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  1. #1801

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    i am pretty sure that the springs from the hpi mt work great on it.
    125 characters and 2 lines is not enough to list my RC obsession!!!

  2. #1802

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Also, does anyone know what the stock fork oil weight is. I want to get a thicker oil and fill the shock properly, or would this not help the bottoming out and bouncing around all the time?

  3. #1803

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    thicker oil would help, i dont know what oil is in it but its not that thick. silicone shock oil is best.
    125 characters and 2 lines is not enough to list my RC obsession!!!

  4. #1804

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    I have a BB Pro with aluminum shocks. I put team associated 30 wt. in them but couldn't tell much difference. I would go for a 40 or 50 wt. I think stock is around 30 wt.

  5. #1805

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    I believe the stock oil is partially air and leftover bacon grease

  6. #1806

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread


    ORIGINAL: newdoughboy

    I believe the stock oil is partially air and leftover bacon grease
    LMFAO!!

  7. #1807
    Macanan's Avatar
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    I use 40 wt in my shocks and they seem to hold strong.
    OFFICIAL HIMOTO RACING SUPPORT - THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN
    http://himotoracing.com :: http://himotoracingusa.com

  8. #1808

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    ORIGINAL: newdoughboy

    I believe the stock oil is partially air and leftover bacon grease

    LOL, that is what it looks like. The only reason I am worrying with it is because at the rate I am going I will eat through the a-arm stops, esp on the rear, in no time. That and the nose is and tail are definitely suffering.

    I mean how often should the base plate have to be replaced because of things like scrape damage eating things away? I always was under the impression that it wasn't that often but at the rate I am going will have to replace it around the time that I finish off the gallon of fuel.

  9. #1809

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    lol, no the chassis will take a beating no matter what you do, put some real thick stuff in it, like 10wt, 10 being the highest (it depends on the copany) some will say 10,000, some are 100,000 i think, like associated
    125 characters and 2 lines is not enough to list my RC obsession!!!

  10. #1810
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    hi guys...my new tornado bb has arrivedand i was just wondering:
    1)should i use threadlock?
    2)if i don't change the clutch bell what will be the result?
    3)i don't have a redcat racing suplier near me, as it is knows the break in procces is brutal toward the glow plug, so i was wondering how hot the glow plug on the tornado is?
    thanks!!!!
    i\'\'m gonna live forever, or die trying...

  11. #1811

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread


    ORIGINAL: rc rock

    hi guys...my new tornado bb has arrivedand i was just wondering:
    1)should i use threadlock?
    2)if i don't change the clutch bell what will be the result?
    3)i don't have a redcat racing suplier near me, as it is knows the break in procces is brutal toward the glow plug, so i was wondering how hot the glow plug on the tornado is?
    thanks!!!!

    1. yes, blue not red and on metal to metal screws
    2. clutch bell should be steel now so you should be ok
    3. clermontmotorsports.com is a great dealer for redcat and other rc's and he has the os a3 plug, its a great plug
    125 characters and 2 lines is not enough to list my RC obsession!!!

  12. #1812
    rc rock's Avatar
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    thanks ehroof...
    btw has anyone tried leaving the steel clutch bell on? if so how did it work?
    does anyone know of any on road weels, tires, inserts from hpi or g4s that will fit the buggy?
    i\'\'m gonna live forever, or die trying...

  13. #1813

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Just need to vent some frustration. I wrecked my BB Pro a few weeks ago and it took redcat 16 days to get my order to me. Just to find out that the upper arm fixer is out of stock. Funny how it was in stock when I ordered. They gladly took my money. I provided them my email and phone, but it seems there to busy to drop me a line. So now it will be even longer to fix. If I knew that, I could have bought it somewhere else. Very poor service in my opinion. Also they sent my parts in a UPS bubble mailer and woudn't you know the bag was ripped and taped back together and my front wheels were gone. I asked them why they used it and they said they are limited on boxes. What a joke, be in business or don't, ship me my stuff properly. The tech guy said he would have to talk to manager about wheels missing. Hes not even authorized to make a $4.99 decision. Even though UPS insures their pkgs. UGH!!. Almost 24 hrs. later no update. I hate calling and trying to make business's do what they know they should. I expected an I'm sorry about that we'll get an order out today, not some lame excuses. Theres nothing worse than standing on the side lines while your friends play with thier rc's. Good luck finding wheels for the tornado BB pro they seem to be out of stock at a lot of diffferent places. It would be nice if proline or another aftermarket co. would make some wheels for redcat. Anyway heres a tip, put a small piece of fuel tubing on they brake trigger, It makes your finger nice and tight and it will keep it from slipping out and hitting a wall like me.[:@]

  14. #1814
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    my friends new shockwave ha been acting up lately.

    -the engine starts up in reverse
    -the engine is tuned perfectly and it still fails to start.
    -it takes like, 30 minutes for the tank to run out of fuel while idling (that might be normal but i'm just making sure.)
    how can we fix these things?

    my shock wave's engine started up backwards once before. what causes this?
    oops, you broke it...

  15. #1815

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    tklemin i dealing with the samething seems like they don't care. i was told the samething you were told but i haven't heard from anyone yet almost two days since they promised me a email. i ordered wheels too. i also looked at the proline 2.2's i think they will fit but i would like to get the ones i payed for first if i ever get to talk to some one at redcat racing maybe someone will do there job at that place are they wont be around that long because i dont see people going thru this i am aready fed up with it

  16. #1816

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    I don't think prolines will fit tornado. tornado has 12mm hex and prolines are 17mm or bigger. some of the road cars have 12mm hex but then your stuck trying to make tires fit. Give rufaster.com a email for what you need. Scroll down to bottom of page and use parts request form or email. He has more parts than listed on site. He called me back within a few hrs. and had chrome front wheels and tires for better price. He was close to me so shipping should only take a day or two. I'll let you know how it goes. Also I've ordered from exportpro.biz based in FL. they got me a part in about 4-5 days. You just have to figure out which himoto car is like your redcat.

  17. #1817
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    I have ordered me a set of 4 pro line MOAB 2.2” tire for 1:10 it's going on my now Tsunami.
    Aggressive / realistic tread design
    Β· A whopping 5” x 2.25”
    Β· Comes with foam inserts
    Β· Designed to work on a variety of terrains

    And the rims are 2.2 Mudrock ch beadlock chrome rims 12mm hex
    2.2 Mudrock beadlock wheels comes in dual side beadlock setup to ensure it is absolutely the best wheel available.
    Beadlock wheels lock directly onto the tire eliminating the need for gluing your tires and keeping the rims reusable.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    OFFICIAL HIMOTO RACING SUPPORT - THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN
    http://himotoracing.com :: http://himotoracingusa.com

  18. #1818

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Shenzhen International Model Exhibition



    2008 Shenzhen International Model Exhibition



    Welcome to
    Shenzhen International Convention & Exhibition Center

    Date: May.1st---3rd, 2008



    Description:
    This is an annual model expo broght
    by us--- Guangzhou Huiyi Exhibition Co., Ltd. We’re a specialized expo holder in China. We’d already held 2007 International Model Expo in Shenzhen on Nov.1stβ€”3rd,2007. It is proved to be a great success, and we decided to go on with 2008 Shenzhen International Model Exhibition. And in the Olympic year of China, we wish you a prosperous business.
    Shenzhen
    As the special economic zone in Southern China, Shenzhen has taken a full use of its unique geographical position. It is the ligament and the focus of Chuchiang Delta, which is renowned as the the Industrial zone of China. You can find easy access to Hong Kong in Shenzhen.
    INVITATION

    Approved by:
    Department of Foreign Trade & Economic Cooperation of Guangdong Province
    Shenzhen Bureau of Trade & Industry
    Supported by:
    5IRC 5IMX RCFANS
    Yin Yan Model Tech. LTD.
    China Hobby
    RC Models Monthly
    Radio Control World
    Radio Control Technology
    Hosted by:
    Administration of Sport of Shenzhen Municipal
    Guangdong Provincial Association for Science & Technology
    Shenzhen Municipal Association for Aviation Navigation Vehicle Model
    Dortmund Exhibition Group of Germany
    Guangzhou Huiyi Exhibition Co. Ltd
    Guangzhou Huiyi Exhibition Corporation. LTD
    Address: Jianzhong Road 7th, Tianhe Technology Circle Guangzhou
    Http://www.szmodelexpo.cn
    Tel:86-( 0)20-85555358 85551758 Fax:86-( 0)20-85555358
    E-mail: szmexpo@126.com
    Contact: Alex Yang
    Mobile: 86-159 8909 7078

  19. #1819
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    [:@]DUDE where in AMERICA not china , why post something thats going on in china and taking over the forums like that. If you need to get something to the owners of redcat they do have a website to get ahold of them try that.
    http://www.redcatracing.com/
    OFFICIAL HIMOTO RACING SUPPORT - THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN
    http://himotoracing.com :: http://himotoracingusa.com

  20. #1820

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    cool they look good. you might want to gear down for those.

  21. #1821
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Yeah im looking into getting the single speed with 13 tooth clutch, Iv spent so much money on this in the past month its unreal.
    Holly smokes batman I just check out how much I have spent on this buggy alone since I got it, with upgrades and all I have spent a tottle of $640.37 and thats on a 1/10 scale buggy. not counting the $60.00 in fuel.
    OFFICIAL HIMOTO RACING SUPPORT - THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN
    http://himotoracing.com :: http://himotoracingusa.com

  22. #1822

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Oh yeah! I hadn't had it a week and put it in the wall so hard I blew the screws out the bottom of front diff housing and tweaked it kind of like a parallelogram. wheels,A-arm pins, upper/lower fixer, e-clips, shims. But the aluminum upgrades, ball joints, and dogbones stood tall luckily. Just waiting for front wheels to show up. rc's arent cheap, but at least the parts aren't to bad only around $30 in damage. Servo saver was good idea or I'd be out more.

  23. #1823

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread


    Heres some info I've been collecting about tornado. All of it stolen from other posts. Thanks to all for providing great info. Sorry I dont know names to give credit. If you find something incorrect please PM me and I'll change it. Any tips/interchange parts is appreciated. All pictures located at bottom, sorry I'm still learning how to post pics correctly.

    A piece of fuel tubing works as a antenna cap

    Fuel tubing on the brake of TX will tighten up around finger for better control.

    Hpi A885 racing clutch shoes will work.

    Dont get a new stock bumper. He can use a RPM bumper for a traxxas stampede. Its about 6" wide and will protect way better than stock.

    Also cut the holes in the body for engine air flow.

    A Sullivan tiger drive 90 degree roto starter will solve rear (axial) type roto start suspension clearance problems.

    Before you take your engine off the chasis for the first time, turn the car upside down and take a PERMANENT marker and draw circles around ALL four of the screws that are holding the engine in to the chasis. SO, when you put the engine back on, all you have to do is line the four screws back up inside the circles and you wont have to worry whether the engine is in its correct factory position or not.

    Symptoms of a broken spring are very obvious. If the vehicle can be started while suspended but not while the tires are on the ground,or if the vehicle wont stand still while at idle and the engine dies when brakes are applied its probably the clutch spring. Also,with the engine off,if the clutch bell spins with resistance and a metal on metal noise can be herd from inside the clutch bell,the spring has come loose. *Note* Having the idle on the engine set to high can also cause the clutch to engage. And having the idle set to low can also cause the engine to die when brakes are applied as it will close the air intake of the carburator to much,thus stalling the engine.

    Replace broken clutch spring.

    Ok lets get started. First you'll need to remove the four screws holding the engine to the chassis (pic 1),you'll also need to loosen the grub screw in the tip of the exhaust pipe (2.0mm) which secures the exhaust pipe to the chassis. With the engine out of the vehicle you'll need to remove the clutch bell (2.5mm) (pic 2). Pull the clutch bell off taking care not to lose any of the washers under the screw and the washer behind the clutch bell (and be sure you put them on exactly how they came off!). If you have a replacement clutch spring or if you've managed to reuse the old one this is the trickiest part,have the ends connected together and ready to go. I recommend using both thumbs for this but I needed a free hand to take the picture. Grasping the engine in your hands,slip the spring over the tip of the crank shaft and use your thumbs to roll the spring on and around the clutch shoes working from one point outwards,evenly in an upward motion as show in pic 3. Do it slowly and with caution as you dont want to overstretch the spring,it may take a couple of tries as these things require alot of force and can slip out from under your fingers.

    If everything went well and the spring is secured in its little groove on the clutch shoes then your ready for assembly,pretty much in the same manor you took it all apart! For the last part once the engine is back together the gear mesh will need to be reset. One way this can be done,is to take a piece of notebook paper and run it between the clutch bell/gears and then snugging the engine/clutchbell up against the spur gears and bolting it down and removing the paper (blue locktite is recommended on engine screws as nitro vehicles have ALOT of vibration). If the gears are to close they will spin with resistance with a clickity feel,and if set to far apart the power from a nitro engine can easily chew the teeth right off a spur gear. Pic 4 shows how my gear mesh is set after assembly. Notice how there is a space between the teeth of the clutchbell and spur gears but the teeth still have a good amount of contact surface and still spin freely.

    Well thats its,not a whole lot to it but stretching the spring over the shoes is the hardest part. The clutch shoes can also be removed if you've purchased the "clutch slice" assembly if you dont want to fuss with springs or if you wish to replace/upgrade. The large E-clip is the only thing securing the shoes to the flywheel and can be removed by using a narrow flathead screw driver. Stick the screw driver in between the E-clip and crank shaft and slowly turn the screwdriver,this will force the E-clip out but becarful cause these things can go flying off pretty easy!
    Tuning trick
    As for tuning idle mixture i read great trick on how to do this. Make ur engine run at idle then pinch fuel cable (engine will stall), but before it stalls it should rise rpm a bit. If it doesnt rise at all - u run too lean. If it raises hundreds of rpm - u run too rich.

    Changed to OS A3 (one of the hottest) and tuned properly in 10 minutes

    Tranny shift adjustment
    Clockwise makes it shift at higher rpms so it stays in 1st gear longer, if its stuck in 2nd you want to turn it clockwise The gears in the 2 speed transmission use centrifical force to shift. So once you get going fast enough they'll automatically shift into second. When you slow back down first will automatically kick back in. You'll know that it shifted because you'll hear the engines rpms drop just like in a real car. You can also adjust for the shift point, incase you want second to engage earlier or later.

    The first picture is how the whole deal works. Baisically when you're running your car eventually you'll go fast enough to where the little arm swings up and then the tab on the second gear hits it and it becomes engaged. When you slow down the arm folds back down and the tab is no longer caught on it and then you'll be back in first gear.


    Break in process

    If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

    From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
    You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan
    BDC means Bottom Dead Center. This is when you roll the crank until the piston is at the very bottom of the crank case. Before you install your new engine look at the piston through the exhaust and when the piston is at the bottom put a mark on the flywheel. This will make it easy to set the piston to BDC.

    Failsafe Redcat/Himoto
    The Fuzzy Logic CPU operates on 3.8 to 6.0 volts DC from your receiver battery pack.
    Warning- If receiver is dead or removed or car battery is switched off, THE FAIL SAFE UNIT WILL NOT FUNCTION, nor provide any RC control protection. **
    Installation:
    1) Connect the unit between your receiver and throttle servo. But before applying power double-check wiring color code to ensure correct polarity.
    2) Locate unit in battery box or holder. It is best to keep dirt or water away from unit. Also, secure unit so it is not loose or allowed to wiggle freely on the lead wires.
    3) To setup the unit, turn on the radio transmitter and car receiver. You should see the throttle and steering servo's operate normally. Also, the fail safe β€œred” light will be flashing quickly. If solid red, you may have radio problem or not turned ON.
    4) With radio transmitter on, push throttle trigger to full brake and hold, not full throttle. Then, with a pin, push the Set Position button on the fail safe unit. You should feel a one click and a flashing red light indication. For a few seconds, the red led will flash quickly then pause, this pause indicates the fail safe is set to your brake trigger position.
    The unit is now set. To check, turn off radio transmitter. Note the throttle servo will immediately move to the brake position set, in this case FULL. Also, the red light will be on. Solid Red means dangerous operation; flashing red means safe operation. With solid indication (Solid red), stop operation until interference or battery recharge is done.

    Center diff
    Redcat Trans 101. two speed Tornado transmission rebuild.
    First remove the upper chassis plate.
    Then remove the engine. It makes everything much easier to reinstall. You should see this.
    Now remove the thumbscrew from the brake linkage and leave the arm attached to the trans. Now remove the 4 screws holding the trans to the chassis.
    Now just lift out the trans and don't loose the dogbones. The longer one goes to the front, shorter to the rear.
    Once it's out clean it off good. Then looking at the front of the trans ( opposite the brake) remove the grub screw holding the front drivecup on. Then remove the 2 screws holding the 2 body halves together.
    Now you can remove the front half and remove the larger(1st) gear and One way bearing. The One Way Bearing (OWB) should be snug/tight in the larger gear. You'll need to reuse it if you're just replacing gears. Clean it good and NO oil. It needs to be installed properly for the trans to work.
    You can see in the pic that the rounded end faces the flat side of the gear. The OWB p/n is 02067.
    Now remove the drivecup on the brakeside of the trans.
    Then slide the shaft out that has the 2 way drive clutch and smaller 2nd gear on it yet. Loosen the grub screw in the center of the 2 way drive clutch and slide it off the shaft. Then you can slide 2nd gear off.
    The bearings in the trans are P/N 02139. They are the same ones used in the clutchbell and the outer wheel bearings. Now about the 2 way drive clutch that won't shift. If you remove the adjusting grub screw all the way you should find these pieces.
    Don't lose any pieces. Clean the clutch body out and see if the clutch tab swings out freely like this.
    It should swing in and out of the body freely, if not clean it more and oil it, whatever, to get it so it does. Once you get it working well put the ball and spring back in, put some Blue locktite on the grub screw and just tighten it in just below flush (about 5-6 turns on mine). If you're replaceing 2nd gear press out the old bearing and put it in the new gear ( or replace it) and push the tiny steel pin in the new gear too. Now slide the new gear on the shaft with the tab facing out. Slide your super clean 2 way drive clutch back on with the raised center side facing out. Smooth side toward gear. Tighten the center grub screw making sure it goes on the flat spot on the shaft. The gear should spin free in BOTH directions. Here I've opened the tab to show how it should engage when it works right.
    Reverse the order to reassemble. Slide the shaft with the 2nd gear and clutch into the brakeside and reinstall the brake drivecup. Use Blue Locktite on the Grub screw and be sure it's on the flat of the shaft!
    Slide the new 1st gear on with the OWB properly installed. Raised hub side out. slide the other half back on and reinstall the screws.Don't overtighten the 2 long screws holding the halves together. It's only plastic. Install the front drivecup. Leave a 1-2mm gap between the housing and the cup. Use locktite and make sure it's on the flat. The trans may be snug and not free spinning at this point, but at least it's back together. Put the trans back on the chassis. Get the mounts in place and try to spin it now. It should spin free now. Also the drivecups should spin when you spin the larger 1st gear upwards away from the chassis.

    gear mesh video how to.
    http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/updates.php?partNo=858
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  24. #1824

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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    Anyone in N. Kentucky know of any tracks in the area. RC shops and tracks seem like ghost towns.

  25. #1825
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    RE: Redcat Racing Tornado Thread

    ORIGINAL: tklemin

    Anyone in N. Kentucky know of any tracks in the area. RC shops and tracks seem like ghost towns.
    LOL I know the feeling thats how it is here in Tennessee, there's about 20 or 30 guys here around the KY, TN, and VA border, Iv been in contact with one of them and where trying to set something up for everyone once a month to meet at a track that about 70 miles from here, thats the closest track.
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