Clutchbell swap...
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Clutchbell swap...
How many of you have swapped their stock CB for an HPI hardened steel yet? I have the Volcano SV and just 2 nights ago replaced my clutch spring, clutchbell and spur gear (first in 1 gal. of nitro.) You'll notice in the attached pix that it wasn't even that bad. I just figured I'd replace it while the engine was off so it would mesh nicely with the new CB. I put an MIP spring on there, which works great, and an HPI 18t hardened steel CB. Funny how my stock spring also lasted a whole gallon too. Just lucky I guess...
I CAN'T EVEN BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE!!! Honestly, it's like a whole new beast! I knew changing to taller gearing would make a difference, but HOLY COW! After having to TOTALLY re-adjust my needle settings to work with the new gearing, my truck was pulling wheelies in my yard! No *****! They may not have been flip-over wheelies, but the fronts were definitely off the ground! Surprisingly, it still has a TON of torque, but now the top end is also greatly improved. I took it to the street and noticed a distinct difference!
I CAN'T EVEN BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE!!! Honestly, it's like a whole new beast! I knew changing to taller gearing would make a difference, but HOLY COW! After having to TOTALLY re-adjust my needle settings to work with the new gearing, my truck was pulling wheelies in my yard! No *****! They may not have been flip-over wheelies, but the fronts were definitely off the ground! Surprisingly, it still has a TON of torque, but now the top end is also greatly improved. I took it to the street and noticed a distinct difference!
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
were did u get the spur gears, what are they from?, im thinking about trying the spurs and gear setup out of a traxxas nitro 4 tech 3.3. maybey u could post a link to thoes spurs u got, thanks
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
That's actually the stock RCR spur. As far as I know, without MAJOR modifications, the RCR spur is the only one that will work. It has a unique mounting process, and the smaller aluminum gear next to it comes with the spur, so they're both changed at the same time. Unless you come across a steel spur somewhere, all spurs are made out of the same material (nylon), and will last the same amount of time. It depends mainly on your gear mesh. If it's too loose, your teeth will strip off like crazy. Too tight will cause binding and something will eventually get messed up. With a strip of notebook paper between the CB and spur, slide the engine (clutchbell) against the spur, not too tight, but pretty snug, and tighten down the engine bolts, with locktite of course. Your vehicle should roll smoothly across the table/floor without binding or making clicking noises.
As far as the clutchbell (CB), there are problems with the stock RCRs. They are generally out-of-round, which will prematurely wear the spur unevenly. The other thing is that the RCR CBs are aluminum, as well as the clutch shoes inside the bell. Aluminum against aluminum isn't good. That's why if you go with a HARDENED STEEL CB, you will have a much more reliable vehicle. Make sure when you replace your CB to get the HPI HARDENED STEEL one for the HPI Savage.
There are 3 CBs to choose from - a regular steel one, which is supposedly worse than the stock one, a hardened steel one which is what you want, and a racing one, which is hardened as well, but vented on the end to allow cooling. The racing one is like $15, the hardened one is like $11 and the cheap one is like $6. I would have gotten the racing one if I had to order it, but my LHS had the regular hardened 18t in stock.
Examples:
DON'T get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBTB3&P=7
DO get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKM8&P=7
DO get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLSU0&P=7
As far as the clutchbell (CB), there are problems with the stock RCRs. They are generally out-of-round, which will prematurely wear the spur unevenly. The other thing is that the RCR CBs are aluminum, as well as the clutch shoes inside the bell. Aluminum against aluminum isn't good. That's why if you go with a HARDENED STEEL CB, you will have a much more reliable vehicle. Make sure when you replace your CB to get the HPI HARDENED STEEL one for the HPI Savage.
There are 3 CBs to choose from - a regular steel one, which is supposedly worse than the stock one, a hardened steel one which is what you want, and a racing one, which is hardened as well, but vented on the end to allow cooling. The racing one is like $15, the hardened one is like $11 and the cheap one is like $6. I would have gotten the racing one if I had to order it, but my LHS had the regular hardened 18t in stock.
Examples:
DON'T get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBTB3&P=7
DO get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFKM8&P=7
DO get this one - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLSU0&P=7
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
well im seriously thinking about this setup, http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...id=&part_id=97 i dont see why it wouldent work, what do u think?
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
well im seriously thinking about this setup, http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...id=&part_id=97 i dont see why it wouldent work, what do u think?
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
a himoto cyclone pro and rapida pro, its the same as the hpi setup that people are using so i think it should work, but see its for drag racing so the gearing should be awesome, and it also means that the spurs are prolly made out of tougher material.
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RE: Clutchbell swap...
Keep in mind, a tougher spur doesn't really matter that much. As long as that mesh is perfect, you need not worry. A Redcat spur will last just as long as a Traxxas or HPI...
An aftermarket 2-speed is cool though. Stay away from the RCRs...
An aftermarket 2-speed is cool though. Stay away from the RCRs...