ehroof

where do they fit though, diff to wheel or trans to front or rear diff?

Syclone354

These are the shafts that go from the transmission to the rear diff. These are the only ones ive actually broken, ive lost one or two of the 08029 83mm axles that go from the diff to the wheel, but havent broken any of those (yet!). They are also the shortest in the car.

diff to wheel = 83mm (redcat 08029)
trans to rear diff = 57mm (redcat lists them as 55 but hpi lists them as 57, either way they work)
trans to front diff = 70mm (redcat 06006)

Syclone354

Question - does anyone have a part number for the Rear body mount posts? the fronts are easy to find, and the volcano uses 4 of the fronts to mount its body, but i cant find anything for the extra long rear mounts, and we have busted 2 of them [:@]

ehroof

these are the mounts you need: http://www.clermontmotorsports.com/s...-of-car/Detail i know it says fronts but they worked on my tsunami

godsassass1n

Hey guys, I'm brand new to the RC hobby and the Tsunami is my first RC. I liked the other pics I saw so I thought I would post a pic of my own.

godsassass1n

oops sorry the pic is so big hehe

ehroof

nice picture

AllAboutFunHobbies

That's a super nice action shot man.

j_blaze

Has anyone seen the Tsunami Ultrawide yet? Where can I get those arms to convert mine? I have been running 1/8 scale at the track only but after seeing a couple crt.5 out there last week I think I'm gonna break out the old nami. I just have to get an engine for it, the .15 from my smartech is here in pieces but I have no pull starter for it, Ill try to get in on my starter box and see if that works. I'm looking for the plastic arms cause I know they last, I never broke one on my original, and the aluminums will probably be $30-$40 for the pair.

godsassass1n

can anyone tell me if the SH.18 engine is better than the VX.18 and if its worth it for an upgrade or another engine that would be a good upgrade?

thanks

ehroof

i have heard alot of good things about the sh .18, its definately better than the vx, i run os .18 cvrx's when it comes time to replace my engines though, i think i will try the sh out on my next try and see how it is.

rclynx

I'm in the process of hooking up a XTM aka SH engine on a Tsunami..........probably a couple of weeks because its been busy around here (thank goodness) but I'll give you the set up when I have it..........Oh and the engine drops right in, its the exhaust I need to figure out

Syclone354

Well, I got the 13/18 clutchbell installed. Sick! runs sooo much better than before. I can smoke the other tsunamis we have from a stop now no problem, and it makes jumping and climbing hills soooo much easier. I will type up a thread with detailed install info, part numbers, and pics for future reference because that should come stock.

Anyways...

Also got my aluminum pipe and installed it this weekend. Its the one offered from redcat. I did the clutchbell first, tuned it and ran it stock exhaust. HUGE difference. Then, i went back and put the pipe on. Had to do a good bit of retuning, but it was WORTH IT! The pipe made a suprising difference. Incase anyone asks, that is regular old auto heater hose holding it in place.






Then, it rained but we went out afterwards to a local park and thrashed the baseball field pretty good






Had to spend about 20 minutes cleaning it after I got home last night. Good times with the Tsunami!

ehroof

nice, that 13/18 bell makes a big difference, did you use the needle bearing or regular bearings, also did you cut down a tension pin on the screw or did you use something else.

Syclone354

actually I used 2 5x8 bearings (bought a set of 10 from tower) and used 2 of the 5x8 hpi bushings you had linked to in the other thread. didnt need any spacer, used the stock screw and washers. works great. i have enough bearings and spacers to do the rest of our tsunamis. right now the clutch bell can slide off the bearings if you take the motor off, but once installed it obviously cant move. I am going to make my own bushing that is the thickness of the two bushing installed now, but that will press inside the clutch bell so it will never be able to move

yamaha1166

My brother has a tsunami. Its ran fine the past couple of days. We let it sit for about 2 days without driving. We drove it 1/4 a tank today and it sounded ok. and decided to tune it. I let it cool off and tried starting it again to tune it, And it won't start. Its making a real deep throaty sound when i try starting it. Not at all like normal. I can get it stay running 4-5 seconds max. We have no idea what happened, the only thing i did while it was cooling off was tighten the brakes and tighten the rubber pipe that hooks the pipe and exuast header together. Thats all i did inbetween runs. This is our first car so i have no idea what the deal is. Please help

thanks

godsassass1n

I myself actually have the same problem. a friend had mentioned that maybe i needed a fuel filter but i added one on flushed the engine and changed the tubing, but no change. but if i get the engine running long enough to get hot i notice that there is fuel bubbling out from the end of the carburetor post. is that leak causing a vacuum leak or something to make the engine stall all the time? ive taken that pin out and its not damaged or anything so would it be a bad seal? if so what do i need to replace?

yamaha1166

I think a little bit of fuel bubbling might be normal cause my friends car runs fine and his does that occasionaly, but i really dont know. If anyone has any suggestion please help

ehroof

sounds like your needles are messed up, like your running to lean, set the high needle 2 1/2 out and the low needle flush with the collar and try, also make sure your glow plug is good.

godsassass1n

yeah thats what i have the needle valves set at and the glow plug is brand new. i have a med. plug and i'm running blue thunder fuel.
everything really looks good on it ive taken the carb out and did notice that the pin had bitten into the stem dunno if thats bad or not, but i dunno it just doesn't want to run no matter how i set my needles

ehroof

does it start when you prime the carb, try putting a few drops of fuel in the carb and see what happens, if it starts and then stalls its a fuel delivery problem.

godsassass1n

i messed around with it and i can get it to run. it will idle forever if i don't touch it but when i start to drive it around it will stall. i guess ill have to keep messing around with the high needle valve. when i first got the rc it ran really good and was set at 2 turns out, then it started to run like crap so i set the HNV at 2 1/2 and it ran ok but it still stalls while running. i dunno im gonna keep turning the valve in and out until i find something that will work.

ehroof

sounds like your running too rich, try leaning the needles a little, get it to where it runs again then turn the hsn and lsn a 1/4 turn clockwise

godsassass1n

thanks for the info im gonna try leaning it out and see what i can do. it sucks that the only local hobby store closed down so i dont have anywhere to take it to have it looked at really and with being my very first nitro car its obvious that im a total noob. but ill mess around with them and let you know how the results turn out,

thanks again

BackYardRacer

Im posting for yamaha.....I put a new plug and retuned to motor on our tsunami. Its still doing the same thing. It still sounds a little funny and when i started it, it was pretty weird. It would start up when i pulled the pull starter all the way. If i held the pull starter all the way out after i started it , it would stay running. If i let go of the starter like you would normaly do right after it starts, it will shut off. Im deffinetly not going to try to keep it running like that, holding the pull start. I have everything tuned the way you said. I just dont know how this happened inbetween runs. It ran ok and sounded fine the first time i drove it. Second time it screwed up. Not cool at all. Please any other suggestions would help. I'll try it again tomarrow

thanks