustments I wish I could help you but I only recently figured things out on my own engine, I'm not quite sure how your carb is setup. I'm sure someone who knows a little more about these things will chime in though.

ehroof

usually where you have the philips screw by the throttle linkage is, is where the low end is, that screw does not look like a low end needle adjusting screw, does it turn easily or does the whole linkage collar move with it? if the whole linkage collar moves then it seems like you have only the one "high end" setting. These are usually very hard to tune perfectly.