trclm26

what is adeqaute break in time for a new motor?

zack221

i usually do like 6 tanks just to be 100% sure it is broke in but everone does it different

zack221

i let mine idle the first tank and let it cool down and then idle the second tank too and let it cool down then 1/4 throttle on the third tank and 1/2 throttle on the 4th tank and 3/4 throttle on the 5th and then wide open for like 3 sec at a time the 6th tank and then the 7th tank let it rip be sure to let it cool down in between each tank

Tasman_Chas

This was a document that was sent to me. I hope it helps.



Engine Tuning & Tweaking

The following information is used AFTER new engine break-in. We STRONGLY caution you against adjusting the engine prior to starting and running at least 2 to 3 tanks of fuel through the engine at the factory settings. The engine was started at the factory to make CERTAIN it works. So do not question IF it will start, but rather teach YOURSELF to start the car.

OK, the engine settings are very touchy. What works fine one day will cause problems the next day. The fuel itself, air temperature, altitude, humidity can all affect the performance of your engine. If you set your engine using 20% nitro, then ALWAYS use 20% Nitro. If after you start the engine and it warms up and runs ok, then leave the settings alone! Enjoy your day. However, if you are having a little trouble, follow the next few steps.

First, set the idle screw so the carb can NOT close all the way. That keeps the engine from dying when you hit the brakes. The book tells you which way to turn it. It is different on different engines. This is a VISUAL process. You LOOK into the carb when you have GOOD light so you can SEE the carb opening. Set the screw so it will ALWAYS be about (+ -) 1mm open. Do this setting with the car NOT running. Test the results by turning on the car and radio, pull/push throttle, brake, and look in the carb while pulling/pushing throttle trigger. (Also done with car's engine NOT running.) After you have this screw set and it works, leave it alone. IF it is set right, you will never have to adjust it again. The only exception to this is in the rare event the engine vibrations cause it to move. However, that SHOULD be the ONLY reason to have to re-set it.

Start the car according to your starting instructions. (Fill with fuel, prime the fuel line, and add 4-5 drops of fuel to the carb. Attach the glow plug starter and set up so that you can jerk the starter cord without pulling it off the car!) Let it warm up for about 5 minutes. IF you have trouble starting or it will not start at all, reset the needle valve to factory settings. First turn the needle valve (that is the brass screw with a sleeve on it) all the way in, (and count the turns to screw it in, in ¼ turn increments) and then back it out 1 ½ to 1 ¾ turns), that is the factory setting. NOW start the car, that little ¼ turn difference can make the difference between starting and not starting. When in doubt add fuel to the carb, 4-5 drops, and start the engine. With it running at idle and holding the car in one hand, slowly screw in the needle valve. Do you hear the RPM's increase? That is the key to super speed. Careful though if you screw it TOO far in, it will cut off due to not enough fuel. Screw in equal’s less fuel, screw out equal’s more fuel. HOWEVER, you must ALWAYS have smoke coming from the exhaust. No smoke WILL eventually burn up the engine. It will run too hot with a lean fuel/air mix. If you run the engine with too much fuel, at high speeds it will cut off/drown itself out. It is supposed to have smoke and will even have drops of oily looking after burn from the exhaust outlet. That is excess engine lube/oil and it is supposed to do that.

When you have finished running for the day, make sure you burn off ALL the fuel in the line, tank, carb, and engine. Then spray some after run lube in the carb and pull the starter a few times to spread it around the engine insides a bit.

We hope this helps you with any running issues. It takes a little practice to learn how to tweak and when to tweak. Just have the patience to do it. It is a part of the hobby. Have FUN with your car today!

zack221

that just tells how to start it

Kemo

I've never heard of an engine being started from the factory.

Forget what every manual says on how to break in an engine. Forget what manufacturers say about breaking in engines, this method you are about to read is the BEST way to break in an engine. And all it takes is 30 minutes (engine run time).

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397

Tasman_Chas

That is a cool article! Thanks Kemo. I think I posted the wrong document. Sorry about that.

zack221

not being a smart***** kemo but have you broke yours in like that it seems like there rushing it but like i said before everone has different ways

mozzzy_2000

yeah everyone has their own method but the one kemo suggests is the currently the most popular theory of breakin. Although I must admit I think 30 minutes for breakin is possibly a bit too brief. 30 minutes is not a lot of tanks. I've found that most of my engines have taken at least 1litre(8-10tanks) of fuel during the breakin to race tune. That takes at least an hour or longer. I ususally err on the side of caution and some might say 10 tanks is too long but I have never had a longeveity issue with any of my engines under that method of breakin. I guess in essence, with any breakin method take your time and go slow. Never over rev the engine. Don;t be affraid to get some temperature into the engine when you run it in. Thats very important.

nitrospeed33

i think the one kemo showed will work best, my opinion.

mozzzy_2000

agreed although I think 30 minutes, which is only 3-4 tanks is just not long enough for breakin in my opinion. But each to their own I suppose.

nitrospeed33

i say just run an extra tank through the engine while taking it easy before tuning.

ehroof

i remember when it was just idleing 3 tanks very rich then taking it easy for another 3 tanks while leaning it out. LOL

mozzzy_2000

yeah everyone has their own method. I don;t think its been proven that one method is any better than the rest but the heat cycle method seems to be the most recommended method by far.

Rube24

Horray, I just got my new tornado bb today.
Here is my question, I want to start breaking it in and it is only between 15 and 20 Deg. outside today. Is it ok to do it with the temp so low? Or do I just have to run it longer to allow it to get up to the right temp?
Any help will be great.

ehroof

with 15 to 20 degrees you may have to wrap the head with aluminum to get up to temprature. They need about 200 degrees for break in. Do you have a temp gun, it may be advisable to get one, i would be nervous with the temprature.

mattnday

Great adivce - Car fired right up after 4 pulls - smoke was good - It was idleing without learching and i was getting the oily discharge.

All was great until 3/4 of the tank through at idle the flywheel had 2 1/8 sections break off.

I got the car stopped by pinching the fuel line.

Now I am looking at ordering parts before even continuing te break in.

What else should I order as a "starter" for parts?

ehroof

clutch bell and clutch spring from the upgrade sticky above this, how did the flywheel break??

mattnday

Honestly I am not sure. it was idleing great and then the RPM's skyrocketed. It was parked and just running at idle RPM's. It does not appear that there is any other damage. Although being a newbie I am not exactly sure what else I should be looking for.

chubbysuncle

Make sure that when you shut the engine down the pistopn is @ BDC or the furthest point from the glow plug when you allow it to cool. If not you'll have a short lived engine.. Hey Everyone! WASSUP??!! LOL[sm=tongue_smile.gif]

Chubbysdad

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