uhoo_01

got my bb nami out last night for a bash . its been a few weeks because i fried the reciver and crystal when i changed the on /switch on it and didnt think and cooked every thing lol oh well sh1t happens , but its back together now with a mad lil heavey duty on/off switch i got from ebay with a built in chager jack in the switch its really sweet .anyways after haveing a bash for a few tanks in my court i relized that the car handles like **** lol i need to set the shocks up way better and im thinking about changing the shocks too. p1ssing off the piggy back 1/10 shocks and buying sum bb 7.7 cen mt shocks with the long stroke and making them fit . should look tuff as nails because thos shocks are massive lol .

KeithjV

cant wait to see it uhoo

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone know if the Tsunami is cassified officially ( if there is an " officially" ) as a truggy or stadium truck? For that matter, does anyone know what exactly seperates a truggy from a stadium truck? I've noticed there's not much difference between either, they have almost identical bodies, and setup.

uhoo_01

st is a 1/10 2wd or 4wd and a truggy is a 1/8 buggy based class with wider arms and diff body

bird-0f-prey

Its a Truggy ...why ...no idea!

retrosoul

whats up every 1? im working on a new project im putting a trx 3.3 in my rc10gt so far the 3.3 dropped right in just had to turn my mounts around got the linkage working going from rotary to slide is a pain in the booty but i got it. im stuck on how to get the exhaust hooked up and a clutch setup the pilot shaft is the correct lenght but the diameter is bigger then the os cv15 by .015 or 1/64th i could bring the crankshaft to work and turn it down on a lathe but thats risky. or try to find a clutch bell that will fit and work with y spur gear. if any 1 has some ideas would be great and thank in advance

el_tonto

Is the RC10GT spur 32P or Mod1.0?

If it's 32P, use the Nitro Rustler / Jato clutch bells. If it's Module 1.0, use the Revo clutch bell. And obviously the Traxxas bearings to suit. Jump on the traxxas website and download the manuals for the TRX3.3 and/or the Revo/Jato manuals to find part numbers.

retrosoul

im pretty the rc10gt uses a 32 pitch i read that i can use a traxxas clutch bell im gonna go with a 20T bell and a 64T spur

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Alright, I got the nami out for a little bit this weekend. I stripped out first gear, but I think it was my fault, I changed out a dogbone, and I don't think I got the trans back in the way it should have been, but that's no big deal. But I have noticed that something is up with the tuning or something. It makes a slight hesitation when I go from 0-WOT also when it hits full throttle it seems to be a little slugish, doesn't like it. I've gone back to factory settings, and re-tuned but I can't seem to get it. I switched from traxxas top fuel to o'donnel. It has been running great for the last few weeks, but now it doesn't want to cooperate. If anyone has any suggestions i'm all ears.

uhoo_01

hear the go guys just mounted the CEN 7.7 shocks lol . i still want to tiddy it up a lil the way the mounting plates are plus make the front arms hang lower to match the back travel but there it is what ya think . have not driven it yet :P

tsan

Holy crap. That is very impressive! What's original on that still? Just the frame? Have you posted a breakdown of everything you've done to this rig yet? I can't wait to hear how this performs.

-Tim

el_tonto

There's not a lot of exposed shock shaft on those shocks - are you sure there aren't travel limiters installed inside the shock body? If so, removing those would be the easy way to increase the extension on the front

tsan

I like those tires and wheels... what make are those?

uhoo_01

the nami does not have much travel anyways and the arms bottom out both ways befor the shocks do , iv cheacked.

uhoo_01

and the wheels a 2.2 " but have a real lot of offset to clear every thing i dunno what brand they are. the tyres are hpi racing geo-landers .

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Can anyone suggest a good way to clean out any residue that may have built up inside my engine and carb?

KeithjV

You can spray it down with some carb cleaner. Just make sure you flush out whatever debris there might be before you run it again.

retrosoul

brett i use wd-40 and nitro force by dynamite to clean out my motors. on the tuning i had the same problem with my nami i changed the glowplug re torqued the head screws and cleaned out the exhaust sometimes it loads up with oil and chokes the carb. another thing that might be messing with your tuning could be the o-rings on the tuning needles check those. and your outside temps have they changed since the last time you bashed? and is it below 35? nitro fuel pull moisture out of the air and the water will freeze or jell up a good way to check for freezing or jelling nitro. hold up your fuel pump bottle to the sun or light and look for little floaty like things. looks like oil when you put water in it.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks retro. I did change glow plugs, but I didn't think to check the o-rings on the needles. I'll definetly do that. It has been pretty cold here lately. It's gotten down into the lower 20's. I"m sure that isn't helping anything. I figure most of the problems I'm having is due to the traxxas fuel, it's is really oily and has left all kinds of residue all over my truck. I looked up in the exhaust and it's like totally black with oil all in it, so I assume the carb and probably the inside of the engine is probably the same way. Hopefully after I get it all cleaned up and check the o-rings ( I'll just go ahead and change them out regardless what they look like ) it'll be back running strong. This is the first time I"ve had any problem with the engine or tuning since I originally tuned it after breakin, all I've ever had to do is richen the hsn a little bit for the cold and it's been running great till this past weekend. I'm sure it's long over due for a good clean out.

retrosoul

brett when changing fuel brands and nitro content you need to do a 2nd break in with the new fuel. im pretty sure its your outside temps thats causing you tuning problems. your motor might be cooling down too fast with the cold air rushing in try wraping some tin foil around the cooling head make sure your fuels oil content is no less then 16% the vertex and most motors are designed to run on no less then 16% oil content traxxas uses like 18 or 19%. i think its alot. i run morgans fuel backyard basher and i like it plus its only 30 bucks compared to top fuel 45 bucks gal. morgans fuel also makes sidewinder.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

I did swap brands, but not nitro content. I'm still using 20%. It's a little too late to do another breakin. I've already run over a quart through it, but it was running great for many tanks, then I put it up for about a week while I was waiting on parts then got it back out and for the first tank it was running fine, then during the second tank it started giving me problems. But I'm gonna clean it out and check the o-rings like you advised and see how that does. I'm sure it's something simple. It's not giving me any problems starting or idling. It runs prety good over all, actually if I didn't know this truck like I do then I probably wouldn't even notice that something wasn't right. It's just a little bit of hesitation between 0-half throttle, then a little bit at WOT. Other than that it still pulls well through the RPMs.

p.s... I swapped to O'donnel racing fuel ( not the RTR ). It doesn't tell me on the bottle what the lubricant content is, but the guys at my lhs said it was just fine.

retrosoul

the lhs guys will always tell you it will be just fine lol $$$$

KeithjV

OD's is something 18% if I remember correctly. I found it online somewhere. I found OD to be very oily too and left a nasty residue on everything. Ive been using trinity monster horsepower for a while now and it seems to be working well. It takes a little trial and error based on where you are and which engine you have. Some engines run better on certain brands then on others.
Brett you might want to check your glow plug too. If you have a decent amount of fuel through it then it might be time for a new one.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, the glow plug was one of the first things I changed. I'm pretty sure it's just alot of built up residue. I've never given it a good cleaning since I've had it, I'm sure it's way over due. But I have another question, I've been using O.S #8 plugs I know they're a medium hot plug. They've been working really well, but what about the LC3's I know they're a ultra hot plug so would they be alright to run in the cold? or would I be looking at doing some damage? With the higer lubricant content in fuels I would figure they might be alright to run in extreme cold.

KeithjV

Im not positive on the plugs. I know they say the smaller engines like a hotter plug but the ultra hot might be too hot. Eminent should have some input on the plugs since hes up north.