Volcano SV Stalling
09-25-2006, 07:24 PM
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Volcano SV Stalling
My Volcano SV keeps stalling on me when I hit half throttle. Very little smoke unless I gun it off the start, cant hold it open though or it dies. I've changed the glow plug, checked the fuel line and needle valve for obstructions. I've tried richening and leaning out the HSV with the same results, stalling around half throttle, tried adjusting the LSN and that seems to make things worse. I have 5 tanks through it at low speeds on break-in, trying to get more speed now that I'm on to tank 6.
What does anybody else have their HSN & LSN valves set at for turns from closed? I've tried every combo I can think of please help.
What does anybody else have their HSN & LSN valves set at for turns from closed? I've tried every combo I can think of please help.
09-26-2006, 05:04 PM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
IS this a 2 speed? Anyway I have my HSV set a t 3 turns out from all the way in. I have LSV just flush with the collar. I would leave the LSV alone right now and just work with the HSV. I run the Tornado xp though, it has the 2 speed trans. I don't think that should matter . I had the same problem I just kept messing wiht the HSV. What you can do is start all over screw the HSV all the way down ( make sure you don't over tighten, just until it stops turning). Go about 2 1/2 turns out to 3 turns. And the LSV flush with the collar. That will get you back to factory settings. DO you have a temp gun, that would help out alot also. Temp should be around 220 to 260. But try and keep it around 220 or lower for rest of break in. Hopefully someone else might answer you thread, because I am new at this, but have learned alot from these threads . Try going to this thread[link]http://Redcat vehicle repair/tune FAQ[/link] post 22 There is alot of helpfull things here. Hope you get it all worked out. Greg
09-28-2006, 08:16 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Its a single speed tranny. I tried the adjustments as stated and it just slightly better but still not 100%. I've never dealt with a Nitro motor before, so can some one tell me what adjusting the LSN valve is doing to the engine? I understand the HSN is controlling the amount of fuel getting into the carb and idle adjustment is obvious. I guess I will have to keep tinkering with the adjustments till a miracle happens. Thanks.
09-28-2006, 10:06 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
I'll post this in the FAQ thread too...indispensible. this guy wrote this about 2 years ago
He wrote it about the Savage's .25 big block but the method is the same for all engines, really.
He wrote it about the Savage's .25 big block but the method is the same for all engines, really.
ORIGINAL: Frost_
Look, it really doesn't matter what other's settings are... SOOOOO many variables affect this (plug type, fuel type, relative humidity, temperature, differences in eniges and carb that are within allowed manufacturing deviation....) that what one person runs is no comparison to be using against yours.
TUNING 101
There is NO HARM in running the the S25 up to 270F as long as it isn't lean (stuttering).... They guys on another forum have been performance tuning vs. temperature tuning with interesting results. Their engines are running as long as those who were obesessing over lower temperatures, all the while the performance tuned engines were SCREAMING. Did you know that even with 16/49 gearing the stock S25 can be made to wheelie at will AND give good pull to top end? It can while at 270 or so and still provide longevity.
Tune for performance, forget the gimmicks, go with what works.
If you are already getting good top end and you are running at 250F or so (if you haven't bought a 20 dollar temp-taker DO IT) here is what to do to get SNAPPY response, this is what pulls wheels and gives you that GREAT take-off:
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
Look, it really doesn't matter what other's settings are... SOOOOO many variables affect this (plug type, fuel type, relative humidity, temperature, differences in eniges and carb that are within allowed manufacturing deviation....) that what one person runs is no comparison to be using against yours.
TUNING 101
There is NO HARM in running the the S25 up to 270F as long as it isn't lean (stuttering).... They guys on another forum have been performance tuning vs. temperature tuning with interesting results. Their engines are running as long as those who were obesessing over lower temperatures, all the while the performance tuned engines were SCREAMING. Did you know that even with 16/49 gearing the stock S25 can be made to wheelie at will AND give good pull to top end? It can while at 270 or so and still provide longevity.
Tune for performance, forget the gimmicks, go with what works.
If you are already getting good top end and you are running at 250F or so (if you haven't bought a 20 dollar temp-taker DO IT) here is what to do to get SNAPPY response, this is what pulls wheels and gives you that GREAT take-off:
1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...
2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:
3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.
4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.
5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...
If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.
10-03-2006, 08:21 PM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Turns out my carb is coming loose, accelerating and breaking works it loose I think. Because of this I lost the carb post nut from vibration?. [
]
After I locate a replacement nut what can I do to keep this from happening again, the post doesnt seem to hold the carb in place very firmly? [sm=confused.gif]
]After I locate a replacement nut what can I do to keep this from happening again, the post doesnt seem to hold the carb in place very firmly? [sm=confused.gif]
10-04-2006, 08:01 PM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Blue LocTite.
You should have LocTited all metal to metal threads before driving the first time. The plastic threads won't vibrate loose, however check them periodically just to be sure. All screws and bolts work their way out over time, especially with all that engine vibration.
Make sure you get the Blue. The Red is PERMANENT! Both blue and red are in red tubes, so read the label carefully.
You should have LocTited all metal to metal threads before driving the first time. The plastic threads won't vibrate loose, however check them periodically just to be sure. All screws and bolts work their way out over time, especially with all that engine vibration.
Make sure you get the Blue. The Red is PERMANENT! Both blue and red are in red tubes, so read the label carefully.
10-10-2006, 07:44 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Well I am having more problems than expected locating the carb post nut. I have tried the local hobby shop, hardware stores and auto parts stores. I ended up ordering a second engine cheap (sort of) just to have spare parts but I would like to eventually have both engines operational.
Does anyone have any other suggestions as to where I can pick up another one of the carb post nuts? The problem has been the fine threading, 5mm but no one is sure about the thread pitch.
Does anyone have any other suggestions as to where I can pick up another one of the carb post nuts? The problem has been the fine threading, 5mm but no one is sure about the thread pitch.
10-10-2006, 09:13 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
the only suggestion I have is to contact Redcat to find the part number and order one. The manual is useless, I just looked for it. I'm sure if you describe it as the nut that attaches to the carburetor pinch bolt, they will know exactly what you mean.
Shoot, I just had mine in my fingers the other day and I swear it looked just like any other nut. Did you actually take the pinch bolt or engine with you to try to match it up? Most hardware stores like Ace or True Value will have a wide variety of metrics and standards to choose from. You won't have as much luck at a Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck buddy.
Did you consider that even though it's a foreign made with Chinese/Japanese/Taiwanese parts, it COULD possibly be standard thread, not metric? Just a thought. I've seen it before on many applications...
Shoot, I just had mine in my fingers the other day and I swear it looked just like any other nut. Did you actually take the pinch bolt or engine with you to try to match it up? Most hardware stores like Ace or True Value will have a wide variety of metrics and standards to choose from. You won't have as much luck at a Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck buddy.
Did you consider that even though it's a foreign made with Chinese/Japanese/Taiwanese parts, it COULD possibly be standard thread, not metric? Just a thought. I've seen it before on many applications...
10-10-2006, 02:05 PM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Went on online support on Redcats website and they do not stock the part to ship so I'm basically on my own, all they could tell me is thats its 3mm standard thread. Is this correct? I took the bolt right with me everywhere I went and tried every nut in the stores that I could find and the hobby shop did the same. I have a Hobby town Usa I can still try and a small shop in the middle of no where, I was just hoping to avoid the long drives for such a small inexpensive part. Any other suggestions on where to get one would be appreciated.
10-25-2006, 07:27 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
The problem continues. The truck will idle forever and I can drive it around for about 3-4 min not giving it to much gas, then it just decides to stall. Normally it will start right back up, sometimes I have to pull the plug, turn it upside down and give a few pulls to clear it out. Temp is 220-250. Spitting oil out the exhaust no matter how much I lean it out. I run Traxxas 20% Nitro. Any thoughts?
10-25-2006, 08:05 AM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
I run the same fuel as you and mine spits as well, but that's because they use a "generous amount of oil". They don't give a specific percentage, that's all the description says on Tower. Basically they make it to save your engines life!
Okay, the stalling... Hmmmm...
Your idle should be fairly high, just to the point where the clutch doesn't engage. Remember, it's a small motor capable of VERY high rpms.
Right now I have my LSN sunken in a bit, exactly 1.5 turns in from flush with the outside lip Most people use the term "flush with the collar" as a general starting point, but you can lean it a bit. As long as there's oil spitting and smoke coming from the pipe, you're on the rich side. This setting could change tomorrow however, if the temp goes up or down, if it's humid, whatever. It should never vary more than 1 full turn though.
I rarely adjust my HSN, as I don't usually go for top speed. I set it once or twice on the street to the point where I felt it had maximum power gain without sputtering. It's at exactly 3 full turns out from the bottom. Once again, when you finally dial it in you should never need to turn more than 1 full turn either way.
Final recommendation - get yourself a brand new O.S. #8 glow plug (med/hot). A good plug (if you're using stock it's not a good plug) makes a huge performance difference. I'm not sure how cold it is in NY right now, but it's been in the 40s - 50s in MA and my #8 is perfect, but if it's really cold and you want to try a hot plug, get an O.S. A3. Usually the hot plugs are for less than 20% nitro, but it won't hurt due to the oil content we're running. I had one in, but I went to a #8 and it's running great, aside from my first roughed up spur gear in just over a half gallon of fuel. I stopped counting tanks after the break in, but I guess that's not too bad for a spur gear. Easy fix, but I'm replacing the clutch spring and a new 18 tooth HPI racing vented clutch bell (stock is 16 teeth) while it's out to give it more top end and better performance. I guess the stock clutch springs break easily, so keep that in mind.
Good luck...
Okay, the stalling... Hmmmm...
Your idle should be fairly high, just to the point where the clutch doesn't engage. Remember, it's a small motor capable of VERY high rpms.
Right now I have my LSN sunken in a bit, exactly 1.5 turns in from flush with the outside lip Most people use the term "flush with the collar" as a general starting point, but you can lean it a bit. As long as there's oil spitting and smoke coming from the pipe, you're on the rich side. This setting could change tomorrow however, if the temp goes up or down, if it's humid, whatever. It should never vary more than 1 full turn though.
I rarely adjust my HSN, as I don't usually go for top speed. I set it once or twice on the street to the point where I felt it had maximum power gain without sputtering. It's at exactly 3 full turns out from the bottom. Once again, when you finally dial it in you should never need to turn more than 1 full turn either way.
Final recommendation - get yourself a brand new O.S. #8 glow plug (med/hot). A good plug (if you're using stock it's not a good plug) makes a huge performance difference. I'm not sure how cold it is in NY right now, but it's been in the 40s - 50s in MA and my #8 is perfect, but if it's really cold and you want to try a hot plug, get an O.S. A3. Usually the hot plugs are for less than 20% nitro, but it won't hurt due to the oil content we're running. I had one in, but I went to a #8 and it's running great, aside from my first roughed up spur gear in just over a half gallon of fuel. I stopped counting tanks after the break in, but I guess that's not too bad for a spur gear. Easy fix, but I'm replacing the clutch spring and a new 18 tooth HPI racing vented clutch bell (stock is 16 teeth) while it's out to give it more top end and better performance. I guess the stock clutch springs break easily, so keep that in mind.
Good luck...
10-29-2006, 01:00 PM
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RE: Volcano SV Stalling
Open the idle 1/4 to 1/2 turn. (clockwise) It may sound like it's idling too fast, but remember the tiny engine has WAAAAAY more RPMs than most other engines. You want the idle pretty high, just before it makes the clutch engage.
Also, read the post right above your original and check the other 2 needle settings. I have a Volcano SV as well, and those are where my needles are at. My truck runs like a dream...
You don't want it spitting too much fuel or bogging out at all. Just a bit of blueish smoke should come out of the exhaust stinger when on the throttle hard. If there's no smoke you're too lean. You don't want that...
Here's one of my favorite vidz to help you tune - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As
Also, read the post right above your original and check the other 2 needle settings. I have a Volcano SV as well, and those are where my needles are at. My truck runs like a dream...
You don't want it spitting too much fuel or bogging out at all. Just a bit of blueish smoke should come out of the exhaust stinger when on the throttle hard. If there's no smoke you're too lean. You don't want that...
Here's one of my favorite vidz to help you tune - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As
